A memoir of Felix Neff, pastor of the High Alps ; and of his labours among the French Protestants of Dauphiné, a remnant of the primitive Christians of Gaul

c-h

MEMOIR

OF

FELIX NEFF.

LONDON:
GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS,
ST. JOHN'S SQ'JAEE.

MEMOIR

OF

FELIX NEFF,

PASTOR OF THE HIGH ILPS;

AND OF

HIS LABOURS AMONG THE FRENCH PROTESTANTS
OF DAUPHINE,

A REMNANT OF THE PRIMITIVE CHRISTIANS OF GAUL.

WILLIAM STEPHEN GILLY, M.A.

PREBENDARY OF DURHAM, AKD VICAR OF NORHAM.

" There are very few habitations in Dormilleuse which are not liable to be swept away,
for there i» not a tpot, in tliis narrow corner of the Valley of Frcssinit-re, which can be
coniiidered abitolulely safe But terrible as tlie situation of the natives is, they owe to it
their reli|;iu>jR, and perhaps their physical existence. If their country had been more
iecure, and more accessible, tliey would have been exterminated, like the inhabitants
of Val Louise." — Savr'* Joi'rnal.

LONDON:
PRINTED FOR J. G. & F. RIVINGTON,

SI. I-Af t.'H CIIUKCII VAKD,
AMI WATKKl.OO I'LACE, I'ALL MAM..

1 H32.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

Introduction • • 1

CHAPTER I.

Neff's Birth and Education — His first Tastes and Occupa-
tion— His military Career — Leaves the Army and be-
comes a Probationer for Holy Orders — Exercises the
Functions of a Probationer in the Swiss Cantons 41

CHAPTER H.

Neff goes to France to officiate at Grenoble and Mens —
His Observations on National Churches — The Nature of
his Charge at Mens — His laborious Duties — Remarks on
the Effects produced by Sacred Music — Neff's Method
•with his Catechumens 49

CHAPTER III.

Neff's difficulties as to Ordination — His reasons for not
being ordained by the Genevan Clergy — Goes to Eng-
land for his diploma — His return to France and rect-p-
tion at Mens — His nomination as Pastor of the High
Alps — His first visits to the mountain hanikHs of his
parish 80

VI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV.

PAGE

Description of the department of the High Alps — Restitu-
tion of Protestant rights — Organization of Reformed
Churches of France — Nature and extent of Neff"s pas-
toral charge — Henry Oberlin — Description of the Valleys
of Fressiniere and Queyras, and of NefF's parish — The
pass of the Guil — Xeff at Arvieux, and in his presbytery
at La Chalp — His progress through his parish — San
Veran — Pierre Grosse — Fousillarde — The Pastor's mani-
fold duties — Neff"s winter journey to Val Fressiniere —
Palons — Tlic Rimasse — Dormilleuse — Xeff's description
of Dormilleuse, and of the condition in which he found
the remains of the primitive Christians there — His peri-
lous labours there » 103

CHAPTER V.

NefF organizes Reunions, or Prayer-meetings — His opinion
of the necessity of such meetings — Netf 's last exhorta-
tion to his flock on the subject — His exhortations ex-
amined— An inquiry into the effects and utility of Prayer-
meetings — The sentiments of Thomas Scott not in favour
of them — Those of Bishop Heber the same — Observations
on Family Worship ■ 142

CHAPTER VI.

NefF at Champsaur — His difficulties there — From Champ-
saur to Val Fressiniere — His Employments from break
of day to midnight — His account of the Consecration of
the new Church of Violins — His discussion with a
Vaudois Pastor — Wretched condition of the Natives of
Val Fressiniere — An affecting Incident — Neff" institutes

CONTENTS. VU

associations of the Bible and Missionary Societies among
his Alpines — Passage of the Col d'Orsiere — Progress of
his Catechumens at Champsaur — Laments over the levity
of some of his Flock — Prevents the appointment of an
unworthy Pastor at Champsaur 153

CHAPTER VII.

NefF's method and good understanding with the Roman
Catholics — His interview with a Romish Priest — A
family sketch — The convert of Arvieux — A death-bed
scene — The Mission — Controversies — Anecdote — The
Cure — Palons — The shepherdess Mariette 180

CHAPTER VIII.

NefF's self-denial — Reminiscences in Val Fressiniere and
Val Queyras — The Alpine Pastor's duties and mode of
life — Passion week in Dormilleuse and Val Fressiniere 209

CHAPTER IX.

Keflf's extraordinary influence over his Flock — How ob-
tained— His improvements introduced into the condition
of the Alpines — Their wretched state previously to his
arrival — Proposes to himself the example of Oberlin —
The Aqueduct — The Christian Advocate — Neff a teacher
of Agriculture — Xeff at the Fair of St. Crepin — Obser-
vations *22()

ciiapti:r X.

Neff's caution in the choice of his Catcchists — Neff in his
schools — Works at the building of a school-room in
Dormilleuse — Establishes and conducts a normal school
for the training of catocliists and schoolmasters — The

Vlll CONTENTS.

PAGE

difficulties of this undertaking — The farewell repast —
NefF's remarks on the characters of the young men of
his adult school, and on tlic effects produced by it —
Observations on the state of public instruction in France 246

CHAPTER XI.

NefF's strength faOs — Winter horrors of Dormilleuse —
Neff obliged to return to Switzerland — Parting Scenes —
NefF goes to the baths of Plombieres — His last address
to his Alpine flock — His sufferings and patience — His
last hours — His death at Geneva 281

CHAPTER XII.

Review of Neff's character — Its value as an example —
His practical wisdom and usefulness — His prudence and
caution — His gentleness of spirit — His conciliating
manners — Two remarkable traits — Neff compared with
Bernard Gilpin, George Herbert, Oberlin, and Henry
Martyn — Testimonies to Neff's services 310

Postscript 329

INTRODUCTION

When a volume is sent from the press, containing
memorials of persons and places unknown to the
world, and the author claims the attention not
only of those, who read for amusement principally,
but also of the learned and the reflecting, he must
expect some such questions as these to be asked :
Upon what documents are these statements found-
ed ? From wliat original papers are these memoirs
composed ? How came the author acquainted with
scenes and people, whose history he alleges to be
of moment to society at large, but whose names
are perfectly new to us ? How has he had access
to records, which we did not know to be in exist-
ence ? I hope to answer these enquiries satisfac-
Ic^rily, and to >Ii()\v t]i;it those, who have extended
their raml)h's to some ot* tlie obscurest corners of
civilized Europe, or who have been poring over
tin; most neglected, dull, and wearisome pages of
writers and clironich'rs of (hiys long since, may
ttriiig lad- to li^lit w liidi li;i(l escaped notice, ;ind

B

•i INTRODUCTION.

niav illustrate some of the most important sub-
jects ill history.

it has l)een my good fortmic to have had op-
portunities of examining the treasures of ecclesi-
astical liistorv, in libraries rich in such stores ; and
the more I have read, the more I have felt con-
vinced that the secluded glens of Piemont are not
the only retreats, where the descendants of
PRIMITIVE CHRISTIANS may be found. Under
this term I mean to speak of persons who have
inherited a Christianity, which the Church of
Rome has not transmitted to them, and who, from
father to son, have essentially preserved the mode
of faith, and the form of discij)line, which were
received, when the Gospel was first planted in
their land. I have discovered ample reason to
believe, that there is scarcely a mountain region
in our quarter of the globe, which is poor, and un-
inviting, and difficult of access, where the primi-
tive faith, as it was preached by the earliest
messengers of tlie truth, did not linger for many
ages, after the Romish Hierarchy had established
itself in the richer countries, and in the plains ;
and moreover, that there are still many mountain
districts, where the population has continued
Christian, from generation to generation, to the
present hour ; Christian, in non-conformity with
the church usurping the appellation. Catholic.
It was their obscurity and non-intercourse with
the world, during the period of almost general

INTRODUCTION. 3

submission to the Romish yoke, which preserved
tliem from corruption. Traces of such churches
in the Alps, in the Pyrenees, and in the Apen-
nines, are clearly discernible in the Canons of
Councils and in the writings of most of the Romish
annalists and controversialists of France, Spain,
and Italy, up to the great epoch of Papal supre-
macy in the eleventh century; and the light, which
modern researches is casting every year upon the
history of nations, helps us to perceive, that the
chain, which connects the Primitive and the Pro-
testant Churches, is unbroken in various places,
where it w^as supposed to have been dissevered.
There are very few readers, who do not imagine,
that every vestige of the Albigensians was swept
from the earth, during the crusades of Simon de
Montford, and that the ancient churches of Pro-
vence and Dauphine, which formed the stock, on
which the Reformed congregations of the south of
France were grafted in the sixteenth century, were
utterly cut down, root and branch, after the revo-
cation of the Edict of Nantes. This, however, was
not tlic case : some few remnants were spared ; and
families in ttie remote valleys of the Pyrenees, and
otflic Aljjs, lia\(' bt^en permitted to experience the
promise ol" the |{c(lcciii('r, " \\ licrc two oi- fbi-ce are
gatliered togetlicr in luy name, there am I in flie
midst of fbein. " 'I'licse ba\(' ])reser\((l liie |)iire
kno\Nle(lne wliicli ilirir lordal licis Iraiisniilled
to tlieiii, and tile .-cri))! iiial i^reetiii^- " Aipiila

b2

INTUODUCTION.

and Priscillu siilutc you in the Lord, with the
Cliurcli which is in their house," has oftentimes
been passing from one secluded spot to another,
wlien all were supposed to have been dragooned
into the service of the Mass. And not only so,
but in some few instances, whole communes, or
])arislies, liave refused to submit, even outwardly,
to the exactions of Romish usurpation.

The following pages record an example of this.

My belief, that the dreary wildernesses of the
Alpine provinces of France might still be har-
bouring some of these descendants of the primitive
Christians of Gaul, was confirmed by a letter wdiich
I received in the winter of 1826, from the Reverend
Francis Cunningham, to whom the Protestant
cause owes much. His frequent journeys, and
correspondence, and his unlimited philanthropy,
have put him in the way of knowing much that is
going on among all that is truly Christian on the
Continent. He w as greatly instrumental in bring-
ing the imperishable name of Oberlin under the
notice of English readers, and to him my grateful
thanks are due, for the first information I received
of Neff, and his Christian labours. The letter,
to w liich I allude, contained the information that
Felix Neff, a young clergyman, w^as then toiling
among a people, in Dauphine, so poor, that they
had no means of providing salaries for ministers
or schoolmasters : and so little favoured by nature,
tliat for seven months out of twelve, their land lay

INTIIODUCTION. O

buried iu snow. Two years afterwards Mr. Ciin-
iiiugham sent me a paper, drawn up by Netf him-
self, describing' the nature of his charge, and some
of the difficulties he had to encounter. I now
present the substance of that paper to the reader,
as an explanatory preface, which will at once put
him in possession of some of the circumstances
which ought to render the name of NefF himself,
and of his Alpines, dear to all who venerate heroic
zeal, and devoted benevolence.

*' In those dark times, when the Dragon, of
whom St. John speaks', made war w^ith the rem-
nant of the seed, which kept the commandments
of God, and have the testimony of Jesus Christ,
some of those, who escaped from the edge of the
sword, found a place of refuge among the moun-
tains. It was then that the most rugged valleys,
of tlie French department of the High Alps, were
peopled by the remains of those primitive Christ-
ians ^ who, after the example of Moses, when he
preferred the reproach of Christ to the riches of
Egypt, changed their fertile plains for a frightful
wilderness, l^iit fanaticism still pursued tliem,
and neither their p«n erty, nor their innocence, nor
the glaciers and j)recipices among which tliey
dwelt, entirely protected them ; and the caverns
wliicli -<'r\c(l tliciii tor cliin'chc^s, were often
wusIhmI w ill) tlicii' lilood. Pi'('\ i(>u<lv to tlic l^'^ol•-

' Ktv. xii. 17. ' !'<■« rcsti's (lis ("Im'licii.s I'liiiiilils.

() INTU()l)r( TION.

Illation, the Valley of Fressiiiiere was the only
place in France where they could maintain their
ground, and even here, they were driven from the
more productive lands, and were forced to retreat
to the very foot of the glacier, where they built
the village of Dormillcusc. This village, con-
structed like an eagle's nest, upon the side of a
mountain, was the citadel where a small portion
that was left established itself, and where the race
has continued, without any mixture with stran-
gers, to the present da)^ Others took up their
dwelling at the bottom of a deep glen, called La
Combe, a rocky abyss, to which there is no exit,
where the horizon is so bounded, that, for six
months of the year, the rays of the sun never pene-
trate. These hamlets, exposed to avalanches, and
the falling of rocks, and buried under snow half
the 3'ear, consist of hovels, of which some are
without chimneys and glazed windows, and others
have nothing but a miserable kitchen and a stable,
which is seldom cleaned out more than once a
year, and where the inhabitants spend the greater
part of the winter wath their cattle, for the sake of
the warmth. The rocks, by vihich they are en-
closed, are so barren, and the climate is so severe,
that there is no knowing how these poor Alpines,
with all their simplicity and temperance, contrive
to subsist. Their few sterile fields hang over pre-
cipices, and are covered, in places, with enormous
blocks of granite, which roll every year from the

INTUODrcTlON

cliffs above. Some seasons even rye will uol
ripen there. The pasturages are, many of them,
inaccessible to cattle, and scarcely safe for sheej).
Such wretched soil cannot be expected to yield
any thing- more than what will barely sustain life,
and pay the taxes, which owing to the unfeeling-
negligence of the inspectors, are too often levied
without proper consideration for the unproductive-
ness of the land. The clothing of these poor crea-
tures is made of coarse wool, which they dress
and weave themselves. Their principal food is
unsifted rye ; this they bake into cakes in the
autumn so as to last the whole year.

" The revocation of the Edict of Nantes, in 1686,
deprived them of their ministers, and we may
judge what their condition must have been for
many years ; Init still there was ilot a total famine
of the Word among them. They met together to
read the Bible and to sing psalms ; and although
they liad an ancient church in Dormilleuse, they
were building a second in La Combe, which was
not finished when I first arrived there. Such was
their situation wlien Providence directed me to
their valleys in iH'ili. They received me most
gladly ; they attended my preaching with eager-
ness, and gave tliemselves iij) to iiiv giiidaucc in
all tliat I undertook for their iii»|)rovemeiil. I'lic
limits of this short notice will not j)ermil me to
enter into an V detail of iii\ |tri»eee( lings, diirinu' the
three years and a hall lliat 1 remained with iheni

8 INTRODUCTION.

I will merely state that my instructions were not
unproductive of good ; that many young men have
been put in the way of opening schools during the
winter ; that the sunday-schools have been fre-
quented by adults who could not profit by the
lessons given in the day-schools open to younger
persons. Up to this period the girls and the
women had been almost entirely neglected. With
the assistance of subscriptions from foreigners, one
school-room has been built, and another is in pre-
paration. Several of the inhabitants have shown
a strono- inclination to take advantao:e of the in-
formation , which I have given them on agriculture
and architecture, and in the principles of some of
the useful sciences, which hitherto were utterly
unknown to them. I have distributed many
Bibles, New Testaments, and other books of piety
among them, which, I have been pleased to find,
were not only received with gratitude, but such as
were sold were readily purchased at prime cost.
In truth, the religious knowledge communicated
to them has been so blessed, that you would not
find in any part of France more genuine piety or
simplicity of manners. But still it can hardly be
expected that this improvement will be permanent,
considering their physical, moral, and religious
condition, so long as they are without the minis-
tration of regular pastors. Up to the present time
the Valley of Fressiniere has not a pastor of its
own. It is served in connexion with the churclies

INTRODUCTION. V

of Val QuejTas, which are ten leagues distant, on
the other side of the Durance, and are separated
by a loftv range of mountains, whose passes are
not only very difficult, but absolutely dangerous
in the winter. The visits of the pastor are, there-
fore, necessarily few and at long intervals, and the
people are obliged to wait his convenience, until
they can have their children baptized, the nuptial
blessing pronounced, or any of the church services
performed. Moved by the destitute condition of
these mountaineers, who are endeared to me, not
only by their own amiable disposition, but by their
interesting origin, 1 would most willingly devote
myself to their service, and submit to all manner
of deprivation and fatigue as their pastor ; but
the frequent journeys from one church to another,
in the Valleys of Fressiniere and Queyras, have
been too much for me, and total exhaustion, pro-
ceeding from this cause, and from a stomach com-
plaint, brought on by living on unwholesome food,
have so disabled me, that I am obliged to remove
myself for the present, with very slight hopes of
ever being so restored as to l^e able to return.

" At this juncture, when respect for the adhe-
rents of the primitive doctrines and forms of Christ-
iaiiiiy lias manifested itself so conspicuously in
Ijchalf of the Protestants of the Valleys of Piemont,
I have thought it my duty to give })ublicitv to tlic
fact, that their brctlircii of (lie I-'rcncb Alps aic
• •(|iially ol»jcct> (tl' iiih'ir>(, and iinicli more in

10 INTRODUCTION.

iliLi'ciit, althoiigli tlicy luive hitherto remained
unknown iind unnoticed. It is therefore my
intention to pul)lish a history of this church, in
which 1 shall not only give a detailed account of
its present condition, but shall trace its origin up
to the remotest antiquity,"

There was enough in this modest allusion of
Neft' to his own labours, and in his generous
expression of concern for the Alpines of Dau-
phinc, to make me anxious to know more both
of this a])ostle of the Alps himself, and of his
Hock ; and as I was about to make a journey to
the Waldenses of Piemont, I determined to visit
the sublime and secluded scenery of the Val
Fressiniere, either on my w^ay to Italy or on my
return. This resolution was carried into effect,
and I had the gTatification of traversing nearly
the whole of the mountain region, wdiich is now
consecrated to the memory, not only of martyrs
of former times, but of an eminent confessor of
our own days, who, combining in his individual
character the usefulness of the pastor Olierlin,
and the devotedness of the missionary Martyn,
did spend and was spent in the service of his
Redeemer. Neff had gone to his rest a few
months only before my arrival at Dormilleuse ;
and from all that I saw and heard of the effects
of his ministry, I judged that a memoir of his
short, but extraordinary career, would not be an
uninteresting addition to the christian records of

INTRODUCTION. 11

the age in which we live. Having- explored the
scenes where he prepared the children of tlie
mountain for the coming of their Lord, and made
myself acquainted with the locality of every
hamlet within his extensive charge, I hope to be
better able to elucidate the present and former
history of this Alpine church, than any person
who has not enjoyed the same opportunities of
picking up information on the spot. The notes
of my journey contain many anecdotes of Neff,
supplied by those who knew him, and observa-
tions on the country and its peculiarities, while
its gTand scenery was before my eyes. But still,
with all these advantages, I could not have done
justice to my subject, had I not been indebted to
tlie great kindness of Miss Mary Elliott, of West-
field Lodge, for the journals of Neff himself.
These form the principal source from which the
substance of the memoir w^as drawn ; and if I had
been i)ut in possession of all the circumstances
relating to those papers, I believe I should have
liad to state, that many of Neff's noljle projects
could not have been carried into cHect, but for
the benevolent friend in Engkmd to wliom liis
journals were consigned. 1 liaxc liirl her acknow-
ledgments to make to the Rev. Richard Burgess,
liritish chaplain at Geneva, for the transmission
of a small tract, lately published under the title
of " Notice sur Felix Neff, Pasteur dans les
Ibiiiles Alpes. Fi-oiii this 1 have enriched llie

\'2 INTRODUCTION.

narrative with recollections, that have been pre-
served of Neff's early life and of his dying moments;
hut not having" fonnd any trace, either in this
" Notice," or in the journals, of his intended
history and origin of the church of the French
Alj)s, I conclude that Nefi' was disabled by long-
illness from carrying his design into effect, and I
have therefore attempted to supply the defect, by
giving the result of my own researches. I have
also filled up the relation with such remarks as
naturally occurred to one, who had visited the
scene under description, and conversed with the
extraordinary race, of whom it may literally be
said, " strong is thy dwelling-place, and thou
puttest thy nest in a rock."

But before I enter upon the relation of NefF's
personal exertions, I must clear the wa}^ by de-
scribing the situation of the country where he
was the hard-working pastor, and by explaining
the nature of the evidence which may be adduced
in support of the hypothesis, that his mountain
flock are descendants of the primitive Christians
of Gaul. This exposition will, in fact, give a
synoptical view of the Alpine churches of France
from the earliest times.

I. — Situation of the Country.

The scene of Neff "s labours is to be found in liie
most elevated region of France ; in the heart of

INTRODUCTION. 13

that mountain territory, which lies between the
Rhone and the barrier Alps, which separate France
from Italy, and in the same degree of latitude,
and within a hundred miles of the Protestant
Valleys of Piemont. It is necessary to be minute
in describing the exact situation of the country,
and to o'ive it both its ancient and its modern
designation, because, without this, the reader may
fall into the inveterate error, that all Alpine Pro-
testants must be Swiss'. Notwithstanding all
that has been written lately about those Italian

' So little is known of the Protestants of Dauphine and Pro-
vence, and their origin, tliat tlu' following is part of the account
given of the massacres at Cabrieres and Merindol, in the six-
teenth century, by the author of the life of Francis the First :
" The inhabitants of Cabrieres and Merindol had then a great
inclination for the doctrines which Luther had so successfully
promulgated, and which their neighbourhood to Germany and
Switzerland had made these people more intimately acquainted
with, than those of the surrounding French district. From
being tolerated as they were at first, they began to indulge in
that jealous insolence which is common to heretics of all descrip-
tions, and not content with pursuing their own system of worship,
they attacked that of the professors of the Church of Rome."

The People liere mentioned were not Lulficraus, they were
descendants of the primitive Christians of Gaul. Merindol
and Cabrieres are not in the neighbourhood of Germany or
Switzerland, they are villages on the Durance in Provence, in
the south of France. That the victims were not fanatics, that
they had indulged in no insolence, and had not assailed the
Roman Catholics first, may be learnt from the Roman Catholic
hihtorian I)e Thou.

14 INTRODUCTION.

Protestants, tlie Vaiulois or Waldenscs of the
Valleys of Pieinont, there is scarcely one person
in ten, to Avhoni their history is otherwise well
known, who does not yet run into the mistake,
that they are natives of Switzerland and not of
Italy. Lest any confusion should arise as to the
locality of Neff's flock, it must be borne in mind,
that they are inhabitants of that province, which
is delineated in the maps of ancient Gaul under
the name of Gallia Narbonensis. Alpes Mari-
timee, and Caturiges, are subdivisions of Gallia
Narbonensis, within the limits of which, we shall
find the city Embrodunum (the modern Embrun),
and the river Druentia, (now the Durance.) These
give the exact bearings of the deep glens, in
which the ancestors of the objects of our interest
took refuge. In the maps of modern France,
Embrun and the Durance, will be found in the
province called Dauphine, or the Delphinate, and
in the department styled " Les Hautes Alpes,"
or the high Alps, a name which well describes
the nature of the country, and its formidable
aspect. Ancient historians did not magnify the
difficulties of traversing it, when they spoke of the
region of the Durance as presenting more impedi-
ments to the passage of an army, than any other
region in Gaul'. A writer, of the present day^,
has represented the march of an army through

' Livy lib. xxi. Silv. Ital. lib. xxxviii. ' Sismondi.

INTRODUCTION. 15

this district to be utterly impossible, unless it be
provided with the means of blasting the rocks,
of throwing" bridges over the terrible abysses that
yawn on every side, and of cutting galleries on
the edge of precipices. In one of the latest geo-
graphical delineations \ the department is repre-
sented as being walled in and intersected by high
mountains, whose tops are covered with snow, hav-
ing a soil and climate so variable, that if you are
making a journey of two short days, you will be
in the midst of smiling villages, enjoying a bright
sky and a warm sun, and delicious productions of
the earth one day, and the next you wdll be shiver-
ing with cold, and chilled with the sight of black
rocks, or frozen snows, and despairing of obtaining
a morsel of food to your taste. The author of a
well written little book, entitled "• Hannibars Pas-
sage of the Alps, by a member of the University
of Cambridge," considers this to have been the
region (and De Thou, the historian, was of the
same opinion) where Hannibal found the greatest
obstacles in forcing his way through the rugged
d('])ths, and over the lofty summits, wliich lay in
liis line of ii)an;h. " The appearance of tlie Alps
(ahitiido uioiiliiiiii, iiives(jiie cd'h) prope immistae,)
and tlic savage luid di-eary aspect of every thiiio-
animate and iiiaiiiinalc, around fln-ni, absohitcly

' "Tableau Gt'Of^rapliiciuc tt St;iti.sti(|iu' dii Drpaiii'iiu'iit di-s
IIuutc'H Alpcs."

16 INTRODUCTION.

torriHed tile Cartliagiiiians. " That wliicli will be
tliouglit as much to our purpose as the face of the
country, is the character of the people there. The
indomitable spirit imputed to their ancestors by
ancient historians, has been inherited, from gene-
ration to generation, by the mountaineers of more
recent times; and the compiler of the " Atlas of
Gaul," enumerates them among the most resolute
defenders of their liberties K But the most ex-
traordinary description of all is that, which is
recorded in the pages of De Thou, and for this
reason : what De Thou represented the mountain-
eers of this territory to have been in the sixteenth
century, Neff found them, with very little differ-
ence, in the nineteenth ; and I myself saw them in
1829, under circumstances which recalled the
French historian's account strongly to my mind.

" Of all these regions the Val Frcssiniere is the
most repulsive and wild ; its soil is sterile and un-
productive, and its inhabitants are most lament-
ably poor. They are clothed in sheepskins, and
they have no linen in use, either for their gar-
ments or their beds. They sleep in the clothes
which they wear during the day. They inhabit
seven villages, and their houses are made of stone,
with flat roofs, and mud cement. In these hovels

' Atlas Novus Galliae. Amstelodami, IGIJ). " Incola;
magni sunt libcrtatis suae assertatorcs et aestimatores. — Militia
contra hosteni feroces."

INTRODUCTION. 17

the people and their cattle live together, and they
often take refuge in caves when they expect an
attack from their enemies, in one corner of which
they themselves lie concealed, and, in the other,
their sheep and kine. They subsist principally on
milk and venison, and their occupation is tend-
ing their cattle. The}' are skilful marksmen, and
seldom miss either the chamois or the bear ; but
fi-om the filthy manner in which they devour the
flesh of these animals, they become so offensive to
the smell, that strangers can scarcely bear to be
within scent of them. Happy in these their scanty
resources, they are all equally poor alike ; but
they have no mendicants among them, and, con-
tented among themselves, they very seldom form
either friendships or connexions with others. In
this state of squalidness, which causes them to
present a most uncouth appearance, it is surprising
that they are very far from being uncultivated in
their morals. They almost all understand Latin,
and are able to write fairly enough. They under-
stand also as much of French as will enable them
to read the Bil)le, and to sing psalms ; nor would
you easily find a boy among them, who, if he were
(juestioned as to the religious opinions, which they
liold in conmiDii witli llie Waldenses, would not be
able to oivc. IVoiii iiicniory, a reasonable account of
tlicni. 'i'liey pay taxes most scruj)ulously, and
tlio (bitv of doinn; tliis forms an article of tiieir eon-
fe.s.siou of failli. I'nl iftliev ;irr |ii-e\tiite(l IVom

18 INTRODUCTION.

making ])avment by civil wars, they lay apart the
proper sum, and on the return of peace, they take
care to settle with the royal tax gatherers'."

De Thou gives the locality of these Alpines with
equal precision. " As you proceed towards the
east, from Embrun, the capital of the maritime
Alps, wlien vou have travelled about five leagues,
tlie Valley of Queyras branches off towards the
right, and that of Fressiniere towards the left hand.
Between the two the ruins of the ancient city of
Rama are still conspicuous. From thence, on the
other side of the mountain ridge, a narrow pass is
hewn out of the rock, by dint of human labour,
and opens a way across some difficult and rugged
countr}^, which is still called, by the natives, Han-
nibal's road. In the direction towards Brian^on,
there is another valley, opening to the left, called
Louise, from Louis XII. who gave it his own name,
in a moment of compunction for the injuries which
he was w^ell nigh about to inflict upon it, instead
of the contumelious appellation of Val Pute,
which it had received in contempt for the false
relio-ion of its inhabitants ^"

This is the Alpine desert where Neff sacri-
ficed his life in the cause of pure religion, and its
natives are the people, whom he considered to be
the lineal and unmixed descendants of the' first con-
verts to Christianity, in the mountain province of

' Thuani Hist. lib. xxvii. ' Ibid, xxvii. 9.

INTRODUCTION. 19

Dauphiue, in other words the remains of primitive
Christians.

II. — Evidence that the Alpine Protestant Congre-
gations of Dauphinc are the remains of the Primi-
tive Christians of Gaul.

It was mv original intention to prefix, or to ap-
pend to this work, a regular historical detail, and
to transcribe such records as I have, in proof of tlie
reality of the descent of our Alpines from a line of
ancestors, who never worshipped God as they do at
Rome, that is, after a manner which Protestants
believe that God has forbidden. But when I came
to commit my materials to paper, I found they
were so voluminous, that it was necessary to re-
cast mv plan, and to give an outline only of the
argument. My enquiries had led mc through
divers literary records of every century, contained
in the sheets of Ecclesiastical History, or of Po-
lemical Theology ; and in every century up to the
second, tracing the vestiges upwards in the line
of antiquity, I found myself in the footsteps of
Christians, dwelling in tlie Alpine Valleys of Dau-
phins, who might claim fellowship with the primi-
tive Christians of antiquity, and with the Protes-
tants of modern times, in two characteristic points
of resemblance: in tlicir rejecting unscriptural
helps to devotion, sucli as imag(! worsliip, and iIm'
intfrcessinri f»f fm\- but tlif orif Mcdinfor bcKsccii

f 9

20 INTRODT'CTFON.

God and man ; and in their steady resistance of
unscriptural authority usurped by the bishops of
Rome.

Between the revocation of the Edict of Nantes
in 168G, and tlie Edict of Toleration by Louis XVI.,
it was forbidden to exercise any form of religion
in France, except the Roman Catholic; but I have
conversed with aged natives of Dormilleuse, Neff 's
principal village, who I'cmember the tales which
were told them by their fathers and grandfathers,
of Vaudois pastors, harboured in their houses, at the
risk of their lives, and crossing the Alps in disguise
to administer the services of their church to families,
to whom the presence of those devoted men was like
angels' visits — strengthening the weak, and con-
firming the strong. I have also seen Bibles, printed
in the seventeenth century, which have been hand-
ed down from father to son, ' ' the big hall Bible once
their father's pride," and had been concealed from
inquisitorial search by being buried in the earth.
For the Christianity, not Romish, whicli prevailed
in an unbroken line in this partof Dauphin e, during
a hundred years before the revocation of the Edict of
Nantes, the reader may consult the general and
ecclesiastical historians of France, who will place
before him articles of synod and confessions of faith,
which sufficiently identify the principles of the pri-
mitive and those of the reformed churches. These
authorities will also tell him, that this province had,
at one period, as many as ninety-four Protestant

INTRODUCTION. 'J I

pastors, and a Protestant University at Die, with
an array of Hebrew, Greek, and Divinity pro-
fessors, and a respectable body of teachers in dif-
ferent branches of science and literature'.

The oreat muster in France, and the oatherinti'
of those, who determined to vindicate their religious
rights, took place between the years 1550 and
1572. The first national synod of Protestants was
held in 1559, and in the twelve years that followed,
there were no less than seven synods. The places
where some of these councils were held, bear wit-
ness, that from the centre of the kingdom, to its
farthest extremities, east, west, north, and south,
the standard of religious independence had been
displayed. At Paris, Poictiers, Orleans, Rochelle,
Lyons, and Nismes, delegates assembled in coun-
cil, and there represented churches which declared
themselves reformed and Protestant. But some
of these, particularly the delegates from parts of
Dauphine and Provence, announced, " We con-
sent to merge in the common cause, but we require
no reformation, for our forefathers and ourselves
have ever disclaimed the corruptions of the
churches in communion with Rome."

I have not been al)h' to ascertain the exact num-
ber <jf tlic remains of the primitive Cliristians in
Daiipliiiu't and Provence between the years 1550
and I57"J : the first being the date when the

' Gallia Rclbrinata, \ ol. 1.

•2'2 INTRODUCTION.

uioiiiitaiu churches of France began to liave rest,
and the second the epoch when they were fright-
fully wasted by the persecutions, subsequent upon
the massacre of St. Bartholomew ; but in the
beginning of the sixteenth century, we know that
they amounted to 50,000. This enumeration is
made in the re])ort of an inquisitorial process issued
aaainst them in 1501. The destruction of most
of their own manuscripts- relating to their history,
at different periods of persecution, was so com-
plete, that we should have had but few memorials
to produce, had not the documents of their enemies
furnished us with indisputable evidence. When
the palace of the archbishop of Embrun was taken
by the duke de Lesdiguieres in 1585, there was
found, among the archiepiscopal archives, a col-
lection of papers, containing an account of pro-
cesses from time to time against the non-conformists
of Dauphine, and these are our authority for many
of the statements that have been made. " Not
being fully extirpated,'' is the language of the
process, " thev betook themselves to the utmost
parts of Dauphine, among the Alps, and in the
caves of the mountains, places exceedingly diflicult
to approach, where more than 50,000 of them did
inhabit." The same inquisitorial report, from
which this extract is taken, makes mention of
previous proceedings against our mountaineers for
the same alleged crimes, viz. that " they con-
sidered the Roman Church to be the Babylon of

INTRODUCTION. 23

the Book of Revelations, and they believed it to
be as efficacious to pray to God in a stable as in a
church. For this cause the most reverend pre-
lates of Embrun, and the inquisitors, have taken
great pains to root them out."

A Papal Bull of this period is another clue to
guide us through the labyrinth. This instrument
was dated 26 June 1487, and promised the apos-
tolic benediction to all who should distino-uish
themselves in the work of extermination, against
those " inveterate heretics of the dioceses of Lyons,
Vienne, and Embrun."' It consecrated the war
that was to be waged against them, under the
high and holy name of a crusade, and invited
all the faithful " to tread them under foot as
venomous adders, and to destroy them." This
humane recommendation was followed up with
zeal coiTesponding with the wishes of the holy
Father at Rome.

" The secular power was employed," said the
report, " under that valiant soldier the Lord Hugo
de Palide, Count of Varax, and Lieutenant of
Danphin(', who proceeded against them, on which
thcv left tlieir houses and betook them to the holes
and secret places of the mountains, and the cliU's
of the rocks, for tlieir fortresses."

Perrin gives a most lamentable account of the
(■xtirj)ation of the Protestants of Val Louise in 1488.
" Wlwii tiic kings lieutenant arrived with his troops
in the vallev, none of the inhabitants were found,

24 INTRODUCTION.

for they liad all retired into the caverns on the
highest mountains, having carried with them their
little ones, and all that they could transport there
for nourishment. The lieutenant commanded a
great quantity of wood to be laid at the entrance
of those caverns, to burn or smoke them out.
Some were slain in attempting to escape, others
threw themselves headlong on the rocks below,
others were smothered ; there were afterwards
found within the caverns 400 infants stifled in the
arms of their dead mothers. It is believed, as a
certain fact, that 3000 persons perished on that
occasion in the valley. In a word the religionists
there were wholly exterminated, so that from that
time forward it was peopled with new inhabitants,
and none of the ancient race ever established
themselves there again."

A horrible crusade had been carried on pre-
viously to this, in the year 1478, when even the
ruthless Louis XI. was so disgusted by the cruelties
of the inquisitors, and by the confiscations in the
valleys of Fressiniere and Argentiere, that he
issued an edict to check them. This was dated
Arras, May 18, 1478.

Advancing still higher up, into those gloomy
ages when it was guilt, for which there was no
pardon, to hold religious opinions different from
the papal clergy, I find that Perrin, the Walden-
sian historian just quoted, had but very limited
information, when he spoke of the persecution of

INTRODUCTION. '25

1380 as the first against the uoncoiitormists of
Daiiphine. The annals of the prelates of Enibrun '
acquahit us, that in 1360 Gulielmus de Bardis
distinguished his episcopate, by directing fierce
warfare against the nonconformists of his diocese.
Bertrand de d'Eux is represented as covering
him::elf with glory in 1337 after the same manner,
A hundred years before this, I find Aumarus stain-
ing: his crozier in the blood of those who would not
acknowledge the supremacy of the Roman pontiff.
His immediate predecessor, Bernard Chabert, first
carried fire and sword into the plains of Languedoc,
by the side of Simon de Montfort, and then pur-
sued the Albigensian fugitives, when they thought
to take refuge in the fastnesses of the Durance
amono; brethren of the same faith. Raimond de
Salvagris, archbishop of Embrun in 1210", was
equally on the alert against the impugners of
papal infallibility. These two last mentioned
prelates achieved so much against the moun-
taineers, who would not prove false to the creed of
their forefathers, tliat it was a saying of the times,
that a sufficient (piantity of lime and stone could
not be procured, to build prisons for those who
were convicted of hostility to the religion of Rome.
I liave tlius traced in this Alpine region the pre-
valence of the same religious principles at the
beginning of tlie thirteenth centurv, which at-

' Gall. Christiana, 'loin. I. ' Ibiil.

26 INTRODLCTION.

tracted Neti's notice in the nineteenth. The
Romanists allow that this may be done, but they
say that such principles were then new to the
Christian world, and that the spirit of enmity
against their church, which has since spread over
great part of Europe, and which gave birth, as
they pretend, to the Waldensian separatists of
Spain, France and Italy, and to the Protestant
communities of Great Britain, Switzerland, Ger-
many, and other countries, was first cherished in
the bosom of the followers of Waldo, when they
were chased from Lyons in 1172, and fled into the
valleys of Dauphine and Piemont. The Wal-
denses, or members of the mountain churches,
whether of Spain, Italy or France^ (for the term
Waldenses means nothing more than natives of
mountain valleys,) were not sects : they were
true component parts of the body of Christ, and
faithful asserters of the truth as it is in Jesus,
when others declined from it.

But I am not going now into the theological
question, or into the wide field of the general
enquiry ; my present business is to connect the
Christians of Dauphine, with the Christians of

' The more the remote valleys of the Alps and Pyrenees are
visited, and the history of their natives is developed, this truth
will emerge into clear and bright light — that the Italian Waldenses,
the Albigcnses, the Subalpins of Dauphine and Provence, and
the Pyrenean Waldenses, were all independent of each other, and
remains or branches of the primitive churches in those parts.

INTRODUCTION. 27

primitive times, and to lix the attention of my
readers upon the broad partition wall, which,
through the whole of the dark and middle ages,
divided certain religionists of this province from
those, who consented to receive spiritual law from
Rome.

' ' A sect which took its rise from Peter Waldo,
in 1172." This is the calumny which has been
so long' perpetuated against the churches of the
mountains on each side of the Alps. What can
we adduce in refutation of it, with regard to the
nonconforming churches of Dauphine ? Were
there no determined confessors in this province,
who opposed themselves to the phalanx of the
Vatican, and declared Rome to be Babylon, and
her canons and articles of faith and discipline to
be unscriptural, before the 3'ear 1172 ? It is the
hio-hest satisfaction to fathom amono; the archives
of an adversary, and to draw, from the deposi-
tories of his documents, evidence to establish our
own case. From the same Romish Chronicles',
which tell us that the hierarchy of Einbrun was
persecuting the congregations of Val Fressiniere,
at a period when Perrin (who could find no
m<;ntion of it in Protestant annals,) meekly hoped
tliat liis l)rctliren of tli(; mountains were unmo-
lested, from these we learn that the bishops of
Vaison, a dioccBC in the province of Dauphine,

' Ciall. C'lirihtiana.

28 INTRODUCTION.

wore noiniimted and received their investiture, not
from the pope, but from their native and petty
sovereigns, the lords of the territory. We are
even informed by what right they exercised this
patronage, namely, in virtue of their descent from
Faida, heiress of Gilbert, Count of Provence.
The sovereign pontiff fulminated his protests,
his interdicts, and his excommunications, when-
ever a new bishop was made, as all the popes had
been taught to do by Gregory VII. who denounced
anathemas against every one, who should venture
to have any opinion of his own on matters of re-
lisfion. But the maledictions of Heaven were
especially proclaimed against all, who should take
any part in the distribution of church dignities
without papal permission. There was to be
no election, no investiture, no conferring even
temporalities upon bishops or clergy, but in the
name and under the authority of the pontifical
seal. Nevertheless in the middle of the twelfth
century, thirty years before the alleged origin of
any systematic resistance of the will that was to
guide all Christendom, we find distinct mention
of a series of episcopal elections without any
authority from the pope, in spite of the anathemas
which were issued to prevent such proceedings.
This, however, is only one example — we are
directed by other Romish documents to still more
convincing witnesses, that the " new sect" of 1172
was a venerable branch of the apostolical stem.

INTRODUCTION. 29

There is a large collection of ancient epistles and
documents, published by two Benedictine Monks,
Marten and Durand', which the editors state to
have been preserved in the manuscript libraries
of certain cathedrals and monasteries. In the
first volume of this curious publication, there is
the copy of a letter addressed to Pope Lucius II.
in 1144, in which the writer describes to his
holiness the great influence of a religious commu-
nity of Dauphine, which had " its divers degrees,
its neophytes, its priests, and even its bishops, as
we have. It maintains that sins are not remitted
by the sprinkling of water only in baptism —
that the eucharist, and the imposition of hands
administered by our clergy, avail nothing. "
" Every part of France," such is the concluding-
sentence of the letter, " is polluted by the poison
issuing from this region."

Other letters, addressed by the celebrated Peter,
Abbot of Clugny, to the Bishops of Embrun, Gap
and Die, all in Dauphine, between the years 1120
and 1134, contain pressing exhortations to those
prelates to check opinions, which had taken fast
liold in their dioceses, and had spread from thence
into Gascony and Languedoc.

" ^'ou must -till persevere," said iIk; |)i()iis
abbot, " you must root out thi- iniscliicf froui its

' " Veterum Scriptorimi el MDiiuinciitoiuiii Aiiiplissiin;! Cul-
Iccti«»." Paris, 1721.

30 INTRODUCTION.

hidino- places', by preaching against it ; but if that
will not do, and if necessary, by an armed force."

The third canon of the council of Thoulouse,
held A. D. 1119, bears witness to the activity of
Christians in the same quarter, who were then
*' busily agitating the questions of the real pre-
sence, infant baptism, and validity of sacerdotal
orders."

These are some of the essential questions of
controversy between all Protestant churches,
(especially those of the Alps,) and the Romish
church, and the records of the eleventh century
prove, that even then they were not new to France,
and more particularly, that they were not new to
the Alpine regions of Dauphine. In 1050, a
Romish controversialist complained to the king of
France, that Berengarius was re-introducing there
that OLD^ matter of difference, the eucharistic
discussion ; and in 1025, when some recusants
were accused, before a public tribunal at Arras, of
holdinjr sentiments such as Neff's churches of
Vals Fressiniere and Queyras, and other Protes-
tant churches now hold, it came out, in evidence,
that they had acquired their opinions of certain
strangers from the Alpine borders of Italy ^ !

What then becomes of the Romish fable, that
the mountain congregation of Dauphine was a

' " Latibula." Gall. Christiana, Tom. i.

' Labbaei Con. Tom. ix. p. 1061.

' Dacherii Spicilegium, Vol. xiii. p. 2.

INTRODUCTION. 31

new sect in 117*2, when we can thus distinctly
trace the existence of Alpine churches, opposed to
Rome, in the same province, one hundred and
fifty years before ? And what lights were there
at that dark period, which would enable poor il-
literate shepherds and herdsmen to see their way
out of the gloom, into which the ignorance and
wickedness of the age had cast men of all ranks
and stations? If in 1025 Christian communities
could be found, in remote glens and forests, who
worshipped God and his Christ without the aid of
images, and without any of those adjuncts and
helps, to which the Romish churches then had re-
course, the probability is, not that they had learnt
a new lesson, but that they were practising a very
old one, which had been handed down to them
from their fathers. Well then, what do we dis-
cover in the ecclesiastical or general history of this
Alpine province, previously to the period which
we have just been examining, which leads us to
suppose that religious opinions or practices were
then cherished there, which were not in accord-
ance with the Romish churches?

Itwas about the middle of the ninth century, that
the bishops of f{ome established their pretensions in
France : before tliat epoch a certain degree of de-
ference was paid to their decisions, wliih- tlu-ir juris-
diction was b\ no rmaiis acknowledged, liiil at the
v(-ry time wlien tliev were making ra|)id advances
towards the object of tiieir ainbiti(»n. (he prchitcs

I

32 INTRODUCTION.

of the sees which lie between the Rhone and the
Alps, resisted their encroachments on some very
material points. For example, there is a rescript
of pope John VIII. complaining, in 877, that the
archbishop of Embrun had consecrated a bishop
of Vienne, according to the ancient formulary of
the Gallic churches, and not in conformity with
the ritual prescribed at Rome. And just at the
crisis, when the prelates of Dauphine began to be
more obedient to their foreign master, the Sara-
cens invaded the province, the bishops of Embrun
fled, and the see was left many years without its
head. This was after the year 916, and thus the
remains of the primitive Christians, in the valleys
of the Durance, were left many years without the
presence of an oppressive and prosel^^tising hierar-
chy, at the very time when Romish influence was
on the alert elsewhere. When the foreign in-
vaders were expelled, troubles of a different kind
proved favourable to the independent spirit of the
mountaineers. The feudal lords of the territory
carried their exactions so far, as to exasperate the
citizens of walled towns, who shut their gates
against their former masters. To obtain parti zans,
the barons granted extraordinary privileges to the
occupiers of lands, and brought the rural popu-
lation into a state of hostility with the inhabitants
of the towns. The Romish bishops and clergy
sided with the latter ; so that while they were
bringing over to their interests the dwellers in

INTRODUCTION. 33

cities, they were making less progress among the
people of the field and the hill-country.

It has heen already observed, that the great
distinouishino- marks of the Primitive and Pro-
testant churches, is the rejection of all helps to
devotion, which have not the sanction of Scripture.
The prominent feature of the Romish Church is
the adoption of such helps. Image worship is one
of these. To show that image worship was a mat-
ter of abhorrence throughout the region of our
inquiry, in the centuries through which we de-
sire to trace the existence of a community pro-
testing from age to age against the dogmas of Rome,
is a great step towards the accomplishment of our
object. In the ninth, eighth, and seventh cen-
turies, (still tracking the vestiges of the primitive
Christians of the Alpine regions of France upwards,
from more recent periods, to the earliest times of
their conversion,) there were signal testimonies
given in the churches of this quarter of their
adherence to forms of worship unadulterated by
the introduction of external representations. In
the eighth century, Agobard, archbishop of Lyons,
wrote a work, which he called " a Treatise on
Pictures and Images," and in wliicli he pronounced
image worship to be idolatry. A more able refu-
tation of the errors on tliis subject has never l)eeii
written eitlier before or since. One passage I
cannot but transcribe. After citing Deiiteroiioniy
iv. 12-15, Agobaivl niake-i this remark on the

34 INTRODUCTION.

sacred text : — " On which words it is to be ob-
served, that if the works of God's hands are not
to be adored and worshipped, no, not even in
honor of God himself, much less are the works of
men's hands to be adored and worshipped, in honor
of those wlioni they are said to represent ^" Pro-
testants will smile to learn, that against this re-
mark of Agobard, the popish editors of the publi-
cation which contains the Treatise, have put this
admonitory note: — " Caute lege," i. e. Read this
cautiously.

I must not dismiss Agobard without relating
another service which he did to the Christian
Church universal, against the corruptions and arro-
gances of the bishop of Rome. He strongly main-
tained the independence of the Gallic churches,
and in two of his works, still extant, he entered
into an argument to prove, that the councils of
Gaul had full authority to make canons and re-
gulations for the churches of Gaul, and that their
synods were legitimate, and in possession of ple-
nary powers, although there were no papal legates
at the session ^

In 794, the Gallic bishops at the council of
Frankfort, and among the rest the bishops of
Grenoble, Gap, and Embrun, entered their solemn
protest against that article of the second council of

' Bib. Patr. ix. 590.

^ Bib. Patr. ix. .VIS. .lustel. Bib. Can. .Tiiris. Pref. p. 23.

INTKODICTION. 35

Nice, whicli was meant to make image worship the
law of the Christian churches, and which was sanc-
tioned by all the authority that the popes could give
it. But the most memorable effort, in defence of
images, was resisted by an equally memorable re-
jection of them about the year 600. Pope Gregory
the First signalized his pontificate by a correspond-
ence with Serenus, bishop of Marseilles, which forms
a most curious link in the chain of our evidence, as
proving, first, that the popes had no jurisdiction be-
yond their own Italian see ; secondly, that Rome
liad not then gone all those lengths in the error
of image worship, to which she has since run ; and
thirdly, that the superstitions, whicli were thicken-
ing elsewhere, were held in check by the wisdom
and piety of Christians in this part of the world.
Serenus had given orders for the destruction of
some images which had been set up in churches
of his diocese. This gave oftence to his brother
of the Seven Hills, who addressed a letter to him,
not of command, but of expostulation, begging him
to think ])etter of the matter, and not to destroy that
whicli should be preserved for expediency sake.
" Vou ought, at tlie same time," said Gregory, " to
caution the people against adoring the images.''
images and jMcturcs then, according to the opinion
of pa])al casuists <tf that day, were to l)e iiiiioduced
into (■liiir<-h«'S as memorials, but not as objects of
worship. \ t'r\' ditliTriit is tin' hniLi'iiagc ot tlir
coiiiiciU ol .\i<"c ;iii(l Tmit, iiikI iIk Tfforc ii(»l

I) -J

36 INTRODUCTION.

altooetlier illustrative of tlic unities and uncliano;e-
al)leness of the Romish faitli. Sercnus woiikl not
tolerate images even in Gregory's sense of their
usefulness. He paid no attention to the pontiff's
admonition, and for three years Gregory l)ore his
disrespect in silence. He then wrote another
epistle to Serenus, still remonstrating only with
him, and repeating his former advice : " For it
is one thing," said the holy father, " to adore an
image, and another thing to learn from it what
ought to be adored." But Serenus was not to be
moved from his righteous purpose : he destroyed
all he could find.

As the tone of pope Gregory's letters ' to Sere-
nus proves, that Rome exercised no spiritual autho-
rity over the Gallic provinces in the seventh century,
so does an epistle of pope Innocent to a prelate of
the same country, in the year 404, attest, that
papal domination was not then established in the
transalpine provinces^. Innocent, in this epistle,
appears to be exhorting, advising, and persuading
his correspondent to adopt the regulations of the
Church of Rome ; a clear proof that such regu-
lations had not then been adopted, and that the
documents of antiquity are against the pretensions
of Rome to universal obedience, and to prescriptive
sway from the earliest ages.

The records of these more remote ages testify

' Sismondi Concilia Galliae, ii. 431. 449. ^ Ibid. i. 30.

INTROmCTION. 37

equally to the existence of pure Christianity, and
of independent church government, in the moun-
tain provinces of France. The canons of the
council of Orange in 529, at wliich the delegates
of the churches of Dauphine were present, differ
very little from the Thirty-nine Articles of the
Church of England, and are at utter variance with
those of modern Rome. The council of Aries, in
314, which represented all the churches of Europe,
put forth nothing which a Protestant of the present
day could not sign ; and the thirteen bishops of
Gallia Narbonensis, (the country between the
Rhone and the Alps,) who held a synod, at which
Ireneeus, bishop of Lyons, presided, towards the
end of the second century, may fairly be sup-
posed to have subscribed the same opinions with
Irenaeus himself. What those sentiments were, is
collected from his works. It is enough for our
present purpose to state, that those works have ren-
dered it a matter of certainty, that Irena3us held
it to be a mark of decline from the pure Gospel to
embrace any doctrines, that might want the sanc-
tion of Scrij)ture, or to maintain that the Scriptures
were unintelligible without the help of tradition, or
to assert that Scripture does not form an infallible
rule of faith. This apostolical father also de-
nounced the use of imago, as a heatlicii abonii-
iiatioij, rejected the inxociition or>;iiiifs, sj>ok(' of
the profession of celibacy as violence done to naliin',
and liffcd lip lii- \(»ic(' against tlic r;i^li ;ittciiij)t

38 INTUOIJUCTION.

ot" Victor, bisliop of Rome, to dictate to foreign
cliurclies on the ])aschal controversy.

It is most probable that the Alpine churches
of Dauphine were planted while Ireneeus was bishop
of Lyons. The vicinity of this mountain region to
the cities of Lyons and Vienne — the asylum which
it was likely to ofler to the Christian fugitives from
the banks of the Rhone, during the persecution of
Marcus Aurelian : the fact related by Irenaeus
himself, that he learned the dialect of the country ',
to enable him to preach to the natives (the lan-
guage spoken at Lyons and Vienne was Latin) : the
journey which Ireneeus took to Rome, and which
must have been undertaken by the great military
road, which passed through the very heart of the
territory described in these pages ; all these con-
cur in persuading us, that the Gospel was first
preached there towards the end of the second cen-
tury. The evidences, which have been here pointed
out to notice, are intended to prove, that as the
Gospel w^as delivered to the mountaineers of Dau-
phine by the missionaries of that period, so it
has been professed by some of their descendants
ever since, and that Neff's flock have a just claim
to the venerable appellation which he gave to them,
'' The remains of the primitive Christians of the
French Alps."

In the words of AUix, " May it l>e of use to

' Ncff did the same.

INTRODUCTION. 39

Strengthen the faith of the Protestants, who will
perceive from thence, that God never left himself
without witness, as having preserved in the bosom
of these churches most illustrious professors of the
Christian religion, which they held in the same
purity, with which their predecessors had received
this precious pledge from the hands of apostolical
men, who at first planted their churches among the
Alps and Pyrensean mountains, that they might
be exposed to the view of four or five kingdoms all
at once."

MEMOIR OF NEFF,

Src.

CHAPTER I.

Neff's Birth and Education — His frut Tastes and Occupation —
His Military Career — Leaves the Army and becomes a Pro-
bationer for Holy Orders — Exercises the Functions of a
Probationer in the S7viss Cantons.

Felix Neff, the subject of this Memoir, was born
in the year 1798, and was brought up in a village
near Geneva, under the care of his widowed
mother ; and he has added one more to the
number of distinguished men, who have owed
their first strong impressions to the admirable
effects produced by maternal vigilance, and to
lessons taught by female lips. The pure air of
the delightful region where he spent his boyish
days, and the long rambles which he was per-
mitted to take in the midst of splendid mountain
scenery, not only contributed to form a robust
constitution, but to Inspire a taste for the sublime
and beaiifiliil, wliicii (lisj>laye(l itself in his cliarac-
ter tbroiiiilioiif the whole of his very reiiiarkahle

42 lUKTlI AND liDl'CATION,

career. Even when he was a child, there was no
amusement, which the town of Geneva could
offer, greater than the enjoyment which he de-
rived from following his own more rational and
invigorating diversions, by the side of the torrent
or the lake. When twelve years old he was invited
by a companion to accompany him to some the-
atrical spectacle, which was in great favour at the
time, and upon his declining to go, he was asked,
" Do you think you will not be entertained?"
'' Perhaps," said he, "I should be too much
entertained."

When his mother had laid the first foundation,
the village pastor gave him instruction in Latin,
botany, history, and geography. The books
which were within his reach were probably but
few, and of these, the works of Plutarch, and
some of the unobjectionable volumes of J. J. Rous-
seau, are said to have had a large share of his
attention: the former delighted him, because they
made him acquainted with great men, and great
achievements, and the latter, because they gave
encouragement to his natural taste for scenery.
With one of these in his hand, he would scale the
rock, or climb the mountain, and spend hours in
imagining the useful actions which he might be
destined to perform, and the regions which it
might be his fate to explore. It would seem that
military exploits and scientific research were the
visions of his bovhood, and, in the course of this

TASTES AM) OCCUPATION. 43

narrative, it will be found that those early predilec-
tions, and the emploj-ments of his youth, when
he was oblig-ed to pursue some occupation for his
subsistence, proved an eminently beneficial train-
ing for the more sacred duties to which he
afterwards consecrated himself. The same ardent
spirit, and high courage, the same meditative
disposition and inquiring genius, the same love
of mountain life and scenerj'- accompanied him to
the Alpine wilderness ; and the same burning
desire to be useful in his generation, found ample
gratification, when he became the spiritual shep-
herd of a flock, who had none to guide them
before he undertook the charge.

When it was time for Neff" to select a profession,
necessity or choice, or perhaps both combined,
induced him to engage himself to the proprietor
of a nursery-ground, or florist gardener, and at
sixteen he published a little treatise on the culture
of trees. The accuracy and arrangement of this
juvenile work, and the proof of deep observation
which it manifested, were subjects of no small
praise at the time. But the quiet and humble
walks of the florist's garden were soon exchanged
for tlie bustle of the garrison, and at seventeen
Felix entered as a private into the military service
of (ieneva, in tlic mcmorabh' Ncai* IS I, 3. '^Pwo
years afterwards, lie was loomotcd to tin- rank of
eerjeant of artillery, and having raised himself to
nf)tic(' l»\ hi- fhcorf'tical and practical knowledge

1

44 MILITAHV CAUKEU.

of mathematics, lie continued to make this branch
of science his study during his continuance in
the army.

The wisdom of God, in the choice of his instru-
ments, was singularly exhibited, when he called
Neff to be a minister of his word, and sent him to
preach the Gospel to the rugged and half civilized
mountaineers of Dauphine. The work of a pastor
in the Alps, as NeflP expressed it, when he came
to have an experience of its duties and its difficul-
ties, resembles that of a missionary among the
savages. He had to teach them every thing. He
had to show them how to build a school room ;
how to use the line and plummet ; how to form
levels and inclined planes ; how to irrigate their
meadows, and to cultivate their barren soil, so as
to be the most productive.

A mere scholar from the university, even an
ardent preacher with the whole scheme of the
Gospel written in his heart, could not have ac-
complished what this extraordinary man did, who,
with his thorough knowledge of the Book of Life,
possessed also a stock of available information,
which was brought from the nursery-ground and
the camp.

Neflf was soon distinguished in the corps to
which he belonged, not only as an efficient sub-
officer, but as a devoted soldier of the cross. The
influence, however, which he hourly obtained
over his comrades excited a degree of jealousy

PROBATIONER FOR llOLV ORDERS. 45

among the superior officers which was far from
being honourable to them. They wished him out
of the se^^^ce ; he was too religious for them, and
after a few years the serious turn of his mind be-
came so marked, that he was advised to quit it,
and to prepare himself for holy orders.

During the mental struggles and the investi-
gation of his ow^n motives and spiritual condition,
which occupied him previously to that important
step, his frequent prayer for guidance and illu-
mination was to this effect. " Oh, my God,
whatever be thy nature, make me to know thy
truth ; and deign to manifest thyself in my heart."

After his supplications were heard, and he was
fully settled in his resolution to dedicate himself
to the work of the ministry, he quitted the army,
and placed himself under pious instruction and
superintendence, which gave a right direction to
his studies and reflections. He read the Bible
with earnest prayers to God, that he might so read
as to understand the Divine will ; and that he
might render every passage in Scripture familiar
to his mind, he made a concordance of his own,
and filled the margins of several copies of the Old
and New Testaments with remarks and memo-
randa. Some of these are still in possession of his
fricMid-, and an; Iidd in most affectionate estima-
tion, and are consulted as the voice of one wiio,
being dead, yet sj)eak(!th.

Those who had o|)porfunities of conversinii- willi

46 PROBATIONER IX)K 1I()I,Y ORDERS.

NeH" during' tliis season oi" solemn preparation,
relate that his powers of acquirement, and aptitude
for abstracted study, were very extraordinary. The
exercise of the memory gave him no trouble ; he
could repeat whole chapters from Scripture. His
conversation, at the same time, was agreeable and
easy ; he expressed himself with great readiness,
force, and accuracy; but though he spoke often,
and always correctly and to the point, yet it was
in short sentences, and in few words.

There is a practice in the Protestant churches
of Switzerland and France which is extremely
beneficial to candidates for ordination. The theo-
logical student, after having passed certain ex-
aminations, is received as a proposant into the
confidence of some of those who exercise the
pastoral office, and is employed as a lay-helper,
or catechist in their parishes. This custom is as
old as the Christian Church, it was the usage of
the primitive churches, and cannot but be of the
greatest improvement to the probationer. He is
acting under the eye of an experienced minister ;
he has an example and a teacher before him to
regulate his actions and opinions ; he is trying
his own strength, and feeling his way, and as-
suring himself of his preference and fitness for the
sacred work, before the irrevocable step is taken.
It is not too late to retire, if he finds himself in
any degree unequal to the arduous charge.

These probationers are not ])ermitted to put

PROBATIONER IN THE SWISS CANTONS. 47

their hands to the ark, and to pert'orm services
which are strictly sacerdotal, but they instruct
the young, and visit the sick, and even preach
from the pulpit, at the discretion of the pastor, in
whose parish they are thus making their advance
towards the ministry \

Nelf seems to have put on his spiritual armour,
and to have essayed to go in it, in the year 1819,
in the neighbourhood of Geneva, and in the two
following years in the cantons of Neufchatel,
Berne, and the Pays de Vaud. It was at a very
trying crisis, that he officiated in the character I
have described, in the latter canton. Lausanne
and many of the towns and villages of the Pays
de Vaud, were then divided by religious contro-
versies, which were carried on with much indis-
cretion and bitterness on both sides, but Neff
endeavoured to pursue a course which spoke well
for his Christian temper and wisdom, " The
Lord," said he, in one of his letters from Lausanne,

' " A system of probationary exercise upon a sj)iritual basis,
preparatory to ordination, would be a most (k'siral)le appendage
to our own National Establishment. In defeet of this advantage,
an interval more or less protracted, according to circumstances,
and spent in inspection, or initiation into the routine of the
Christian ministry, under the sujjerintendence of a judicious and
experienced pastor, might prove a commencing era of ministerial
usefulness. Opportunities would be afforded of learning, which
is the best j)reparation for teaching." — Scniion on Theological
Kducation. Hv Dr. Achtins.

48 PROBATIONER IN THE SWISS CANTONS.

^' has opened a wide door for the preaching of the
Gospel in this canton, which will not soon be shut,
provided that the preachers conduct themselves
witli prudence, and are cautious not to agitate
any question, which is of secondary importance
only, and which, without being directly necessary
to salvation, may excite suspicion that some
schism is intended."

CHAPTER II

Neff goes to France to officiate at Grenoble and Mens. — His
Observations on National Churches. — The Nature of his
Charge at Mens. — His Laborious Duties. — Remarks on the
Effects produced by Sacred Music. — Neff's Method tvith his
Catechumens.

It was in 1821, when Neff was in his twenty-fourth
year, that he first exchanged his native Switzer-
land for those wilder scenes in France, where the
rough places were made smooth, to his fervent
spirit, by the hope of being of some use to the
Protestants there, who were very ill provided with
clergv. He was not yet in orders, but in the
dearth of regularly appointed ministers, he had
been invited to the assistance of a pastor of Gre-
noble, in the same capacity as that which he had
held in some of the Swiss cantons, and having
remained at Grenoble about six months, his
services were requested at Mens, in the depart-
ment of the Isere, to supply, as far as might be
done, the place of an absent pastor. Here he
had many difficulties with whicli to contend.
He was a stranger, and an object of su.'^|)ici()n to
the local authorities. His office and functions
were but ill defined : tlic dialect of the country
people was a putois, oi' wliidi flic j-'rciicli --np-

E

50 NEFF AT MENS.

plied Imt very few terms : the tone of his piety
was too high for many of those whom it was his
dut}' to instrnct, and his sensitive mind was
severely wounded in the conflict between his high
sense of duty, and his belief that it might be ex-
pedient to make some allowances for the weak in
faith, to give milk to babes, and not to put new
wine into old bottles, but to relax in his demands
upon the self denial of those, who were unable to
give full proof of religious sincerity. " I often
retire to my chamber," he wrote to one of his
friends, " ill at rest, and greatly dissatisfied with
myself. I reproach myself on the one hand for
having betrayed my sacred trust, and on the other
hand for being a time-server, and afraid of press-
ing my opportunities."

In this letter he complained also of the cold and
heartless Christianity which prevailed around him,
in consequence of that rage for controversy, which
made men think more of other people's spiritual
condition than their own. One of the pastors,
under whom he was to act, seldom held any re-
ligious conversation with his flock, unless it was
to discuss the points of diff^erence between Protest-
ants and Roman Catholics. But this person soon
afterwards began to enter most warmly into all
Neff"s views, subdued by the sincerity and earn-
estness which he could not fail to discern in
him.

1 shall now begin to draw largely from the

OBSERVATIONS OX NATIONAL CHURCHES. ' 51

letters and journals of Neff ; and wherever he is
found to express his sentiments with freedom, the
language of his own private remarks, and of his
confidential communications, will be the best illus-
tration of his character and conduct. The follow-
ing letter shows, that his sanguine temperament
and burning zeal were under the constant control
of prudence and discretion. The letter was written
to one of his friends, who had scruples of remain-
ing in communion with the national church of
Geneva, at a time when many of its clergy had
avowed Socinian principles, but before it was so
deeply infected with error as it is at present.

" Mens, 11 Febnuiry, 1822.

" You ask my opinion as to the proposition
which is made, or about to be made, of admitting
members into your association without requiring
them to separate from the national church. You
ought to know my sentiments on this subject. I
am not aware of any passage in the Gospel, by
which a Christian is obliged to recognize, as a
church, a congregation which has no discipline,
and which does not even profess the essential doc-
trines of Christianity ; nor do I find that there is
any authority given to exact that all the brethren
should think alike, and surrender their right
of jjrivate judgment. Consequently, I maintain,
liiatthe Christian is at liberty to sej)arate, but that
lie is not obliged tf) (\n so, so loiig as the church,

i: 2

52 NEFFS onSKRVATIONS

to which he belongs, does not formally prevent his
seeking edification wherever he is likely to find it,
and that she does not openly profess opinions
which are anti-christian. On this principle, if
one aw^akened is anxious to form an union with the
children of God, but is at the same time desirous
of continuing his connexion with the national
church, either because he considers it an useful
institution, which every body ought to agree in
preserving, or because he thinks he should lose
his influence with certain persons, whose improve-
ment he is bent on promoting, and who would be
so shocked at his separation, as to refuse to listen
to him ; in short, whatever be his reasons, if they
be conscientious reasons, and founded on his con-
cern for souls, I do not think he ought to be re-
jected. I will explain myself more in detail. I have
said that national churches ought to be regarded
as useful institutions ; in fact, without them,
how would the knowledge of God and of Jesus
Christ have been preserved in many places, where
there have been no true Christians for many ages,
and where, according to the principle of your
separatists, there has been no church ? What
would have become of the Protestants of France ?
What would have become of those many families,
in different places, who have preserved the Bible,
and who have had family w^orship, and who have
been in the habit of meeting once a week, or not
so often, to hear the word of God ? To whom

ON NATIONAL CHURCHES. 53

would the missionaries be able to address them-
selves, and the evangelical pastors ? What would
have become of the churches, and of the Sabbath?
and where would have been the remembrance of
the death and resurrection of Jesus Christ 1 and
what would have become of the Bible, on the
knowledge of which all our instructions depend ?
and what would have become of the elements out
of which you must now form and restore a spiritual
and a living churcli, if the national churches had
not subsisted for the ordination of ministers, and
for the ministration of the sacraments ? And ao-ain,
if all these churches had not subsisted, what would
have become of those nominal Christians, whom
you cannot admit into the churches which are
really Christian ? What instruction would their
children have received ? what recollection would
have been preserved of the Gospel ? where would
have been the Bible Society ? In short, what would
have become of those elements, which are sus-
ceptible of life, and which, though too often dead,
have not ceased to be in the way of learning piety,
and of being prepared for the reception of the true
Gospel ? I am now stationed in a place, where 1
have better opportunities than most others of
forming a judgmcnit upon this subject, if then
every true Cliristiau in the visible churches liad
absolutely abandoned them (on your principle),
what would have bccom*^ of tbein ' W ho woidd
\\H\(' been left lo coiifciid a;^aiiisl iinbcliel" in the

54 OBSERVATIONS ON NATIONAL CHURCHES.

academies and in the consistories ? Who would
have preached the true Gospel in the churches,
where many go merely in compliance with custom,
and for nothing else ? Would they not have fallen
back again into paganism, and would not every
thing that savours of life and truth have been
totally lost ? It is necessary then, in my opinion,
at the same time that we recognize the right of
a Christian to separate, (and .it is often absolutely
expedient to do so,) to admit also, that there are
many strong reasons to induce a great number of
the children of God to remain in connexion with
the national church, so long as it does not com-
pel them to profess or to teach a lie, and that it
does not reject them from its bosom, because they
are in union with a more spiritual congregation.
Such are my opinions, and I should wish that you
would communicate them to our little flock, with
the assurance, that I must always regard it as the
duty of Christians to be in union with a true church,
that they may live under evangelical discipline.
I think nothing ought to be insisted upon, as to
name or form, but only as to the reality ; and I
not onW believe it to be essential, and enjoined
by the Lord, but I regard it as an invaluable
privilege to be in communion with such a flock,
which alone has the means of observing that rigid
discipline, in which true separation consists."

1 gather from his journals, that the system which

THE CATECHIST. 55

Neff pursued at this period of his career, (that is
to say, before he had consecrated himself to the
ministry, according to any regular form of ordi-
nation,) while he had as yet no pastoral charge,
was to collect as many young people as he could,
for purposes of religious instruction. These he
called catechumens. At the date of the above
mentioned letter, he had as many as eighty cate-
chumens; these soon encreased to ninety, the
greatest part of whom spoke only the patois of
the country, which was a dialect of the old Pro-
vencal language, and which he himself was obliged
to learn, before he could make himself well under-
stood \ There is no regular funeral service among
the French Protestants. To supply this defect,
when there was a death in a family, NefF used to
go to the house, where the body lay, and deliver
an exhortation, just before the assembled concourse
was ready to bear it to the grave. He also visited
the sick, and whenever it was known that he was
to be at the bed side of the afflicted, many of the
neighbours begged to be admitted, that they
might have the benefit of his exhortations. The
jju]j)if was ojjcu to liiiu very frequently. At one

' He assembled his catechumens four times a wci'k at liis
own lodgings, the girls twice, and the boys twice. He directed
them to come prepared with passages by heart, out of the New
Testament, and after tliesc had been repeated, he expounded
them to hi« young hearers in a manner tliat made a lively iin|)ri's-
sion upon their minds. Some were in the habit of attending these
catcche»i< il instructions from a distiince of uKjre than tiiree mileH.

56 VIZILI.E.

time he would preach from a text, at another
time he would select a chapter, and enlarge upon
it in the form of a lecture or paraphrase. He
found this latter mode of instruction to be par-
ticularly attractive and successful. The simple
peasants, who flocked into Mens from the neigh-
bouring villages, were grateful to hear a familiar
exposition of God's word, and to have an appli-
cation made to their own condition or wants, in
language which they had no difficulty in under-
standing.

Our indefatigable catechist did not confine his
labours to Mens, or to its immediate neighbour-
hood. Wherever his presence was required, there
he went, be the distance what it might. At this
time, and in this department, (that of the Isere,)
there were about 8000 Protestants, scattered over
a surface of about eighty miles square, with only
three regular pastors to look after them, one of
whom was now absent. When his visits were
paid in one direction, his services were required in
another, and nothing but a frame of iron could
have enabled a person of Neff"s zeal to encounter
the toil, which his reputation soon imposed upon
him. One of the districts, which he visited with
the greatest personal satisfaction to himself, was
that of Vizille. Its situation, on the banks of the
Romanche, one of the wildest mountain torrents
in France, with lofty mountains encircling it on
all sides, had great attractions for him. The place,
too, where his little flock was folded, had charms

VlZlLLli. 57

of a peculiar nature for his turn of mind. It was
a large hall in the gothic castle of the family of
Lesdioiiieres. The celebrated constable of France,
of that name, was the champion of the Huguenot
cause, in his youth ; but apostatized from it, in
old age, when antljition and cold worldly calcu-
lation oot the better of the more o-enerous feelinos
of his earlier days. The present possessor of the
castle, actuated by a better spirit, lent his fine
baronial hall, as a place of worship, to the Pro-
testants, and the congregations wdiich gathered
round Neff were so attentive to his lessons of piety,
that he always spoke of Vizille as his " dear
Vizille." But great as was his fatigue, being
constantly on the move from one remote quarter to
another, it was the sort of life that he preferred
before any charge, which would have kept him in
a comparative state of confinement. " A seden-
tary or a fixed life," said he, " has no pleasures for
me. I should not like to be constantly labouring
in one place : I would infinitely rather lead the
wandering life of a missionary." Thus, among
the diversities of gifts, and among the diflferences
of administration, l)y which the manifestation of
the Spirit is granted for men's profit withal, tlie
Almighty was pleased to raise up a teacher for the
natives of the l^cncli Alj)s, whose liabits and
tastes exactly suited tli»^ \v;iiiis df n j)«'(»|)lc, wlio
1 1 ad not the licin'fit of a MilHciciif siipjiK ol" rcsidciil
pa-tors.

58 VILLAGE EXCLUSIONS.

The following letters give an interesting de-
scription of one of his village tours, and of his
usual employment.

Mens, April 4, 1822.

" Yesterday, after the service, I went to Gui-
chardiere, a hamlet three miles from this place,
and 1 returned delighted with my excursion.
There are already many signs of the seed springing
up among my catechumens. I was lately accosted
by several peasant women, one of whom begged
me to give her a copy of the prayer, which I had
delivered on the previous Sunday, before my ser-
mon. I asked her name and residence, and told
her to come to me on the following Sunday. She
kept to her appointment, and I then gave her the
prayer, and with it a little tract containing the pa-
rable of the ten virgins , These interviews made me
desirous of knowing more of her, and I proposed
to accompany her some day to her own village.
Yesterday Elizabeth and I set out together for her
parents' cottage, and as we walked along, she told
me that many of the young women of the neigh-
bourhood met at appointed times to practise psalm-
singing, and to read the Bible. Upon reaching
the village where she lived, which is charmingly
situated in the midst of trees, at the foot of a high
mountain, and on the edge of a torrent, I was most
kindly received by her parents. They said they
could not themselves go to church, but that their
daughter always repeated to them that which she

VILLAGE EXCURSIONS. 59

had lieard. The old man recounted a history of
the persecutions which his own parents and him-
self had suffered, and he added, ' In those times
there was more zeal than there is now. My father
and mother used to cross mountains and forests by-
night, in the worst weather, and at the risk of their
lives, to be present at Divine service performed in
secret, but now we are grown lazy. Religious
freedom is the death blow to piety. ' He afterwards
talked to me of his unhappiness in having onl)'^ one
son left, a young man of eighteen, who was clever,
and blessed with a good memory, and had read the
Bible, and all the pious books in the house, but
who did not believe in the word of God. I read
some verses of the fifteenth of St. John, and ex-
plained them. These good people pressed me to
sta}' w4th them, but I had an engagement to be
present at a meeting at Mens, where my young
people were to practise psalm-singing, and could
only thank them for their kindness."

Ill another place, Neff has given this beautiful
description of two villages, where he had the satis-
faction of seeing much fruit come to perfection.
" These two lovely villages, which are at the foot of
Mont Chalet, in a little dell watered by a charming:
stream, tapestri(!d witli ricii Ncrdiirc ;iii(l shaded
by a grove of bcecli trees, liad often tempted me
to extend my walks from Mens in IH'J'J. Tiiey
seemed to be tlie peaceful retreat of true pietv, and

60 THE CATECHUMENS.

their humble, moss-clad cottages, appeared to offer
a natural tabernacle for the good shepherd, Jesus
Christ."

Mens, May 15, 1822.

" Far from having time to write letters, I some-
times can scarcely find time to take my meals.
May I say, with our Lord, ' My meat is to do the
will of him that sent me, and to finish his work.'
From before Easter I have been visitino- all the
hamlets and villages of the parish. I have held
meetings nearly in every one, at which there was
a good attendance after the labours of the day.
When I am in Mens, of an evening I always give
a catechetical lecture, or an exposition. Besides
this, I have called on all my catechumens in their
own communes. The sermons of an evening, and
particularly the paraphrastic explanations, are con-
stantly well attended. Out of seventy-seven cate-
chumens whom I have at present, more than thirty
are seriously inclined. Fifteen of those seem to be
more or less aware of their true condition, and four
or five have found peace in Jesus Christ. Since I
have been here, and especially of late, God has
given me a facility of expressing myself, an energy,
and a degree of boldness, at which I am myself
astonished, and which they certainly would not
endure in Switzerland. With respect to my health,
it is much stronger since I have been constantly on
the move and making long excursions, although
many of these are very fatiguing, for it often hap-

SACRED MUSIC. 61

pens that I go several leagues, and perform as many
as four or five services in one day, especially on
Sundays. I have not unfrequently been thus en-
gaged, instructing or conversing, from five o'clock
in the morning, till eleven at night, and all this
without any cough or ailment of the stomach : I
have recovered my appetite, and can drink wine at
my meals without any inconvenience."'

Neffs journals contain frequent mention of even-
ing hours spent in the exercise of sacred music
with his catechumens, and other young persons
whom he could persuade to attend his instruction
in this branch of knowledge. It will appear ex-
traordinary to those who have been accustomed to
think of France as the land of the dance and song,
and whose ideas of mountain amusements have
Ijeen formed by hearing airs which go under the
name of Savoyard and Provencal, to find our
catechist complaining, that the common people of
Mens, and the mountaineers of the neighbourhood
had not the least notion of music. " They do not
sing at all, neither well, nor ill, no, not even sono^s."
This was liis remark in 'one of his letters, and with
that intuitive knowledge of human nature, and of
the chords by whicli if i^ iiiovi'd, whicli so cniiiK'ntly
distinguished him, Ik* soon employed himself in
giving lessons in psalmody, which iiddcd very
substantially both to his own iuHuenee, and to fln^
numbers of those, who expressed a desire to enrol

62 SACRED MUSIC.

themselves in his little company of hearers and
learners. I annex his own description of the suc-
cessful effects of this device, to combine innocent
and rational entertainment with his more grave
instructions, and of the manner in which the time
thus spent was made to pass agreeably, by diversi-
fying the employment, and alternating the singing
lesson, and the scriptural lesson.

" Our sacred music meetings, both on Sundays,
and on other evenings, are always numerously
attended ; sometimes we count above a hundred,
and there would be more if we had room for them.
On these occasions we have a great deal of singing,
both to practise them in the psalm and hymn tunes,
and to preserve the inviting name of sacred music
meeting. We do it also to prolong the assembly
till a late hour in the evening, that they may not
be able to go to the dances \ The singing is fre-
quently interrupted either by Mr. Blanc (one of
the pastors of Mens,) or myself. Mr. Blanc ex-
plains some verses of the Bible, which bear upon
the verses of the hymn, or enlarges upon any sub-
ject which he thinks applicable. There is a sim-
plicity in his addresses, and often a cast of humour,
which is extremely engaging. Last Sunday even-

' One of NefF's most anxious objects was to put an end to
the Sunday games and dances which then prevailed, even
among the Protestants, in all parts of France, and he happily
succeeded in opening the eyes of many of his young catechu-
mens to the profaneness of the practice.

1

ANECDOTE. 63

iiig, perceiving some symptoms of inattention and
drowsiness in the party, while he was expounding
very seriously, he suddenly exclaimed, ' I see you
are tired of this, but before we conclude, I will
teach vou something new/ Every body was im-
mediately all attention. ' 1 will relate a fable to
you," he continued, ' a fable of La Fontaine.
There were an ant and a grasshopper living
near each other. The ant worked hard all the
summer to provide against the wants of the winter ;
but the grasshopper did nothing but enjoy herself
during the whole of the fine weather. When winter
came the idler found herself in very great distress,
and applied to her neighbour, the ant, for some
food. — What were you doing all the summer?
asked the ant. — 1 sung and danced, answered the
grasshopper. — Well then, sing and dance now,
said the ant.' When they heard this, a smile
ran through the room. ' Yes,' said Mr. Blanc,
* you may laugh now, but this fable is like the
parable of the ten virgins : and since the parables of
Clirist send you to sleep, I thought it necessary to
disguise them under a more attractive form. The
ant represents the wise virgins, and the grasshop-
per represents the foolish virgins. Like the grass-
hopper, the foolish virgins beg oil of the wise vir-
gins, but they refuse to give it, for fear of wanting
it themselves. Tlicn comes tlie bridegroom and
shuts the door, and wlien the foolisli virgins wish to
enfei-, lif sa\ - unto tliciii, ' vcrils- I say unto v'>u, I

C4 PSALMODY.

know you not. Wutcli, therefore, for ye know not,
neither the day, nor the hour, when the Son of
man cometh.' The tone, with which Mr. Blanc
delivered this, produced an irresistible effect."

In remarking" upon Neff's anxiety to promote
psalmody, I would observe, that the effect pro-
duced by the w^ords, or by the music, or by the
combination of the tw'o, is such, that the cultiva-
tion of psalmody has ever been earnestly recom-
mended Ijy those who are anxious to excite true
piety. Tradition, history, revelation, and experi-
ence, bear witness to the truth, that there is
nothing to which the natural feelings of man re-
spond more readily. Every nation, w^hose literary
remains have come down to us, appears to have
consecrated the first efforts of its muse to religion,
or rather all the first compositions in verse seem
to have <>rown out of devotional effusions. We
know^ that the book of Job, and others, the most
ancient of the Old Testament, contain rythmical
addresses to the Supreme Being. Many of the
Psalms were composed centuries before the time
of king David, and it is not extravagant to imagine,
that some of them may have been sung even to
Jubal's lyre, and w^ere handed down from patriarch
to patriarch by oral tradition. Nor did the fancy
of Milton take too bold a flight, when it pleased
itself w4th the idea that our first parents, taught
by the carols of the birds in the garden of Eden,
raised their voices in tuneful notes of praise to the

PSALMODY. 65

Creator of all, when they walked forth in the
cool of the day to meet their God before the fall.
But this is certain, that one of our Lords last
acts of social worship on earth was to sing a
hymn with his disciples. Few, therefore, can be
slow to understand, that if Christ and his dis-
ciples broke forth in holy song, immediately after
the solemnities of the Last Supper, and just before
the Shepherd was smitten, and the sheep were
scattered ; and if Paul and Silas sung praises unto
God in their prison-house, congregational worship
may always be the better for such helps. Add to
these examples, the apostolical exhortation to the
merry hearted to sing psalms, and the apostolical
descriptions of the choral strains which resound
in the courts of heaven, and we cannot but feel
certain, that the services of the Christian church
were cheered from the earliest times b}^ hymns and
psalms. " Those Nazarenes sing hymns to Christ,"
said Pliny, in contempt. We thank him for re-
cording the fact. The words of the Te Deum were
composed by a native of Gaul, (for the use pro-
bablv of one of the churches on the Rhone, or of
the Alps) aljout the third century; and at the same
period, men, women, youths of both sexes, and
even childnii joined in the psalmody of the sanc-
tiKirics, in such cordial and liaruioiiioits unison,
tliat a fatln-r of the <liiii( li lias well compared the
.sound to the loud, Imt not discordant, noise of
many wa\e- lMatiii<; against the sea shore.

F

66 PSALMODY.

At the time of the ret'ormation, sacred music,
which had begun to run wild, was brought back
to its first principles. The melodies of religious
worship were rendered more heart-touching, by
being set to words in the vernacular tongues,
which every body could understand. Luther's
hymn, " Great God, what do I hear and see"
led the waj^ Henry VIII. hated the German
reformer, and all that he did, but he burned to
rival him in every thing, and he gave a stimulus
to the public taste, by composing words and
music for the service of the English church. In
France, soon after the middle of the sixteenth
century, when it was doubtful whether the nation
would become Protestant or remain Roman Ca-
tholic, the pathetic tunes and devotional stanzas
of the reformers obtained so great an influence over
the minds of men, that the music of the temples,
as the Protestant sanctuaries were called, to dis-
tinguish them from the Roman Catholic churches,
became the fashionable melodies of the day.
This taste found its way even to the court, and to
the great alarm of the Romish party, some of the
sweetest and most stirring of the psalms, which
had been translated into French metre by Clement
Marot, were set to music by Lewis Guadimel, and
were constantly in the mouths not only of the
Protestant families of the provinces, but of the
ornaments of the saloons of Paris, and of the
palace of the Louvre. It is said to have been

PSALMODY. 67

quite astonishing how mucli this pious and simple
device found favour for the Protestant cause, and
induced people, who had never read Scripture
before, to search the hoi}' volume out of which
those treasures were drawn, which so charmed
their ears and their imagination. It is still the
practice in most of the mountain churches to make
sacred music a part of family devotion, and many
of the tunes which Guadimel composed with such
success are still sung to the praise of God. I can
bear witness to the forcible manner in which these
strains, rising to heaven from the lips of parents,
children and domestics, quicken piety, and stir
up tlie best affections of the heart towards God
and man. I have seen and felt the eff'ect pro-
duced by them in the humble dwelling of the vil-
lage pastor, where none but human voices swelled
the notes ; and in the chateau, where the harp
and the organ have mingled their fine sounds
with the well modulated tones of an accomplished
family of sons and daughters. My thoughts,
at tlie moment 1 am writing this, are at Chateau
Blonay, but most of the voices, whicli I heard
there, are now silent in death ! I am thoroughly
convinced tliat family worship, and congrega-
tional worslii]) lose a great auxiliary to piety,
when llici'c is not flic; ])owcr or file inclination to
join in psalmody.

Nefi' knew the linnjan heart . when he drter-
iiiiiH'd to ciiltiNatc a taste, lor sacred music among

I- 2

68 NEFF MISKEPRE8ENTED.

his Hock ; lie tclt assured, both from experience
and observation, that when impressive words are
set to expressive music, the effect produced can-
not but be both delightful and beneficial to those
v/ho take part in them.

The return of the pastor to Mens, whose place
Neff was appointed to supply in part, was not
favourable to the progress of improvement in that
neighbourhood. Having absented himself for a
longer period than the circumstances of his case
could justify, a question arose as to his re-instate-
ment. This produced some party feeling, and the
clergyman himself, jealous of Neff's influence, and
angry with the consistory for not permitting him
to resume his functions at once, raised a cabal
against the man, whose anxious object had been
to feed and to watch the flock during the shep-
herd's absence. The effect of his ungenerous
misrepresentations, and of the levity with which
he spoke of the catechist's rigid sentiments, was
more visible in the town of Mens than in the
neighbouring villages, and it wrung from Neff"s
wounded spirit a melancholy expression of regret
at the falling oft' of many, of whom he had had
better hopes.

But it is gratifying to be able to report of the
people generally, to whose instruction Neff" de-
voted so much of his time and anxiety, that they
were not insensible of his merits. The day of his
departure was a day of mourning to them, and

NEFF VINDICATED. 69

tlie testimony which M. Bhuic, the other pastor
of ]\Iens, bore to his character after his death, and
to the success of his labours, is highly honourable
to all parties.

Extract of a Letter from M. Blanc, pastor of
Mens, dated \st Dec. 1829.

" About five months after the arrival of M.
Neff at Mens, more than a hundred persons,
principally the heads of families, lamenting that
he was not appointed to the station of assistant
pastor, petitioned the consistory to retain him
under the designation of pastor-catechist, and
otl'ered to provide a stipend for him, as long as
they should have a farthing left. The consistory
nominated M. Felix Neff pastor-catechist on the
1st of June 1822. Every where, in Mens and its
environs, the name of our friend was never pro-
nounced but with respect; and there were few who
did not regard him as a saint, almost exempt from
sin. This was a subject of deep affliction to him,
because he saw that they attached themselves too
much to him personally, and too little to the
Saviour wliose servant he was. lie said to me
one day with deep feeling, ' They love me too
much ; they receive me with too mucli ])leasure ;
thc\' eul<)gi/.(.' inc too iiiiicli ; indeed tlie\' do not
know me. Diiriirj the space ol iie;ii"i\ two

V('ars, which he >\\r\{\ among- ns, In; did u pro-
iligious (jnantitv of good. Zeal lor reli«_iion re-

70 IMPROVRMENT AT MENS.

vived ; a great number of persons beg'an to tliink
seriously of the condition of their souls. The
Word of God was more sought after, and more
carefully read, the catechumens were better in-
structed in their Christian duties, and gave proofs
of it in their conduct : family worship was esta-
blished in many houses : the love of luxury, and
personal vanity decreased : almsgiving was more
generally practised, and the poor were not so
numerous. Schools were opened in different
places, and both in Mens, and in our neighbour-
ing villages, every body remarks a sensible im-
provement in the manners and industrious habits
of the Protestants. In short, the numberless
labours of Neff, his indefatigable activity, and
his instructions, will long be remembered at Mens,
and his sojournment among us will be recorded as
a sional blessins;."

Amiable and Christian-minded must be the
man, who thus bears witness to the labours of his
humble brother. Without any unworthy deroga-
tion, without the least shadow of envy, the pastor of
Mens attributes all the improvement produced in
his flock to the labours of a stranger ; of a coadju-
tor, whose office was nothing more than that of a
catechist ! Great reason had Neff", in his Journals
to speak of the singleness of heart, of the pure
religious motives which actuated M. Blanc. But
before we dismiss this part of Neff"s history, when
he was acquitting himself so well as a proposant.

SPIRITUAL CONFLICT. 71

or probalioiicr, in tlic ample field, to which he
returned after a short absence, in the character of
a regular pastor, it will more fully illustrate the
resources of his mind, and explain the mode of
treatment w^hich he adopted with his catechu-
mens, if I select one of the many sketches which
his Journal contains.

" You will, perhaps, remember," said he, in a
letter to one of his friends, "■ that in the notice of
my first lecture at Mens, I spoke of a daughter of
my host, named Emily, one of my catechumens,
as being very intelligent, but at the same time
extremely devoted to the pleasures of the world.
She used to be at every frivolous amusement.
Upon one occasion, having understood that she
meant to perform a part in a comedy, I signified
mv displeasure so plainly, that she gave up her
design ; but 1 perceived that it was sorely against
her real inclination. While she regularly attended
all our private and public services, and particularly
our evening meetings, her whole heart was with
the world. Her li})s only gave confession of the
trutli. Tilings were in tliis state with her when
she heard my sermon on Good Friday. She was
struck by these words, which 1 repeated more than
once : * Go to Golgotlia, and tlieie yoii will see
how odious sin istoCiod?' V^v i1m* first time
she und(;rstood, in th(! sufferings of our Lonl. the
terrible demunds of the holy law of God. in \\ui
l>itterness and anguish of lier soul, >\n' ^lied many

72 SPIRITUAL CONFLICT.

tears during the service, and her heart was on fire
when she left the church. During the whole of
the day her uneasiness increased, though she did
all she could to give another turn to her thoughts.
She cursed the hour when she had asked God to
give her a knowledge of her heart. She continued
in this state without disclosing her feelings to any
body till the Tuesday morning afterwards. It was
in vain that I endeavoured to find an opportunity
of speaking to her. She avoided me. Her parents
and friends tortured themselves to divine the cause
of her disquietude. At last, on the Tuesday morn-
ing, I made her search for some passages in my
Testament, and in turning over the leaves she
found the text on which I had preached. Mat. v.
20. ' It is too true,' said she, ' that our righteous-
ness does not surpass that of the Scribes and
Pharisees : it is even less than theirs.'

" 'And St. Paul says,' I rejoined, ' that no
flesh shall be justified by the works of the law.'

" Upon this she made many objections to the
doctrine, not being able to understand how we are
excited to good works by it.

" I then read to her the passage in St. Paul's
Epistle to Titus, and I reminded her of the exam-
ple of true Christians who are rich in good works,
although they do not attribute any merit to them.
I explained to her the motives of love and grati-
tude, which incline them to obedience, and to a
renouncement of the world.

SPIRITUAL CONFLICT. 73

*' ' Do you think, 'added I, ' that they, who have
such sentiments as these, can find any pleasure
in the things of the workl ? '

" 'No,' said she, ' but I do.'

" I then endeavoured to make her perceive how
the consideration of the truths of the Gospel ought
to make us serious.

" ' It does not make me serious ! ' she exclaimed,
bursting into tears.

" ' I return thanks to God for the disposition in
which I now find you, for those who weep shall be
comforted. Be of good cheer, there is a Com-
forter. He, whom Jesus Christ promised to his
disciples, will be sent to you also.'

" ' His disciples did his will, but as for me, I do
it not, and I have never done it.'

" ' His disciples did not only do his will, they
believed.'

" ' Yes, and I do not believe.'

" ' They did not believe as much as they ought,
for Jesus reproached them with not having faith
as big as a grain of mustard seed. But they did
as you ought to do : they asked the Lord to in-
crease their faitli.'

** ' But tli(;y, at that time, had a little, and 1
have none at all.'

" Here her tears burst fortli anain, and all that
I said aj)peared to have no eiiect upon her. She
continued ;ill day in such a melancholy mood as
to alarm in r jjarents. She could scarcely utter

74 spiRrn'Aj- conflict.

a word ; she avoided company, and ate scarcely
any thing.

'' The next morning she tohl me that she was
in the same frame of mind, and when I urged
her to tell me what it was which so afflicted her,
she exclaimed, sobbing, ' I am too proud, I never
can be saved.' 1 assured her that I was rejoiced
to find that she had attained this knowledge of
her own heart, and then I opened before her all
the treasures of the mercy of God in Jesus Christ.
But she persevered in objecting the excess of her
pride and vanit}'. She could not believe in the
glad tidings, she could not believe that her prayers
would be heard.

" ' Poor Emily, you are very unhappy at pre-
sent, but your sadness shall be turned into joy.
The Lord will comfort j'ou.'

" ' But if I should die in this condition ? '

" ' Be not afraid ; I am as sure as I am of my
own existence, that God does not light the candle
and take the broom, to leave the piece of silver in
the dust. He wdll finish the work which he has
begun in you. He wdll call j-ou to himself, after
he has purified you.'

*' It was in vain that I endeavoured to console
her by such discourse as this ; I could not succeed,
and I left her with these words. ' My dear Emily,
I am very sorry to have to quit you at this moment,
but I leave you in the hands of the Lord, who
will comfort you better than I can. Go to him

1

SPIRITUAL CONFLICT. 75

\vitli perfect confidence. I recommend you to ac-
quaint your mother with the cause of your distress,
in order to remove any unpleasant suspicion.' I
then parted with her, and went to La Mure, where
I preached at one o'clock, and in the evening- I
slept at La Baume, near the Drac, where I held
a numerous meeting in the house of the mayor of
the commune. All the inhabitants of this little
village are Protestants ; and not one of them staid
at home, even mothers attended with children at
the breast, for in the memory of man, there had
never been any preaching performed in this place,
which is very remote from any road, and has no
church near it. The next morning I set out at a
very early hour, the maj^or accompanied me as far
as the Drac, and I ascended the mountain towards
St. Jean d'Heran, to visit a sick person. He was
a wicked old man, who had all his life boasted of
his irreligion, but the fear of death had softened
him. I found him in full possession of his intellect,
although he was very near his end. I read to him,
and I explained to him the parable of the labourers
in the vinevard, and dwelt upon those wlio were
liircd at the eleventh hour. He listened, and then
made some objections. He did not appear to be
persuiMlrd. J |)i-;i\«'(l witli liim. and llicii took my
leave, after having addresse< I liim witli ^rcat earn-
estness, and I lioj)(! witli affection. I do not know,
whether llie Lord, wlio came five or six lioiirs
afterwards, found liini elotlied witli tin; while

76 THE PENITENT.

garment, or naked. 1 also visited another sick per-
son, whom 1 found much better disposed, and then
returned to Mens, to receive my catechumens.
In the course of my excursion I did not forget
Emily. At one time I felt rejoiced, and blessed
God for his dispensation of mercy to her. At
another time I was afraid lest this sudden awaken-
ing should produce bad effects, especially if her
anguish of mind should continue, and effect her
health, which is but feeble even now.

*' In the midst of these reflections I arrived at
home, fearing to find Emily in her bed, and her
parents miserable, but I found her full of joy.
* Oh how happy I am,' she exclaimed, the mo-
ment she saw me. ' You have not left me in the
hands of a severe judge. How gracious the
Lord has been ! Oh ! he is rightly called the
Saviour : — but what agony ! what sufferings ! Oh !
what he must have suffered ! He who drank the
cup of bitterness even to the dregs. Now I un-
derstand what he meant to say, when he ex-
claimed, ' My soul is full of heaviness, even unto
death.' I should never have done, if I were to
endeavour to transcribe all the expressions of
gratitude and admiration, which poured from her
mouth : from that mouth, which heretofore had
been full of the attractions of the world. Not
only was her language new, but her air and
aspect were changed. The vain and self-import-
ant deportment had now given way to modesty

THE PENITENT. 77

and sweetness. It was no long-er the same Emily,
My first movement was natnrally to bless the
Father of Mercies and the Saviour of Sinners."

The reader will be glad to know that the im-
provement, which had been now going on for a
week, and which had been assisted so judiciously,
and with so much tenderness and supplication by
her pious instructor, continued until she began to
bring forth the fruits of a holy life, and that she
remained a faithful servant of her God and Re-
deemer.

As an accompaniment to the method used by
Neff of gently leading on those, who were slow^ to
approach the Lord, I subjoin his account of the
language he was wont to hold with those, who
appeared to be declining from their devout resolu-
tions. " After having been awakened, D

seemed to be on the point of relapsing into her
former state. I asked her, what will become of
the soul which neglects the means of grace, after
having received them. ' It w^ill fall into condemn-
ation,' said she, in a faint voice. ' You ought,'
said I to lier, ' to know something of this by expe-
rience ;' and then I spoke to her of her defection,
niid oi" the fate wliicli awaits the branch which
does not abide in tlic vine. Yesterday, at the
evening catechising. I pnrsiicd a similar course
with I., . Slic had rcjjcatcd tlio verse con-
taining thos(; words oi.Iesus, — ' Even tlie Spirit of
Truth, wliicli the world cannot receive, because it

78 Tin: relapsed.

south liiin not, ncitluT kiioNvetli him, for lie dwell-
etli with you, and sludl be with you '.' After she
had explained Mdiat is meant by the habitation of
the Spirit, I asked her if that Spirit was given for
a time only ?

" ' No,' said she, ' He is to abide witli us for
ever ^'

" ' But if this Spirit will not depart of himself,
may we not lose him V

" She had great difficulty in making any reply.
At length she answered in a low voice, and witli
tears in her eyes, ' Yes,'

" ' Yes,' replied I calml}^, but with considerable
emphasis, ' and you are a proof of it. The Lord
has enlightened you with his Spirit. You have
been made sensil)le of the weight of your sins ;
and the time was, when you found rest at the feet
of the Redeemer. You have known him. You
had his seal set upon you, and now you have
fallen back again into a state of spiritual death.
You have only preserved the form of Christianity,
by which you may more easily deceive the chil-
dren of God ! But beware ! Woe unto him by
whom the Son of man is betrayed !' — This apos-
trophe had a striking effect upon L , and all

who listened to it."

One of Neff's Journals contains these interest-
ing remarks upon the village of La Baume.

' John xiv. 17. " Vcr. 16.

LA BAUME. 79

" For nine months I have made frequent visits to
tliis place, but I have been heard without oppo-
sition, and witliout producing any positive good.
The mayor has received me with perfect frank-
ness, and the whole population have listened to
me attentively. Lately, however, I have perceived
something like signs of life in three or four young
persons. At my last visit, when I had finished
my exposition and my prayer, instead of going
away, as they had hitherto done, at the termina-
tion of the service, all the people kept their seats,
and remained silent. Full of real concern for
these poor creatures, I rested my head upon my
hands, and offered up a secret prayer to God in
their behalf. They thought I was taken ill, and
many anxious inquiries were put to me. I lifted
up my head, and said, ' I am not ill, my friends,
but I am distressed on your account. I am
thinking that most of you have already forgotten
tliut whitli you have just heard, and it is this
whicli grieves me.' "

CHAPTER 111.

Kejfs difficidties as to Ordinalion — His reasons for not being
ordained hif the Gcneixin Clergy — Goes to I'ln gland for his
diploma — His return to France and reception at Mens — His
nomination as Pastor of the High Alps — His first visits to the
mountain hamlets of his jmrish.

Neff had now made sufficient proof of his incli-
nation and powers. He had discharged the duties
of a probationer and catechist for more tlian four
years, and in the course of this ministry, first in
his native country, and next in one of the pro-
vinces of France, he found, by happy experience,
that God had given him both strength and wil-
lingness to do his work. He, therefore, took his
departure from Mens, in April 1823, with tlie
intention of seeking for the imposition of hands,
and of devoting himself to the service of the
church by a solemn act of consecration. He
believed himself to be called, and tried, and he
humbly hoped, that he possessed such qualities as
were requisite for the responsible station, which
he was desirous to fill.

The great difficulty, however, was this. By
whom should he be ordained ? By the authorities
of the National Cliurch of Geneva, the land of

THE CHURCH OF GENEVA. 81

his birtli ! But these had avowed principles from
which his soul shrunk : and he felt a strong-
reluctance to derive authority to preach the
Gospel from those who, in his opinion, had be-
trayed the Gospel, by ceasing to uphold the
divinity of Jesus Christ, and the essential doc-
trines of the Book of Life. Should he present
himself before those seceding pastors of Geneva,
who had separated from the national church, and
who declared themselves the members of a new
church ? A reference to Neff "s letter, on the sub-
ject of national establishments, will show that he
was likely to have scruples here, and that he was
unwilling to take any step, which could be re-
garded as inconsistent with his declared opinions
on the subject of disorganization. He could not
wish, by any act of his, to be impairing the
maintenance of the church in w^hich he himself
had been baptized, wdiicli had once been the in-
strument of much good, and might again, by a
reformation within itself, become as illustrious for
its orthodoxy, as it then was for its learning.

For further explanation of Neff 's unwillingness
to l>e ordaini'd by tlie hands of ministers of the
establislied church of his native country, I must
hrrc ofler a few statements, touching tlie departure
of" tliat cliui-cli IVoiii its aiiciciit |)riiici|»Ic-. l'\)r
K€*\<Tal \car> pa-l, a-piiMl. li<»lilc totlic riiiida-
nn'Utal doctrines S('ttlc(l at llic period ot tlie lie-
forniatioii, and sanctioned by tlie subscription of

(j

82 THE cTirRcii or geneva.

names illustrious in the ecclesiastical history of
Geneva, such as Farel, Calvin, Viret, and Beza,
has been openly avowed by many of the national
pastors. Even the cardinal article of the Christian
creed, the divinity of Jesus Christ, which the
most distino-uished confessors of every branch of
the universal Church have agreed in receiving,
from the apostolic times to our own, has been
disputed, and the belief of WiclifT, Huss, Luther,
and Fenelon, has been publicly controverted from
the theological chair of the academy of Geneva.
In 1817, the venerable company of pastors took
upon themselves to declare, that the following
subjects were not to be discussed in the pulpits,
viz.

" The Divinity of Jesus Christ."
" Original Sin."
" The Operation of Grace."
" Predestination."
From this period the departure from apostolical
Christianity has been so undisguised, that out of
twenty-two recent elections to pastoral charges,
there has been but one minister elected, who has
ventured to preach the divinity of Christ. Under
such circumstances, it is not to be wondered that
Neff felt scruples of conscience, and could not
consent to receive ordination in a church, in which
it was prohibited to enlarge upon the great mystery
of godliness, God manifest in the flesh. Within
a few months, some of the brightest ornaments

THE CHURCH OF GENEVA. 83

of the establishment, who have all along refused
to be silent upon the prohibited topics, have been
deprived of their functions, because they formed
the committee of an association, which determined
at last to take measures for the revival of the
ancient principles of their church, and to institute
a school of theology, in w^hich those principles
shall be taught. The association has declared its
strict adherence to the doctrines, which the Pro-
testant churches of Holland, England, Scotland,
France, Germany, and Italy, profess with one
accord, in their respective articles of faith.

I subjoin the contents of a paper lately circulated
by the Rev. Richard Burgess, the English chap-
lain at Geneva, in which the lamentable falling
off of the Geneva church and academy, and the
views of the association are ably stated.

" Tlie decline of the orthodox faith in the
' national church ' of Geneva, and the consequent
deterioration in the religious instruction of youth,
have, for several years, been subjects of painful
interest to the friends of the Protestant cause in
Eurojx'. Hitherto, however, they have remained
almost passive spectators of the conflict whicli has
been carried on between the Unitarian principles of
the great hodv ol" ilu; clergy and a few individuals
among them, wlio ' have earnestly contended for
tlu' faith once (h-livcrcd to the saints :' for the
priiifi])h'S of tli(? ' nalioiiai cliurc li," allliough evi-
dently to l>e trac(.'d in every act ol its constituent

a 2

84 THE " SOCIETE EVANCjELIQUe" OF GENEVA.

l)0(ly, were not openly avowed, and tlic formal
abolition of all creeds kept many persons in doubt
as to the real doctrines of the majority of the clergy.
At length, a series of publications, emanating
from the professor of divinity and other influential
members of the ecclesiastical body, have placed
the doctrines of that majority in a graduated scale
of heterodoxy between Arianism and Socinianism.
It then became imperative for such of the clerical
and lay members of the ' national church ' as re-
tained and cherished the true doctrines, and who
conscientiously felt that to be silent any longer
were to betray the sacred cause of the Gospel, to
form a religious union for their edification, whilst
they might maintain their principles and dissemi-
nate them amongst their fellow -citizens. A society,
called the Societe Evangclique, was accordingly
formed, and in a very short time received an ac-
cession of more than two hundred members. The
committee of the society is composed of three
ministers of distinguished zeal and piety, and
several laymen of rank and consideration as citi-
zens and as Christians, ' strong in the grace that
is in Christ Jesus. ' The great object of the Societe
Evangclique is to restore the true and orthodox
doctrines of the Gospel (which, through a vain
philosophy, have been so long lost) to the Genevan
church, and one of the most effectual means for
accomplishing this end is the establishment of a
theological academy, to train up young men for

NEW THEOLOGICAL ACADEMY OF GENEVA. S5

the ministry in sonnd and ortliodox principles.
This institution has ah'eady been set on foot ; the
professors engaged are men of distinguished talent,
expressing their firm adherence to the doctrines
contained in the articles of the church of England
and the Helvetic confession of faith."

The three members, to whom Mr. Burgess
alludes, Messrs. Gaussen, Merle d'Aubigny, and
Galland, were ejected from the church of Geneva,
by an act of consistory, dated 11 th October, 1831,
and confirmed by the council of state. The al-
ledged ofience was the following passage in their
circular.

" We have said that this school was indis-
pensable ; and it is but too easy to prove the fact.
If the youths who go to the academies of France
and Geneva to qualify themselves for the ministry
of the Word of Life, are there taught the Unitarian
doctrines : — if the very truths, for the sake of
whicli our professorships were founded, our schools
opened, and our institutions formed, are there
condemned : — if the studies in tliose schools are
not free, that is to say, if tlie pupils attached to
the faitli of tlie apostles and refornuirs are not at
liberty to follow the instructions which correspond
with their faith and satisfy their (consciences : —
if pious parents, desirous of devotinn tlicir sons to
tli«' iiiiiii-frv oi" tlic ( lospcl, arc coiniicllcd lo coii-
denin llirni to consuiiic the luiir best years of their
voutb ill -litdic-' wbicli -iilixcil tin- foiiiKbilioii-' of

S6 NEW TIIEOLOCJICAL ACADEMY OF GENEVA.

our faith : — in a word, if it be true that Arianism
saps the very foundations of the Gospel, — then
assuredly the establishment of a new school of
theology was indispensable.

" In thus saying, we are but stating a fact well
known to the Church of Christ. Indeed, those
who teach the new doctrines in the theological
chairs, have themselves proclaimed it in recent
publications ; and, while we appreciate the can-
dour which has at length brought to light such
an evil, we consider it to be obligatory on all
Christians, not only to desire, but to labour assi-
duously to provide a remedy.

" If, then, we have presumed to propose a
remedy, it is because it behoved some one to offer
it : and if we entertain the persuasion that God
will take this work into his all-powerful hands, it
is because it is his own cause, and not ours."

Neff's eyes, in his reluctance to be ordained by
clerg}^ holding doubtful opinions, Avould next be
turned to the Protestant Church of France, and
as he had been a humble Levite in her temples,
and hoped yet to serve before her altars, it must
have been his devout wish, to receive orders under
her sanction. But he was a foreigner, and with-
out the process of naturalization, it was not then
easy, perhaps not practicable, to be admitted into
her bosom.

One door only seemed to be open to him.
To go to England, where his name and merits

NEFl- IN LONDON. 87

had been made known through the means, origi-
nally, of the Continental Society I believe, and
of Mr. Cook, and Mr. Wilks, two eminent dis-
senting ministers ; and to ask for a public recog-
nition as a devoted servant of God, in one of
those independent congregations, whose minis-
ters are received in the Protestant churches of
France, as duly authorized to preach the word of
God, and to fulfil all the duties of the pastoral
office.

Neff had no other mode of satisfying his con-
science, and of assuming the functions of a minis-
ter " lawfully called,"' according to the regula-
tions of the country where he looked forward to
pursue his professional career. He therefore pro-
ceeded to London in the beginning of May, and
without being acquainted with a single word of
the English language, we find the catechist of
the mountains embarking on board a steam-boat
at Calais, landing at Dover half dead with sea-
sickness, consigning himself to the chances of a
night-coach, and arriving in the metropolis on a
Sunday morning, with no other aid to help him
tlirougli the mazes of a city, (whicli is more em-
barrassing to a strant;er than anv other capital in
Europe,) tlian ;i (lircclion lo the lioiisc of Mr.
Wilks. Aftc)- |)ii/,/.lin<j,' out bis \\:iv lo liis IVicnds

aljodf. jll(l<_iC wliiil liiii-t li;i\(' been Ilis tol'lol-n
r<M*Hn<'" MixHi lf;irnin<'' lb;it Mr. W ill\> \\;is nol at
bouK', and tbal nobods' in ibf lioiisc could speak

88 NEFl" IN LONDON.

French, Soiuuliow or other the intelligent stran-
ger, after many questions put to such passengers
as, he hoped, might be able to reply to him in a
language he could understand, got a clue, through
the labyrinth of streets and lanes, to a French
Chapel, where, he calculated, that, as it was Sun-
day, he should find somel)ody who could hold in-
tercourse with him, and put him in the train of
profiting by his letters of introduction. The ex-
cellent Mr. Scholl was the preacher at the chapel
upon this occasion, and to him NeflP addressed
himself after the service with the modest request,
that he would direct him to an hotel where
French was spoken. The wanderer's delight
must have been excessive, when Mr. Scholl
kindly accosted him by name, and told him that
he was aware of the errand upon which he had
come, and that every thing should be done to pro-
mote his views. He was placed in comfortable
lodgings, and on the return of Mr. Wilks he was
introduced by that gentleman to the ministers
who were to receive him into their body. But
though he received every attention from his new
friends, during the interval that elapsed before
the puljlic ceremony which brought him to Eng-
land, yet one or two only could hold conversation
with him, and his time hung heavily on his hands.
" My visits," said he in one of his letters, " are
very insipid, I cannot talk English, nor they
French, and the sooner I can get away, the hap-

A THEOLOGICAL EXAMINATION. 89

pier 1 shall be ; but I will remain as long as I can
be forming connections, which may prove useful
in promoting the reign of Christ in France."

It was on the 19th of May, 1823, that Neff, to
use his own terms, " received a diploma in Latin,
signed by nine ministers, of whom three were
doctors in Theology, and one was a master of
arts, and was ordained in a chapel in the Poultry
in London."

The questions proposed to him, in examination,
were : —

How do vou know that you have been called by
God ? '

What is it which has induced you to devote
yourself to the ministry ?

What are the doctrines which you regard as es-
sentials ?

To the two first he gave answers, of which the
following: is the substance. " I have embraced
the vocation of a minister of the Gospel, because
the Sovereign Bishop of Souls has implanted an
ardent desire in me to preach the Gospel, and be-
cause, whenever 1 have directed my thoughts to
otlier professions, I have felt my conscience bur-
tlieued, and a secret voice has commanded me
to announce the kingdom of (lod. Because God
has been pleased to ]>]<■>> my labours, and many
souls have already Ijeeii brouglit to a know lc(|g«> of
the Word, wliich he has permitted me to declare in
his name : because he lias graciously opened

90 neff's confession of faith.

many doors to me, and in tlic course of the last
two years I have been invited many times, by
consistories and churches, so that I shall not enter
the vineyard of myself, and without a lawful
calling."

To the third question, he replied : — " I do not
pretend to penetrate into the secret of God, nor to
explain how or why evil entered into the world :
but I know that it exists, and that it dwells in our
hearts ; that we carry it with us from our birth,
and that, excited by tlie example of the world,
and the influence of Satan, it reigns in our souls,
and makes us bring forth evil fruits to our con-
demnation. I believe that in this state man is
neither capable nor worthy of having any part in
the kingdom of God, but that he deserves the
Divine wrath, according to the justice of the Most
High. I believe that there does not exist in our-
selves, or in any created being, the means of es-
caping from this state of perdition, but that God,
loving us when we were his enemies, has sent into
the world the Eternal Word, by which he made
all things, and that this Word dwelt among
us, under the name of Jesus, which signifies
the Saviour. I believe that this Saviour is our
righteousness and redemption, and that his death
and atonement have appeased the wrath of God.
I believe that the true faith consists in being
thoroughly convinced of, and deeply affected by,
our state of corruption, and of the justice of our

neff's confession of faith. 91

condemuatioii — in putting our whole trust in the
sufferings of Jesus Christ, — and in the righteous-
ness which is through Him and of Him. I be-
lieve that we are not saved because we love God,
but that we may love him, and that if we are
saved by faith without the works of the law, we
are created again in Jesus Christ to do the good
works for which God has prepared us. I believe
that, in order to answer this object of our Saviour,
it is absolutely necessary that he should write his
law in our hearts. I believe that a change of
heart is the result of true faith.

" After these principal points, I believe that we
ought, in the course of our instructions, 1. To
convince men of their guilt by all scriptural and
reasonable means : 2. To conduct them to Jesus :
3. To ena:ao;e them to read and meditate on the
word of God, and to pray for them that know not
the truth. I believe that we ought to announce
Jesus Christ and him crucified, without entering
into unedifying discussions on points of doctrine
contested among- Christians. I believe that it is
the duty of a good steward to give to each the
nourishment wliich lie requires, milk to l)abes and
strong meat to men. Finally, I subscribe, both
ill matter of faitli and practice, to the confessions
of fjiitli ot" flu; reformed (liurches of France and
Swit/erlainl, in the which I was born, and to
whicli I desire to dedicate tiie services of my
iniiiistrv. '

92 NEFF RETURNS TO DAUPHINE.

Neff lost no time in returning to France, and
to the scene of his first labours in that country :
but his journey to England had nearly been the
means of defeating all his hopes and plans. He
was represented to the French government as an
agent of England, and when he presented him-
self before the prefect of the department of the
Isere at Grenoble, to meet any charge that might
be made against him, that functionary candidly
told him, that the minister of the interior had re-
ceived information, that all the preachers not
French, and more especially those who had re-
ligious connections out of the kingdom, were in
the pay of England, and were charged with some
political mission. The prefect was at the same
time polite and kind in his manner, and strongly
advised Neff to take up letters of naturalization, as
the best answer to the calumny, and the only way
of securing his object in regard to a pastoral ap-
pointment.

The reception which the Protestants of Mens
gave to their former catechist, on his re-appear-
ing among them, would have been felt like a
triumphal entrance to any but a person of his
gentle and unassuming spirit. They left their
shops and their husbandry work to meet him.
They crowded round him, some half-stifled him
in their embraces, others kissed his hand, others
wept with joy, and all signified the sincerity of
their affection and respect. When he called upon

HIS RECEPTION THERE. 93

his acquaintances in the villages, similar testi-
monies of veneration were displayed.

At St. Jean d'Heran, he was obliged to repress
the out-bursting of delight with which he was
welcomed. His approach had been announced
by somebody who ran before to give the joyful
intelligence, '" he is coming," and on drawing
near the village, he saw the bottom of the little
hill, on which it stands, full of people, who were
waiting to greet him. With his usual prudence
and good sense, he foresaw that an unfavourable
construction might be put upon these public indi-
cations of esteem, and he begged one of his friends
to go forward, and to request that the honest vil-
lagers would return to their houses, where he
would visit them successively, and receive their
cordial assurances of affection. For eight days,
previously to his arrival, the inhabitants of St.
Jean d'Heran had been anxiously expecting him,
and its population had turned out more than once
to hail his approach.

But the cabals, of which some mention has
been made in a preceding page, rendered it unad-
visable for Neff to remain either in Mens or its
iiiiiiK.'diate neighbourhood. The principal inha-
bitants of St. Sebastian presented a requisition,
in wliicli tliey urged liim to accept tlie office of
pastor in tliat commune, and un(h.'rtook to raise
his sahiry among themselves, but he declined
their generous oflers, for the same reasons tliat

i)4 THE DEPARTMENT OF THE HIGH ALPS.

induced him to remove himself from Mens. Per-
haps it was no great act of self-denial to make up
his mind to quit the department of the Isere, for
though his affections were strongly fixed there,
yet his anxious desire to be at the post, where
he could most effectually be of use, made him
frequentl}^ turn a longing eye towards the section
of the High Alps. " I am always dreaming of
the High Alps," said he in a letter of the 8th Sept.
1823, " and I would rather be stationed there
than in the places which are under the beautiful
sky of Languedoc. In the higher Alpine region
I shall be the only pastor, and therefore more at
liberty. In the south, I should be embarrassed
by the presence and conflicting opinions of other
pastors. With respect to the description which
B — has given of those mountains, it may be correct
as to some places, but still the country bears a
strong resemblance to the Alps of Switzerland.
It has its advantages and even its beauties. If
there are wolves and chamois, there are also cattle
and pasturages and glaciers, and picturesque spots,
and above all an energetic race of people, intelli-
gent, active, hardy, and patient under fatigue,
who offer a better soil for the Gospel, than the
wealthy and corrupt inhabitants of the plains of
the south."

At length his ardent wishes were gratified, and
while he was staying at Grenoble, in October,
1823, he received intelligence that the elders of

NEFF ELECTED PASTOR OF THE HIGH ALPS. 95

the Protestant cliiirclies of Val Qiieyras and Val
Fressiniere had made application to the Consistory
in his behalf, and that he might shortly expect to
receive his appointment from the president. " To-
morrow," says the last sentence of one of his jour-
nals, " with the blessing of God I mean to push
for the Alps by the sombre and picturesque valley
of Loysan." Within a few days after the first news
of his intended destination, the impatient minister
was on the scene of his future labours, exploring
hamlet after hamlet, and forming plans for his
conduct in that sacred office, which had so long
been the subject of his hopes, and pra^^ers, and
hourl}' contemplation. To Fressiniere he first di-
rected his steps, next to Guillestre, where he met
the elders of Val Queyras, and was hailed as their
pastor elect. From Guillestre he lost no time in
traversingthe formidable pass that leads to Arvueux.
Here all his enthusiasm was called into action by
officiating in a church, which had recently been
constructed on the ruins of that which was de-
stroyed at the revocation of the edict of Nantes.
At La Chalp, a hamlet of Arvieux, they showed
liini a new cottage, which was just finished for
thf residence of the expected minister, and
four leagues further to tlu^ east, he found himself
at San Veraii, on tlic frontiers of France and
Italy, and at flic foot of a snowy ri(l;j,(', win'cli
was th«' boundary line hctwccn flic Frcncli Alpine
vallcvs. and those of I'ieniont ; l)iif here he shall

1

96 THE MOUNTAIN PARISH.

speak tor liiinselt", in a letter dated Guillestre, Oct.
31, 1823.

'' I have only had a transient view of the
churches of Qiieyras and Fressiniere, l)ut they
seem to be extremely interesting. I do not think
that all the Protestants together, in this section,
would amount to more than 600 or 700, and they
are divided into six groups, and are at a great
distance from each other. In summer these dis-
tances are less, because you can cross the mountains ;
but in the winter you are obliged to follow the
valleys, which greatly lengthen the journey. The
country nearer to Brian^on is cold, and Queyras
much more so, but there are some agreeable
situations. La Chalp, in particular, where the
pastor is to reside, faces the south, and is within
a vast amphitheatre of mountains, where there is
good milk, and excellent meat. The bread and
the wine are brought from Brian^on, or Guillestre.
Besides his habitation, they supply their pastor
with fuel."

But before our candidate, for the most arduous
piece of ecclesiastical preferment in Christendom,
could be established in his mountain parish,
there were many preliminary steps which he had
to take. He must receive his diploma from the
consistory of Orpierre, and his naturalization from
the office of the minister in Paris ; and these
doubts frequently crossed his anxious mind. Would
the president of the consistory sanction the election

NEFF S LETTER TO HIS MOTHHR. 97

of the elders of the parish .' Woukl the minister
of the interior confirm it ? Would the keeper of
tlie seals grant liim letters of naturalization ?
Would he not be obliged to make many an ex-
cursion to Orpierre, and even to undertake an
expensive and weary journey to Paris, to press his
suit, and perhaps to repeat this more than once ?
Still he travelled on in hope, and resolved, until
all the formalities could be settled, to take charge
of these churches provisionally, and to run the risk
of receiWng the government stipend or not, as it
might happen. In fact, some of the necessary
forms never were regularly obtained ; but the con-
sistory, and the elders, and the inhabitants of the
communes were so well satisfied that the churches
could not be better served, than by this active and
right-minded foreigner, that Ijysome management,
wliich the higher authorities winked at, he re-
mained in undisturbed possession of his cure of
souls ; but I have not been able to ascertain,
whether or not he received the government stipend,
or whether he drew from the funds of the Conti-
nental Society only for his subsistence'.

A letter to his mother, written on the lOtli of
December, 1823, gives a lovely ])icture of the
cheerful and ener<jretic state of his mind, at this

' Since the above was written I liave been informed, tliat
Neff did not receive the government stipend, but tliat his salary
from the Continental Society, of about AO/. a year, was his
principal, if not his sole maintenance.

H

98 neff's first visit to his alpine churches.

period, and contains some touches in it, which re-
mind us botli of patriarchal times, and of the apos-
toh'cal era of Christianity, when the messengers
of the Gospel sallied forth with their scrips and
their staves, preaching- as they went, that the
kingdom of heaven was at hand ; and when they
were received into the houses of the faithful as
angels of God, and were ministered unto with all
the hospitality and attention of primitive sim-
plicity.

" Since my last letter, I have been constantly
on foot to the present hour. After having made
several visits to my Alpine hamlets, I received a
note from Blanc, which urged me to take the
letters of the elders of Queyras and Fressiniere to
Orpierre, and to lay them before the president of
the consistory. I crossed the Col d'Orsiere (pro-
bably from Gap) on the 27th of November, and
went to our friend Eloi Cordier, who gave me an
introduction to the president. On Saturda}^, the
29th, I was at Fressiniere, when the elders added
their signatures to those of the principal people of
Queyras, and M. Barridon fortified my testimo-
nials with the letter, which Professor Bonnard had
written to him concerning me. On Sunday, the
30th, I preached at Dormilleuse, the remotest
village in the valley, and on Monday morning, at
day-break, I set out to pass the Col d'Orsiere
again, which separates Fressiniere from Champ-
saur, a valley through which the Drac flows. I

THE COL d'oRSIERE. 99

took two guides with me, to assist in the passage
of the mountain, which is one of the highest in
France, and very seldom practicable at this time
of the year. After leaving the village of Dormil-
leuse, we walked three hours througli snow, some
of which had lately fallen, at the foot of a glacier,
and incessantly on the ascent. The sky was
clear, and the cold not excessive, although the
elevation was so great. In many places the snow
was hard, but in some we sunk above our knees.
The peasants had protected my feet with slips of
woollen cloth tied round my shoes, and we were
well provided with provisions and good wine for
the journey. Since the first fall of snow this
season, which took place in September, only two
men had effected the passage of the mountain.
We could occasionally track their path, wliich
also showed the foot-marks of wolves and chamois,
and of some marmot-catchers. When we reached
the summit of the Col, we had two hours of rapid
descent before we amved at the foot of the snow-
line, where we entered the first handet of the Val
dOrsiere, near tlie source of the Drac. Here we
dined, and mv pfuides took their leave. I con-
tinued inv route along the Drac until nightfall,
when I I'ortunately came upon tlie higli road l)e-
tween (iaj) and (^Jrenoble. The next morning, at
the dawn of lin;lit, I nsninod my journey, and
where do you tliink 1 turned my stc'j)s ( Can you
pncBS ? Towards Mens ! (This was in the direc-

n 'J

100 VISIT TO MENS.

tioii the very reverse of Orpierre, but Neff 's affec-
tionate yearnings after his beloved catechumens
in that quarter were irresistible.) It was my wish
to induce Blanc to fulfil his promise, and to accom-
pany me to Orpierre. I walked for five or six
hours on the hioh road, and then havino; crossed
the Drac, I took to the bye-paths, and towards
sunset I arrived at Peyre, at the foot of Mont
Chetel, about three quarters of a league from
Mens. Paul, the uncle of Peter Baulme, was
working near the village, and as soon as he per-
ceived me, he left his cart, and ran to meet me.
Nothing could exceed his surprise or joy. I
then went to Baulme's house. Peter's father and
mother, and several of the neighbours were in tlie
garden ; they did not perceive me till I was in
the midst of them. Their astonishment was as
great as that of Paul. The wife of the elder
Girard, who happened to be there, ran to call
her husband — another person went in search of
Peter Baulme, who was looking after the sheep.
After supper, a party of the neighbours assembled
at Baulme's house, and I discoursed for a long
time on the kinodom of God. Our conversation
was in the patois. At ten o'clock at night, I
proceeded on to Mens, accompanied bj^ Peter
Baulme and the elder Desloix. I did not wish
to arrive during the day, for fear of the eclat.
The door of Pelissiers house was closed for the
night. Tlie next day I had visitors in abundance.

VISIT TO MENS AND ORPIERRE. 101

Never did the arrival of a beloved father, who
had been long* absent from his family and long
expected, produce greater joy. For myself,
although I am not easily affected, yet I could not
suppress certain strong emotions, on finding my-
self once more amono- these dear friends and dear
children. Poor Madame Bonnet, my former
hostess, on hearing of my arrival, was seized with
her old complaint, and was confined to her bed
till mv departure. Her temperament would never
allow her to bear any great excitement. It was
determined that Blanc and 1 should go to Orpierre
next day, Thursday ; but in the morning I found
myself unwell. These frequent and long journeys
had knocked me up. I took a warm bath, and
found myself the better for it. Notwithstanding
this delav, we meant to have set out the same
day, but so much was said to Blanc, that he
agreed to stop till the following morning. I,
therefore, performed the Thursday service. A
large congregation was present, although the
country people had not been apprized of my
arrival. In the evening 1 held a meeting of our
l)rethr(*ii at the Jiouse of Louis Pagen, and at a
later hour 1 iield a meeting of our sisters at that
of Madame DiiseigiKMir. I meant to liave j)ro-
cecd('<l f)ii foot, but llic kind laiiiiK ol" l^dis^icr
insisted oil jiiidinu :t |ioii\ loi* me ; and at Miiirise,
with IManc bv iiiv si<i<'. mounted on a large grey
horse, we were on the road for ( )rpiei-i"e.

102 VIslT TO iMENS AND ORPIERUE.

The interviews with the prefect and with M.
D'Ahlcbert, the president of the consistory of
Orpierre, were satisfactory, and we have now to
contemplate Neff in a new character, as an autho-
rized pastor of the department of the High Alps.

CHAPTER IV.

Description of the department of the High Alps — Restitution of
Protestant rights — Organization of Reformed Churches of
France — Nature and extent of Neff's pastoral charge —
Henry Oberlin — Description of the Vallej/s of Fressiniere and
Queyras, and of Neff's parish — The pass of the Guil — Neff
at Arvieux, and in his presbytery at La Chalp. — His pro-
gress through his parish — San Veran — Pierre Grosse — Fous-
sillarde — The Pastor s manifold duties — Neff's winter journey
to Fal Fressiniere — Palons — The Rimasse — Dormillcnse —
Neff's description of Dormilleuse, and of the condition in
which he found the remains of the j^rimitive Christians there —
His perilous labours there.

Having now brought Neff to his land of promise,
and placed him in that sphere of action so suitable
to his character, it is necessaiy to fill up the out-
line which I have sketched in the introduction,
and to delineate the locality and condition of the
group of Protestant villages, which constituted his
pastoral charge.

The department of tlic High Alps is so called,
{"njin its beiiie: within the rej^ion of that branch of
the Alps wliich separates France from Italy. The
two h)ftiest mountains, on this part of the chain,
are Mont Cicnevre and Mont Viso. 'I'Ik- latter is
one of flie most conspicuous in I'lnrope, from its
elevation and bri«j,lit sno\v\' aspect and conical
form. It rises as high as 13,000 lect above the

104 FRENCH IMIUTESTANTS.

level of the sea, and there being no gigantic pin-
nacle in the neighl)ourhood which rears his head
to the same heiglit as Mont Visoj it appears to be
exalted to tlie very sky, and to leave all the other
summits in the plains below. As the eye is
directed towards Mont Genevre on the left, and
towards Mont Viso on the right hand, from Gap,
we will say, wliich is nearly the centre of the
department, it ranges over a succession of jagged
peaks and icy ridges, which seem to be utterly
inaccessible to the foot of man. But in the
gorges of these mountains, there are spots which
the necessities of man have rendered habitable.
These, as I have shown in my preliminary re-
marks, have been the asylum of families, who
have suffered oppression for conscience sake at all
periods of persecution, from the persecutions of
Marcus Aurelian in the second century, to those
of Louis XIV. and Louis XV. In the year 1786,
the successor of these monarchs published an act
of toleration, and for the first time since the revo-
cation of the edict of Nantes (a century before),
Christians, who were hot Roman Catholics, were
permitted to worship God in public without
molestation. But so little intercourse did the in-
habitants of this remote and secluded quarter hold
with the rest of the world, that I was assured by
an aged Protestant of San Veran, a French village,
at the foot of Mont Viso, that he and his family
did not hear of it till four years after. And many

RESTITUTION OF 1>1U)TESTANT RIGHTS. 105

years subsequently to tliis, the Protestants of the
department had no other opportunity of receiving
the consolations of religion, according to the ordi-
nances of the Church, than that which was afforded
them by the precarious visits of the Vaudois minis-
ters from the Italian side of the Alps. During
the hundred years of persecution from 1686 to
1786, and up to the period of the establishment
of a native ministry, these services had been cheer-
fully rendered by the pastors of the valleys of Pie-
mont, as often as they could ; but the distance
and the danger (while it was at the risk of the
heaviest personal penalty' to perform these duties,)
rendered them necessarily few and far between. At
leno'th the consular s-overnment of France, in the
year 1802', conferred privileges on the members of
the reformed religion, which })roved a new era
for Protestantism. The Protestant churches were
so far put on a level with the Roman Catholic
cliurches, that they were to have an organization
sanctioned by the state, and their pastors were to

' The French reformed church, therefore, after the year 1802,
became a national, legalized, establislied ehurcli, governed ])y
its own laws, and at liberty to follow its own movements. Its
ministers were recognized, protected, and paid l)y government,
but still in a certain degree the regulations, according to which
it was to entitle itself to its privileges, fettered it. After the
restoration of the Bcjurbons, a jealous court took care to have
it tied fast to rule, and by the technical obstacles whicii were
thrown in the way of organization and church Imilding, retarded
the progress of Protestantism.

lOG ORGANIZATION OF PHo'l'KSTAN'r CHURCH.

receive sti}3eiuls from the public treasury. But
at the same time, it was enacted, that these privi-
leges could be enjoyed under certain regulations
only. The principal of these were : —

That none but Frenchmen should exercise the
ministerial functions.

That no pastoral appointment should take place,
except under the seal of a local consistory, and
with the sanction of the government.

That a consistory should consist of not less than
6000 souls of the same communion, and might be
divided into sections.

That each consistory might have a certain num-
ber of pastors — (six, the greatest number,) and
that this number should not be augmented without
the express permission of government.

That where a consistory had not been established,
and there were Protestants enough to constitute
one, the heads of twenty-five of the principal
families might proceed to carry their wishes into
effect, by a requisition to the prefect or sub-pre-
fect.

That the discipline of the churches, thus organ-
ized, should be the same as that of the reformed
churches of France previously to the revocation of
the edict of Nantes, and that there should be no
change in the discipline, without the authority of
government.

That the amount of stipend to be allotted to
each pastor should depend upon the population of

NEFFS PARISH. 107

the coiiimune wherein the pastor should officiate,
and that 3000 francs should be the highest, and
1200 francs the lowest amount of stipend.

That a house, or presbytery, and garden, might
be provided for the pastor, at the expense of the
commune, in addition to his stipend.

That the expense of building and repairing
churches and presbyteries, should be defrayed by
the commune, according to a fixed assessment.

That all persons born in foreign countries, who
are descended from Frenchmen or Frenchwomen,
exiles on account of their religion, may obtain the
rights of French subjects, on fixing their residence
in France, and taking the oath of allegiance.

The Protestants of the department of the High
Alps were not able to establish a consistory till the
year 1805, and though the department is eighty-
four miles in lengtli, and fifty-seven in breadth, it
has never had but two ecclesiastical sections, or
divisions, since the restitution of Protestant rights,
to which pastors have been appointed, viz. those of
Orpierre and Arvieux. The section of Arvieux (so
called because the presbytery is in the commune of
Arvieux,) is nearest to the frontier of Italy, and
spreads over two civil divisions or arrondisse-
ments, — the arrondissement of Embrun, and the
anoudissement of Brian(^f)n. This constituted the
ixirlsk of Neff : it consisted of seventeen or eighteen
villages, occujjving an extent of sixty miles, taken
ill a straigiit gcograpliical line from east to west,

108 IIENIIY OBLRLIN.

but nearly eiglitv miles must be traversed through
the windings of the mountains, in the journey from
one extreme point to the other. Up to the time
when Nefl' took charge of this laborious parish,
there had been no regularly appointed and resi-
dent minister for any length of time together. It
had been occasionally served by the pastor of
Orpierre, and at one period a son of Oberlin had
taken charge of it for a few months. Every thing
connected with the name of Oberlin, the celebrated
pastor of the Ban de la Roche, is so precious, that
it will be a matter of painful interest to the reader
to know, that this son of his, Henry, of w4iom
mention is here made, fell a sacrifice to his exer-
tions amons: the Protestants in the south of France.
His dying moments form a beautiful episode in
the memoirs of Oberlin, which I gratefully transfer
to these pages.

" The immediate occasion of Henry's death was
supposed to arise from a cold, which he took in
assisting to extinguish a fire that had broke out in
the night in a town on his route, as he was making,
in 1816, a circuit of 1800 miles in the s^outh
of France, with a view to inspect the state of the
Protestant churches, and to ascertain the means
of supplying them with the Holy Scriptures. The
fatigue attending the remainder of the journey,
added to the seeds of incipient disease, so shat-
tered his constitution, that soon after arriving in
his native valley, he was induced to remove to

HENRY OBERLIN. 109

Rothau, instead of remaiiiiiig- at Waldbacli, in
order to receive the benefit of his brother Charles's
advice, who, in addition to his clerical functions,
was a medical practitioner. On perceiving, liow-
ever, that the complaint rapidly gained ground,
he desired, with the greatest resignation and com-
posure, to be conveyed home again to Iiis father's
house, that he might die there. So universally
was Oberlin beloved, tliat his parishioners seized
every opportunity of proving their attachment to
him and his family, and on this occasion a truly
afi'ecting scene presented itself. No sooner was
Henry's request made known in the village, than
twelve peasants immediately presented themselves
at the parsonage-house, and offered to carry him
upon a litter to Waldbach, which is about six
miles distant from Rothau. He could not, how-
ever, bear exposure to the open air, and it was
therefore found expedient to place him in a
covered cart, but as it slowly proceeded through
the valley, the faithful peasants walked before it,
carefully removing every stone, that the beloved
invalid miglit experience as little inconvenience
as ])o>sil)l(i from jolting over the rough roads.

A few weeks after his airi\ al under the paternal
roof, his life, wliidi Iiad promised such extensive
uscfidness, drew near its close. Faith min«iled
with pious resignation to tlu; will of his licavcnU-
I'atlicr, who \\a< tints early pleased to call him
to liiiiiself, wa> strikingly exhibited in his last

1 10 THE VALLKY OF QUEYRAS.

moiiK'iits, and on the 16th of Nov. 1817, without
a struggle or sigh, he sweetly slept in Jesus."

For want of a regular pastor, the people of Vals
Fressiniere and Queyras used to assemble on
Sundays in the churches and oratories, of whicli
there were six of the former, and two of the latter,
and some one or other read the service. Such
was the general situation and the condition of the
parish which NefF undertook to serve, and in
which he first made trial of his strength in the
winter season. But before I proceed with my
narrative, I wdll run over the names and relative
positions of the several villages, inhabited by
Neff's scattered flock, reserving the description of
them till 1 accompany him to those scenes of his
arduous duties.

The valley of Queyras (which communicates
directl}^ with tlie Protestant valleys of Piemont
by the pass of the Col de la Croix), extending
from the foot of Mont Viso to Mont Dauphin,
along the whole length of the river Guil, and com-
prising the glens which follow the course of the
mountain torrents which roll into the Guil, forms
the eastern quarter of the section of Arvieux. The
Protestant families dwell principally in the com-
mune of Arvieux, and its hamlets La Chalp and
Brunichard, and in the commune of Molines,
and its hamlets San Veran, Pierre Grosse and
Fousillarde. They have a church at Arvieux,
one at San Veran, and another at Fousillarde. The

1

EXTENT OF KEFf's CHARGE. Ill

distance between the churches of Arvieux and San
Veran is not less than twelve miles. The western
quarter of the section consists pf the valley of Fres-
siniere, and its hamlets Chancelas, Palons, Violins,
Minsas, and Dormilleuse, which occupy the
banks of a torrent that pours its waters into the
Durance, half way between Brian^on and Em-
brun : and of the commune of Champsaur, sepa-
rated from the valley of Fressiniere by a mountain
and glacier. ' In the valley of Fressiniere, there
are two Protestant churches, those of Violins and
Dprmilleuse ; and in the commune of Champsaur,
there is a church at St. Laurent. Sixty miles
nearly of rugged road must be trodden, before
the pastor, whose residence is at La Chalp, beyond
Arvieux, can perform his duties at Champsaur.
But besides these two principal groups of Protes-
tant villagres, there are two outlvili"* branches of
the section, that of Vars, which is eight miles
south of Guillestre, or twenty from Arvieux, and
that of La Grave, wliicli is beyond Brian^on, and
twenty-one miles north ofGuillestre, or thirty-three
miles from the ministers presbytery. Suppose,
then, that the pastor has fixed his abode at the
house \shich is provided for him at La Chalp, in
tlie conmiune of vVrvieux, lie. lias a jouriicv of
twelve miles before he can reach the scene of liis
labours in a western direction, and sixty before he
can arrive at it in the opposite (piaiter. lie has
alw) a distance of twenty miles towards the soutli,

11"2 ALPINE SCENERY.

and tliirty-thrcG towards the north, when his
services are required by the little flocks at Vars
and La Grave. A man of Netf's zeal could not
but sink under the weight of such a burthen.
And who does not glorify God on reflecting, that
if the seeds of real piety could spring up in this
rugged ground, it is only to the protecting culture
of the Great Sower, that any production can be
ascribed ! There is a twofold lesson to be learnt
in following the steps of a pastor through these
wilds. It is well that we should see, how hard
some of our brethren work, and how hard they
live ; and that we should discover, to our humili-
ation, that it is not always where there is the
greatest company of preachers, that the word
takes deepest root.

There is this difference between the vallej^s of
Piemont, and those of Fressiniere and Queyras.
The former are for the most part smiling with
verdure and foliage, the latter are dark and sterile.
In each, alp rises above alp, and piles of rock
of appalling aspect block up many of the defiles,
and utterly forbid any further advance to the
boldest adventurer. But the Italian valleys are so
beautifully diversified by green meadows and rich
corn fields, and thick foliage of forest and fruit
trees, that the eye is perpetually relieved and de-
lighted. Add to these the herds of cattle in the
pasturages, and the innumeral)le flocks of goats
and sheep browsing upon the mountain sides, and

THE PASS OF THE GUIL. 113

skipping' from rock to rock, and you have an
animated picture of life and enjoyment which
cannot be surpassed. The Piemontese valleys
form a garden, with deserts as it were in view :
some of them indeed are barren and repulsive, but
these are exceptions. On the contrary, in the
Alpine retreats of the French Protestants, fertility
is the exception, and barrenness the common
aspect. There the tottering cliffs, the sombre and
frowning rocks, which, from their fatiguing con-
tinuity, look like a mournful veil, which is never
to be raised, and the tremendous abysses, and
the comfortless cottages, and the ever present
dangers, from avalanches, and thick mists and
clouds, proclaim that this is a land which man
never would have chosen, even for his hiding-
place, but from the direst necessity.

NefTs Journal has noted the 16th of January,
1824, as the day on which he arrived at Arvieux,
to take possession of the hal^tation provided for
the pastor of the district. I have stated in more
places than one, that a taste for magnificent
scenery formed a strong feature in his character,
and it never couhl liavc been more gratified tlian
on his journey from Gup, through Guillestre to his
new abode. The road from the latter is by the
pass of tin; riuil, mikI in the w liole range oi" Al|)iiie
Bcenery, rich ;i> it i- in the wdiidcrs dl nutiirc,
then; is notliing iikhc tcrrildy sublime lliaii lliis
mountain j)atli. A liaveUer would be aiii|ilv re-

I

114 THE PASS OF TIIC GUIL.

paid in visiting this region, for the sole })urpose of
exploring a defile, which in fact is one of the keys
to France, on the Italian frontier, and is therefore
guarded at one end by the strong works of Mont
Dauphin, and at the other by the fortress of
Chateau Queyras, whose guns sweep the entrance
of the pass. For several miles the waters of the
Guil occupy the whole breadth of the defile, which
is more like a chasm, or a vast rent in the mountain,
than a ravine, and the path, which in places will
not admit more than two to walk side by side, is
hewn out of the rocks. These rise to such a
giddy height, tliat the soaring pinnacles, which
crown them, look like the fine points of masonry-
work on the summit of a cathedral : meantime
the projecting masses, that overhang the wayfar-
ing man's head, are more stupendous, and more
menacing than the imagination can conceive.
Many of these seem to be hanging by you know
not what, and to be ready to fall at the least con-
cussion.

duos super atra silex jamjam lapsura, caclentique
Imminet assimilis.

Perhaps they have been so suspended for centuries,
and will so continue for centuries to come ; but be
that as it may, enormous fragments are frequently
rolling down, and as the wind roars through the
gloomy defile, and threatens to sweep you into the
torrent below, you wonder what power it is which

THE PASS OF THE GUIL. 115

holds together the terrifying; suspensions, and pre-
vents your being crushed by their fall. Much
has been related of the peril of traversing a pass on
the summit of a mountain, with a precipice yawning
beneath your feet ; but in fact there is no danger
equal to a journey through a defile like this, when
you are at the bottom of the Alpine gulf, with
hundreds of feet of crumbling rock above j'our
head. But terribly magnificent as this pass is,
and though it must at other times have made a
powerful impression on Neif 's mind, his journal
does not contain a word either of its grandeur or
its terrors. He forced his way through it in the
middle of January, when it is notoriously unsafe
to attempt the passage. Several travellers lose
their lives here almost every year ; but our pas-
tor's anxiety to be at his post of duty was the
strongest feeling that moved him, and he thought
of nothino; but the field of usefulness which was
now before him.

On issuing out of the depths of the defile, the
fro^^^ling battlements of Chateau Queyras, l)uilt on
a lofty projecting cliff", on the edge of the torrent,
and Ijacked by the barrier wall of Alps, which at
this season of the year towers like a bulwark of
ice between the dominions of France, and the king
of Sardinia, present a picfiirc of the ludst strik-
ing magnificence. Every thing combines to give
an interest to the scene. In the; far distance are
the snowv peak< of Mont Viso, of da/./.linu: wliito,

I '2

116 ARVIKUX.

and, in tlic foregronnd, tlic rnstic aqneducts,
composed in tlie simplest manner of wooden
troughs, supported on lofty scaffolding, and cross-
ing and recrossing the narrow valley, which form
a striking contrast between the durability of the
works of God's hands, the everlasting mountains,
and tlie perishable devices of men. About a mile
and a half, on the Guillestre side, from Chateau
Queyras, a rough patli, on the left, conducts to
Arvieux : and here a different prospect opens to
the view. The signs of cultivation and of man's
presence increase : some pretty vales, and snug
looking cottages please the eye ; and in one spot
a frail but picturesque foot-bridge of pines care-
lessly thrown across a chasm, invites the stranger
to approach and inspect it. He is almost appalled
to find himself on the brink of an abyss, many
fathoms deep, at the bottom of which a body of
water foams and chafes, which has forced itself a
passage through the living rock. The narrow-
ness and depth of this chasm, and the extraor-
dinary manner in which it is concealed from ob-
servation, till you are close to it, form one of the
greatest natural curiosities in a province which
abounds in objects of the same sort.

Neff followed the custom of those who directed
him to his pastoral dwelling-place, and called it
Arvieux in his journals. It is not, however,
situated in the principal village of the commune
so called, but at La Chalp, a small hamlet beyond.

THE PASTORS HOUSE. 117

The church is at Arvieiix, but the minister's resi-
dence is, with the majority of the Protestant popu-
lation, higher up the valley ; for in this glen, as
in all the others where the remains of the primi-
tiv^e Christians still exist, they are invariably found
to have crept up to the furthest habitable part of
it. In the Valley of Fressiniere, the Protestants,
in like manner, have penetrated to the edge of the
glacier, where they were most likely to remain
unmolested ; and again, in the commune of Mo-
lines, Grosse Pierre, and Fousillarde, are at the
very furthest point of vegetation, and there is
nothing fit for mortal to take refuge in, between
San Veran and the eternal snows which mantle
the pinnacles of Mont Viso.

In the page which records his arrival at the
humble white cottage, which had been recently
prepared for the pastor, in La Chalp, Neff has not
inserted any observation about the comforts or
conveniences of the habitation designed for his
future dwelling place. It is a small low building,
without any thing to distinguish it but its white
front; such at least was its aspect when I saw
it ; but there was an air of cheerfulness in its
situation, facing the south, and standing in a warm
sunny spot, which contrasted strongly with the
dismal li<)\tl.- of Donnilleuse, where he afterwards
spent most of tlie winti-r months. It is most pro-
bubh.' tliat h(.' found it totally devoid of every thing
which administers to comfort, beyond locality, for

118 LA CHALP AND BRUNICHARD.

a ineiiioraiiduiii, ^vl•itten a few days after his arrival,
mentions his having made a journey to Guillestre,
for the purchase of some household utensils. Once
for all, therefore, I may remark, that the reader,
whose notions of the happiness of a pastor's life
have been formed in the smiling parsonage, or
snug manse, or who has considered it as deriving
its enjoyment from a state of blissful repose and
peacefulness, has widely erred from the mark in
Neff's case. His happiness was to be busily em-
ployed in bringing souls to God : he seems not
to have set the slightest value on any of the com-
forts of a home : or, if he valued them, to have
sacrificed them cheerfully to his sense of duty.
One of the principal charms in the recital of a
good clergyman's life, is the character of the clergy-
man at home. But NefF had none of the comforts
of this life to cheer him. No family endearments
welcomed him to a peaceful fireside after the toils
of the day : nothing of earthly softness smoothed
his seat or his pillow. His was a career of anxiety,
unmitigated and unconsoled by any thing but
a sense of duties performed, and of acceptance with
God. The commune of Arvieux, and the cheer-
ful hamlets of La Chalp and Brunichard, were
the brightest spots in his extensive parish ; but they
were not the fairest to his eye, for he complains in
several of his letters, that the people there were
spoilt by the advantages of their situation, and
were by no means so well inclined to profit by his

LA CHALP AND BRUNICHAKD. 119

instructions, as the inliabitants of less favoured
spots.

The natives of Arvieux itself are almost all Roman
Catholics, those of La Chalp and Brunichard are,
for the most part, Protestants. There were eight
families in the former, and eighteen in the latter,
who waited on Neff's ministry ; and two families
in a small hamlet between Arvieux and Chateau
Queyras, were converted from the Romish to the
Protestant faith, b)^ the force of his reasoning, and
the consistency of his holy life. His gentle spirit
had no relish for that kind of controversy, whose
object is the mere triumph over an adversary by
the force of argument ; and his success among the
members of the other church, which was far greater
than was ever known before in the different quar-
ters where he explained the word of God, pro-
ceeded, in a great measure, from the mild and
affectionate manner in which he directed their
attention to the only name in whom, and through
whom, they might receive health and salvation.
The impression which he left behind him, even in
this quarter, wlicrc he thought that lie did not per-
ceive the most abundant fruits of his ministry, con-
tinued to be discerned when I visited Arvieux in
1829, in the amicable relation wliich still subsisted
between the Roman Catholics and l^rotestants of
the commune. Th<; kindest iut«jrchaijgc of friendly
and charitable ofHc(; took |)lHce between them ;

120 A SNOW STORM.

the children of the two churches went to the same
schools, and read the Bible together, without
interruption ; and a young man, who would not
quit my side for a whole day, when he found that
I took an interest in his late venerated pastor,
spoke of the Cure as a kind good man, whom
every body respected.

It was on Friday, the 16tli of January, 1824, that
Neff established himself at La Chalp, as the pastor
of the section of Arvieux ; on the Monday following
we find him, a second time within four days,
encountering the fearful pass of the Guil, and on
the evening of the same day looking after his little
flock at Vars, twenty miles from Arvieux. He
remained at Vars on the Tuesday, and part of Wed-
nesday, organizing little associations for mutual
instruction during his absence. On Thursday and
Friday in the same week, he was at his post again
at Arvieux, La Chalp, and Brunicliard, catechis-
ing the children, and making himself acquainted
with his people ; and on Saturday, in spite of a
fall of snow, and a storm of wind which swept the
valley, he directed his steps towards San Veran,
that he might take the earliest opportunity of ad-
ministering the public Sunday service in the
church, which was situated in the farthest western
boundary of his parish, twelve miles from his head-
quarters.

" The snow," says his journal, " was from

SAN VERAN. 121

seven to ten inches deep, and the wind, which blew
a hurricane, raised and tossed it about in clouds.
Not a trace could be seen of the paths, and I was
six hours performing twelve miles. But this was
the only bad journe}'^ that I have yet made in the
Alps, and notwithstanding the exposure, I arrived
perfectly well at San Veran, and held a meeting in
the evening. The next day I preached in the
church, catechised in the afternoon, and assembled
some willing hearers around me in the evening,
whom I addressed on the one thing needful, so
tliat I did not lose a single hour in this commune,
during my stay there. It is the highest, and con-
sequently ^ the most pious callage in the Valley of
QuejTas ; in fact, it is said to be the most elevated
in Europe, and it is a provincial saying, relating
to the mountain of San Veran, ' La piu alta ou Ti
mindgent pan,' i. e. it is the highest spot where
bread is eaten. The air is sharp, but though it was
the 25th of Januar}'^, the weather was so fine that
the snow melted on the ground as it does in April.
There are about twenty-three Protestant families
here. The men are intelligent, well read in scrip-
ture, and very anxious to converse on spiritual
su})jects. Some of the women are the same, but
lur the most part the females are ignorant, and eon-
fined ill tlicir notions. llii'ou<j,Ii llie whole of this
countrv. I Iijinc been niueii nratilled h\ my e.\-

' A Kimilar obHcrvatioii was made to lue by more than one
VaudoiH pastor in Piemont, on the rehitive degree of piety in the
lower and more elevated mountain hamlets.

12*2 SAN VKRAN.

cursions to this place, which I have ah'eady visited
four or five times."

The date of these observations was the 10th of
February, so that from the 16th of January, in the
course of twenty-five days, this indefatigable ser-
vant of God had paid four visits, at the least, to
his flock at San Veran, having, during the same
period, as I shall presently show, displayed an
equal share of anxiety for his parishioners in
quarters still more distant. It was by these means
that he was so successful in winning souls, and
having favour with the people : he was in constant
intercourse with them, going from house to
house ; praying with the sick, discoursing with
those in health on religious topics, and inspiring
a relish for pious conversation, and instructing
the young with all the tenderness and assiduity
of a parent. The reception which he met at
San Veran, was exactly what might be expected
from the descendants of those men, who used to
put their own lives in jeopardy by receiving the
fugitive Vaudois pastors, when they were obliged
to fly from persecution in ' their own valleys,
and a day's journey by the pass of Mont Viso, or

' The Protestants of the valleys of Piemont and Dauphine
afforded each other mutual shelter, when they were pursued by
their enemies. Gilles relates an affecting incident of the refugees
from Italy throwing themselves on the protection of their poor
brethren of Fressiniere in 1566, who most kindly received and
shared their scanty pittance with them, fearless of the double
perils of starvation and the vengeance of their connnon foe.

SAN VERAN. 123

the Col de la Croix, brought them to this seclud-
ed A-illage. It is so secluded, so fenced in by rock
and mountain barriers, that up to this hour there
is not a road approaching it, over which a wheel
has ever passed. Thus situated, on the very out-
skirts of human society, and at a distance from its
vices, refinements, and luxuries, its natives rarely
quit their own haunts to settle elsewhere, and
strangers have no attraction to guide them to a
corner, where none of the comforts, and very few
of the conveniences of life, have yet been intro-
duced. I believe one Englishman only had found
his way to San Veran before myself; and when my
wife and I entered it, the sight of a female, dressed
entirely in linen, was a phenomenon so new to
simple peasants, whose garments are never any
thing but woollen, that Pizarro and his mail-clad
companions were not greater objects of curiosity
to the Peruvians, than we were to these mountain-
eers. The women gathered round us, and ex-
amined first one part of Mrs. Gilly's dress and then
another, with an inquisitiveness and admiration,
whicli were sufficiently amusing. We saw no
symptoms of want, but every thing indicated that
the necessaries of life are far from abundant, either
in San Veran or the contiguous hamlets of Pierre-
Gro.sse and Fousillardc, and that great abstinence
at fillies, and moderation always, are re(piired to
di.^ciplinc them against the long winters, and the
scanty supply of food, whicli result from the cli-
mate and soil of a I'cgion, inucli better adapted to

1*24 SAN VEUAN.

the habits of the bird of prey, and the wild beast,
than of man.

But San Veran is a garden, and a scene of de-
lights, when compared with Dormilleuse, to which
the pastor hastened, as soon as he had put things
in order in this part of his parish. Here the
houses are built like log-houses, of rough pine
trees, laid one above another, and composed of
several stories, which have a singularly picturesque
look, not unlike the chalets in Switzerland, but
loftier and much more picturesque. On the
ground floor the family dwells, hay and un-
thrashed corn occupy the first story, and the
second is given up to grain, and to stores of bread-
cakes and cheeses ranged on frame-work sus-
pended from the roof. But at Dormilleuse, the
huts are wretched constructions of stone and mud,
from which fresh air, comfort, and cleanliness
seem to be utterly excluded. Cleanliness, indeed,
is not a virtue which distinguishes any of the
people in these mountains ; and with such a nice
sense of moral perception as they display, and
with such strict attention to the duties of religion,
it is astonishing that they have not yet learnt to
practise those ablutions in their persons or habita-
tions, which are as necessary to comfort as to
health. Even among the better provided, for
they are all peasants alike, tillers of the earth,
and small proprietors, the wealthiest of whom
(if we can speak of wealth, even comparatively, on
such poor soil,) puts his hand to the spade and

SAN VERAN. 125

hoe witli the same alacrity as the poorest, the
same inicleanlincss prevails ; their apartments are
unswept, their woollen garments unwashed, and
tlieir hands and faces as little accustomed to cold
water, as if there was a perpetual drought in the
land. I should fear that the excellent Neff,
with all the improvements which he introduced
into his parish, either omitted, or failed to con-
vince the folks there, that cleanliness is not a
forbidden luxury, but one of the necessary duties
of life.

But though tlieir habitations and their persons
are, thus far, likely to leave some disagreeable im-
pressions in those, whose sensations have been
rendered quick and impatient by English habits,
yet the simplicity, amiability, and good manners
which prevail among these children of nature,
are so winning, and the images and associations
that rise up in the mind, in this retreat of Pro-
testantism in France, supply such profuse enjoy-
ment, and give such a grace, as well as a charm,
to any intercourse with them, that it is impossible
not to write down the time, that may l)e spent in
Sail Vcran and in its contiguous hamlets, among
tlie most interesting of one's life. To those who
understand tlie j)atois, or to whom it is accurately
translated, as it was to us, the poetical and elegant
turn wlii( li is given to conversation, by the con-
stant us(^ of figures and iii('taj)liors derived from
mountain scenery, and from tiie accidents and

1'2() riKRRE-GROSSE AND FOT'SILLARDE.

exposures of Alpine life, enhance the pleasure,
and send the traveller home well satisfied with his
excursion. In short, it is the moral and intellec-
tual refinement about these mountaineers, which
renders their society interesting in a high degree,
and furnishes matter for reflection long afterwards.
The pastor devoted Monday and Tuesday of
his second week in the Valley of Queyras to
Pierre-Grosse and Fousillarde, which, like San
Veran, are frontier villages ; and there too, he
organized little companies of the well disposed,
who were to meet at stated times to read the
Bible, and to do such things for their mutual
improvement, as he thought might profitably be
done, when they had not the benefit of his pre-
sence. He was obliged to perform divine service
in a barn or large stable, for want of a better
place of worship. He saw that he could not
render his ministrations efl&cient in such a widely
extended parish, unless he resorted to such mea-
sures as these, and therefore he began at once
upon a system which he pursued as long as he
remained. The good effects were soon manifest,
for the inhabitants of Pierre-Grosse and Fousil-
larde, who were first collected together for public
worship in a rude stable, were anxious to gather
round their pastor in a more suitable place. They
willingly taxed themselves, and out of their slender
resources built a neat little church, twenty-seven
feet long by twenty feet wide, and thus added

ALPINE POVERTY. 127

one more to the Protestant sanctuaries of God in
this department. The cost in money was 24Z.
or 600 francs. Materials, such as the country-
afforded, and labour, were easily supplied, but it
was far from easy to provide the extraneous ad-
juncts and the money contribution ; and when I
was there, the year Neff died, there was still a
debt of 300 francs, or 12/. upon the building,
which the twenty-five humble families of the two
hamlets will probably be long before they liqui-
date. Money is necessarily very scarce among a
people, who can seldom raise more corn than will
meet their own demands. The few cattle that
they rear are driven far before they can be sold,
and the return in coin will barely pay the taxes,
and purchase the indispensable household articles
and implements of husbandry of which they stand
in need. Oftentimes even the ordinary resources,
scanty as they are, fail them, and, for this reason,
the poor Alpine is obliged, like the swallow, to
migrate during the long winter, and to leave his
barren rocks in search of subsistence, where the
climate is more favourable to the wants of human
nature. Tliis was the case in 1824. The unpro-
ductiveness of the soil, and the dearth, were so
great, tliat many were obliged to sell their cattle
at a very l<»\s j)iice, because the forage failed, and
they had not tin; means of getting- flicni int(> a
saleable condition ; and Xeff freijuentlv iiu't large
parties, consisting ol young men, and even of
1

1'28 VALE OF THE DURANCE.

fathers of families, moving from their own ham-
lets, and going to seek work on any terms in
distant provinces.

On the evening of Tuesda}^, the 27th of January,
Neff returned to Arvieux ; and after catechising
his young people, and putting things in a satis-
factory train there, he set out for the eastern
division of his charge ; and having again traversed
the formidable pass of the Guil in safety, reached
the Valley of Fressiniere in time to preach at
Violins, on Sunday the first of February.

After leaving Guillestre, which is not far from
the junction of the Guil and Durance, at the foot
of Mont Dauphin, the traveller, whose steps are
directed towards the Valley of Fressiniere, pursues
his path for about five miles northwards, along
the high road which leads from Embrun to Brian-
^on. This is a cheerful route, enlivened by the
impetuous waters of the Durance, and a view of
ever-changing mountain scenery, the lofty and
rugged summits assuming new forms at every
turn of the road. There are also some remark-
able pretty spots in the vale, through which the
river flows with turbulent force, and among the
rest, the village of La Roche, with its small lake,
cannot fail to please the eye. After passing
through La Roche, and crossing the Durance by
a long timber bridge, the ascent to the Valley of
Fressiniere begins. A steep acclivity rises so
abruptly from the river, that at first sight there is

VALLEY OF l-RESSINIERE. 129

no appearance of any practicable mode of advanc-
ing, but the eye presently discerns a shepherd's
path, which creeps up the mountain in an oblique
direction. This leads over some very ruo'o-ed
ground to a defile, through which a rocky tor-
rent rushes with the noise of thunder. On each
side of these wild waters, which roar and fling
their spray about in clouds, there are groups of
cottages, and an alpine bridge with a cascade
above it. These, with the background of rocks,
form as complete a picture of mountain life, as the
imagination can require. This hamlet is Palons,
and the torrent called the Rimasse, is the guide
which conducts to the Valley of Fressiniere : there
is no mistaking the way. The next village, at the
distance of a league, is Fressiniere, which gives
its name to the valley. Another league brings to
Violins ; two miles beyond is Minsas ; and then
comes the toilsome, rough, and clambering route
of three miles to Dormilleuse ; so that, in fact, from
La Roche to Dormilleuse is one continued ascent
of five hours, or supposing that a league an hour
is the pace, fifteen miles. Between Palons and
Fressiniere, there is a lovely fertile vale, enclosed
on each side by steep mountains, and })roducing
several kinds of grain and iVuit trees ; bnt this
cheerfnl [)rospect soon clianges, and every step
leads to scenes wbicli ;ire more and more drearv.
Ai"t(;r j)assiiig tlirongli Minsas, llic lace of" tlie
coiMifrv is perfectly savaLCe and ajt|»alliii^. Blocks

K

130 DORMILLEUSE,

of stone detaclied tVoin the overhanging rocks,
strew tlie ground and threaten to impede all fur-
ther progress. The signs of productiveness are
fewer and fewer. Here and there some thin patches
of rye or oats bespeak the poor resources of the
inhabitants, who have been driven up into this
desert, and the occasional track of the wolf, and
the heavy flap of the vulture's wing over head, tell
who are its proper natives. If such is its summer
welcome, what must have been its chilling aspect
when Neff" made his journey thither on the last
day of January ? But he had that within him
which warmed his heart, and animated his spirits,
as he penetrated through the pathless snows of the
defile, and crossed the raw gusty summit that lay
in his way. His was a work of love — he was going
to preach that word, of which the ancestors of the
Dormilleusians had been the depositories for cen-
turies, when all France rejected it, and to trim the
lamp which had been left alight here, when the
rest of the land was in darkness.

The rock on which Dormilleuse stands is
almost inaccessible, even in the finest months in the
year. There is but one approach to it, and this is
always difficult, from the rapidity of the ascent,
and the slipperiness of the path in its narrowest
part, occasioned by a cascade, which throws itself
over this path into the abyss below, forming a sheet
of water between the face of the rock, and the
edge of the precipice. In the winter season it

nORMILLEUSK. 131

must be doubly liazardous, because it then leaves
an accumulation of ice. Perhaps, of all the habit-
able spots in Europe, this wretched village is the
most repulsive. Nature is stern and terrible,
without oflPering any boon but that of personal
security from the furv of the oppressor, to invite
man to make his resting-place here. When the
sun shines brightest, the side of the mountain
opposite to Dormilleuse, and on the same level, is
covered with snow, and the traveller, in search of
new scenes to gratify his taste for the sublime or
the beautiful, finds nothing to repay him for his
pilgrimage, but the satisfaction of planting his foot
on the soil, which has been hallowed as the asylum
of Christians, of whom the world was not worthy.
The spot which they and their descendants have
chosen for their last stronghold, is indeed a very
citadel of streng-th.

But- the eye wanders in vain for any one point
of fascination. The villaoe is not built on the
summit, or on the shelf of a rock. It is not like
Forsythe's description of Cortona, " a picture
hung upon a wall.' It does not stand forth in
bold relief, and fling defiance upon the intruder
as he ap])roaches. It ii^ not even seen, till the
upper pass is cleared, uud then it disappoints ex-
pectation by its mean disclosure of a few poor
huts, detached fn»iii c-.u-li otiicr, witlioiit any one
building as an object of attraction, or any strongly
marked feature to give a character to I he scene,

K 2

132 DORMILLEUSE.

neither is tliere any view which it commands, to
make amends for this defect in itself : all is cold,
forlorn, and cheerless. Thus the eye has no en-
joyment in gazing- on this dark waste, but the
imagination roves with holy transport over wilds,
which have sheltered the brave and the good from
the storm of man's oppression, a thousand times
more to be dreaded than those of the elements.
Hence the spell thrown over the mind, for it is a
place of fearful and singular interest. But still,
great must have been the love which filled the pas-
tor's bosom, to make him prefer this worse than wil-
derness, this concentration of man's wretchedness,
to all the other hamlets of his parish. He turned
from the inviting Arvieux, and the affectionate
hospitality of San Veran, and the magnificent
grandeur of Vars, to make his chief residence in
the bleak and gloomy Dormilleuse, because there
his services appeared to be most required. Be-
cause there he had every thing to teach, even to
the planting of a potatoe. But his whole life was
a sacrifice ; he lived for nothing else than to be
useful to his fellow-creatures, and to be a labourer
in the service of his Redeemer.

An extract from Neff 's journal shall make him
speak for himself.

" Sunday, Feb. 1. I preached at Violins. In
the afternoon I delivered a catechetical lecture,
and in the evening I performed a service at
which the inhabitants, who are all Protestants,

DORMILLEUSE. 133

attended ; and so did those of Minsas, who are
also Protestants. We sung a psalm, and I ex-
pounded a chapter to them. At ten o'clock most
of them retired, those who came from the greatest
distance having brought whisps of straw with them,
which thev lighted to guide them through the
snow. Some stopped till midnight, we then took
a slight repast, and two of them, who had three-
quarters of a league to return home, set out with
pine torches, indifferent to the ice and snow which
lay on their path.

" The next day I followed the route to Dormil-
leuse, with a man belonging to that village, who
had remained all night at Violins, to accompany
me. Dormilleuse is the highest village in the
valley, and is celebrated for the resistance which
its inhabitants have opposed for more than 600
years to the Church of Rome. They are of the
unmixed race of the ancient Waldenses', and never
bowed their knee before an idol, even when all
the Protestants of the valley of Queyras dis-
sembled their faith. The ruins of the walls and
forts still remain, whicli they built to protect them
against surprise. Tliey owe their preservation in
part to the nature of the country, which is almost
inaccessible, it is defended by a natural fortifi-
cation of glaciers and :irid rocks. The population

' The Waldcnscs of Dauphinc ; a distinct branch of the j)rinii-
tive Church of Gaul.

134 UORMILLEUSE.

ot" the village consists of 40 families : every one
Protestant, The aspect of this desert, both terri-
ble and sublime, which served as the asylum of
truth, when almost all the world lay in darkness ;
the recollection of the faithful martyrs of old, the
deep caverns into which they retired to read the
Bible in secret, and to worshi]) the Father of Light,
in spirit and in truth, — every thing tends to ele-
vate my soul, and to inspire it with sentiments
difficult to describe. But with what grief do I
reflect upon the present state of the unhappy de-
scendants of those ancient witnesses to the cruci-
fied Redeemer ! A miserable and degenerate
race, whose moral and physical aspect reminds
the Christian, that sin and death are the only true
inheritance of the children of Adam. Now, you
can scarcely find one among them who has any
true knowledge of the Saviour, although they al-
most all testify the greatest veneration for the holy
Scriptures. But though they are nothing in
themselves, let us hope that they are well-beloved
for their fathers' sakes, and that the Lord will
once more permit the light of his countenance,
and the rays of his grace, to shine upon these
places, which he formerly chose for his sanctuar3\
Many of them have already become sensible of
their sad condition, and have thanked God for
sending me among them to stir uj) the expiring
flame of their piety. It is some years since Henry
Laget paid them some visits, and when, in his

DORMILLEUSE. 135

last address, he told them that they would see his
face no more, ' It seemed," said they to me,
using one of those beautiful figures of speech in
which their patois abounds, ' as if a gust of wind
had extinguished the torch, which was to light us
in our passage by night across the precipice.'
It is strange that althougli they have been visited
by several pastors of late years, yet there has been
no preparation for receiving the young people at
the Sacrament. I have therefore employed my-
self in giving the necessary instruction, and have
taken down a list of all the young persons between
the ages of 15 and 30. The number of catechu-
mens amounts already to 80. On Tuesday (Feb.
3d) I preached in the church of Dormilleuse,
and some of the inhabitants from the lower part of
the valley attended. The narrow path, by which
they climb to this village is inundated in the sum-
mer by magnificent cascades, and in the winter
the mountain side is a sheet of ice. All the rocks
also are tapestried with ice. In the morning
before the sermon, I took some young men with
mo, and we cut steps in the ice with our hatchets,
to nnider the passage less dangerous, that our
friends from the lower hamlets niioht mount to Dor-
milleuse witli hiss fear of accident. There was a
large (•(jiigrci^iitioii. In the alicnioon 1 calccliized
in a stabh'. ScNcral |)('()])1(' lioni below remained
all night, and thcrciorc i took tin; opportunity of
])ursuiiig niv iu'^tniction'- in the evening, and the

136 i'ALONS.

next day (Wednesday) was spent like Tuesday.
Thursday morning was devoted to similar exer-
cises of instruction and devotion, and then T de-
scended towards the lower valley, with about a
dozen of my elder catechumens, who persisted in
accompanying' me to Minsas, that they might be
present at the lecture there. At night I took up
my quarters in Fressiniere, at the house of M.
Barridon, who is the Receiver of the Commune.
His eldest son is the only person in my parish,
whose education gives liim a claim to the title of
monsieur. In garb and exterior he differs nothing
from the others, and is the very antipodes of a
petit-maitre : a young man of good sense ; a zeal-
ous protestant, but Frenchman-like, not yet seri-
ous enough to answer my views of a Christian.
The inhabitants of the High Alps, like those of
the other provinces of France, have ver}^ little
gravity, and though they are more pious than
others, they are gay and full of humour : so much
so, that very often a sally of wit, or a bon mot
will burst out very unseasonably, and excite a
laugh in the midst of the most serious conversa-
tion. It is necessary to be on one's guard (which
naturally I am very little qualified to be), or to
be in danger of being disconcerted every moment.
On Friday I went to Palons, on my return to Val
Queyras, the first hamlet of the valley, where
there are only eight Protestant families, l)ut I col-
lected some catechumens, and others, as soon as

ARVIEUX. 137

I coukl, and gave them a sermon, and after^va^ds
catechized them. Palons is more fertile than the
rest of the valley, and even produces wine. The
consequence is, that there is less piety here, there-
fore I addressed them very seriously upon their
condition, from the eighth chapter of St. John, ver.
23, 24. In the evenino- we assembled too;etlier
again, and I gave them another service. There
are some young females here, who have an ear,
and love music. , It is always an advantage to a
minister to find such aid, and experience has
taught me, that we may hope for some degree of
success, when we liave this help. On Saturday,
Feb. 7, I set out very early in the morning, to
return to Arvieux, and arrived there in the course
of the evening. Such is the history of one of my
rounds. I shall have to make the same continually.
It is an affair of twenty-one daj^s. Arvieux, where
I am expected to take my principal residence, is
likely to yield a less return than other parts of my
parish. The inhabitants have more trafliic, and
the mildness of the climate appears somehow or
other not favourable to the growth of piety. They
are zealous Protestants, and show me a thousand
attentions, but they are, at present, absolutely im-
penetrable."

Sucli is the history, as Neff called it, of liis first
three weeks" labour in liis nioiiiilaiii j)arish. We
find him, not only preaching, and pcrronniug
j)id)lic service, in every village between Dormil-

138 NEFFS ARDUOUS DUTIES.

leuse and the troutier Alps, where there was a
church, but gathering the young people about
him ; classing them, and instructing them in the
first elements of Christianity ; making lists of
those who had not yet appeared at the Lord's
table, and preparing them for that solemn ordi-
nance ; visiting from house to house ; putting-
families in a train to pursue devotional exercises
by themselves ; inspiring them with the love of
pious conversation and reading ; and performing
all those little offices of kind attention, and pas-
toral duty, which have the sure effect of endearing
a parochial clergyman to his flock, by proving
that he takes a real and an aft'ectionate concern in
all that interests them. This earnestness in
" seeking for Christ's sheep that were dispersed
abroad," through the far scattered hamlets of his
burthensome charge, and in " using both public
and private monitions and exhortations, as well to
the sick as to the whole, within his cure," was
displayed in the winter season ; and we may un-
derstand what a winter is in the Alps, from the
pastor's description of his journey to San Veran,
through the snow storm, and of his employing a
party of village pioneers, himself working at their
head, to cleave a passage through the ice for
those who had to clamber up the rock of Dormil-
leuse. Four times too, in these twenty-one days,
did Neff encounter the pass of the Guil, an un-
dertaking more serious than braving the snow

1

THE HOPE REALIZED. 139

storm, or the icy slope of a mountain, and there
was but one accessible quarter of the section which
he did not visit, — La Grave. He was entirely
cut otl' from Champsaur, for there is no means of
crossing the mountain of Orciere in the winter
months.

We shall see that Neff did not relax in his
efforts, and that the remainder of his ministry was
a repetition of, or an improvement upon his first
exertions, in the great work of winning souls.
And here I cannot but call to mind, and lay be-
fore my readers the expression of a prophetic hope,
recorded a century and a half ago, and when all
was dark and threatening, that the Almighty
would be pleased to remove the cloud which then
huno; over this reo-ion.

" And it is my hope after all," said Allix, at
the end of his remarks on the ancient Churches
of the South of France, '' that as God hath illus-
triously displayed the care of his providence in
raising the Church of Piemont from those ruins,
under which the spirit of persecution thought for
ever to have buried it, so he will be pleased to
vouchsafe the same protection to those desolate
Hocks, whom the violence of the Romish party
hatli constrained to dissemble their faith, by
making a >lio\v of ciiibracing the Roman religion,
to avoid the cxti-ciiiitics of" ihcir jxTscciition."
Tliis lio])f lias b(M'U rrali/.cd, and Dormilk'use lias
Ix'cn made a jiiUar in tbc temple of" our (Jod,
round which the scattered of the Lord lia\e ga-

140

PROTESTANT CHURCHES IN FRANCE.

thered. Those timid families, too, in Val Quey-
ras, which have had a little strength, and have
kept God's word in secret, have been blessed,
by being kept from the hour of temptation.

Note. — State of the Protestant Churches in France, extracted
from Soulier's Statistique of 1828.

DEPARTMENTS.

Aisne, Seine et Marne • • •

Hautes-Alpcs

Ardeche '•

Aveyron

Arriege

Bouches-du-Rhone

Calvados et Orne

Charente

Charente-Inferieure

Dordogne

Drome -

Gard

Haute-Garonnc

Gironde

Herault

Isere

Haute-Loire

Loire-Inferieure et Vendee

Lot-et-Garonne

Lozere •••• •••• •

Basses Pyrenees

Bas-Rhin

Haut-Rhin

Rhone

Seine

Seine-Inferieure

Deux-Sevres ••••.-

Tarn

Tam-et-Garoniie

Vaucluse

Vienne • ■

Carried over 81

1
1
1
1
1
3
2
5

17
1
3
4
1
1
1

o

3

18

4

G

3

3

2

10

0

23

01

4

9

12

3

3

3

11

13

5

1.-)

10

2

4
7
9
13
8
3
2

283

17

1.5

17

7

12

4

5

3

28

13

32

75

4

13

Hi

7

4

{)

21

8

8

23

7

2

3

17

7

18

2

7

404

CB o

■e o
c ^

1
3
3

23

2

1
1

71

U C3 O
S O J

-2 ^ c«

8
4

1

9

4

24

110

4

13

15

15

1

1

IG

17

4

23

2G

3

6

7

15

18

1

G

372

PROTESTANT CHURCHES IN FRANCE.

141

DEPARTMENTS.

Brought over

DEPARTEMENS REUNIS.

Loiret, Cher, Loir-ct-Ch. )

Eure-et-L J

Xonl, Pas do Calais

Moselle, Meurthe

Doiihs

ORATOIRES ANCIENS.

Ardennes

Gers

Sonime

Ain

ORATOIRES RECEMMENT
ETABLIS.

Bouches-du-Rhone

Oise

Gironde

Vosges

Puy-de-D6me

Seine-et-Oise

C6te-d'-0r

Total

81

96

283

303

■3 2

404

71

438 78

>> he

c "H o
oj a o
? P .a

WdS

372

392

It will be seen from this statement, that the number of pas-
tors in the French Established Protestant Church in 1828, was
only 303, less by one half than the number in the very worst
times, between the massacre of St. Bartholomew, and the Revo-
cation of the Edict of Nantes.

A statistique of the number of Roman Catliolic Clergy, pub-
lished by authority in \H'2U, rmders an account of more than
30,000 of tliat order.

CHAPTER V.

Neff organizes Reunions, or Prayer-meetings. — His opinion of
the necessity of such meetings. — Neff's last exhortation to his
Jlock on the subject. — His exhortations examined. — An in-
quiry into the effects and titility of Prayer-meetings. — The
sentiments of Thomas Scott not in favour of them — Those of
Bishop Hehcr the same. — Observations on Family Worship.

In whatever part of his parish ' Neff was plying his
ministerial work, whether it was in the commune
of Arvieux, or in that of Molines and San Veran,
or in the cheerless vicinity of Dormilleuse, there
was one object which he kept steadily in view,
— to promote associations, (reunions) among his
flock, for purposes of mutual improvement in de-
votional exercises, that is to say, in reading the
Bible, in the practice of sacred music, in pious
conversation, in joint prayer, and in all other
things which answer to the apostolical admonition,
" Wherefore comfort yourselves together, and

' I use the word parish, in the ancient ecclesiastical sense
of the term, signifying the particular charge of a minister of God.
I have already explained that NelTs charge extended over many
communes, or parishes, in the civil acceptation of the word, and
in each commune there were several villages and hamlets.

REUNIONS. 143

edify one another, even as also ye do'." He
was so persuaded in his own mind, not only of
the expediency, but of the absolute necessity of
this practice, that I find him expressing himself
thus emphatically in one of his Journals. " I am
confirmed in the opinion, that whosoever, even were
he an angel, should neglect such meetings, imder
any pretext whatever, is very little to be depended
on, and cannot be reckoned among the sheep of
Christ's fold. It is to be wished that the faithful
would never forget the 133d Psalm, or that promise
of our Saviour, ' Where two or three are met
together in my name, there I will be in the midst
of them." ""

It is impossible not to respect the opinions of
such a man as Neff, but here I think he has de-
parted from his usual discreet and cautious rules,
and has stretched the point much too far. That
there may be a considerable dejrree of o-ood result-
ing from such meetings, when they are prudently
conducted, is a truth which will be readily con-
ceded, but it is doubtful, whether meetings of
the kind are likely to be soberly directed in most
cases, and therefore to insist, that there can be no
firm and steady religious principle without their
aid, is an unguarded assuiMj)tion. Many sound
and single-minded Christians have seen reason
to doubt, wlictlicr there be not some ri>k in pru-

' I Thess V. 11.

144 REUNIONS.

motiiig such meetings, as those whicli Neff coin-
meuded so highly, even when they are vigilantly
superintended by an experienced pastor, and much
more so, when the pastor is not at hand to direct
them. In the destitute region where Neff's own
lot was cast, the want of regular spiritual in-
struction might render many expedients absolutely
necessary, which would be questionable in other
parts ; and of the two evils, — shall the scattered
members of a mountain church be left without any
provision to quicken their devotion, and increase
their religious knowledge, during the absence of
their appointed guide, or shall they be advised to
have recourse to a practice which may lead to
error, or to extravagant transports of over-heated
and ill-directed piety ; — perhaps that is the least,
where the mischief is only contingent. Without
helps of some kind, the piety of a flock, left without
a shepherd, must decline ; but it is no more than
conjectural that it will run wild under imperfect
guidance. NefF never found reason to make any
change in his own sentiments on this subject ; on
the contrary, to the last hour of his life, he attached
the greatest importance to the practice of holding
such assemblies. When this world, and all its
hopes and fears, its prejudices and its predilec-
tions were rapidly passing away from him, and he
felt that his end was drawing near, he addressed
a farewell letter to his beloved Alpines, in which
he most solomnlv recommended them to persevere

REUNIONS. 145

in the system. I transcribe the whole of the pas-
sage. It will explain his method and his reasons.

" I exhort you most particularly, not to neglect
the assemblino; yourselves too'ether. I do not mean
by this to recommend those assemblies only, where
one speaks, and all the others listen : these, doubt-
less, where the Gospel is faithtuUy preached, are
so greatly blessed, and are such powerful means
of awakening and confirming souls, that you ought
not to require any admonition touching them. But
this service is not enough for the Christian, nor is
it that which is described and enjoined in those
passages, 1 Cor. xii. 5—12, 22, 28. xiv. 23, 24,
26, 27, 31, ike. The assemblies, of which I now
desire to speak, are those, where all may exhort,
and where all are edified ; where each may com-
municate to his brethren his own sentiments, and
the illumination and the grace which he has re-
ceived from God ; in a word, where each gives
and takes, teaches and learns in turn. These are
the only assemblies wliich can strictly be called
iiuitiial : it is licrc that tliere is a communion
between brethren, and tliat God has promised to
give his blessing, Psalm cxxxiii. I repeat to you,
then, my dear friends, take care to encourage such
assemblies among you : and let them consist
severally, as far as ihcy can, of cM-ry age and
of each sex, tliat tlics mav !••• more siniplr, more
unreserved, and nior<' coiirKlin^. lie who goes

L

146 REUNIONS.

to an assembly only when a stranger, or one of
more than common eloqnence makes his ap-
pearance there, and who neglects the duty, when
none but the humble and the simple attend, can-
not be said to be spiritually-minded. You would
then, indeed, be an assembly where the Lord
woukl be in the midst of you, if each of you wouhl
bring with you a spirit of prayer and meditation,
and your assembly would be as abundantly blessed
as that of the first disciples was, when they met
together in an upper room on that day of the out-
pouring of the Holy Spirit, and on that other day,
when the Apostles returned from the council, re-
joicing that they had been permitted to suffer for
the name of Jesus Christ, Acts iv."

I have not introduced many discussions in inter-
ruption of a narrative, which is meant to be a sim-
ple relation of the practical good, done by a good
man ; nor would I willingly pass censure upon any
of Neff's proceedings, or opinions, because the
general tenor of his ministerial career was so un-
exceptionable, and so wonderfully beneficial, that
I should be inclined to doubt my own judgment
when opposed to his. But in the case now before
us, I have no hesitation in saying, after much
reflection, that his reasoning is defective. The
quotations, which he adduced in the passage above
cited, are by no means happily chosen. Those
from the second and fourth chapters of Acts, do not

REMARKS Ox\ NEFf's EXHORTATION. 147

apply to the case in point, and the others, from the
tAvelfth and fourteenth of 1st Corinthians, admit of
a construction very little to his purpose. The gifts
of God, and the manifestations of the Spirit, there
mentioned, were distinct from the ordinary opera-
tions of grace, and they were enumerated by the
apostle as such, not as spiritual gifts to be com-
monly expected in religious assemblies, by means
of which the possessors of them may be mutually
benefited, but as miraculous endowments, con-
ferred on a few pre-eminently, that the Church
at large might be edified, as occasion should re-
quire. The working of miracles, and the powers of
healing, and the talent of speaking in an unknown
tongue, and of interpreting unknown tongues, and
of discerning spirits, are not gifts which Christians
are taught to look for in the ordinary dispensations
of grace. Nor can the passage 1 Cor. xii. 28.
where it is said, that God first set apostles in the
Church, secondarily propliets, thirdly teachers, after
that miracles, then gifts of healings, helps, govern-
ments, diversities of tongues, be fairly represented
as giving encouragement to assemblies, where
flicrc Clin be no exercise of authority, and where
no manifestation of extraordinary powers is likely
to be displavcd. The reproof at the end of tliis
chapter, and more parti(,'ularlv the general tone of
icbiikr wliicli p(*rvades tlie lourfccntli cliaj)!!'!' ol"
the same Kpistle, would seem to enjoin the greatest

l2

148 UH.MAUKS ON NEl-FS liXIlORTATION.

caution upon the very sul)ject which Neff ap-
proached by far too confidently.

The practice of holding prayer-meetings, or
assemblies of Christians for mutual edification,
has been frequently put to the proof, but 1 have
heard of very few instances (and those only where
tlie organization and proceedings were under tlie
most sage control), in wliicli they have not proved
a temptation and a snare to some of those who
have been engaged in them, for want of being
kept under proper and competent management.
There is a seductive tendency in them, which
ministers to vanity and fond conceits, and while
the humble and the diffident are rendered uneasy
and distrustful of their condition, because they
cannot take a ready part in the conversation, or
act of supplication in behalf of the rest, the for-
ward are puffed up, and indulge in lofty opinions
of their own attainments. I remember well, that
in my visit to Dormilleusc, my companions and
myself brought away an unfavourable opinion of a
young man, who represented himself as leader in
one of these assemblies, and who certainly held
himself in high estimation above his companions,
because of the fluency which he had acquired.
Whether it was simplicity, or forwardness, he
made no hesitation in telling us, that the prayer-
meetings could not be maintained without him.

A clergyman of our own church, whose name,

THOMAS SCOTT ON I'UAYEH MEETINGS. 149

in many places, is one of no small authority, the
late Thomas Scott, was once the curate of a parish
where the system liad been tried, under the most
cautious and prudent superintendence, but he
found himself constrained to refuse g-ivino; his
countenance to it. For modest reasons of his own,
he did not oppose himself to the practice, in that
parish, but he watched its effects, and pronounced
decidedly upon its inutility. He afterwards went
so far as to declare, that he thought it very un-
likely, that prayer-meetings, even under any re-
gulations, " could be conducted in such a manner
tliat the aggregate good would not be counter-
balanced, or even overbalanced by positive evil."
His opinion is of the greater value, because of the
diffidence with which he offered it, and of the
reasons he assigned for it. " But I am, I fear,
prejudiced," said lie, " as the evfls which arose
from those meetings at Olney, induced such an
association of ideas in my mind, as probably never
can be dissolved Two or three effects were undeni-
able. 1. They proved hot-beds, on which super-
ficial and discreditable preachers were hastily
raised up, who going forth on the Lord's day to
neighbouring parishes, intercepted those who used
to attend Mr. Newton. '2. Men were called to
pray in j)iiblic, wlio^c coikIiicI afterwards brought
a deep disgrace on flie (iospel. ;}. Tluiv pro-
duced a captious, criticising, self-wise spirit, so
tliat e\en Mr. \e\st<tii liiiii^cir could Seldom pleas(>

150 HEBER OX PRAYER MEETINGS.

them. These things had no small effect in lead-
ing him to leave Olney. 4. They rendered the
people so contemptuously indifferent to the worship
of God at the church, and indeed many of them
to any public worsliip in which they did not take
a part, tliat I never before or since witnessed any
thing like it, and tliis was one of my secret reasons
for leaving Olney ^"

The necessities of his mountain parish, and its
deprivation of ministers and regular serv^ices, may
in some degree justify Neff for proposing an ex-
pedient of so doubtful a nature, but one who, like
himself^ went forth into a region wliere the
harvest was ready, and the labourers few, has left
his testimony on record, that even in extreme
cases, we must not resort to measures which are
liable to abuse. " The effect of them,"' said
Bishop Heber, when consulted upon this subject,
'' is not only often confusion, but what is worse
than confusion, self-conceit and rivalry : each
labourino; to excel his brother in the choice of
expressions, and th^ earnestness of his address :
and the bad effects of emulation mixing with ac-
tions in which, of all others, humility and forget-
fulness of self are necessary. Such too is that
warmth of feeling, and language derived rather
from imitation than conviction, which under cir-
cumstances which 1 have mentioned, are apt to

^ Life of Scott, seventh edition, p. 518.

THE FAMILY RE-LMON. 151

deg;enerate into enthusiastic excitement, or irre-
verent familiarity."*

But whatever may be the doubts of the pious
and the reflecting, as to the effects produced by
prayer-meetings, or by other religious associations
for mutual edification, composed of persons brought
together from ditierent families, and subject to the
emulations of which Heber was apprehensive, or
to the discreditable admixture, and self-conceited
forwardness of which Scott complained, there is
one kind of re-union, or of assembling ourselves
together, which will admit of no objection, and
which of all others is most likely to be blessed in
its consequences ; that of the family circle. This
may admit within its bosom, a few familiar friends,
or near and intimate neighbours, whose sentiments
are congenial, and whose character, knowledge,
and religious progress arc mutually understood.
In such there is always some respect and vene-
ration attached to one or more particular indi-
viduals, some opinion prevailing as to the superior
piety and intellectual superiority of one of the
party, which has at the same time a controlling
and stimulating influence extremely beneficial to
all present.

A domestic association, sucli as I am supposing,
which combines the advantage of family prayer,
and edif'ving reading ami coincrsation. is one of
tiic most efhcacioii- means, not onl\ (»!" awaken-

152 THE FAMILY RE-UNION.

ing' and establishing religious feeling, but oi"
increasing religious knowledge. It gives, with
the Divine assistance, force and permanency to
holy impressions : it draws out a spirit of self-ex-
amination, and quickens and directs it : it pro-
duces habits of religious vigilance : it inspires a
taste and a preference for devout conversation and
reflection . It leads to a communication of thought,
and to an explanation of doubts, emotions, and
opinions, and to an interchange of knowledge and
acquirement, which enriches the whole circle.
The intlividuals, composing a family meeting of
this kind, are too well acquainted with each other's
foibles and weaknesses, and virtues and talents,
to venture beyond the bounds of good sense, or to
indulge in emulous or exciting transports, which
are the bane of prayer-meetings composed of per-
sons not well known to each other, and the mutual
confessions which the former make, and the en-
couragements which they dispense, are all within
the limits of sober and serious piety.

^ I lately heard of three young clergymen, (and I trust there
are many such) who are residing in adjoining parishes near lion-
don, and who meet at regular times, to read together, and to
improve each other, according to the various modes of mutual
edification, which open out upon such occasions. These, and
the like, are meetings together of two or three to which the
Lord has promised his presence.

CHAPTER VI.

Neff at Champsaur — His difficulties there — From Champsatir
to Vol Fressiniere — His Employments from break of day to
midnigh' — His account of the Consecration of the new Church
of Violins — His discussion with a Vaudois Pastor — Wretched
condition of the Natives of Val Fressiniere — y/« affecting Inci-
dent— Xeff institutes associations of the Bible and Missionary
Societies among his Alpines — Passage of the Col d'Orsiere —
Progress of his Catechumens at Champsaur — Laments over
the levity of some of his Flock — Prevents the apj)ointmcnt of
an unworthy Pastor at Champsaur.

It has been stated in a former chapter, that Neff
was not able to include Champsaur, the most
western quarter of his parish, in his first parochial
circuit. The direct path to that commune would
have been over the Col d'Orsiere from Dormil-
leuse : but the state of the mountain would not
permit it, lie therefore returned to the valley of
Qu(!vras ; and there remained, for a few weeks,
perforniin<^ the renular services of his vocation,
liut in the middle of Marcli, 1824, his stirrintr
spirit would not permit him to remain stationary
ill one (juaitcr of liis cliarf»;e any lonj^er. llere-
(piir»(l constant action, and tlic cxcitciiu'iit of
locomotion, and w(! find liini making- his way to
( 'li;iiiij)saiir. I)\ tlic circiiihjus route of" I'lmlinin and

154 CHAMPSAUR.

Gap. The Nvliole country was still covered with
snow, and a keen north wind rendered the pastor's
)t)urnev an enterprize of no common difficulty,
althoug'li he followed the high road from Mont
Dauphin, for there was no avoiding the pass of
the Guil, and avalanches continualh^ menace the
traveller in that gloomy defile during the snowy
season. But to NefF's ardent mind every tiling
was resolvable into good. " Although the winter
is prolonged," said he to one of his correspondents,
" and its severity is very disagreeal)le, yet it is
favourable to my w^ork. The peasants are at
leisure to attend my instructions." At Champsaur,
as at other places, his invariable practice was to
have morning service and a sermon, afternoon
catechizing, and a familiar evening lecture or ex-
position, every Sunday and Thursday in the week,
and catechizings or expositions every other day.
Here he found his flock so intelligent, that they
made as much progress in eight days as some did,
elsewhere, in two or three months ; but it was the
march of the understanding, and not the move-
ment of the softened heart; " for alas," said the
pastor, making use of one of those beautiful
images of Scripture, which give a peculiar charac-
ter to the style of his Journals, *' my words are not
those of the Spirit, which can change stones into
children of Abraham."

In another place, after remarking that they were
for the most part more Protestants in name than

CHAMPSAUR. 155

in spirit, he added ; '' An elder asked me the
other day, ' how do the affairs of our religion go
on at present ? ' ' Very badly,' said I, ' in France.'
' How so/ he rejoined. ' Because one finds no-
thing but lukewarmness and indifference.' ' Oh
that is not what I meant. ' ' I know very well what
you mean, but my estimate of what is going on
well or ill is very different from your's.' "

He thought that the fertility of the commune of
Champsaur, and its proximity to the high road, and
to Gap, were great stumbling-blocks ; but when-
ever he was constrained, by the love of the truth,
to remark upon the defects of any of his flock, his
gentle and affectionate disposition always shone
forth in some such apologetic note as this. " But
notwithstanding their levity and worldly-minded -
ness, they are always attentive hearers ; they
testify the greatest kindness towards me, and
press me to repeat my visits as often as I can."

From Champsaur, proceeding ever and anon
in his endless round, Neff went to the valley of
Fressiniere, and there remained a fortnight. It
was during this visit to tliat secluded district,
where the inliabitants are centuries behind in all
the useful arts, as well a.s in the refinements of
life, that the hands whicli were so often spread
fortii to give the apostolical benediction, wen,' now
emplov(;d in ibc nicchaiiicul work of giving the
hist finisli to the new churcli at Violins, Wlien
tlic biiildiiiLi" was romplctcd cxtrniallv. not a soul

156 MIDNIGHT LAliOURS.

there, either workmen or others, knew how to
give the interior the proper air and character of a
house of worship. To fashion and place the pul-
pit, to plan and arrange the seats, and not only to
direct and to superintend, but to labour with the
smiths and carpenters, so called, was the pastor's
occupation, when lie could spare time from his
preaching, and his catechizing, and his visiting
from hamlet to hamlet, and from house to house.
Nothing was too much, too great, or too little
for this citizen of two worlds ; this man of God,
and servant of servants. From break of day to
midnight he was toiling in one way or other, with
unyielding perseverance, and as the season had
now permitted some of his catechumens to return
to their labours, the young men to their fields, or
their slate quarries, and the young women to
their flocks, in the few sunny corners, where a
thaw had taken place, his evening expositions
began later, and were extended far into the night.
The ardour of the teacher and his scholars seemed
to be equal : both stole from their hours of rest :
and the long glare of blazing pine-wood torches,
and the shouting of voices, directing the footsteps
of the timid, or of the tottering, often broke the
silence and the darkness of the night in those
wild glens, and announced that the pastor's cate-
chumens were finding their way home from one
hamlet to another, after the sacred lessons that
followed upon the manual labours of the day.

THE PASTORS CIRCUIT. 157

Even the return of summer, which was very
late, for there was a heavy fall of snow in the
beginning of .Time, brought no intermission of toil
to this indefatigable man. If his journeys were
less painful, they were more frequent ; and the
perpetual variation in the date of his journals,
from Pierre-Grosse to Dormillcuse and Champ-
saur, and from La Grave to Vars, shows that he was
perpetually on the move, looking after one part
of his flock, and then another, and never resting
satisfied unless he was assured, by his own obser-
vation, that his system was working w-ith regularity.
The climate meantime was so variable, tliat when
the flowers were blooming atGuillestre andPalons,
not a green bud or a blade of corn w as to be seen
at San Veran or Dormilleuse. One day's walk,
however, would frequently bring him from the
drifting snows of the mountain side, to the enjoy-
ment of ricli foliage and verdure in the vale of
the Durance, and he would then exclaim, in the
cheerfulness of his heart, " the winter is past, the
flowers appear on the earth, the fig tree puttcth
forth her green figs, and the vines, with tlie ten-
der grape, give a good smell."

In August 1824, an event took place, which I
will relate in the pastor's own words, because mat-
ters are mixed uj) with it which cannot be iiitro-
duc<Ml bv anv body .so well as hy himself; and
})ecause his sinq)le narrative will carry ns np to
the mountain^, and into tlie midst of Alpine life.

158 CONSECRATION OF NEW CHURCH.

This was the consecration of the new church of
Violins, in the valley of Fressiniere — the building
whose internal arrangement owed all its propriety
to his taste and judgment, when he acted the part
of master- workman, and gave it the finishing hand.

Guillestre, 24th September, 1824.

" I must have mentioned to you, in one of my
former letters, the intended dedication of the new
temple ' of Violins, in the valley of Fressiniere.
A dedication is no common solemnity in France.
After having had all their temples demolished, and
being obliged to assemble in secret, and at the
peril of their lives, in forests, and in caverns, and
in mountains, and now to behold their sanctuaries
rebuilt under the sanction, and with the pecuniary
assistance of the government, is it not natural that
the Protestants should testify their sense of the
mercies of Almighty God, and their gratitude to
the king in the best manner that they are able ?
We expected, upon this occasion, that M. Blanc,
pastor of Mens; M. Bonifas, pastor of Grenoble ;
M. Best, pastor of La Tour, and moderator of the
Waldensian Churches of Piemont, with some of his
colleagues ; and that M. d'Aldebert, president of
our consistory, would be present to do honour to

' The term temple is used by the Protestants to distinguish
their consecrated buildings from the church of the Roman
Catholics.

1

CONSECRATION OF NEW CHURCH. 159

the festival. The sub-prefect of Embnin, although
a Roman Catholic, had promised to assist at the
ceremony. But of all those who had engaged to
come, the sub-prefect, and an aged Vaudois pastor,
were the only personages there ; all the rest, under
some pretext or other, were absent. Had it not
been for this good old man, who, at seventy -three
years of age, had not hesitated to pass the Alps,
and to make a journey of two days to be with us, I
should have been the only officiating pastor, and the
members of the church of Fressiniere would have
felt themselves sorely neglected. The solemnity
took place on Sunday, the 29th of August. On
the previous evening I had begun to make the
necessary preparations. A bower of oak branches,
in full foliaoe, decorated and shaded the front of
the building, and protected those who could not
find room inside, from the heat of the sun. Many
stranjiers had arrived on the mornina; of the day
before, and among the rest our friend Ferdinand
Martin, of Champsaur, with his uncle and several
others of that commune. Late in tlie evenins:
came the venerable Vaudois pastor, accompanied
by the two brothers and uncle of our friend Blanc,
and otlicr laymen from the valleys of Piemont.
My flock were sadly disappointed at not seeing
the Moderator Bert, and the I^resident D'Alde-
bert, for wliom we waited a lonn- time in \aiii.
Early on Simdav tlic tciiijilc was tilled witii pco-
[)1»' from all the nci'^hlxmrinti' vallr\s, Roman

160 CONSECRATION OF NLW CHURCH.

CatlioHcs as well as Protestants. I ascended the
pulpit at nine o'clock, and began with a prepara-
tory service or form of prayer. I then expounded
some verses of the eighth chapter of the Epistle to
the Hebrews, and drew a parallel between the
two covenants, the old and the new. After this
service the sub-prefect arrived, and as there was
no appearance of the president, I requested the
Vaudois pastor to perform the ceremony of dedi-
cation. It was a compliment due to his age.
He ascended the pulpit, and preached from Jere-
miah vii. 4 — 7. ' Trust ye not in lying words,
saying, the temple of the Lord, the temple of the
Lord, the temple of the Lord, are these. For if ye
thoroughly amend your ways and your doings ; if
ye thoroughly execute judgment between a man
and his neighbour ; if ye oppress not the stranger,
the fatherless, and the widow, and shed not inno-
cent blood in this place, neither walk after other
gods to your hurt ; then will I cause you to dwell
in this place, in the land that I gave to your fa-
thers, for ever and ever.' Old as he is, the Wal-
densian minister preached with all the ease and
force of a young man. After the sermon, I de-
livered the prayer of benediction, and the Lord
assisted me therein, — and 1 felt that I was asking
for those things for which we ought to ask. This
ended, the Vaudois pastor read some verses of his
own composition to the congregation, which w^ere
exceedingly touching, by the recollections which

CONSECRATION OF NEW CHURCH. 161

they called up. The service concluded with a
psalm, and the apostolic benediction. We then
left the temple, and took our dinner in company
with the sub-prefect, who was anxious to return
to Embrun that evening. This magistrate is very
amiable and frank in his manners, and has there-
by acquired great popularity. He shook hands
with all, even with the humblest mountaineer ;
talked patois, and replied with great good-humour
and wit, to the compliments which were paid
him. He is an excellent botanist, and he takes
great interest in the commune of Fressiniere,
which he frequently visits to inspect a flock of
Thibet goats which belong to the king, and are
kept here. Perhaps it will be useful to me to have
made his acquaintance upon this occasion.

".After dinner, which was soon despatched, the
prefect took his leave, and we returned to the
temple, where Ferdinand Martin had been con-
ducting some psalmody. I learnt afterwards,
that while we were at dinner, he had addressed
those who were in the tent, near tlie door of the
temple, on the salvation which is through Jesus
Christ, and lie did this in the hearing of so many,
that it was mentioned to me afterwards by several
persons in the diflerent valleys. Hav ing expected,
like every body else, that we sliould Iiunc tlnce
presidents of consistory, 1 never supposed that I
should liave to prcacli at all this day, iiitich less
twice, and therefore 1 was \>y nv means prepared,

M

16:2 CONSECRATION OF N FAV CHURCH.

altliou«2,li I have been in the habit of preaching ex-
tempore. But no doubt it was the will of God that
this large assembly should hear the Gospel of Truth
delivered with simplicity, and without any turning
aside from it. I })reaclied therefore from Hebrews
viii. 2. 'A minister of the sanctuary, and of tlie
true tabernacle, v/liich tlie Lord pitched, and not
man.' In my exordium I defined the material
Church made with hands, both according to the
old and the new covenant, and I anticipated that
which 1 did not wish to dwell upon in the body of
my discourse. After this, 1 divided my sermon
into three heads : — 1. Christ is the minister of the
heavenly sanctuary, into whicli lie is entered, as
the priest and the victim. 2. The Church mili-
tant and triumphant is called a temple holy unto
the Lord. 3. Our hearts are called the temples
of the Holy Spirit. In discussing the second head,
the Lord put into my mouth some happy and im-
portant expressions, as to wliat is the Church,
and at the end of each division, particularly of the
last, I took the opportunity of addressing a press-
ing invitation to my hearers to receive the proffered
grace of Christ, and to go to him.

" After the third and last service, there was an
ample repast for the principal members of the
Church, and for the strangers who came from a
distance. I sat down to table with the rest, and
then we went down the valley to Fressiniere, with
M. Marchand, and all the Vaudois, to the house

DISCUSSION WITH A VAUDOIS PASTOR. 163

ol'M. Barridoii, the receiver. Our friends from
Champsaiir, with some others, remained atViohns,
and in the evening- they returned to the tem-
ple, with the people of the village, to sing psalms.
Ferdinand offered up a prayer, and tliey remained
in the performance of their devotional exercises
till ten o'clock at night. The next day the Champ-
saur people returned home by the Col d'Orsiere.

" Here I must not omit to tell you of a discussion,
which arose between the Vaudois pastor and my-
self, on the Saturday evening before the dedication
of the temple. He was praising Protestants most
lavishly, and especially the Vaudois, whom he
exalted to the very skies in comparison with the
Roman Catholics. I ventured to make some ob-
servations on the danger of flattering people, and
the little good whicli arises from elevating them
above their adversaries ; and 1 reminded him of
the admonition of our Lord, ' that we had better

first cast the beam out of our own eye.' Mr.

retorted, and displayed at once the fallacy of his
principles. I felt myself awkwardly situated : on
the one hand, it was scarcely decent to enter into
a controversy publicly, (for a great many })ersons
were present,) with a respectable old man, who bad
been so kind as to come tVom a <j,i'cat distance lor
our sakes ; and on the otlicr hand, I could not
suffer error to pi-(\ail. and to witiihold niy testi-
mony from tiic trnlli. I tluTcibrc tried to ex-
press myself with mildness and frankness at the

M '2

1()4 DISCUSSION WITH A VAUDOIS PASTOR.

same time, and, in tact, the old man was the only
one who put himself in a passion. — (I decline in-
serting the particulars of the controversy, because
they are not entirely creditable to the aged pastor,
who is still alive, and w^hose sentiments may have
been misunderstood l)y Neff.) — After the discus-
sion had lasted a long time, he rose up in anger
and left the room. But as I was unwilling that
this dispute should become a subject of scandal
to the weak, and throw a cloud over the festival,
I followed him to the door of the apartment, and
wished him good night. Touched by those ad-
vances of mine, and perceiving that he was wrong-
to manifest any signs of displeasure, he embraced
me affectionately, and exclaimed, ' my dear friend,
I admire your principles, but entertain a better

opinion of '.' I laughed, and promised to do

so, on condition that he would say no more about
them. We then separated for the evening, w ithout
any ill humour, to the great satisfaction of all who
were present. From that time to his departure,
no other altercation took place between us. I
endeavoured to treat him w^th every mark of re-
spect, and, on taking his leave, he pressed me,
with great sincerity, to pay him a visit in his native
valleys*."

After the dedication of the new temple of Vio-

* Two French authors, whose names were frequently men-
tioned during the discussion.

' See note at the end of this chapter.

THE PASTORS CIRCUIT. 165

lins, on tlie 29tli of Auoust, Neff spent tlie whole
of September in visiting first one hamlet and then
another, going from house to house, in the faithful
discharo'e of his functions. There was no one
comer of his parish which he did not inspect, in
the course of this month, from SanVeran toChamp-
saur, and from La Grave to Vars. Several of the
villages were \dsited twice during this interval.
But September, which is so delicious a month in
most countries under the same latitude, wore the
garb of premature winter in many of the hamlets,
whither this good shepherd directed his steps, in
search of the scattered sheep of his flock. It was
not in Val Fressiniere, as in more favoured lands,
that autumn gave to the declining year a rich and
mellow glory. Few of the balmy airs of the
south of France breathe there at any time. Either
a fierce and a suffocating heat prevails, which
makes the narrow glens feel like a fiery oven,
or a rushing blast, that shivers the rocks, and
uproots the fir, and threatens to make the fugitives'
last retreat still more desolate and comfortless.
Even in the heiglit of summer, when vegetation is
most rich and fresh, there is so little of it here, that
the arid rock, and the grim and blackening sides
of tlic iiioiiiitaiu, rivet the eye, and give a sombre
sadness, not to say, deadness, to tlie landscape,
which makes one even prefer the season of frost
and siH)w, as beiiio; more congenial to the ri'gion.
On tlie IMli of Scplciiilx'r Nctl" crossed the Col
dOrsiere, niidrr a lall of -now. Mich, ii<' re*

1()G MINSAS.

marked in his Diary, as is never known in his
native land, (Geneva,) but in the depth of winter.
At Dormilleuse, the peasants were driven from
their fieUl works by the severity of the weather,
and when he descended to Minsas, the dreary
aspect of that hamlet, lyino; deep in snow, wrung
from him many sympathetic expressions of com-
passion, which are recorded in the pages of his
Journal. It was the wretchedness of these poor
mountaineers, in the three highest villages of Val
Fressiniere, which induced him to devote more of
his time to them, than to any other quarter of his
parish : seeing them deprived of almost every tem-
poral enjoyment, he determined to give them all the
spiritual comfort that he could impart. "Their
village, (speaking of one of these three, Minsas,)
is squeezed up in the very narrowest gorge of
the valley, and is now buried in snow, without the
hope of seeing the sun during the rest of the winter.
The houses are low, dark, and dirty : and the
people themselves seem to be stupified with the
utter misery of their condition." And yet it was
in this forlorn place, that one of the two brothers,
Besson, whom he describes, as having displayed
great anxiety to know more of the way of sal-
vation, but whose understanding and attainments
were of an ordinary scale, and who stammered in
his speech, addressed the following mournful con-
fession to him, in the rich patois of his valley.
" You have come among us, like a woman who
attempts to kindle a fire with green wood. She

MINSAS. 167

exhausts her breath in blowing it, to keep alive
the little Hame, but the moment she quits it, it is
instantly extinguished."

In another place, he writes thus of the temporal
and spiritual condition of Dormilleuse and Min-
sas. " ' The wilderness and the solitary place
shall be glad, and the desert shall rejoice and
blossom as the rose.' This dreary and savage
valley seems to have realized an accomplishment
of the prophecy. Desiring to have the inhabit-
ants supplied with some good sermons for their
use, on those Sundays when I could not perform
the public service in their valley, I sent to Paris
for some copies of Nardin's Sermons, but when
they arrived, I was afraid that the price, fifteen
francs the four volumes, would stand in the way
of their sale. At first they were received coldly,
but when I had read a few of the sermons, every
body was anxious to know more of them. I pro-
posed that four families should join in the pur-
chase of one set, and offered to wait their own time
for the payment. This was caught at with avidity,
and the books were soon disposed of, and a fresh
packet ordered. At Minsas, the Bessons having
bought two volumes, were anxious to purchase
the other two, l>ut though tlicy an; the wealtliiest
ill the liaiiil<t. ihcv li;i<l ii<^ more sj)are money
left. * Have we not laid by some francs lo buy a
]n<xV said one of thr sons ; ' Let us give up tbc.
pig, and get tiie books." All the rest accjuiesced,

168 AN AFFECTINCi INCIDENT.

ami they comi)leted their set. At Dormilleuse I
witnessed similar instances of self-denial. One
young man said, ' I will devote all my earnings
in the slate quarries to the purchase of Nardin.'
Another said, ' In the spring I will go into Pro-
vence, in search of work. I shall raise twenty-
four francs, and will apply part of the money to
the acquisition of the books.' Others determined
to go without salt, and to devote the purchase
money to the sermons. The services, both public
and private are attended better and better. Their
neighbours observe a manifest change in their
manners. At Minsas in particular, the least civi-
lized and most wretched hamlet in the valley, the
improvement is so striking, that it may literally
be said of them, ' The last shall be first.' "

During my rambles in the valley of Fressiniere,
I saw some of the identical copies of Nardin 's
Sermons, which were thus purchased at the cost
of personal comforts, and the reader may judge
with what feelings I turned over their pages, and
fixed my eyes upon their owners.

An affecting incident which took place one
Sunday, displays the character of these simple
people to the greatest advantage. Neff had been
performing tlijiee services in the church of Dor-
milleuse, to a congregation which filled the little
sanctuary, and he was afterwards proceeding to-
wards Romas, the upper part of this mountain
village, followed by many of the inhabitants of

AN AFFECTING INCIDENT. 169

that quarter, who had been among his hearers.
Suddenly they were alarmed b}" some loud cries
behind them. These were occasioned by the sud-
den illness of a young woman of the party, who
was stretched upon the ground, without any signs
of life. In fact, the vital spark had fled, and thus
a young person of twenty-six years of age, of a
robust frame, who had been present at the three
services in the course of the day, and who had
been joining in the psalmody, with great anima-
tion but a few minutes before, was now carried
home a breathless corpse. The consternation of
her parents was extreme, for she had been the
only strong and healthy member of the family,
and the principal support of it ; but they bore
their loss without a murmur, and what they most
lamented, was the suddenness of her death, with-
out havino- time to commend her soul to God.
The poor mother, in particular, testified the ut-
most submission to the blow, although she had
three children nearly blind, and her husband
was feeble and in bad health. During the
two nights that the corpse remained unburied, the
house was filled with people, who came to otl'er
their condolence, and esj)ecially with young wo-
iiK'ii. Ncli' embraced tlic ()])})oitui}ity of reading
appropriate passages of Scripture, and dl" poiiiiiig
in such consolalicjHS and admonitions, as were
most aj)])lical>h;, and «'.\liorled them to watch and
pray, and to keep themselves in readiness against.

170 AN AFFECTING INCIDENT.

the coming of the Lord. When the time came
for pkiciiig the corpse on the bier, the unhappy
mother repeated aloud a prayer, in French, for
the dying, and then all of a sudden she burst out
in patois — " Alas ! my poor child had not time
to utter these words. Death has seized her, as
the eagle snatches up the lamb, as the rock which
falls and crushes the timid kid of the chamois ;
oh ! my dear Mary, the Lord has taken thee at
the very gate of his temple. Thy last thoughts
were therefore, we hope, directed towards him.
Oh ! may he have made thy peace before the throne
of God, and received thee in paradise !" All the
inhabitants of Dormilleuse attended the melan-
choly procession to the grave, and their pastor
read the ninetieth Psalm, as the earth closed upon
the coffin, and then delivered an address, which
the mourners are not likely to forget.

In several of his Journals, Neff speaks of the
extreme poverty of the people, but poor as the
district was, the pastor was successful in raising-
some small contributions in aid of religious so-
cieties. His good sense, and right feeling would
not allow him to squeeze out the widow's mite,
or weekly or monthly penny from the father of a
family, in cases where it could ill be spared, but
he understood the value of sympathetic concern in
the religious condition of others, and therefore
encouraged, where he could consistently, the in-
terest which any of his flock might be inclined to

NEFF INSTITUTES A BIBLE SOCIETY. 171

take in the spiritual wants of their countrymen,
and of others, who stood in need of that Gospel,
whose light warmed their own hearts. The sum
raised was very small, but Neffhad the gi'atifica-
tion to inform the committees of the Bible Society,
and of the Missionary Society, that such feeble
support as they could render to the cause, was
cheerfully proffered by the shepherds and goat-
herds of the High Alps.

The following account, transcribed from one of
the reports of the Continental Society, of which
Neff was an agent, is his own relation of the
manner in which he established an association of
the Bible Society ; and annexed to this account,
is a detail of some of his proceedings at Champ-
saur, which may very properly be introduced in
this place.

" I left off in my last, I believe, at the joyful
epoch of the revival here ; but I think I have not
spoken of the Bible Society, which was formed at
the same time. In concert with Mr. B. jun. we
called together ten of the principal inhabitants
of the different Protestant hamh^ts. I explained
to them, in a few words, the design and progress
of tiic Bible Society, and finding them well-dis-
posed to co-operate, we immediately organized our
committee, of which Mr. B. was appointed presi-
dent. ( )ii flic 5fb of April, an account was taken
of all ibt; ((jpics ol the Holy Scrij)turcs ; at the
same time noticing the demands for tlieni. Be-

17'2 NKFF INSTITI TES A lUIJI-E SOCIETY.

lore the ibnnatioii of the Society, there were not
ill all the valley twelve Bibles (almost all from
Lou vain), and a very small number of New Testa-
ments, most of them Father Amelot's edition, and
all in a very bad state. Since the remittances
from the London Society, and especially, since
the formation of that in Paris, half of the families
have been provided with Bibles, and almost all
with New Testaments. Most of these books have
been paid for at the ordinary price, and have
reached us through the kindness of Messrs. Lissig-
nol and Laget. Now, almost all those who still
want Bibles, have set down their names for them.
We afford them the accommodation of paying for
them by instalments, which, in the case of the
poorest, extends to two or three years. In these
countries we must not speak of weekly subscrip-
tions for payments of this sort ; the mountaineers
scarcely ever touching money, but at the time they
sell their cattle ; all the rest of the year, most of
them have not a sol at their disposal. Having
reduced all this business into the form of a report,
I addressed it to the president of our consistory at
Orpierre, in order that he might forward it to the
Paris Bible Society ; but foreseeing that this
course would take some time, I addressed myself
directly to the committee for one hundred pocket
New Testaments, saying, that we impatiently
waited for them, because, as I expressed it, " the
young shepherds of the Alps were languishing to

PASSAGE OF THE COL d'oRSIERE. 173

be able to furnisli their scrip with the bread that
eiulureth to eternal life.'" And now the Christian
traveller visiting the glacier valle}^ of Fressiniere,
will see, not without emotion, the humble shep-
herdess seated at the foot of a block of granite,
and surrounded by her lambs, reading with her
eyes bathed in tears, the history of the Good
Shepherd who gave his life for the sheep.

" On Wednesday, the 6th, I passed the defile
of Orsiere. Several of my catechumens were my
guides. Our conversation was very edifying. I
was struck with the Christian reflections, whicli
the difficulties of our way, and tlie savage aspect
of the glaciers that surrounded us, suggested to
them. ' How many times,' said one of them,
' have I braved danger in following the wild goat
among these precipices ! I spared neither my time
nor trouble ; I endured cold, hunger, and fatigue;
I traversed the most frightful rocks, and exposed
my life hundreds of times ! Shall I do as mucli
for Jesus ? Shall I pursue eternal life with as much
ardour ? And yet, what comparison is there be-
tween the two objects ! '

" I arrived the same evening at St. Laurent,
where I immediately held a meeting. I thought
on coming to Champsaiir, to rest a little from tlie
fatigues of the preceding week, but by the grace of
Ciod, I liad still enough to (h). Our cxcclh'nt Fer-
dinand liad not rehixed his exertions. I round the
zeal of tlie peoj)U; increased, and their manners

174 ST. LAURENT,

improved. These people, so worldly, so proud of
their riches, their strength, or their beauty, are
not insensible to the voice of the Gospel. Although
the Protestants are only a small minority, their
example, nevertheless, influences the Roman
Catholics. Dancing has disappeared ; gaming
and drunkenness, which had passed into a proverb
among them, have sensibly diminished ; and one
seldom hears any more of those sanguinary quar-
rels, once so frequent in this valley. On Thursday
and Friday I catechised ; I visited the school and
several families, and held a meeting each evening.
On Saturday, the day of admitting the catechu-
mens, I held a meeting in the morning. Several
of them, the least instructed, live in the neigh-
bouring mountains among Roman Catholics, and
have no means for their education, and the dis-
tance preventing their often repairing to St. Lau-
rent, they are able to be present only at the cate-
chising. I addressed them in the dialect of the
country, in a very simple manner, and endeavoured
to bring near to them the truths of the Gospel.
They appeared very attentive, so did their parents,
not less ignorant than themselves, who accom-
panied them. I afterwards admitted, at the morn-
ing service, fifty-two catechumens, for the most
part pretty well instructed, and some of them
really impressed with divine truth. The afternoon
was passed mostly in the church, and on account
of the numbers, we were obliged to hold the meet-

CHAMPSAUR. 175

iug there in the evening. On Sunday, the 10th,
we had a veiy numerous meeting at the com-
munion. Notwithstanding an opening I had got
made in the ceiling of the church, it was with
great difficulty that I could breathe. In the
afternoon, the meeting was, contrary to usual
custom, ahnost as numerously attended as in the
morning, and the upper part of the church was
again almost full. I saw only one Protestant
playing at bowls. Several of the inhabitants of
the neighl)ouring hamlets, who had come for the
first time to the evening meeting, said, as they
were returning, ' If this man often came hither,
the public-house keepers would not get rich.'

" In the midst of all this outward zeal, the truly
spiritual work goes on slowly ; and I think, that
excepting Ferdinand, few have become established
in grace.'*

The last observation was forced from the pastor,
because he found in the people of Champsaur a
levity at times, which rent his heart. For ex-
ample, in a family where there were several young-
people, one of whom had shown symptoms of
growing piety, he was making some earnest ap-
peals to their religious feelings, and was imploring
till iji to seek God in prayer, when a youth, w ho
was a celebrated sportsman, exclainu'd, pointing
to his dogs and his gun. " look, these ;ire my
gods ! Such unpronii-ing >igns often led him
into a train of painful tiioiight, and then he \m-

176 C IIA^IPSAIK.

burtlR'iictl his iiiiiul ])y comiiiittiiin' such inoiiriiful
reflections to paper as these. " Oh! M^hen will
the Gospel find in these southern provinces of
France, such a soil for its reception, as among the
faithful hearers in Alsace. Even those, who are
more fit for the work of an evangelist than I am,
find the same difficulties. The few that seem to
be awakened, are for the most part languishing
and irresolute. Lively and trifling, the French
peasant appears at first to be moved and influenced
by the word of life, but he soon grows tired of it,
and he suffers his attention to be distracted. The
most brilliant show of blossoms gives but little fruit,
and if the fruit ripens, it is Init very slowly."

Some transactions, in which Nefl" took a very
decided part, occurred during one of his visits to
Champsaur, towards the latter end of the year
1824, which illustrate both his own character,
and the low state of religion among too many of
the Protestants of the south of France. Champ-
saur was served by Neff" provisionally, until a
pastor could be found, who would undertake the
duties of the commune. A clergyman of very
indifferent character, whose proffered services had
been rejected by many of the Protestant sections,
presented himself as a candidate for the parish of
Champsaur. The president of the consistory of
Orpierre, knew that he was an unfit object for the
charge, but, under the influence of that indeci-
sion, which too frequently marks the bearing of

CHAMPSATR. 177

official persons, who are less the heads than the
organs of a representative body, he was disposed
to act against his own better judgment, and to
yield to the importunity of two members of the
board, who were personally interested in behalf
of the unworthy applicant. The discussion lasted
for several days, and, as is often the case, the
pertinacity of the minority triumphed over the
indifference of the majority. They were on the
eve of gaining their point by dint of out-talking
the better thinking. Happily, Neff was in the
neighbourhood at the time, and the president
sent a message to entreat him to repair to Orpierre
without loss of time, and to throw his weight into
the right scale. A wild mountain was to be
traversed at the shortest notice in the month of
December, and some very severe weather had
affected Neff's health ; but he cheerfully set out
upon his dreary journey before day-light, to avoid
the keen north wind, which usually blew at cer-
tain hours. But rude Boreas was earlier than
our traveller. He had iniicli difHculty in acliiev-
ing the ascent, and when he arrived at the summit,
lie was so weak, and the wind was so violent, and
the ridge so slippery with ice and frozen snow,
that it was an affair of no small danger to proceed.
He persev(M*('(l, however, and liis presence and
arguments tni'ncd flic scale Tbc nndc^crxing
candidate was a man ol" cdn-idcrablc addi'os and
powers of mind, and at a lurnicr pniod <il" lite,

178 ClIAMPSAUR.

bc'tore lii^ iiiunoralitics iiniiiaskcd him, hud ob-
tained testimonials from some persons of emi-
nence, which he now exhibited. Armed with
these, and supported by the suffrages of those
who tliouglit more of talent and lively manners
tlian sound ministerial usefulness, he would have
succeeded, if the remonstrances of Neff had not
shamed the consistory into a decision, which saved
the flock from one, who would neither have
" healed that which was sick, nor bound up that
which was broken, nor sought that which was lost."

Note. — In the summer of 1H26, XefFpaid a visit to the Wal-
denses of the Valleys of Piemont. He did not bring away an
opinion entirely favourable to their spiritual condition. To those
who are inclined to pass severe sentence upon the Vaudois,
because they are not all that they ought to be, and who judge
of the whole community from a few degenerate descendants of
that noble race of confessors and martyrs, I would recommend a
perusal of the following remarks, from the conclusion of Captain
Cotton's Letter, published in the ninth report of the Continental
Society : —

" I should be sorry indeed, if, in informing the committee of
what fell under my observation, and of the opinion I have thence
formed of the state of religion in the valleys, it should in any
degree contribute to stop the current of charity from England :
there is much need of foreign assistance. It is of the first neces-
sity that the schoolmasters should be qualified to instil ideas
with the lessons they teach the children ; a better pay should be
attached to their situations in the hamlets, and they should be
themselves instructed. It will be very difiicult to find spiritually-
minded men proposing to themselves the glory of the Redeemer,
in bringing little children to believe on him. They may, how-
ever, be trained to follow a good system, and watched over ; and

CHAMPSAUR. 179

to God must be left the increase. Far from me be the desire to
weaken the charitable feeling existing ^^^th regard to the Vaudois ;
they have, on many grounds, a claim to our sympathy : for their
fathers' sake, from whom I believe evangelical light penetrated
into England ; for the long period in which they were witnesses
for the truth in times of repose as well as of persecution ; for the
manifest favour with which God has regarded them in the most
critical circumstances of their history ; for their former mis-
sionary spirit, their poverty, and their civil disabilities. It has
been insinuated, that the pastors are enemies to the truth ; I
witnessed no such thing. It does not appear that they took any

steps to drive ^lessrs. and from the valleys. They

must have been denounced for admitting strangers into their
pulpits ; those two ministers were prevented from preaching any
longer by an order from government, and consequently left the
valleys. Their visit was not without some degree of fruit : a

brother of Mr. , to whom I am indebted for an introduction

to several pastors, and four or five other converts to the faith.
They meet occasionally to edify each other, at the house of an

excellent man, Mr. , a retired pastor. If the spirit of true

religion is become cold, the effects of the religious state of their
forefathers have not ceased to be visible. The Vaudois are far
superior in moral character to the Roman Catholic inhabitants ;
they are from ancient habit, honest, civil, and quiet ; and from
their situation and necessity, simple and laborious : it is highly to
their credit, that they took no part in the late revolution, although
emissaries were sent into the mountains to seduce them. Should
foreign assistance be withdrawn, the light still twinkling amid
the snows of the Alps may expire ; they may not long resist the
encroachments of the Church of Rome, now exerting herself in
every quarter to bring again the Cliristian world into the same
subjection as in ancient times ; whereas, by strengtliening tlie
Vaudois church, it may become, in more favourable circumstances,
an instrument for enlightening Italy, in which country, tliough
now there appears but a few gleaniijg grajjcs on the upixrniost
boughs, the fruit tluTcof may, hereafter, sliake like I.il)an(in."

N 2

CHAPTER VII.

Nejfs method and good imdcrsland'inir tvith the Roman Catholics
— Wis inter i-iav with a Roniisit priest — A faviihj sketch — The
convert oJArvicux — A dealh-hrd scene — The Mission — Con-
troversies— Anecdote — The Cure — Palons — The shepherdess
Manette.

Upon several important occasions, the pastor of
the High Alps obtained as much influence by the
sweetness of his temper, as by his firmness, and
by that kindness of manner which never deserted
him, however trying might be the juncture, in
which it w^as necessary to display it. We have
seen, that after the discussion with the Vaudois
minister, who was inclined to take himself away
in a pet, Neff's conciliatory deportment brouglit
him to his good humour, and they parted with
mutual feelings of respect and good will. It was
his second nature, if not his original disposition,
to suffer long and to be kind. His charity never
failed — it displayed itself in a thousand trifles, so
much so, that it oftentimes softened the animosity
of those wlio had most reason to be jealous of his
presence. As the Mahomedans and Hindoos
crowded round Heber in India, to hear his per-
suasive and mikl reasonings, when they would
have shrunk from angry polemics, so did Roman

THE ROMISH I'UIEST. 181

Catholics take delight in listemug to Neff's truly
Catholic discourses. The popish clergy lost many
of their flock during his sojournment in Dau-
phine, but it was some time before they resented his
proselyting exertions. When they were inclined
to give reins to their displeasure, his meekness
took the sting out of their indignation. He never
reviled them, or spoke disrespectfully of them — on
the contrary, he was forward to place even their
errors in the best light, and whenever he found
them labouring usefully at their posts, he gave
them their meed of praise. It once happened
that he preached at St. Laurent, in Champsaur,
on the day of the patron saint, a festival which, in
general, produces a great deal of dissolute con-
duct. On that occasion, however, the people
were more orderly, and there were fewer scenes
of drunkenness and disorder than usual. A note
in his Journal observes upon this, and attributes it
as much to the exertions of the cure, as to his
own, which were uniformly employed in promot-
ing the sanctity of the Sabbath. An interesting
j)r<)()r of tlic good footing uj)on which lie stood for
a long time with the priests of the other Cliurch,
occurred at Fressinierc in October of the year
now under notice, 1824. it cannot be better re-
lated than in liis own words.

" At Fressinien; a strange adNciilurc awaited
me. I \\a> iii\ile(l to -ii|) willi the priest, a iiio>l
fanatical and rude -oil ol |)ei>oii. It is some

18*2 THE UOMJSll PRIEST.

time since that the cure of Chancekis had re-
quested me to pay him a visit in his own parish,
which lies on my route. I went there, and we
passed several hours in serious conversation. He
afterwards accompanied me across the Durance.
This young man, wlio is full of good sense, and
well informed, appeared to have a perfect com-
prehension of the essential principles of the Gospel,
and did not depend upon the outward works of
devotion, or upon the intercession of the saints for
his acceptance with God, but he was a staunch
upholder of the sacrifice of the mass, and of the
hierarchy of the Roman Church. He had pressed
me very much to renew- my visit, but 1 had not
seen him again, until the time of which I am
going to speak. On this day he came to the
house of M. Barridon with the priest of Fressi-
niere. The latter is so intolerant, that every
body in the commune tliouglit that he w^ould
insult me, if we should ever meet, for he used to
revile the Protestants, and all that belonged to
them, in the most unsparing terms, and a hundred
times he has abused our people in the very gross-
est language, even at their own doors. I do not
know what he thought upon seeing me there, but
as he found that his colleague expressed some
friendship for me, he could not do otherwise than
conduct himself civilly ; and the cure of Chan-
celas having asked me, in his hearing, to visit
him, he thought he must exercise the same polite-

A FAMILY SKETCH. 183

ness. He therefore oave M. Barridoii and me
an invitation, and engaoed his brother of Chan-
celas to stay \vith liini till the next day. We went
to his house, and to our great surprise the conver-
sation was quite amicable, although we did not a))-
stain from religious topics. The good effect of this
interview was visible in the intercourse to which it
led between members of the two communions. W ho
would not have been astonished to see the priest
and the pastor discoursing quietly together !"

Many other instances might be selected from his
Journals, to show the good understanding which
long prevailed among the Roman Catholics and
Protestants in different parts of his parish, wliere
Bibles and Testaments were read and distributed
without interruption.

At a small hamlet near Arvieux, just below the
picturesque torrent and the Alpine bridge, which I
described in a preceding page, there was a family
consisting of an elder l)rother, a Protestant, who had
one son of the same faith ; a second brother, his
wife and children, Roman Catholics ; and a tliiid
brother, named James, an old bachelor and a l*ro-
testant. This family lived together in the greatest
harmonv, and the son of tin; elder brotlier married
a daM<:hter of the second. Their un(d(! .lames was a
reniarkablv intelligent man, and, going abonf the
(•ountr\ as a jn-dlar. lie jncked up all llieoldrelioiniis
books lie eiiiild la\ hi- IkukU upon, and noliodx
was better read than he in the histories ol the

184 A FAMILY SKKTCII.

reformation, and of the popes and councils. He
could recite with astonishing accuracy the dates
of councils, and of papal bulls and rescripts,
and was never so happy as wlien discussing mat-
ters of reliji'ion. Nell' had made acquaintance
with this man in the course of his rambles to
Mens and Grenoble, and was so pleased with his
conversation and his books, that he never passed
his house, in his way to or from the presbytery
at La Clialp, without calling upon him. This
gave him frequent opportunities of holding
serious discourse with the different members of the
family, and when he ' spoke to the Protestant
branches of it on the solemn duties incumbent on
them, the Roman Catholics never failed to listen
with marked attention. He prudently displayed
no anxiety to convert them ; but, by degrees, the
mother and dauohter beoan to enter into the
spirit of his pious and affectionate style of con-
versation, and exjjressed a desire to kuow^ more of
some of the books which were the frequent subject
of his observations. Two of these were the Bible,
and a translation of Doddridoe's Rise and Progress
of Religion in the Soul. The mother took one of
Neff's favourite volumes with her to her mountain
chalet, W'here she spent the summer with her
cattle, and during her solitary abode amidst the
gTandest works of creation, where nothing met her
eye but objects proclaiming the immensity and
majesty of the Eternal, she gi'ew utterly dissatisfied

THE CONVERT OF ARVIEUX. 185

with the limited views of Divine love and wisdom,
to wliich she had hitherto been confined, and
sighed for the liberty wherewith Christ could
make her free. When she returned to her cottage
by the torrent side, she made a point of inviting
her Roman Catholic friends to come in, whenever
Neff was likely to be paying them a visit, and
this went on for some time without any interrup-
tion or indication of sectarian jealousy. In the
end, the little family became one in faith, as they
had ever been one in affection, and some of their
neighbours of the other Church left the ministry
of the cure for that of the pastor. The conflicts
which some of these proselytes had with their
consciences, before they could find peace in Jesus
Christ, proved the sincerity of their conversion.
The account which Neff gives of one of them is
peculiarly interesting. It explains his method
with the Roman Catholics, and enables us to take
a fearful look into that abyss of despair, through
which the devout and sensitive mind has to pass,
before it can emerge from the darkness of Popery
to the clear light of Protestantism.

" Voii N\ill Dot h:ive forgotten the nanu' oi"

Maria , a young woman whose serious

maiin<:r I noticed more than a year atio. She is
now, like the sister of Lazarus, sitting at tht; feel of
J(;sus, but she has suJicrcd so much Itcfore she
cfdild reach thdii, th;il I ;iiii ;ih':ii(l \\\r new hii'lh
will I If at the co.-l oilier lilc She was Id'oiighl ii|» a

186 Tin: convert oi" akvieix.

Roman Catholic, but liaviiig married a Protestant,
she adopted her husband's faith. Not having yet
received the sacrament of the Lord's Supper, ac-
cording to the forms of our Church, I have given
lier the same instructions as my other catechumens,
and it is astonishing with what facility she has ac-
quired a knowledge of the subject. But when we
came to a personal application of the lessons, I ob-
served that she was most deeply aftected by a sense
of her condition. During the winter I had many
opportunities of seeing her, and every time I found
her more and more cast down. Her countenance
expressed great dejection, and she appeared to be
suffering from illness. Her mother entreated me
to visit her as often as I could. ' My poor Maria,'
said she, ' has no comfort but when you are here, —
at other times she is constantly w'eeping.' I tried
to have a private interview with her, but did not
succeed for a long time. One day her husband
said to me, in tears, ' My poor wife will die, I do
not know what is the matter with her ; she takes
no nourishment, and is melting away like the
snow.' I told him that I hoped this sickness was
not unto death, but for the glor^'^ of God, and
that he himself, and others, would be greatly
edified. The same evening Maria appeared more
sad than before, — she retired from us on the plea
of suffering some internal pain, and her mother
then told me that she complained of being unable
to pray ; tliat it was this which so distressed her,

THE CONVERT OT ARVIEIX. 187

and that slie was anxious to have some private
conversation witli me. This was the verv thing I
wished.

" ' Well, Maria,' I began, ' what makes you so
melancholy? what is the matter/

" ' I am lost !' she exclaimed.

" ' No doubt, you are lost, and we are all lost
by nature : but did not Christ come to seek and to
save that which is lost ? '

"' But it is three years since God first gra-
ciously imparted to me a sense of my lost con-
dition, I was all the winter as ill as I am now. I
wished for conversion, but I have thrown away
the means of grace. I have slumbered and slept,
like the foolish virgins of the parable. My hour
is gone by, and now my heart is hardened, and
God rejects me. God is just, I deserve it ! '

" This was said with all tlie calmness of de-
spair, and I was afraid that the terrible persuasion
had taken fast liold of her mind. I asked her,
whetlier at the first indication of a change in her
religious sentiments, there had been any body to
teach licr the way of salvation ; for how should
voii liiid il voiirsi'lf, said I. He not afraid, — to-
day is your hour — hithcrlo you have never fully
known the Ciood Shepherd !

" After this she seenic*! to b(! ri'lievcd from the
appn-he-nsion, that she had lost the favourable
season, hut >fill -iic \sas not assiiriil. || \\;i- in
\ain tiial 1 spoke; again and agani ol ( iod s mercy

188 THE CONVERT OF AUVIEUX.

in Jesus Christ. She told me that she could neither
rejient, nor believe, nor pray, as she ought, and that
Avlien she endeavoured to draw nigh unto God, a
spirit of blasphemy seemed to come across her. I
then suggested every consideration that I thought
would avail her, and affected to regard her state
as very natural and very common; I prayed with
licr : still she was not comforted. I conjured her,
in the most earnest and tender manner, to perse-
vere in supplications to God, through Jesus Christ :
and she promised that she would.

' ' The next day I spent part of the morning with
her, and returned several times in the course of
the days following, but always without success.
She was incapable of making any bodily exertion ;
she was suffering physically as well as mentally,
and literally watered her couch with her tears,
always complaining of the same thing, of her want
of proper contrition, and of her hardness of heart \
One day when I was going to leave her, she cried
out, ' If 3^ou depart, I shall die.' I was forced to
remain near her for some time, before her agitation
was over. She passed three or four months in
this afflicting condition, and though she has at
length experienced a sense of the mercy of her
God ; yet she is still depressed in spirits ; her
conscience is susceptible and alarmed by the least

' This was, no doubt, owing to her early education, and
dependance on the works of penance.

THE CONVERT OF ARVIEUX. 189

symptom of sin. One day, when some yonng-
girls were frolicking- around her, one of them ex-
claimed, ' Maria, why do not you laugh as we do ? '
She replied, l)ut with great sweetness, ' I prefer
my sadness to your mirth.' She has with diffi-
culty picked up a little strength, but she is still
very weak. The soul is consuming the body. I
have never seen any one so deeply affected, so
enlightened, and yet so simple at the same time.
A younger sister of her's, who, up to this period,
was a devoted Roman Catholic, but full of levity,
has now begun to think seriously of her own re-
sponsibilit}^ and to display an increasing repug-
nance against the Romish worship. I asked her
one day, ' Do you think that the priest, or the
pope himself, can give you a dispensation of con-
version, as he grants you a dispensation to eat
meat ? Can he dispense with what is recpiired by
Jesus Christ, the new birth ? Do not deceive your-
self, it is written, except a man be born again,
he cannot see the kingdom of God !' "

I am happy to be able to add some infoniiatiou '
to tliis affecting account, which Neff's Journals do
not supply. It pleased the God of hope to fill

Maria with all joy and peace in believing,

and, at length sIk.' a]>oiMided in hope, throiigli llie
power of tlic holy (ihost. In August, IH'J!), al'icr
Neffs return to S\\ it/crlaiid, to rcci'uit \\'\> >li;it-
tt Ted liciilill. lit' licurd III the -iitldcli (|(;itli of

' Collected from " Notice sur IVIix Nell."

190 A DF.ATII BED SCENE.

Maria's inotlicr, who, ^vitll her sisters, had be-
come sincere converts to the Protestant faith. The
pastor wrote a letter of condolence to the afflicted
family, in which he declared that he had rarely
experienced any grief equal to that which he suf-
fered on learning this mournful news. " The
good Madeline, who was so kind in her attentions
to me, who had so much sympathy for the sorrow
of others ; who received the servants of the Lord
with so much joy and love, and wlio had such
pleasure in listening to the word of life, am I then
never to meet her again in this world ! But why
should I thus wound your heart and my own ? Is
it for us, the inheritors of an incorruptible and
heavenly crown, to afflict ourselves, and to be
sorry as men without hope ? " This letter brought
an answer, written by Maria, assisted by her bro-
ther, in which she gave the following relation of
the sufferino's and death of her mother, from
which we gather the consolatory assurance, that
the pastor's proselyte fell asleep in Jesus, and that
her children enjoy the peace which passeth under-
derstanding.

" My mother's illness only lasted seven days,
but it was exceedingly violent. It was an inflam-
mation of the bowels, attended with a tormenting
cholic, which never allowed her to have an hour's
rest during the whole of that time. We saw from
the first that there was no hope, and talked to her
of her approaching end. She used to reply to us

A DEATH DED SCENE. 191

M itli a smile full of hope and joy. Have you no-
thing to attach you to earth ? we asked. No,
she replied, with a serene air ; all that this world
contains, passeth away ! And have you no fears,
at the thouoht of enterino- into a new existence,
and appearing hefore the Judge Eternal ? She
joined her hands together, and raised her eyes to
lieaven, and then replied : No, there is nothing
to fear, Jesus Christ is my atonement and inter-
cessor. I rely upon his promises, and therefore I
desire to depart, and to be with Christ !" She
often blessed God for having sent you to announce
the glad tidings of redemption through Jesus
Christ, and invoked the heavenly benediction
upon your body and soul. When her strength
was almost gone, she said to us : I cannot pray
aloud — pray for me, my children ; pray that the
Lord may increase my faith. She pointed out
this verse of an hymn, which she asked to have
repeated to her.

Vois ramc criniinellc
A tcs picds, Difu Sauvcur!
DaigiK- jt'tcr sur clle
Un regard dc favour.

" Soon after, slie exclaimed, ' I know in whom I
have believed. We is faitlifid to keej) llial which
is committed unto liim. I ;ini weak, hut lie is
.strong.' I'pon another occasion, she said to us : -
' M\' childicn, do n'»f weep; ofl'ei* u|i \()ui" ])ravers

192 A DEATH BED SCENE.

to the Saviour for comfort, and he will not forsake
you. 1 am happy, I shall only precede you a
little ; you will rejoin me, and we shall meet again
in the presence of God.' At a crisis, when her
pains were very great, I said to her, you are suf-
fering severely, my dear mother. She answered,
' The sufferings of my Redeemer were much
greater.' Then you have a Hriii assurance in his
promises now, even in the valley of the shadow of
death. ' Yes, Jesus Christ is my support. He
has swallowed up death in victory.' She then
made a last effort to join her hands, and lifting
up her eyes to heaven, she uttered in broken sen-
tences : — ' Thy cross. Thy blood, — Thy death,
Jesus, are — my support !' These, my beloved
and respected pastor, were my mother's last
words. She gave me her two hands, and while I
was praying aloud, her soul quitted its earthly
tenement and mounted to heaven. I heard no-
thing around me but weeping and sighing ; every
thing was sad and mournful, but he who is rich
in mercy, poured out his consolations, and helped
us to be resigned to his will. For myself he has
made me feel assured, that my dear mother is
happy in his bosom, and that I shall soon be with
her there. Sadness has given place to joy. I
must tell you, that since my mother's death, my
father has been more attentive to the Word of
God, and thinks more about his soul. He listens
with pleasure when we tell him of the Saviour.

THE MISSION. 193

He goes with us to the temple. Oh ! what a
happy clay it will be for me, if, in losing my mo-
ther for a short time, I shall obtain my father for
eternity. Pray for us that it may be so.

" Your devoted sister in Jesus Christ,

" Maria .*'

The reader will perceive in this simple narra-
tive of a death-bed scene, not the wild sentiments
of an enthusiast, but the calm piety of a Christian,
and he will say, if such were Neff 's pupils and
converts, what must their instructor have been !

But atleno;th the " The Mission'" disturbed the
harmony that had hitherto reigned between the
Protestants and the Roman Catholics. Some of
the members of the Mission marshalled ostenta-
tious processions, preached incendiary sermons,
and pursued such effectual means of exciting an
angry and bigoted feeling against the Protestants,
that many of the Romanists declined holding any
intercourse with them as heretofore, and even
crossed themselves whenever they passed a house
in wliicli I^rotestants were dwelling. The Mission,
is the name under which a religious movement
commenced in France in IHIJ), and continued till
the revolution of .Inlv, 1^30, with the sanction
and assistance of the government, and iindci' ili<^
direction of ecclesiastics and ollicrs, who turinrd
themselves into a religions order. Tlie perxms
wlio were eni|)lo\((l in tlie work ol re\i\ing llie

o

194 THE MISSION.

spirit of tlie Roman Catliolic religion, were selected
tor their zeal and eloquence, and, as they went
from town to town, and in some parts from village
to village, instructing and confessing the people,
it is astonishing what effects were produced by
the coml)ined influence of example, exhortation,
and authority. They erected colossal crosses,
beautifully carved and gilt, on conspicuous spots —
they made the circuits of streets and hamlets at
the head of splendid processions, swelled by
priests and other ecclesiastics gorgeously arrayed^,
and bearing costly banners flaunting and glitter-
ing in the sun, and by such of the population as
cauo'ht the infection of their ardour ; and the
multitude thus composed, made the air resound
with their penitential psalms, or sighs and groans
of contrition. At the churches decorated with
tapestry, at favourite shrines expensively orna-
mented, and before crucifixes of enormous magni-
tude, the procession would halt, and some gifted
preacher would stand forth and address the con-
gregated thousands, in language best calculated
to promote the interests of the Romish faith. If
piety revived under the influence of these impres-
sive solemnities, so unhappily did fanaticism, and

' " And the woman was arrayed in purple and scarlet colour,
and decked with gold and precious stones, and pearls, having a
golden cup in her hand. And I saw the woman drunken with
the blood of the saints, and with the blood of the martyrs of
Jesus." — Rev. xvii. 4. 6.

THE MISSION. 195

as heresy was frequently branded by these peri-
patetic preachers as something; worse tlian infide-
lity, the lower orders among the papists were
excited to acts of violence against the Protestants,
which made some of the latter tremble for their
lives, and anticipate a recurrence of former suffer-
ings. The peaceful hamlets, which composed
Neff's parish, were greatly disturbed by the Mis-
sion ; some few weak and wavering brothers were
scared into abjuring the creed of their ancestors,
who had died martyrs to their faith ; and instances
were known, not only of Roman Catholics being
compelled by their priests to burn their copies of
Scripture, but of Protestants committing venera-
ble Bibles to the flame, under the influence of
terror, which had escaped the worst of times, and
had been transmitted to them, as the only pos-
session which their forefathers had been able to
preserve, amidst the wreck of all their little pro-
perty.

What presumption in man, to dare to put a
stop to the free course of God's own word ! Be
the reason, the sophistry, the pretext what it may,
which would render the Bible a sealed book, or a
prohibited book, or a book which is to be read
under certain limitations, tlie upsliot of the con-
trol, and the meaning of the authority which so
presumes, is this : — " We desire you to acct pi our

crecMl ; l)clic\c wliaf wr believe. 'I'lie IViMe con-
tains the exposition of the laitli | impose, I to \()ii,

o 2

196 THE MISSION.

we derive all our own knowledge from it. But
you must not read what we read ; it is inexpe-
dient to open to you the fountain from which we
derive our knowledge. We do not permit you to
consult those pages indiscriminately, or to read
them without our guidance and interpretation."
What an insult to man's understanding ! And
yet with all this real hostility to the Bible, and
practical prohibition of it, some Roman Catholics
deny that the Bible is prohibited by their Church.
Do they deny the validity of canons of councils ?
What will they say to the following ?

" We forbid any of the laity to have in their
possession the books of the Old or New Testa-
ment \"

In England the Romish priesthood withhold
these tell-tale prohibitions of their Church, but in
France, at the period of which I am speaking,
the Mission openly proclaimed them.

" Some of our poor Protestants are extremely
dejected by these proceedings," complained the
pastor in his Journal. " They are looking for me
in some of my villages with great anxiety, for it
has been reported that I too have turned Papist."
They had not to wait long, for no sooner did NefF
hear that his presence was necessary in any part
of his parish, than he immediately repaired thither,
and though all his circuits were performed on

' Fourteenth canon of the eleventh council of Tholouse.

THE MISSION. U)7

foot, and in the suninier the drought consumed
him, and in the winter the frost, yet no apprehen-
sion of fatigue or difficulty ever arrested his steps.
In consequence of the excitement caused by the
Mission, he felt it to be his duty to be still more
vigilant and active. " The Lord," said he, in
one of his letters from tlie High Alps, " has per-
mitted me to have the unspeakable joy of seeing
some of the Romish Church awakened, and leav-
ing their broken cisterns, to go to the real fountain
of living waters. Not that we have easy access
to the houses of the Roman Catholics ; — a Pro-
testant, and especially a minister, finds many
impediments in the way of declaring the Gospel,
for besides the prejudices they entertain, it is
impossible to enter into any religious conversa-
tion, but they forthwith give it a controversial
turn, the result of which is rarely satisfactory to
either party. In these mountains the officiating
clergy are young priests, exclusive in their notions,
and strongly embued with the spirit of the Jesuits,
in whose seminaries they have Ijeen educated.
The Missions, the jubilee, and other exciting
causes, have successively revived fanaticism in a
region, which was previously too niucli tlie scene
of intolerance and superstition." But neither the
pastor, nor flic more euli^liteiicd iiiciubers of his
flock, suspended I heir (•\t'rti(m> : ulirrc flic tiniid
shrunk fi-oni flic open a\()\\;il of tlicir -cntiniciits,
tlie br)](l, and -iidi ii*^ wci'c IriiK ;iii\ioii- tor flic

\9S CONTROVERSIES.

salvation of otliers, came resolutely forward, and
seized every opportunity of giving their testimony
to the truth, in the house, — by the way-side, — and
even in the presence of the Roman Catholic
priests. Their appeals came with all the force of
sound sense, and were irresistibly supported by
their ready (quotation of Scripture. In Champ-
saur, the Protestants were greatly in the minority,
as far as numbers were concerned, but there were
two or three sturdy champions of the cause, who
were a host of themselves ; and fortunately the
cure there, though he was a most bigoted Papist,
had not fortified himself with any polemical
weapons, either from reason or Scripture, which
were a match for the offensive and defensive
armour of his adversaries. One day, when this
cure ventured to ask a Protestant, " Upon what
do you build your belief, since you have no autho-
rity for your faith ?"

" Upon the Bible," was the reply : "if the
apostles had left behind them any infallible suc-
cessors, it would have been unnecessary to be-
queath to us so many instructions in writing !"

"The apostles! and why are you to place
greater reliance on the apostles, than on their
successors ?"

Because the apostles were inspired by the Holy
Ghost."

" Well ; and we too are inspired !"

" Are you inspired ?"

CONTROVERSIES. 199

'' Yes ! I repeat, we too are inspired !"

" Then why do you require to be further in-
structed in the college of the Jesuits?"

The priest was routed.

Upon another occasion, when a young woman
of the valley of Queyras was questioned by a
Romish priest upon the object of her faith and
hope, and when she constantly made the same
reply, and reverently named Jesus Christ, as the
ground of her faith and hope, the cure exclaimed
impatiently, " Jesus Christ ! It is always Jesus
Christ ! do you think, then, that Jesus Christ is
every thing to you V

The vouno- woman answered with a meekness
and solemnity which silenced her interrogator.
" Yes; every thing is Jesus Christ — who of God
is made unto us wisdom, and righteousness, and
sanctification, and redempticm, that, according as
it is written, he that giorieth, let him glory in
the Lord."

A few days afterwards, the cure, before several
witnesses, returned to the contest, and among
other things, took upon himself to declare, tliat all
sins were not mortal. He named the sins wliicli
he called exclusively mortal, and then proceed(.'d
to argue himself right by analogy and by autho-
rity, and afterward- I;miiic1i<'(1 out in (Icfciicc ot
purgatorv, iiHluigtiiccs, ike. Tli(i young woMiaii
asked him to t<'ll li«i\ ii Jl"- -in ol" Adam, wliicb

'JUO CllANCELAS.

the cure had not contrived to include in the list of
his mortal sins, was mortal or venial ? " •>

This was too much for the controY'Crsialist.
Taken bj^ surprise, but yet perceiving the horns
of the dilemma between which he was so ridicu-
lously stuck, and aware of the consequences of
answering such a question, he wisely replied that
he would give an answer another time.

Chancelas is a lovely village at the entrance of
the valley of Fressiniere, where the mountains form
a splendid panorama, whose vine-clad sides stretch
on one side down to the Durance, and where the
little hamlets, divided by ravines and torrents, are
seen rising out of forests of larch trees. This
village was often the scene of triumph to NefF
and his converts, and the priests of that parish
had the mortification of seeing many of their
flock fall away from them, and become proselytes
to the powerful reasoning of the Swiss preacher.
There was a family here, anciently Protestant,
which had been forming connexions among the
Roman Catholics, until they eventually deserted
the worship of their ancestors, and went to mass.
Upon the opening of the new church of Violins,
the head of this family and two of his younger sons
attended the service, and from that time, the young
men regularly waited upon Neff's ministry, both
public and private, and one of them attached him-
self closely to the pastor, and manifested the most

ANECDOTE. 201

devoted fidelity both to his person and his doc-
trines, lu his journeys from one valley to another,
Neff frequently passed through Chancelas, and
visited this family, but the elder son and his wife,
invariably left the house, whenever he entered it,
and continued to express a rude dislike, which was
obvious to all. It so happened, that this man,
whom nothing- could persuade to listen to Net!',
was persuaded to go and hear a friend of Neff 's,
who preached at Palons. He returned home full
of what he had been hearing, and as soon as he
entered the house, he exclaimed to his wife, " we
are lost if we neglect this way of salvation." The
woman was moved by his earnestness, and from
that time the pastor was no longer treated with
rudeness or neglect, but his conversation was
eagerly sought fjr, and his persuasions were so
forcible, that the whole family returned to the
bosom of the Protestant communion. Many
people of the same village followed this example,
and though the distance was very considerable
from the church at Violins, all the new converts
regularly attended public service whenever it was
performed. This movement was becoming so
general at Chancelas before iSetl s health faili'd
him, that it was thought necessary to send another
cure tlierc to produce a i-e-actioii : but the \io-
lence and intolerance of this pers(jn confirnKMl the
sensation, which was beginning to he f'eh, and

a(|(le(| to the liuniher oftiiose wlio (|Uc>lion((l ihr

202 CONVERSIONS.

infallibility ot" the Romish Church. Neff supplied
several of the converts with Martin's edition of
the New Testament, which is printed with refer-
rences in the margin to parallel passages, and by
the help of these, they used to turn to a variety of
corresponding and confirmatory passages, when
the priests told them that the texts they quoted,
were only solitary passages which admitted of ex-
planation.

I was assured, when I was on the spot, two
years after NefF's departure, that the flame kindled
by him was still spreading, and that Chancelas
was likely to become one of the most zealous
Protestant villages in the whole region. But
Chancelas was not the only place where his per-
suasive eloquence made converts. In Val Quey-
ras he was equally successful, and upon an occa-
sion when it was thought that he had quitted the
country, the cures triumphantly announced the
event from their pulpits. The priest of one of the
parishes invited his people to bless God for hav-
ing removed such a ravening wolf from their fold.
" But that poor priest," said Neff, when he heard
of it, " was ignorant that none can overturn the
work which proceeds from God, and that it can
support itself without the assistance of the first in-
struments, who laboured at it. In fact, three per-
sons of his flock left it, after I went away, to join
that of Jesus Christ, and, but a little while before,
the younger sister of one of my converts did the

MARIETTE. 203

same, and several proselytes, who had hitherto
been timid, now openly declared themselves."

The narrative of Neft's labours, and of his suc-
cessful efforts with the Roman Catholics in the
High Alps, might be enriched with many more
details of this kind, but I think it will be enough
to bring this part of the relation to a conclusion,
witli the mention of an incident which he himself
made known to the world during his life, by trans-
mitting an account of it to one of the periodical
publications of his oyni country. The two vil-
lages of Palons and Chancelas, the scene of seve-
ral of the pastor's most interesting conversions,
lie contiguous to each other at the entrance of the
valley of Fressiniere. Palons is at the very neck
of the defile, and the rocks which overhang " the
peasants' nests" command a beautiful prospect
both of the valley, which draws up narrower and
narrower, as the traveller advances towards Dor-
milleuse, and of the country which opens down
towards the waters of the Durance.

One day NefF met, at Palons, a little shep-
herdess, of twelve or tliirteen years of age, whose
air and language struck him with surprise. In
answer to his inquiries about her, he was tohl
that her name was Mariette Guyon, and that slic
lived ill iIk; adjacent lianild ol' Piin;iv<'r N\itli Iht
grandfatlu r and <ir;iii(lin()th<i'. wlio were Roman
Catholics ; that sh<' liad expressed great anxiety
to be in>truf1c(l in the true ])rinc'i])h's of the (ios-

204 MAHIHTTi:.

|)el, and that tlicy could not attribute this desire
merely to human influence, and to the persuasions
of Protestant acquaintances, for she was not per-
mitted to associate with Protestants. He asked
the child if she could read ? She burst into tears,
and said, " Oh ! if they would only let me come
here to the Sunday-school, I should soon learn,
but they tell me that I already know too much."
The pastor's interest was further excited, by learn-
ing that what little she knew of the difference
between the religion of the two churches was
picked up by accident, and by stealthy conversa-
tions with the converts of the neighbourhood.

After his first short interview with the poor girl,
he remained some time without hearing any thing
more of her. In the interval, she was deprived of
all regular means of improvement, but her zeal
made her find out a very ingenious expedient.
She often kept her flock near a very rocky path
which descended to the valley of Fressiniere, and
when she saw a peasant pass, she would accost
him in her patois, and ask " Where do you come
from ?" If he named a Catholic village, she said
no more, and let him pass on. If he came from
a Protestant hamlet, she approached him, and put
questions to him ', and if he displayed any zeal,

* Literally did this child obey the Divine precept, " Stand ye
in the paths and see, and ask for the old paths, where is the
good way, and walk therein, and ye shall find rest for your
souls." Jeremiah vi. IG.

MARIETTE. '205

and knowledge of the Gospel, she wonld keep
him as long as he would good-naturedly remain,
and treasure up all that she heard from his lips.
At other times she would make friends with Pro-
testant children, who were watching their sheep
or goats near her, and would beg them to bring
their Testaments, and read and translate to her.
This went on until she saw that she was watched
by some of the Roman Catholics, and was obliged
to be more cautious. During the long and rigour-
ous winter, which followed after Neff first saw
her, the mountains were buried in snow, and the
people could not go out of their villages, therefore
Mariette had no intercourse with those wdiose
conversation she so much desired to cultivate.
Notwithstanding her faith was strengthened and
her mind enlightened, and on the return of spring
she positively refused to go to mass. In vain
they attempted to force her Ijy ill-usage. Her
father was then appealed to, and first tried rigour-
ous means, and then persuasion, to engage her to
declare from whence she o])tained what lie called
" these new ideas." She persisted in declaring
that God alone had first put these things in her
lieart, and expressed herself with so luucli meek-
ness and solemnity, in e.xplaiiatiou ol' the molivcs
l)V which she was actuated, flial hci- faflicr felt
constrained to say to those wlio iii'^cd liim lo evert
liis authorifv, " ^^ ln) am I, to ojjpoM- iiiv>»'H to
(lod r' liiif lie Irl't Ii( r -till under fill' cMiT of licr

206 MARIETTE.

g;raiulfatlicr and orandinother, who continued to
ill-treat her, although without success.

The pastor shall now tell the continuation of
the stoiy himself. " Some time after I had
learnt all these particulars, I was going to Palons,
accompanied by a young man, and Madeleine
Pellegrine, a most humble and zealous disciple of
Jesus Christ. Whilst stopping near the bridge
and cascade of Rimasse, which precipitates itself
into a deep abyss, we saw a flock of lambs, which
appeared to be hastily driven toward us by a
young shepherdess. It was Mariette, who had
recognized us from a distance, and who ran up to
us breathless with joy. She expressed in lan-
guage which it is impossible to describe, how
happy she was at meeting me. I requested Ma-
deleine to watch the flock while I conversed with
Mariette. She thanked me with affectionate
earnestness for the visit I had made to her father
in her behalf. She spoke of what she had sufl'ered
for the Gospel, in a manner so Christian and so
touching, that I could hardly believe my ears,
knowing that the poor child did not know even the
letters of the alphabet. ' It is this,' she said,
' that gives me pain ; the evil spirit tempts me,
by insinuating that I resist in vain, and that I
am too young and feeble to persevere : but when
I suffer most, then the good God supports me, and
I fear nothing. They want me to make the sign
of the cross ; they wish to drag me to mass, and
1

MARIETTE. 207

because I refuse, they beat me ; and wlien they
have beaten me for the name of Jesus Christ, and
see that I do not cry, but rejoice in his name,
then they become furious, and beat me still more ;
but \vere they to kill me, I would not cry, since
the good God streng*thens me.' She uttered
many things equally affecting. When she left
me, she went to join another young shepherdess,
a Protestant, w4th whom she oftentimes kept her
flock, and who attended the Sunday-school for
both of them, for she repeated to Mariette verses
from the Psalms, and passages from the New
Testament, which she had learnt there. A short
time afterwards I held a reunion near Punayer,
which Mariette attended ; it was the first time she
had ever been present at Protestant worship. She
blessed God, who had inspired her with the cou-
rage to do so, and appeared most attentive to the
sermon and the prayers, which were in French,
though most probably she was unable to com-
prehend more than a small part of the service,
not understanding any language but the moun-
tain patois. Not daring to return to Punaver, after
this, she went to her father, and confessed to him
all that had occurred : he received her kindly,
and took her back to her grandfather and grand-
niotlicr, and strenuously forbade tliciii to ill-fn-at
her for licr religious oj)iiiions. "^Fhis was some-
thing gained, but not sulhricnt for Ik r ; she earn-
• ■>flv entreated him to rdlovv iicr to attend tlic

'208 MARIETTE.

j)iil)lic worship ; her constant pnayer during the
week was, that God woukl dispose her father to
grant her permission. Her prayers were heard,
and the Sunday following, we had the joy of see-
ing her come to our temple at Violins, a long way
from her home. She was received with every
demonstration of joy, and a poor man of Minsas,
who had married an aunt of her's, promised to
take her to his own house, if they would trust her
with him, during the winter, and that he would
there teach her to read, and instruct her more
perfectly in the truths of the Gospel."

Mariette's perseverance triumphed over the
prejudices of her family. She was permitted to
receive instruction, and to attend the public ser-
vices of the Protestant Church, and her singular
history having reached the ears of some friends at
Mens, they begged her father to be allowed to
take charge of her, and her education was con-
ducted under auspices which give us every rea-
son to believe, that she is now a bright ornament
of the community, whose faith she thus embraced
from the strongest conviction of its purity.

CHAPTER VIII.

Neff's self-denial — Reminiscences in Val Fressiniere and Val
Queyras — The Alpine jmsto/s duties and mode of life —
Passion week in Dormilleuse and Val Fressiniere.

The active life, which Neff led, must have been
continually bringing scenes of great interest under
his notice. I have before observed, that he was
an ardent lover of nature, from his very boyhood,
and an enthusiastic admirer of those, who had
distinguished themselves, by achievements above
the ordinary level of human daring and persever-
ance. And yet, though he was in the province
which is the very land of interesting recollections,
and every excursion, from one hamlet to another,
conducted him over ground famous in history
or romance, it is very rarely that his Jour-
nals or correspondence contain any allusion to
subjects unconnected with the great oliject before
him. Occasionally we see a sj)arkling of the early
spirit which animated him, but before it can kin-
dle into aflame, it is suppressed by his self-deny-
ing resolntion to know nothing but Jesus Christ,
and liiiii ciiicititMl. I'^xcn in little tliin<j,s, lie
seems to \ii\.\v l»een excr keepiii;j^^ liim^elt under,
and fixing a steady eye upon the great object ol"

1'

'210 NEFF's SELF-DENIAL.

his life. One tUiy he had been traversing one of
tliose glorious Alpine summits, where the purity
of the air, and the magnificence of the view, and
the buoyancy of feeling so peculiar to mountain
scenery, are enjoyed to a degree of exhilaration,
which none can imagine, but tliose who have ex-
perienced them, and naturally enough he felt in-
clined to describe his sensations, when he was writ-
ing down the incidents of the day. But he had
scarcely penned his first expression of pleasure,
before he checked himself, and substituted for the
intended apostrophe of delight, a remark on what
he considered to be the more proper contempla-
tion of a servant of God, who must have no eye
but to his Master's service.

It is necessary to explore the valleys of the
Durance and the Guil, and the Ubaye, and of
their tributary torrents, and to be well acquainted
with the events which still live in the traditions of
the natives, to appreciate that forbearance which
the pastor exercised, when he abstained from mix-
ing up any common place topics in that religious
diary, from which I have principally drawn the
materials of which this memoir is composed. He
could not pass a defile, which had not been the
scene of fierce conflict : every mountain side had
rung with the din of arms, in defence of religious
liberty, — and every cottage which he entered
was the dwelling of a family, who had some me-
mento to show, or some story to tell, of the sufi'er-

HISTORICAL REMINISCENCES. 211

ings or exploits of an ancestor in support of that
cause, which he himself came to uphold, though
with weapons of a very ditferent warfare. In the
valley of Fressiniere, the famous Duke de Les-
diguieres, constable of France, left enterprises on
record, which are still the theme of every moun-
taineers praise. In Val Queyras, the strong
passes which guard the frontiers of Italy were
garrisoned by Neff's own countrymen, the Swiss,
who, in the stirring times of Francis the First,
occupied the Col de la Croix, and all the practi-
cable defiles on the mountain border, and com-
pelled the French monarch, when he menaced
Piemont, to attempt a passage across the Alps,
by a route which had never before been attempted
by any body of armed men. This route lay
through that part of Neff's parish whicli was be-
tween Guillestre and the Col D'Argentiere. None
but the chamois hunter, or the contraband adven-
turer, had ever traversed the mountain path, by
which the chivalry of France then pushed their
way into tli(; j)laiiis of Piemont. How different
was tlio object which led Netf to the deep and
drearv ravines, whicii once rung with the din of
pioneers levelling the rocks, cutting down trees to
throw bridges across the torrents, and widening
the sIk'pIkmnIs paths lur the passage of artillery.
The I'oinaiitic (■(iiira'ji' <»l the I rciich h'adcr- I'lid
soldiers, which was not to lie -uh(hii«l hy the dif-
firultif'<s oftiicir »'nler|)ii-e, lias hern flie iheuir f»f

I' 'J

21*2 THE ALPINE PASTORS DUTIES.

many a page of eulogy. That tlicy slioiild have
braved " the rushing cataracts, the falling ava-
lanches, the hoarse roar of the mountain winds,
which, pent within the rocky walls, might have
been imao-ined to utter forebodino;s and maledic-
tions, and the appalling accidents by which men
and cattle were lost,*' — has been the admiration of
the world ever since ! How much more ought
we to admire the fortitude of our pastor of the Alps,
who often braved all these horrors alone, with none
by his side to encourage him, or to share his dan-
gers. Not only at a favourable season of the year,
but in winter ; amidst snow and sleet beating in
his face, many times did he scale those summits,
and cross the torrents, as a messenger of peace.

Neff's second winter in the French Alps was
spent very much like the first, for the season was
mild and open, and he shifted his ground from
hamlet to hamlet, and from house to house,
accordingly as he found his presence necessarj'^
to strengthen the weak, or to confirm the strong.
His journeyings, in the frequent tour of his
parish, rendered his life a migratory one in the
full sense of the word, and all that our own
George Herbert imagined and recommended in
his '' Country Parson," was realized in the pastor
of the High Alps, save his contemplations on
" the parson in his house." He had so much to
do out of doors, and away from his own habita-
tion, that home duties, as well as home pleasures,

NEFF ON HIS CIRCIIT. 'J 13

are to be excluded from the list. But we behold
in him, '' The parson in circuit," — '* The parson
in journey," — " The parson comforting," — "The
parson in sentinel, " — " The parson catechizing,'"
— " The parson's completeness." It was not on
Sunday only, that he went the round of his
churches, but he was ever visiting now one
quarter, and then another : and happy did they
esteem themselves at whose table he sat down,
and under whose roof he lodged for the nioht.
When his arrival was expected in certain hamlets,
wliose rotation to be visited was supposed to be
coming round, it was beautiful to see the cottages
send forth their inhabitants, to watch the coming
of tlie beloved minister. " Come, take your
dinner with us." — " Let me prepare your supper."
— " Permit me to give up my bed to you," — were
re-echoed from many a voice, and though there
was nothing in the repast which denoted a feast-
day, yet never was festival observed with greater
rejoicing than by those, whose rye-bread and
pottage were shared by the pastor Neff. Some-
times, when tlie old people of one cabin were
standing at their doors, and straining tlieir eyes
to catch the first view of their " guide to heaven,"
tlie youngsters of another were perclu'd ou ilic
siiiiiiiiil of a rock. ;iii(l stealing a jirospcct which
would afford ihciii an carlitT >iglil of liim, and
give tlieiii tilt' opportiiiiit\ ol ollcriii'^ (he lirsl
iuNitatioii. Ii wa- on lhe.>e occasions, thai ln'

214 NEFF ON HIS CIRCUIT,

obtained a perfect knowledge of the people, ques-
tionino' them about such of their domestic con-
cerns as he might be supposed to take an inte-
rest in, as well as about their spiritual condition,
and finding where he could be useful both as a
secular adviser and a religious coimsellor. "Could
all their children read ? Did thej^ understand
Mdiat they read ? Did they offer up morning and
evening prayers ? Had they any wants that he
could relieve ? Any doubts that he could remove ?
Any afflictions wherein he could be a comforter?"
It was thus that he was the father of his flock,
and master of their affections and their opinions ;
and when the seniors asked for his blessing, and
the children took hold of his hands or his knees,
he felt all the fatigue of his long journeys pass
away, and became recruited with new strength.
But for the high and holy feelings which sustained
him, it is impossible that he could have borne up
against his numerous toils and exposures, even
for the few months in which he thus put his con-
stitution to the trial. Neither rugged paths, nor
the inclement weather of these Alps, which would
change suddenly from sunshine to rain, and from
rain to sleet, and from sleet to snow : nor snow
deep under foot, and obscuring the view when
dangers lay thick on his road ; nothing of this
sort deterred him from setting out, with his staff
in his hand, and his wallet on his back, when he
imagined that his duty summoned him. I have

NEFF ON HIS CIRCUIT. 215

been assured by those who have received him
into their houses at such times, that he has come
in chilly, wet, and fatigued ; or exhausted by heat,
and sudden transitions from excessive heat to
piercing cold, and that after sitting down a few
minutes, his elastic spirits would seem to renovate
his sinking frame, and he would enter into dis-
course with all the mental vigour of one wlio was
neither weary nor languid.

When he was not resident at the presbytery,
he was the guest of some peasant, who found him
willing to live as he lived, to make a scanty meal
of soup-maigre, often without salt or bread, and
to retire to rest in the same apartment, where a
numerous family were crowded together, amidst
all the inconveniences of a dirty and smoky hovel.
The people of Arvieux and La Chalp were rather
dissatisfied with the small share which they had
of his company and ministrations. They thought
that the habitation, which was provided for him
in their commune, gave them a greater claim to
his services than any other portion of his j)arish-
ioners, and one day, w licii he was preparing to take
a journey to a distanit hamlet, they remonstrated
very earnestly with him, and com])laiuc(l that he
did not make the presbytery his home. The j)as-
tor endeavoured to exj)lain to them, that tiiey
could not rciisoiiabU rxjicct liiiii t(» (IcNoIr iiutre

(j\' \[\> time to tin-Ill. lIlJill lo till' n-t (il tlir |)o|)ll-

lation ; tlial lie imi-l ili\ i<l<' his >crv ico acconliiiu-

'il() NEFF ON HIS CIRCUIT.

to tlio nnniber of those wlio required tliem, and
that, so long as lie did not take up his abode in
any other part of the parish capriciously, or for
a longer period than was necessary, they had
no just cause of complaint. The inhabitants of
the upper part of the same section, San Veran,
Picrre-Grosse, and Fousillarde, to whom he com-
municated the murmurs of those of Arvieux,
assured him, that they too had great cause to re-
gret the little time that he could devote to them,
but that they were well aware of the extent of his
charge, and of the necessity, which was laid upon
him, of giving all his flock an equal share of his
attention, as far as it was practicable to do so.

But independently of the sense of duty which
led him to shift his residence from one place to
another, there was nothing in Arvieux to tempt
him to prolong his sojournment there. The repose
and enjoyment of domestic life had no attractions
for him, and the natives of Arvieux were, with
few exceptions, so little improved by his instruc-
tions, that he thought his time was better em-
ployed in other places. " More and more," said
he, to an intimate friend, " do I experience the
truth of the declaration, that he who planteth, and
he who watereth is nothing. How often I sigh to
think of these poor Arvieusians ? but it is one of
the severe trials to which a pastor must submit,
to find that he is labouring in vain."

Upon another occasion he wrote thus : "I left

NEFF ON HIS CIRCUIT. '217

this stonj' place for Fressiniere, (Monday, March
28th, 1825,) where the Eternal had prepared more
comfort for me.'' It took hmi three days, on that
occasion, before he could get through the lower
hamlets of the valley, for though it was only
twenty days since he had paid them a previous
visit, yet he was obliged to make many stops on
the route, to receive the demonstrations of aftec-
tion, which they w^ere anxious to offer him. It
was Passion week, an interesting season, when
both the pastor and his flock were preparing
themselves for the observance of the most solemn
festival of the Christian Church, the Easter com-
munion ; and among these simple people, the pre-
paration and the ceremonial itself were conducted
with all the solemnity, with which the primitive
Christians were wont to observe it.

Every person who intended to present himself
at the Lord's table, was expected to give intimation
to the minister, and those young persons who were
to communicate for the first time, were subjected
to a most rigid examination. I liave used tlic
word ceremonial, but it was far from being a mere
outward observance.

As the pastor was slowly wending his way from
Minsas towards the abrupt steep which conducts
to Dormilleuse, and pondering in liis miiid on ilir
spiritual Iiuprovfincnt wliicii he hoped to lin*! in
hi- ( •atccliiimens since iiis last iiistriu-tioiis, In: sud-
denly beheld .'I -iuhl \vlii<-li called all his stron*:-

218 THE WELCOMK.

feelings into action. His return to Dorniilleuse
Avas welcomed, like that of Stouber to the Ban de
la Roche, when all the inhabitants, old and young,
ascended the top of the mountain to watch his ap-
proach. A large company of the villagers did
more than wait NefF's coming, they were descend-
ing the rock to meet him, and to greet his arrival.
In vain he beckoned to them to stop, and not give
themselves the trouble of remounting the whole
of that formidable acclivity. The faithful crea-
tures ventured to disobey their beloved guide this
once, and hurried down the slippery and treache-
rous path, literally to throw themselves into his
arms. When he gently blamed them for putting
themselves to this unnecessary fatigue, one of
them gave utterance to a sentiment to which they
all responded. " It is not often that we have the
enjoyment of walking with you, and we value it
too much to lose it." It was a beautiful oppor-
tunity of obeying the Divine precept, and the
pastor did not lose it. " And those words that I
command thee shall be in thy heart, and thou
shalt talk of them when thou sittest in thine house,
and when thou walkest by the way."

I collect from the tenor of his Journal, that
Neff and those of his young flock who were to
commemorate their Lord's death on the following-
Sunday, (Easter day,) by eating bread and drink-
ing wine, according to Christ's solemn injunction,
in remembrance of him, spent the whole of the

PASSION WEEK. 219

anniversary of " the nigjlit of treason," in exer-
cises of devotion. At midnight they walked out
to take the air, and as they passed a house where
some young women were assembled, they heard
sounds which told them that the inmates were en-
gaged in sacred duties. They heard the voice of
weeping and lamentation, but they were not those
wild and extravagant sounds, which sometimes
proceed from persons who are wrought up to
bursts of passion, which more resemble the exsta-
cies of Bacchantes than the emotions of Christian
penitence. " I listened," said the pastor, " for
a moment to those plaintive expressions, and affect-
ing rythmical apostrophes, which are peculiar to
the patois of this country, and which cannot be
translated into French. The French lano-uaire is
not rich enough to bear the transfusion. I would
not interrupt them, but went by silently, and per-
ceived that the young companions of my walk
were as much affected as I was. So passed this
night, which the Lamb without stain or spot con-
secrated by liis agony and passion I Jf that Holy
One was obliged to taste of the cup of his Fatlier's
wrath, if his soul was exceedingly sorrowful even
unto death, to think of the condemnation under
whicli all the world \:\y, i)ni>t not the rcallv guilt v
tremble when they lliiuk of the wciglit of a tres-
passed covenant?"

At (lay l)r(.'ak, on (Jood Friday, Ncff's unl)rok<'n
j)erseverance urged liim ia descend IVoni Dor-

220 PASSION WEEK.

iiiilleiisc to Minsas, to oxamiuo the intended com-
municants there, and at ten o'clock he performed
public service at tlie new church of Violins. It
was crowded. Every Protestant of the valley
seemed to be present, and the heart of the pastor
must have been deeply moved, to see the seats
opposite to the pulpit occupied by about a hundred
young persons, who were preparing themselves to
appear at the Lord's table on the approaching
solemnity. In fact, of all the youth of the valley
of Fressiniere, who were of the proper age, and
who were able to attend, not one was absent.
Perhaps such a scene was never witnessed in any
Christian community before, and nothing could
attest more forcibly the indefatigable labours of the
spiritual shepherd of the flock, who when " the
sheep wandered through all the mountains, and
upon every high hill, searched for them, and
fed them, and brought them to a good fold."

Upon these solemnities, after the sermon, the
intended communicants are called upon to repeat
their baptismal vows : a custom most worthy of
imitation and of more general practice ; especially
when it is done with the impressive seriousness
which distinguish the service in the Alpine
churches of France and Italy. But upon this
occasion, when the young people should have
made the declaration of their faith and obedience,
not a voice was heard. A few stifled sounds,
and half-smothered sobs were all that struck the

PASSION WEEK. 221

pastor's ear. He was oblioed to recite the words
for them, and to suppose that their awful, mute
assent, was the deliberate renewal of their eno-ao-e-
ments. The formulary used by Neff in his Alpine
churches on this occasion, and on others, when
young- persons were received at the Lord's table
for the first time, resembled that of the Genevan
Church. After the sermon, the pastor address-
ing* the congregation, says, " We shall pre-
sently receive at the Lord's table those young-
persons, whom you now beliold, who have given
sufficient proof, after a solemn examination,
that they have been properly instructed in the
nature of the ordinance. They come to take
upon themselves the most sacred engagements :
to make an open profession of the Gospel, — and
to undertake the discharge of its duties, in order
that they may henceforth enjoy all the privileges
which Christ vouchsafes to those that are his.

" We will ])cgin by reminding these young-
people what they have engaged to do.

" Vou then, who desire to Ije received at the
Lords tal)le, and who have been instructed in
the trutli- of tlie Gf)spel, are you so tlioroiighly
convinced of these truths, that notliiug- could in-
duce you to renounce the Christian religion, and
that you are ready to suffer any thing rather tliau
abandon vour Cliri-tian jirofession ?

" \('^.

" lia\<' yon examined y(tiirsel\ (■>, and aic \<)ii

222 PASSION WEEK.

resolved to renounce sin, and to regulate your
lives according to the commandments of God ?

" Yes.

" As in the sacrament of the Last Supper, we
profess to he all of one body, do you desire to live
in peace and charity, to love your brethren, and
to give them proofs of your love in all things ?

" Yes.

" To confirm your faith and your piety, do
you promise to apply yourselves diligently to
read and meditate upon the word of God — and to
prayer — to frequent the holy assemblies, and to
employ all the means which Providence has im-
parted to you of advancing your salvation ?

" Yes.

" Do you sincerely ratify your baptismal vows,
which oblige you to resist your evil inclinations,
and to consecrate yourselves to God and Jesus
Christ your Saviour, and to live in his communion,
in temperance, righteousness, and piety?

'' Yes."

Then follows a solemn address to them. On the
occasion which I have been describing, when the
service was over, the greater part of the congre-
gation remained for a time upon their knees, so
absorbed were they in the devotional feelings of
the hour.

Some Protestant churches and congregations,
that they may keep at the greatest possible dis-
tance from the Church of Rome, and from the

PASSION WEEK. 223

Church of Englaiul, which lias, in her discretion,
retained all that she judged to be unobjectionable
in the Romish ritual, reject all observance of
Christmas-day, Good Friday, Ascension-day, and
other festivals of the ancient Christians. Not
so the Alpine Churches— those remains of the
primitive Christians ; they observe these days
with marked attention ; and thus we find that
Netf, and his mountain flock of the valley of Fres-
siniere, consecrated the whole of the day of the
crucifixion to acts of devotion. At two o'clock
they re-assembled in the church of Violins. ' ' And
then," Neff observes in his Journal, " I performed
the service according to the form used by the
Moravian brethren, that is to say, by reading a
harmonized narrative of the events of the Passion-
week, compiled from the four Evangelists. This
was interrupted occasionally by the singing of
psalms, selected with a view to their conformity
with the Gospel relation. The impression was
even greater than that which was made in the
morning ; very few of the congregation could
command themselves sufficiently to sing — two of
the IcadinfT singers could not raise a note. Mr.

B said to me when the church was over —

" This is a most simj)l(' and aft'ecting scr\ice.
The finest seniioii could ikjI jji-odncc lli.- same
effect !"

Having spent the TImrsday ol l*a»iiHi-N\ci'k
at Donniileuse, and Ciood-Friday at Minsas and

1

2'2A EIGHT days' labour.

Violins, tlie pastor thought it right to give
Saturday to the inhabitants of Fressini^re and
Palons. On Easter Sunday he again officiated
in the new church at Violins, and administered
the sacrament to an assembly so numerous, that
it was remarked by the oldest people, that they
had never before seen half the same number of
communicants. On Easter Monday the untired
minister performed three public services at Dor-
mill euse, at which the whole of the Protestant
population of the valley, who could climb the
rock, were present.

" So passed this happy week," wrote the pas-
tor, " this holy week, for such it really was in
this valley. The inhabitants spent it in penitence
and prayer, or in pious reading or conversation.
All the young people seemed to be animated by
the same spirit : a flame of holy fire appeared to
spread from one to another, like an electric spark.
During the whole of the eight days, I had not
thirty hours rest. Before and after, and in the
interval of the public services, the young people
might be seen sitting in groups among the huge
blocks of granite, with which the place is covered,
edifying each other by serious reading or conver-
sation. I was absolutely astonished by this sudden
awakening. I could scarcely collect my scattered
thoughts. The rocks, the cascades, even the sur-
rounding ice, seemed to present a new and less
dreary aspect. This savage country became agree-

PASTORAL ATTACHMENT. 225

able and dear to me : it was at once the home of
my brethren ; the beloved Jerusalem of my affec-
tion '. But I must not forget, that there are always
more flowers in spring than fruit in autumn, and
that at the first awakening, many appear to be con-
verted, who are only drawn along by the general
movement. It is like the burning; flint in the
midst of the brazier, which looks like the flaming
charcoal. But, however it may turn out, it is the
work of the Eternal. He only can recognise those
who are his, and knows how to make it manifest
that they are his. To him be the praise and the
glory for ever and ever. Amen.'

' Psalm cxxii.

CHAPTER IX.

Neff's extraordinarif influence over his Flock — Hon obtained —
His improvements introduced into the conditio7i of the Aljuncs
— Their wretched stale previousli/ to his arrival — Projjoses to
himself the example of Oherlin — The Aqueduct — The Christ-
ian Advocate — Nejf a teacher of Agriculture. — Neff at the
Fair of St. Crepin — Observations.

Time and eternity will show, whether the pastor
of the high Alps had such a blessing upon his
labours, as enabled him to produce a lasting im-
pression upon the minds of those simple moun-
taineers, who devoted themselves with such impul-
sive ardour to the cause of the Gospel. His full
usefulness will be known in that glorious day when
the number of God's elect shall be completed. It
is certain, however, that his influence over them
was something quite extraordinary. This influence
would have been less a matter of wonder, had he
resorted to any of those extravagances, which too
often succeed by turning the heads of the ignorant
and fanatical. But it was not so : the whole
course of his ministry was sustained by the same
even and sober piety : his preaching was forcible,
and faithful to the doctrine of redemption through
a crucified Saviour ; but never solicited attention

NEFFS INFLUENCE. 2'27

by stirring' up the wild passions, or vain-glorious
and tbnd conceits of Lis hearers. He made no use
of those arts by which '•' silly women,'' and silly
men are led captive. His Journals make us fully
acquainted with his doctrine, his manner of life, his
purpose, his faith, his long-suffering, his charitv,
and his patience ; and to these virtues, the influence,
which he obtained, must be attributed in a very
great degree.

Neff was not merely the Sabbath day minister
and instructor : nor was he the reliaious jruide
only. He was every thing to his mountaineers :
he interested himself warmly in all their concerns,
and when they saw that his sole object, and un-
wearied endeavour was to make them happier, and
better in all the relations of life, than he found
them, he bowed their hearts, as the heart of one
man, and thev reverenced the Mentor, who was
always busy in adding to their stock of comfort'.

Like the philosopher with the shipwrecked

' " By e\'incing a sincere interest in their concerns, I
would endeavour to gain their confidence, and induce them to
rejrard me as their friend : and then having once obtained this
confidence, and a proportionate degree of inlluence, 1 would
exert it to the utmost of my ability to their advanUige, both in
the instruction of the young, and the conversion of tlie old,
seeking to win their aliections by my earnest desire t(t promote
their spiritual interests. If you adopt this iiictlnxl, my dear
friend, God will take care of the rest." Stoubir's Ads ice to
Oberiin. — Memoirx of Ohcrliii, p. 71.

g2

228 neff's influence.

crew, 111 the uninhabited island, his example, his
contrivances, his persuasions, his suggestions, were
ever leading the way to some new improvement
in their condition. He taught them to improve
their dwelling, to cultivate their lands to greater
advantage, to employ time profitably and agree-
ably that had previously hung heavy upon their
hands, and to find occupation and amusement in
numberless resources, of which they had no con-
ception till his arrival among them. He was
their schoolmaster in short, not only to bring
them unto Christ, but to instruct them in what-
ever was useful and advantageous. They saw
that he had their best interests at heart — and the
current of their affections naturally flowed towards
him, in the full tide of confidence and veneration.
The natives of Val Fressiniere had, perhaps,
greater reason than the rest of his flock, to attach
themselves most affectionately to their pastor, for
finding them in a more forlorn condition than
the others, he did more for them in the way of
general improvement. Their persevering fidelity
to the faith and discipline of their ancestors, when
their nearest neighbours, the inhabitants of Val
Louise had been exterminated, and when the
people of Val Queyras had conformed outwardly
to the religion of Rome, had cut them off so effec-
tually from all human society ', during a long

' I transcribe the following edict of Louis XII. in proof of

EFFECTS OF OPPRESSION. 229

period of time, and from all the conveniences of
civilized life, that on Neft"s arrival at Dorniil-
leuse, he found them the same half-barbarous
tribe, which De Thou represented them to be 250
years before. One proof of their utter wretched-
ness affected him sensibly. Long habits of suspi-
cion, and the dread of ill-treatment, had become
so natural to them, that at the sight of a stranger,
they ran into their huts, particularly the young-
people, like marmots into their holes. Their
houses, clothes, food, and method of cultivation,,
were four or five centuries behind the rest of
France, and to this hour, after all his exertions
to ameliorate their state, if a stranger could be
carried asleep to their village, on waking he never

the unmerited sufferings of the Protestants of this region, when
the iron hand of their oppressors lay most heavy upon them.

" Lewis, by the grace of God, king of France.

" Forasmuch as it is come to our knowledge that the inha-
bitants of Fressiniere have endured great troubles, vexations,
and punishments, we, desirujg to relieve them, and to cause
their property to be restored to them, do, by these presents,
command all those that retain such property, to restore it without
delay. And in case of refusal or delay, we, having regard td
their poverty and misery, and inability to obtain justice, will
take cognizance thereof in our own person, warning all those
who shall continue to do them wrong, to aj)pear before us. (iiveii
at Lyon, the r2th of October ITjOI."

This wa.s after the celebrated papal l)ull of 1 IM7, wlitii the
Protestanta of Val Fressiniere were pursued like wild l)ea8ts,
and had their property confiscuted.

230 AMELIORATIONS.

would believe that he was in the land of civilized
Frenclunen. The pastor had to begin with first
principles, and in this his scientific knowledge,
and the systematic rules of command and obe-
dience, in whicli he had himself been so well
schooled in the garrison at Geneva, came season-
ably to his hel}). He knew how to set about
arrang-ino; and o'ivino' directions.

His first attempt was to impart an idea of do-
mestic convenience. Chimneys and windows to
their hovels were luxuries to which few of them
had aspired, till he showed them how easy it was
to make a passage for the smoke, and admittance
for the light and air. He next convinced them
that warmth might be obtained more healthily,
than by pigging together for six or seven months
in stables, from which the muck of the cattle was
removed but once during the year. For their
coarse and unwholesome food, he had, indeed, no
substitute ; because the sterility of the soil would
produce no other ; but he pointed out a mode of
tillage, by which they increased the quantity ;
and in cases of illness, where they had no concep-
tion of applying the simplest remedies, he pointed
out the comfort which a sick person may derive
from light and warm soups and ptisans, and other
soothing assistance. So ignorant were they of
what was hurtful or beneficial in acute disorders,
that wine and brandy w^ere no unusual prescrip-
tions in the height of a raging fever.

NEFF AND OBERLIN. '23\

Strange enouoli, and still more characteristic
of savage life, the women, till Neff taught the
men better manners, were treated with so much
disregard, that they never sat at table with their
husbands or brothers, but stood behind them, and
received morsels from their hands with obeisance
and profound reverence.

'' But with all this, they participated in the
general corruption of human nature, as far as
their poverty would let them. Gaming, dancing,
swearing, and quarrelling, were not uncommon,
though the Papists, who occupied the lower part
of the valley, were certainly much more corrupt.
Nevertheless, the wretchedness of this people
commends them to our compassion, and ought to
excite the deepest interest, when we consider,
that it is the result of their ancestors' fidelity to
our cause. Persecution has penned them up,
like frightened and helpless sheep, in a narrow
gorge, where there is scarcely an habitation
which is not exposed to avalanches of snow, or
falling rocks. From the first moment of my
arrival, I took them as it were to my heart, and I
ardently desired to be unto them, even as another
Oberiui. Unfortunately I could not then give
them more than a week in each montli, whereas,
such is the length of the valley, and tlic uiiinbcr
of the handets, that I oiiglit to be constantly there.
But the Almighty lias been pleased to bless tin;
little can* that 1 could lte>to\v upon tliem. and Jo

232 NEFF AND OBERLIN.

permit a change to be produced in more respects
than one."

So affectionately, so apologetically, when he was
constrained by the force of truth to touch on tlieir
failings, and so modestly, when he was recording
his own exertions, did this excellent man write
down his thoughts, when the Val Fressiniere was
the subject of his Journal.

The character of Oberlin was Neff's delight

o

and his model, and if it did not first awaken his
desire to become eminent in the same way, it
confirmed his good resolutions. The good which
is done by the recital of labours like those of
Oberlin, and by giving circulation to the memoir
of such a life, was singularly illustrated in the
case now before us. The pastor of the Alps had
by some means become acquainted ' with the
history of the pastor of the Vosges, and of his im-
provements in the Ban de la Roche ; several pub-
lications had noticed Oberlin 's beneficial labours
in his mountain parish, and Neff's bosom glowed
with a noble emulation to imitate his doings.
Therefore, without derogating in the least degree
from Neffs merits, it may be said, that much of

^ Probably by reading the letter printed in a German maga-
zine in 1793, and some accounts of him in the Bible Society's
Reports, or " Promenades Alsaciennes," par M. Merlin, and
" Rapport fait a la Societe Royale d'Agriculture, par M. Le
Comte de Neuf-Chateau, sur I'Agriculture et la Civilization
du Ban de la Roche."

NEFF AND OBERLIN. 233

his usefulness may be attributed to the practical
lesson, which Oberlin had previously taught. It
is for this reason, that few greater boons can be
conferred on society, than by giving all possible
notoriety to the labours of such benefactors of
mankind, as our own Bernard Gilpin, and George
Herbert, or Frederick Oberlin, who in their hum-
ble stations of parish priests, promoted the tem-
poral and spiritual good of their people at the same
time. Many a young clergyman has received the
same impression as Neff, from reading such bio-
graphy, and has lighted his candle at such glorious
lamps, and has been inspired with the noblest of
all ambition, that of distributing happiness and
comfort within the immediate circle of his duties.

The amiable biographer, who collected the
memorials of Oberlin, may enjoy the exquisite
satisfaction of believing, that her record of his
blameless life, and indefatigable labours, will be
like a voice exclaiming in the ears of many, who
begin to feel the pleasure of being useful, " Go
and do thou likewise," and will thus be the
means of j)crpetuating to future generations, the
influence of Oberlius beneficent exertions, more
effectually than any monument to his memory.

ill Ills pri\at(.' nienior;iii(la, Nefi" tVe(|iir!iilv
iiiiuhi alUisioM to the same fact, llial iii reniofe,
and particularly in y\lj)iiie villages, th(^ lile of
a minister ol the (iospel resembles tiiat of a mis-
sionary in uncivili/ed (tonntries, and, lo u<e iijs

234 SCHEMES of improvement.

own expression, " It is necessary to be a Frederick
Oberlin, to do all that is required of him." From
the first, therefore, he made it his study to con-
ciliate the affections and confidence of the peasants,
by employing all his attainments for their im-
provement, and by showing them that there were
many things, in which his general knowledge
mio-ht be rendered serviceable to them. He not
only did not hesitate, but he sought occasions, to
put his hand to the tool of the mechanic and arti-
san, and to the husbandman's implement, and
thus to drill the peasantry into better manage-
ment, and to instruct them in the best mode of
adding to their stock of conveniences and comfort.
We have already seen him working with the
masons and carpenters, to give the last air of
architectural beauty to the new church of Violins,
and now I will exhibit him in the character of an
agriculturist, introducmg. an improved method of
irrigation, and a system of sowing and planting,
which doubled the quantity of production.

One of the principal resources of the valley of
Fressiniere, is the breeding and pasturage of
cattle. But the winter is so long, and the tracts
of land capable of producing fodder are so scanty,
that every blade of grass that can be raised, and
made into hay, is a very treasure. A dry summer
often left them unprovided with hay, and com-
pelled the poor creatures to part with their stock
at an inadequate price. Netf's eye perceived

THE AQUEDUCT. 235

that a direction might be given to tlie streams in
one part, which woukl improve the ground in
another, and furnish the proprietors with constant
means of keeping the grass fresh and moist. But
he found the utmost difficulty in explaining the
simplest principles of hydraulics, and in per-
suading his ignorant listeners that the water
might be made to rise and fall, and might be
dammed up and distributed, accordingly as it
might be required for use. The imaginary ex-
pense stared them in the face like certain ruin ;
and the labour appalled them, as being perfectly
insuperable. ^^ hen their pastor first advised them
to construct the canals necessary for the purpose,
they absolutely refused to attempt it, and he was
obliged to tell them, that they were equally deaf
to temporal and spiritual counsel. Pointing to
the rushing waters, which were capable of being
diverted from their course to the parched and ste-
rile soil, which he wished to see improved, he ex-
claimed, " You make as little use of those ample
streams, as you do of the water of life. God lias
vouchsafed to offer you both in abundance, but
your pastures, like your hearts, are languisliing
with drought !"

In the spring of 1825, there had been so little
snow, tliat there was every aj)pearance of ilic
soil yielding even less than its usual scanty
increase : its wonted supply of nioisturc had
lailed. Xrtt' took advautagr ol the >fatr ol" llic
sea.sou, and once more; pressed tlicni lo adoj)t

236 THE AQUEDUCT.

his mode of irrigation. But still the reluctance
and the excuses were the same. If the canals
and aqueducts were made, they would soon get
out of order : if one proprietor adopted them, ano-
ther would not : the next neighbour would not
permit them to cross his land, and one opponent
of the measure might stop the whole proceeding :
but if all should agree, and the work were to be
brought to a happy conclusion, an avalanche, or
a crumbling mass of granite would soon crush or
interrupt the constructions, and reduce them to
their old condition. In vain did the pastor en-
deavour to convince them of the weakness of these
arguments, particularly of the last : they might
as well refuse to plant and sow, or to build houses,
for nothing was safe from avalanches. Finding
that he could not prevail, when he addressed them
in a body, he took them separately, and asked,
" Will you consent if your neighbour will ? Will
you put your shoulder to the work, if the occupiers
of the next property will join you?" They were
ashamed to refuse, when they were thus personally
appealed to, and an unwilling acquiescence was
thus gradually obtained. But then arose another
and more formidable objection. " Suppose the
aqueducts are completed, and the water flows,
will the distribution be equal ? Will not my
neighbour get more of the water than I shall ?
How do I know that he will not exhaust the
supply, before my land has had a drop."' NefF
was too ready at expedients to be easily foiled.

THE AQUEDUCT. 237

He proposed tliat there should be a committee,
and an arbiter, to determine what share of the
public benefit each occupier should enjoy, and how
long, and on what days, and at what liours, the
stream should be permitted to pour its waters into
the different sections and branches of its courses.

At length all preliminaries were settled, and
the work was to be done. The line was marked
out, and the proprietors consented that the main
channel should cross and recross their lands ac-
cordingly as it should be required. But again
there was some demur. The people would only
labour at that part of the construction which
was to irrigate their own ground. "Be it so,''
said Neff, " only let us make a beginning " He
saw that he could easily bring them to good hu-
mour and compliance, if he could only once set
them on. Every thing having been arranged,
the working party, consisting of fortj"^, met at day-
break, and with the pastor at their head ', pro-
ceeded to examine the remains of an ancient
aqueduct, which it was tliought might Ijc ren-

' How Oberlin lived again in this incident ! " Oberlin had
already traced the plan, (of the bridge across the Bouche ) and
no sooner had he pronounced the words, ' Let all who feel the
importance of my proposition come and work with me,' than
with a pickaxe on his shoulder, he proceeded to the spot, while
the astonished peasants, animated by his example, forgot their
excuses, and hastened with uiianiiiious consent to fetch tlicir
toolH and follow him." — Afiumi, ■> i>f Ci/n rlin, p. (J.'i.

238 THE AQUEDUCT.

dered in some degree availuble to their purpose,
if they could so far make out its line as to follow
its direction. Some few traces were discernible,
but the sight of them seemed to dishearten rather
than encourage the conscripts.

" We shall be three days," said one, " before
we can complete this part of our work !"

" It will take us not less than six," said another,
" ten" said a third.

" Not quite so many," said the pastor, mildly,
and with his benevolent smile.

Neft' divided his troop into little detachments,
of five or six, with a commander at the head of
each, and, taking upon himself the direction in
chief, he allotted a distinct proportion of tlie work
to each. Presently all were busy, some digging
and excavating, others clearing away ; the pastor
himself was at one time plying his pickaxe, and
another time moving from place to place, and su-
perintending the progress of others. At ten
o'clock the party expressed a desire to discon-
tinue their labour and go home to their breakfast.
But this would not do for their chief. He fore-
saw that there would be stragglers, and perhaps
deserters, if they should once lose sight of each
other : therefore, still setting them the example,
he sent for liis own breakfast, continued at his
w^ork, and persuaded the rest to do the same.

It was a toilsome undertaking. In some places
they had to elevate the floor of the main channel

THE AQlKDrCT. '239

to the height ot" eight feet, and in others to loMer
it as much. In the course of the first day's
labour, it was necessary to carry the construction
across the rocky beds of three or four torrents,
and often wlien the work appeared to be effectually
done, Neff detected a default in the level, or in
the inclination of the water course, which obliged
him to insist upon their going over it again.
At four o'clock the volunteers were rewarded by
seeing the first fruits of their labours : one line of
aqueduct was completed ; the dam was raised,
and the water rushed into the nearest meadow
amidst the joyful shouts of workmen and specta-
tors. The next day some cross cuts were made,
and proprietors, who were supposed to be secretly
hostile and incredulous, saw the works carried
over their ground without offering any opposition
to the measure, for who could indulge his obsti-
nate or dogged humour, when the benevolent
stranger, the warm hearted minister, was toiling
in the sweat of his brow to achieve a public good,
which never could be of the least advantage to
himself? It was the good shepherd, not taking
the Heece, but exhausting his own strength, and
wearing himself out lor the sheep. ()ii the third,
and on tlie following days, small li-ausxcrsc lines
were formed, and a long channel was made acro.S9
the face of the in<»iint;iin, to snj)plv three \illage
roinitaiiis with water. This hisf \\;i> a \ri-\ for-

240 THE CHRISTIAN ADVOCATE.

midable enterprize. It was necessary to under-
mine the rock, to blast it, and to construct a pas-
sage for the stream in granite of the very hardest
kind. " I had never done any thing like it be-
fore," is the pastor's note upon this achievement,
*' but it was necessary to assume an air of scien-
tific confidence, and to give my orders like an
experienced engineer."

The work was brought to a most prosperous
issue, and the pastor was thenceforward a sove-
reign, who reigned so triumphantly and absolutely,
that his word was law. This power was exercised
in a manner worthy of a Christian guide, and
particularly in one instance. The Roman Catholic
bishop of Embrun had some territorial rights in the
valley of Fressiniere ; but such was the general un-
willingness to permit any of his agents to exercise
them, and to collect the dues, that his property
in Dormilleuse and its contiguous villages added
little or nothing to his revenues. What could the
churchman do in a region, where the persecutors
of centuries had found a rampart thro\\Ti up against
their oppression : where the blood -hounds of
Louis the Fourteenth could pursue their chase no
further : and where Napoleon himself was baffled,
when he attempted to fill up his conscription list
with the youth of these mountains ? But what
neither force nor stratagem could effect, persuasion
accomplished, and at Nefi""s request, the agents

XEFF 1\ AGRICl'LTLRE. 241

from Eiiibruii made a return to the arcliiepiscopal
treasury to which it was totally unaccustomed '.

The valley of Fressiniere, like the Ban de la
Roche, had need of the potatoe, to supply tlie
deficiencies of its native productions, and in ex-
tension of the resemblance, it was cultivated so
wretchedly, that both the cjuantity and quality
were lamentably bad. The pastor would fain
have put the people in the way of obtaining- a bet-
ter root, and more of it. But his proposed means
were so foolish, according to their notions of hus-
bandry, that before the aqueduct lesson, they
thought they might just as well let their ground
lie fallow, as throw it away upon his system.
Their own mode was to set their plants so close
to each other, that there was no room for growth
or expansion, and not the slightest chance of being
able to weed the land, or to keep it clean with the
crop upon it. In vain therefore were they recom-
mended to set the plants at a proper distance :
they could not believe tliat tlicy should get as
much as their seed back again. Neff's expedient
to teach them wisdom partook of his usual decision.
He devoted several days to traversing tlu' valley
in the j)lanting season, and went into ganhMis and
fields where thev were setting potatoes, and taking

' A similar anccdota^K told of Ohcrlin (sci' Mciiii)irs, j). !;>.'».).
How unlike tlit- proceedings in Ireland, where a popish bishop
is encouraging^ the Roman C'afholirs to withhold their rights iVonj
Profrntant claimants.

R

242 NEFF IN AGUK ULTrUE.

the hoe, or the spade out of the labourers hands,
he planted two or three rows hhiiself. This was
permitted with o-reat reluctance : a few let them
remain as he left them, others took them up, and
set them again after their own fashion, as soon as
his back was turned. But the next year the
malcontents were too happy to learn their pastor's
method ; they saw the astonishing increase which
his rows yielded, and the potatoe is now one of
the most valuable productions of a soil, which
gives but a scanty return at the most. In Val
Queyras, where the pastor had a garden of his
own, his system was adopted earlier, for when his
neighbours saw him take up nine or ten tuber-
cles from one plant, they were not easy until they
had tried the same art of obtaining the same in-
crease.

We have seen upon more occasions than one,
that our unwearied pastor was in the habit of going-
out of his way to be useful. He was not satisfied
with doing good as opportunities might arise ;
but he sought and even made those opportunities.
Thus, in the case just related, he went through
his hamlets, and searched through field after
field, that he might put the ignorant and obstinate
peasants in the way of improving their mode of
cultivation. He promoted their spiritual good by
similar means. " Seeing the distressed state of
so many poor souls," said he in one of his letters,
" I sent for a hundred copies of the tract, ' Honey

THE FAIR OF ST. CREIMX. 243

jiowhig from the Rock. ^ On tlie :23d tliev arrived,
and on the 'iotli I repaired to St. Crepin, on the
Durance, where they were then holding- a fair,
which brings together a great number of the in-
habitants of the province. I carried my packet to
the inn, where I could obtain a room for half an
hour only. This time, however, was sufficient
for me to distribute my tracts, which were carried
oflP in a few minutes. This book, small as it is,
contains some excellent thinos for soids thirstin"-
for eternal life ; and as I have always distributed
them prudently, they have seldom failed to pro-
duce good effects. All our friends of the high
Alps carry it about with them, and we often see
them in groups reading and commenting on it, in
the midst of the fields, or in the cross-ways of the
villages. Several of them know it by heart, and
quote from it entire passages very aj)pi'oj)riately.
I think I ought, on this occasion, to mention what
I hav(! long observed, that a preacher of the Gos-
pel would do well often to frequent fairs and great
markets, where persons assemble from diUcrent
parts. I there distribute many books anil reli-
gious tracts. Mild I liave opportunities of commu-
nicating witli llic l»iethren of the different vaHoys,
who are delighted with Ijceoniing ;ic(|iiaiiit((l willi
each otlier."

It was thus, in his manifoM scliemes of useful-
ness, that Neffresi inbh'd tlie amiable and admir-
able pastor rtf the U;im de hi Koehe, wliose character

u 2

244 A PORTRAIT.

he took such pleasure in contemplating ; and had
not the scene of his lahours heen so remote, and in-
accessible, we might have had many such interest-
ins: anecdotes to communicate, as those which
grace the memoirs of Oberlin. But in his widely
extended parish, and in his homeless mode of life,
there was no one centre of attraction, like tlie
parsonage of Waldbach, to draw admiring stran-
gers, whose letters or journals might have re-
corded many an incident, honourable both to the
pastor and his flock, and might sooner have
drawn the character of the self-denying and ever
working minister out of its obscurity into beauti-
ful relief. He was removed from life almost before
he was appreciated ; and assuredly there are many
more such, even at this moment, and in our own
country, who are pursuing their noiseless course,
as humble and indefatigable country clergymen,
and who are living for others, while their sole
motives are the sense of responsibility attached to
their stations and means of usefulness, and the
love of God, working in them the purest love of
their fellow creatures. Many such as these, are
acting their parts nobly, and are upholding the
credit of their church, and are, in fact, the la-
bourers in the vineyard, to whom thanks are due
for the ingathering of the harvest, while the lite-
rary champions of the same church are running
away with all the honour of being its supporters.
At the moment I am writing this, my mind is

A POKTKAIT. 245

full of the meritorious and self-denying services
which a vouno- clero;vman, who took the hio'hest
honours at Caml)rid2:e, is now renderino* to the
cause of religion, as a village curate in the west of
England. If " Oxford" had not been the title of
one of R. Montgomery's beautiful poems, in which
the subject is introduced with all the force of poetry
and truth, I should have thou2:ht that Mr. M. had
been in his eye, when he composed the subjoined
lines : —

" Ah little know they, when the harsh declaim,
Or folly leads to sconi a curate's name,
In hamlets lone what lofty minds abound,
To spread the smiles of charity around !
It was not that a frowning chance denied
An early wreath of honourable pride :
In college rolls triumphantly they shine,
And proudly Alma Mater calls them, mine !
But heav'nlier dreams than ever fame inspired
Their spirits haunted, as the world retired :
The fameless quiet of parochial care
And sylvan home, their fancy stooped to share :
And when arrived, no deeper bliss they sought
Than that which undenying heaven had brought.
On such, perchance, renown may never beam,
Though oft it glittered in some college dream :
But theirs the fame no worldly scenes supply,
\Vho teach us how to live and how to die."

p. GO.

CHAPTER X.

Neff's caiilioii hi l/ic choice of his catechists. — Neff in his schools.
— IVorkx at the building of a school-room in Dormilleuse —
Establishes and conducts a Normal scJtool for the training of
catechists and schoolmasters — The difficulties of this under-
taking— The farewell rej^ast — Neff's remarks on the charac-
ters of the young men of his adult school, and on the effects
produced by it — Observations on the state of public instruc-
tion in France.

Very few men of Neff's vehement and sanguine
temperament have displayed a happier miionof zeal
and discretion. He seldom permitted his enthu-
siasm to get the better of his j udgment. When his
influence was at its zenith, and the extraordinary
improvement in the protestant population of Val
Fressiniere would have led most persons to exult in
their success, and to flatter themselves that such
striking eflects produced by their ministry must be
permanent, he distrusted appearances, and anxi-
ously revolved in liis own mind the best means, of
bringing his neophytes to ripeness and perfectness
in Christ. Instead of urging on such as desired to
become his fellow-helpers and catechists, and ac-
celerating their pace, he kept them in check, and
endeavoured to convince them, that it was still a
day of small things with them, and that they
must undergo much preparation, before they could

ZEAL AM) DISCRETION. 447

take upon themselves to guide others. Several
young- persons expressed an ardent Avish to com-
municate the impressions which they themselves
had received, and to hold little social meetings for
that purpose. The pastor's decided opinion of the
value of such meetings has already been noticed ;
I shall now show that he tried to keep them under
proper controul and superintendence, and that he
did not give encouragement to the eftiisions of zeal
without knowledge. One of his Journals contains
the following observations upon this subject.

" Those wOio are dazzled by the first l)laze of
a new religious light, and who, imagining that
zeal, however fervent, can supply the want of
study and information, confide the most difficult
part of Gods work to persons, who have nothing
but their faith and spiritual experience to guide
them, will not be long before they discover their
mistake. Nothing can be more erroneous. For
my own part, 1 think the ])rinciple must be gene-
rally admitted, that knowledge and prejiaration
are indispensably requisite for a lal)ourer in tlic
Lord's vineyard, that he may piirsiic his work
efficaciously. He must combine sound discretion
with fervent (Christian piety. The truth of this
has long been felt by me. but especially since my
abode among these seclndcd people. Their pro-
fonnd i^iioi-;inc(' is, at |)rt'scnl, an in-u|irraM('
obstacle to tlic nM-Jiilnr-- (»t' tlin-.<' wlio arc most
zealous, and \vli<> lia\i' iln- Kf-t inclinations.

248 ZEAL AND DISCIIETION,

Neft'lias here said enough to confirm an opinion
which I expressed in a former chapter', as to the
risk of encouragiiio- prayer meetings, and similar
associations, composed of promiscuous persons,
under no influential guidance ; where all may
speak, " those that are unlearned, or are unbe-
lievers, and where every one hath a psalm, liatli
a doctrine, hath a tongue, hath a revelation, hath
an interpretation-," and where there is no check
upon those who are inclined to take a lead, whe-
ther qualified by character and attainments or not'.
On the other hand nothing can be more conducive
to piety and religious improvement, than well
ordered, and well selected meetings of Christian
friends, who devote certain portions of time to
mutual conference and scriptural exposition, with
prayer. These are strong links of union and fel-
lowship, and powerful helps and encouragements,
which animate the individuals who form them,
and carry them forward in their Christian pro-
gress.

In another place Nefi" complained that there
was scarcely one in the whole valley who could
read the pure French language with any tolerable
degree of fluency, much less speak it. " They
learn to read, and they profess to read, but they
have very few books ; and it is the most disagree-

' See Chapter V. ' 1 Cor. xiv. 23. 26.

^ Baxter called it " a sinful Inunouring of rash professors."

NEFF IN HIS SCHOOLS. 249

able thing in the •world to hear them attempt to
recite a passage in Scripture, with their discordant
tones, and vile pronunciation. They pitch their
voices so high, and their articulation, from bad
habit, is so imperfect, that it is scarcely possible
to understand them, when they utter any thing
but their own patois. Even the schoolmasters,
whom I have found in the mountain villages,
would not be thought worthy of being classed
above learners of rudiments in any other place."

But what could be expected of functionaries,
whose stipend was only twenty-four francs, or less
than twentv shillings for the year : and of scholars,
whose studies were always interrupted at the re-
turn of the open weather, and who were sent
from their books to the flocks and herds, as soon
as the snow was oft' the ground 1 The pastor saw
that every thing must be done by himself: that
he must give lessons, not only in tlie first princi-
ples of religion, but in the elements of ordinary
scholarship, and that he must condescend to be-
come an Abecedarian, before he could lay a good
foundation of sound religious learniiiLi. Willi his
usual unbroken perseverance lie went to work,
determined to give j)rimary instruction to all, to
old as well as young ; to as many as were willing
to be taught to read. Hut it w;is lir-^t necessary
that he should niak<' liini-rit thomu'jh master <»!
tile |)i-o\ iiirial (li;ilcct of the eouuliA. aud iu this
he siu'ceeded.

250 NEFF IN Ills SCHOOLS.

The unwearied diligence with which NefF de-
voted himself to tlie acquirement of the patois
of Dauphine, is one of the eftorts most creditable
both to his judgment and his powders of applica-
tion. It is recorded of Ireneeus, the first Protestant
bishop, (as that prelate may fairly be called, who
first rebuked the bishop of Rome for his uncatho-
lic spirit, in attempting to lord it over Gods
heritage,) that he learned the language of the
province, before he preached Christ in these Alpine
regions. Every body feels his reverence for the
apostolical Heber increased upon reading Kohl-
hoff's account of his confirmino' the Tamul con-
gregation in their own language. " After the
conclusion of the sermon, he pronounced the
blessing in Tamul, from the altar, correctly and
distinctly, to the great surprise and joy of the
whole native congregation. Fifty of the native
congregation were confirmed by him in the Tamul
language. The correctness with which he pro-
nounced every word in Tamul, was not only strik-
ing, but will be always remembered by our native
Christians, as a proof of the apostolic spirit which
was in him, a proof of his fervent zeal and bene-
volent disposition to promote the eternal welfare,
not only of the Europeans, but also of the poor
natives." The humble pastor of the Alps is
entitled to the same praise in all the churches.

Behold the preacher surrounded by his classes
ill a miserable stable, correcting the tone of one.

NEFF IN 11 FS SCHOOLS. 251

the pronunciation of another, and the articulation
of a tliird ; patiently dinning- sounds and sense
into their ears, and making- them spell the words,
and divide by syllables, and repeat sentences
again and again, until he had put them into
something like a fair training. Behold him also,
to keep his pupils in good humour, and to mingle
something pleasing with the dull routine of read-
ing and spelling, putting aside his books, and
oivino; lessons in music. This was a most sue-
cessful as well as agreeable expedient ; it was
soon found that the best singers were also the
best readers, and application to the more attrac-
tive lesson was usually accompanied by ])rofi-
ciencv in the duller acquirement.

There was another scheme of the pastor which
answered admirably well, and displayed the re-
sources of his active mind. The inhabitants of
Val Queyras were the best instructed, and tin-
most ready scholars : those of A'al Fressiuit-re
were the most devout Christians ; he thercfon"
judged that it would tend to their niiituitl improve-
ment, it" lie could tr;msj)l;int :i lev. oi" the well
informed of tlie foi-mer into tlie villages of the
latter, and eniplo\' their ser\i('es as his assistants
in the schools. *' I li(»jie(l,"" said he. " that in
exchange ior theii* human learniM<^-, ihe\ wcuihi
bring l)aek iVom the \alle\ oi" I'ressinierc -ome of
till' more j»reeioii> kliowhd'je which make- (Uie
wise unto -ahation. lie w a- not (|ecei\e(l;

2,y2 in:i.uiiois imimiessions.

And row Vasserati of Molines, and Stephen Mat-
tliow of San Veran, and others who went to Dor-
niilleuse and Minsas, were so pricked to the heart
by tlie simple and fervent piety of the young-
people, whom they were employed to instruct,
that they returned to their homes exactly in that
frame of mind which Neff anticipated, and they
endeavoured to inspire in others the feelings which
they themselves had acquired.

It was thus among the grandest and sternest
features of mountain scenery, that Neff not only
found food for his own religious contemplations,
and felt that his whole soul was filled with the
majesty of the ever present God, but here also he
discovered, that religious impressions were more
readily received, and retained more deeply than
elsewhere by others. In this rugged field of rock
and ice, the Alpine summit, and its glittering
pinnacles, the eternal snows and glaciers, the
appalling clefts and abysses, the mighty cataract,
the rushing waters, the frequent perils of ava-
lanches and of tumbling rocks, the total absence
of every soft feature of nature, were always
reading an impressive lesson, and illustrating
the littleness of man, and the greatness of the
Almighty.

The happy result of his experiments, made the
pastor feel anxious to have a more convenient
place for his scholastic exertions than a dark and
dirty stable ; and here again tlie characteristic

THE SCHOOL-ROOM. 253

and never-failing energies of his mind were fully
displayed. The same hand M'hich had been em-
ployed in regulating the interior arrangements of
a church, in constructing aqueducts and canals of
irrioation, and in the husbandman's work of sow-
ing and planting, was now turned to the labour
of building a school-room. He persuaded each
family in Dormilleuse to furnish a man, who
should consent to work under his directions, and
having first marked out the spot with line and
plummet, and levelled the ground, he marched
at the head of his company to the torrent, and
selected stones fit for the building. The pastor
placed one of the heaviest upon his own shoulders
— the others did the same, and away they went
with their burthens, toiling up the steep acclivity,
till they reached the site of the proposed building.
This labour was continued until the materials
were all ready at hand ; the walls then began to
rise, and in one week from the first commence-
ment, the exterior masonry work was completed,
aud tli(.' root" was put u]m>u the room. The
windows, chinmey, door, tables, and seats, were
not long before they also were finislied. A con-
venient stove added its accommodatiou to tlie
apartment, and Dormilleuse, for tlic iiist time
probiiblv in its history, saw a j)ul»lic scliool-ioom
erected, and tlif process of iu.-frucliou coiKlncted
with ;ill possible regularity and coiiilnrt.

I li;i(l the saf isl'iidion ol \i->ilm<^- :mi(I iuspi^cting

254 THE NORMAL SCHOOL.

this moiminent of NefF's judicious exertions for
liis dear Dorniillcusians — but it was a melaucholy
pleasure. The shape, the dimensions, the mate-
rials of the room, tlie chair on which he sat, the
floor which had been laid in part by his own
hands, the window-frame and desks, at which he
had worked with cheerful alacrity, were all objects
of intense interest, and I gazed on these relics of
*' the Apostle of the Alps," with feelings little
short of veneration. It was here that he sacri-
ficed his life. The severe winters of 1826-7, and
the unremitted attention which he paid to his
duties, more especially to those of his school-
room, were his death-blow.

The course of the narrative, which I proposed
to myself as being best calculated to illustrate
Neff's singular character, and the very important
nature of his labours, now brings me to what may
be considered his crowning work, — the system
by which he trained adults, and taught them how
to teach. It was so in every sense of the word ;
it was his most difficult, and his most unpleasant,
but at the same time his most necessary work,
anxious as he was to leave permanent effects of
his ministry behind him, when he should be re-
moved from that scene of action ; and it was his
last, for it broke up his shattered constitution, and
hastened his death. But before I permit myself
to dwell with delighted admiration on the wisdom
of this complement of his pastoral career, I must

1

THE NORMAL SCHOOL. 255

let him o-ive his o\vn account of the motives which
induced him to undertake the severest of all
drudgery.

" I foresaw with sorrow," said he, " that the
Gospel, which I had been permitted to preach In
these mountains, would not only not spread, but
mioht even be lost, unless somethino* should be
done to promote its continuance. I bethought
me how it might be preserved in some degree ;
and after mature deliberation I determined to
become a training master, and to form a winter
school, composed of the most intelligent and well
disposed young men of the different villages of my
parish, more particularly of those, who, notwith-
standing their lamentable ignorance, had already
determined to become teachers. Many of these
aspirants to the scholastic office were in the habit
of leavins: their mountain homes in the winter, to
open schools in the warmer and more sheltered
hamlets, and of returning in the spring to culti-
vate their own little heritages. I communicated
mv design to the most sanguine of these, and they
entered into the spirit of it most joyfully, l^ut I
foresaw that the execution of the ])lan would en-
tail cxpences such as my jjoor moiiiilaiiicers,
wlio expatriate themselves during tlic wiiifci-
season to obtain a ])recarious subsistence, could
bv no means incur. I tlierefore wrote to some
friends at Cjencva, wlio generously |)romis('d to
promote my views, and lo send some remittances

256 THE NORMAL SCHOOL.

in aid of llicni '. Doriuilleusc was the spot which
1 chose for my scene of action, on account of its
sechision, and because its whole population is
Protestant, and a local habitation was already
provided here for the purpose. I reckoned at first
that I should have about a dozen eleves ; but find-
ing that they were rapidly offerino- themselves,
and would probably amount to double tliat num-
ber, at the least, I thought it right to engage an
assistant, not only that I might be at liberty to
go and look after my other churches and villages,
but that I might not be exposed to any molesta-
tion, for in France nobody can lawfully exercise
the office of a schoolmaster w^ithout a license, and
this cannot be granted either to a foreigner or a
pastor. For these reasons I applied to Ferdinand
Martin, who was then pursuing his studies at
Mens, to qualify himself for the institution of M.
Olivier, in Paris. It was a great sacrifice on his
part to interrupt his studies, and to lose the op-
portunity of an early admission to the institution ;
nor w^as it a small matter to ask him to come and
take up his residence at the worst season of the
year, in the midst of the ice and frightful rocks of

' I believe Mr. Gaussen, "who is now so actively promoting
the new academical institution at Geneva, was one of these
friends ; and that the lady who has assisted me in the compila-
tion of tliis memoir, by lending me Neffs Journals, was greatly
instrumental in raising funds in England in aid of our pastor's
plans.

THE NORMAL SCHOOL. 257

Dormilleuse. But he was sensible of the import-
ance of the work, and, without any hesitation, he
joined our party at the beginning of November.
The short space of time which we had before us,
rendered every moment precious. We divided
the day into three parts. The first was from sun-
rise to eleven o'clock, when we breakfasted. The
second from noon to sunset, when we supped.
The third from supper till ten or eleven o'clock at
night, making in all fourteen or fifteen hours of
study in the twenty-four. We devoted much of
this time to lessons in reading, which the wretched
manner in which they had been taught, their de-
testable accent, and strange tone of voice, rendered
a most necessary, but tiresome duty. The gram-
mar, too, of which not one of them had the least
idea, occupied much of our time. People who
have been brought up in towns, can have no con-
ception of the difficulty which mountaineers and
rustics, whose ideas are confined to those objects
only to which they have been familiarized, find in
learning this branch of science. There is scarcely
any way of conveying the meaning of it to them.
All the usual terms and definitions, and the means
which are connnonly cniploved in schools, are
utterlv uiiiiit(;lligihhi here. Hiif llic curious and
novel devices which must be employed, have
this advanta<:;(', — that th(!v exercise! llieir under-
standing, and liel|) to form their jndnineiit. Die,
tation was one r>f tin; methods to which I had re-

S

258 neff's method of teaching.

course : without it they would have made no
progress in grammar and orthography ; but they
wrote so miserably, and slowly, that this con-
sumed a great portion of valuable time. Ob-
serving that they were ignorant of the signification
of a great number of French words, of constant
use and recurrence, I made a selection from the
vocabulary, and I set them to write down in little
copv-books ', words which were in most frequent
use ; i)ut the explanations contained in the dic-
tionary were not enough, and I was obliged to
rack mv brain for new and brief definitions which
they could understand, and to make them tran-
scribe these. Arithmetic was another branch of
knowledge which required many a weary hour.
Geography was considered a matter of recreation
after dinner : and they pored over the maps with
a feelino; of delioht and amusement, which was
quite new to them. I also busied myself in giving
them some notions of the sphere, and of the form
and motion of the earth ; of the seasons and the
climates, and of the heavenly bodies. Every thing-
of this sort was as perfectly novel to them, as it
would have been to the islanders of Otaheite; and
even the elementary books, which are usually

' They have no slates in this country — nor in the valleys of
Piemont. — Two benevolent benefactors to the Protestant cause
in Italy, who wished to confer a benefit upon the schools of
Piemont, have enabled me to supply the Yaudois schools with
this useful and economical article.

neff's method of teaching. 259

put into the hands of children, were at first as
iuiintellio;il)le as the most abstruse treatises ou
mathematics. I was consequently forced to use
the simplest, and plainest modes of demonstration;
but these amused and instructed them at the same
time. A ball made of the box tree, with a hole
through it, and moving on an axle, and on which
I had traced the principal circles ; some large
potatoes hollowed out ; a candle, and sometimes
the skulls of my scholars, served for the instru-
ments, by which I illustrated the movement of
the heavenly bodies, and of the earth itself.
Proceeding from one step to another, I pointed
out the situation of different countries on the chart
of the world, and in separate maps, and took
pains to give some slight idea, as we went on, of
the characteristics, religion, customs, and history
of each nation. These details fixed topics of mo-
ment in their recollection. Up to this time I had
been astonished by the little interest they took,
Christian-minded as they were, in the subject of
Christian missions, but, when they began to have
some idea of geography, I discovered, that their
former ignorance of this science, and of tlie very
existence of many foreign nations in distant quar-
ters (A' the globe, was the cause of sucli iudiHcr-
ence. 13ut as soon as tlicv bc^an to Irani who
the people are, who re(|uire to liave tlic ( liopcl
preached to them, and in wliat part of th<; glolje
they dwell, they felt tlie same concern for the

s 2

260 SCHOOLS FOR YOUNG WOMEN.

circulation of the Gospel that other Christians
entertained. " These new acquirements, in fact,
enlarged their spirit, made new creatures of them,
and seemed to triple their very existence.

*' In the end, I advanced so far as to give some
lectures in geometry, and this too produced a happy
moral dcvelopement.

** Lessons in music formed part of our evening
employment, and those being, like geography,
a sort of amusement, they were regularly suc-
ceeded by grave and edifying reading, and by such
reflections as I took care to suggest for their im-
provement.

" Most of the young adults of the village were
present at such lessons, as were within the reach
of their comprehension, and as the children had
a separate instructor, the young women and
girls of Dormilleuse, who w'ere growing up to
womanhood, were now the only persons for whom
a system of instruction was unprovided. But
these stood in as great need of it as the others,
and more particularly as most of them were now
manifesting Christian dispositions. I therefore
proposed that they should assemble of an evening
in the room, which the children occupied during
the day, and I engaged some of my students to
give them lessons in reading and writing. We
soon had twenty young women from fifteen to
twenty-five years of age in attendance, of w^hom
two or three only had any notion of writing, and

SELF-DENIAL. 261

not half them could read a book of any difficulty.
While Ferdinand Martin was practising the rest
of my students in music, I myself and two of the
most advanced, by turns, were employed in teach-
ing these young women, so that the whole routine
of instruction went on regularly, and I was thus
able to exercise the future schoolmasters in their
destined profession, and both to observe their
method of teaching, and to improve it. I thus
superintended teachers and scholars at the same
time."

It is quite impossible for those who have
not seen the country, to appreciate the devoted-
ness to the Christian cause, which could induce
Neff to entertain even the thouoht of making; the
dreary and savage Dormilleuse his own head
quarters from November to April, and of persuad-
ing others to be the companions of his dismal
sojournment there. I learn from a memorandum
in his Journal, that the severity of that winter
commenced early. " We have been in snow and
ice since the first of November, on this steep and
rugged spot, whose aspect is more tcrril)le and
severe than any tiling can be supposed to he in
France." He liiniself was the native of a delight-
ful soil and climate, and even some of the moun-
taineers, whf)m he drew to fliaf ^tcrn spot, were
inhabitants of a far less rcj)ulsiv(' district, Imf
had yet made it their custom to seek a milder
region thaii tjieir own, during the inrlemeiicy of

262 SELl'-DEMAL.

ail Al])iiH' winter. To secure attendance and ap-
plication, when once his students were embarked
in their undertaking, he selected this rock, where
neither amusement, nor other occupations, nor the
possil)ility of frequent egress or regress, could
tempt them to interrupt their studies : — and he
had influence enough to induce them to commit
themselves to a five months' rigid confinement
within a prison-house, as it were, walled up with
ice and snow. Nothing can be compared to the
resolution and self-denial of the volunteers, who
enrolled their names under Neff for this service,
but the similar qualities, which were called into
action by our own gallant officers and seamen,
who embarked in the polar expeditions, with the
certainty before them of being snowed or iced up
during many months of privation. In their case
the hope of promotion and of reputation, and the
ardour of scientific research, were the moving in-
ducement. In that of the pastor and his young-
friends, a sense of duty, and thoughts fixed on
heavenly things constituted the impulse. To Neff
himself it was a season of incessant toil, and that
of the most irksome kind. He did violence to his
natural inclination every way. His mind and
body were kept in subjection. He was devoted to
his profession, as a minister and preacher of the
Gospel, and yet he suspended the pursuits, which
were more congenial to his tastes and habits, and
went back to first principles, and consented to

SELF-DENIAL. 263

teach the simplest rudiments, and meekly sunk
down to the practice of the humblest elementary
drudgery, when he saw the necessity of laying a
foundation for a sj^stem of instruction different to
that, which had hitherto prevailed in this neglected
region. His patience, his humility, his good-
humour and perseverance, his numberless expe-
dients to expand the intellect of his pupils, to store
their minds, and to keep up a good understanding
among them, arc all subjects of admiration, which
it is bevond the power of language to express.
W hose heart does not warm towards this true
disciple of the good Shepherd, who thus followed
his Divine Master's path, and gathered the lambs
with his arm, and carried them in his bosom, and
gently led them: this amiable teacher, who
practised all the lessons he taught on the first day
of the week, and rose with the morning sun of
the six other days, to pursue his routine of active
benevolence, — this wise master builder, who saw
that the spiritual condition of his Church would
be improved, by laying a foundation for tlie high
and holy things of the Gos})el, with the precious
stones of connnon-place information : who pre-
pared the minds of his flock for the reception and
comprehension of sacred truths, by giving tlicm an
insight into those secrets of knowledge, which some
arc weak ciiou^iii to imagine are too ])n)f()nii(l for
the sinijjh!, and too ;ittr;icti\ c for the religious.
The young mm w ho Mibiuittrd to their pastors

264 THE YOUNG CATECHISTS.

system ot" discipline at Dormilleuse, must have
their share also of our admiration. We cannot
but feel respect for students, who willingly shut
themselves up amidst the most comfortless scenes
in nature, and submitted to the severity of not less
than fourteen hours of hard study a day, where
the only recreation was to go from dryer lessons
to lectures in geography and music. It was a
long probation of hardship. Their fare was in
strict accordance with the rest of their situation.
It consisted of a store of salted meat, and r3"e
bread, which had been baked in autumn, and
when they came to use it, was so hard, that it re-
quired to be chopped up with liatchets, and to
be moistened with hot water. Meal and flour
will not keep in this mountain atmosphere, but
would become mouldy, — they are, therefore,
obliged to bake it soon after the corn is threshed
out. Our youthful anchorites were lodged gra-
tuitously by the people of Dormilleuse, who also
liberally supplied them with wood for fuel, scarce
as it was, but if the pastor had not laid in a stock
of provisions, the scanty resources of the village
could not have met the demands of so many
mouths, in addition to its native population. The
party consisted of five from Val Queyras, one from
Vars, five from Champsaur, two from Chancelas,
four from the lower part of the valley of Fressi-
niere, and eight from the immediate neighbour-
hood of Dormilleuse.

THE SEPARATION. 265

Neft' had the satisfaction to find that his plan
answered well, and this was reward enough. " I
never," said he, " can be sufiiciently thankful
to Almighty God for the blessing which he has
vouchsafed to shed upon this undertaking, and for
the streno-th he has o-iven me to enable me to bear
the fatigue of it. Oh ! may he continue to extend
his gracious protection, and to support me under
my infirmities, or rather, to deliver me from them,
that I ma}'^ be able to devote myself to his service
and o;lorv, to mv life's end ! "

A note of the expenditure upon this occasion
will excite some wonder in the minds of many
readers, who are not aware how much good may be
done at a small cost, when the stream of bounty
is made to pass through proper channels.

" Our disbursements for the adult school, in-
cluding candles, ink, and paper, the salary of an
assistant master, and food for the sixteen or seven-
teen students who came from a distance, did not
exceed 560 francs (about 22/. \0s.) for four
months. Of this sum I can replace a little more
than two-thirds, because some of the students
have repaid tlieir share of the expense, and even
the poorest furnished their (piotu of bread. We
flid not jjrovide (•(jminous ior those who belonged
to Dormillcuse, because they boarded at home."

The separation of this litth' ])arty is not the
least interesting {(art in tlie liistory of tlieir j)ro-
ceedings. Towards Easter, the opening spring

266 Tilt: SEI'AUATION.

gave tlie signal for their return to their several
communes, and the studies of the school-room
gave place to manual labour in the fields and
woods. The breakint;" up of a society, which
had been united by the strongest ties of mutual
respect and affection, could not be contemplated
without feelinos of reluctance on all sides — but it
was an event which was regarded with peculiar
regret by the mhabitants of the secluded Dormil-
leuse. It was a perfect epoch in its history to
have received in its bosom a company of young-
men, who, though they were of grave habits and
serious demeanour, yet gave a dash of unwonted
cheerfulness to the dull routine of Alpine life.
To see them in the village sanctuary, to hear
their voices at the close of day, and to listen to
the swelling harmony, when their evening hymn
of praise was raised to the throne of the Most
High, to receive them in their humble dwellings,
and to meet them by the torrent side, when the
weather would permit them to take exercise — these
were so many incidents to change the sameness
of their usually unvaried existence, and the day,
on which they were to bid farewell to their guests,
was one of painful anticipation to the Dormilleu-
sians. On the evening before they took their
leave, the young men of the village prepared a
supper for their new friends, and invited them to
the parting banquet. It was a simple and a
frugal repast, consisting of the productions of the

THE FAREWELL SUPPER. 267

chase. The bold hunter coritribiited his salted
chamois, the less enterprising* sportsman of the
mountain laid a dried marmot upon the table,
and one or two of the most successful rangers of
the forest, produced a bear's ham, as a farewell
offering in honour of the last evening, on which
the conversation of this interesting group was to
be enjoyed. It was at the same time a pleasing,
and a melancholy festival, but I do not find, in
the pastor's Journal, that either the achievements
of their ancestors, who had garrisoned this rocky
citadel, and had repulsed numberless attempts to
storm it, or the exploits of the chasseurs, who had
furnished the festive board, formed the conversa-
tion of the evening. It seems to have savoured
rather of the object, which originally brought
tliem together, and when one of the party re-
marked,— " What a delightful sight, to behold
so many young friends met together — but it is
not likely that we shall ever meet all together
again !"" The pastor took the words up like a
text, and enlarged upon the consolatory thought,
that thoui:;h they niiglit see each other's faces no
more in tliis life, they would most assuredly meet
again in a joyful state of existence in the world
to come, if they would persevere in tlieir Christian
course. He then gave tliem a ]);irtiii|j: benedic-
tion, and, after a h»ng and mounilul .-ileiice,
wliifli each seemed unwiUing to iHternipl, eiflier
by uttering tlie dreaded good-by*-. nr nioviiig

1

268 PUOGHESS MADE BY NEFFS STUDENTS.

from liis scat, the valedictory words and embraces
passed from one to another, and they separated.
The next morning at an early hour, they were
seen winding down the mountain path to their
several homes ; they of Dormilleuse gazed after
them till their figures were lost in the distance,
and the village on the rock appeared more dreary
and desolate than ever.

NefF left behind him some remarks touching
the progress which these students made, and their
several capacities, and dispositions, from which I
select the following passages.

" With regard to the improvement which I ob-
served, this varied according to the character of
the individuals. The greater part of them were
so illiterate and so raw, and the time was so short,
that it did not suffice for the inculcation of the first
elements of human knowledge. But yet we had
seven or eight, who will, I trust, answer the pro-
posed object, that is to say, they will become
qualified to discharge the functions of village
catechists, and to diffuse around them the pre-
cious knowledge of Jesus Christ. As many
more, without taking upon themselves the same
office, will consecrate the knowledge they have
acquired to the glory of God : and the rest,
though less advanced, will yet be likely to profit in
every respect by the information they have picked
up, and by the edifying things which they have
learnt. Two young women of Dormilleuse, (Anna

BAttTHELIMI ALBERT. 269

Maria Arnouf, and Susannah Baridon,) have
made very great progress, and will be extremely
useful to the Sunday-school, which has been
established in their village. They are the centre
and soul of a religious life to all in Dormilleuse,
and even in the other hamlets of the valle}^, by
means of the religious correspondence which they
keep up with many persons, whom they have
never seen. Many others have perseveringly
continued to seek for the kingdom of God and
his righteousness. Hitherto none of my young
eleves have been placed out as regular school-
masters, because the schools are not open in the
summer-time, but many of them preside over
Sunday-schools, which now begin to take in this
country. At Arvieux in Val Queyras, Barthelimi
Albert of Brunichard, aged nineteen, who is lame
in both feet, but in other respects strong and
healthy, and intelligent, and gifted with a good
ear for music, (a very rare accomplishment in
these mountains) reads and sings in tlie church
at Arvieux, and performs two services ' at Bruni-
chard every Sunday. He will also be at tlie liead
of the Sunday-school which I hope to establish
there. This youth contends firmly against the
apathy and rudeness of his coinpanioiis, and

' In all the Protestant churches of France* and Italy, a j^n-at
part of the puhlic service, Kuch as reading the chaj)ters and the
commandments, and giving out and leading the j)salms, is regu-
larly performed hy laymen.

270 ANDREW VASSEROTTI.

asrainst tlie levitv of some young men who bring
from Marseilles, (where they generally go to work
during the winter) some of the corruption of a
populous city. He does much to confirm the
good intentions of those who are well disposed.
At San Veran, Chaffrcy Matthew and Joseph
Jouve, take charge of the public services and the
Sunday-school. The latter is clever and well
informed, and has a great deal of originality of
character and firmness of purpose : during the
winter he advanced rapidly in spiritual attain-
ments, and from being proud and self-willed, is
become a faithful follower of the Lamb of God.
Daniel Isnel, also of San Veran, who intends to
be a schoolmaster, is about fifteen years old, and
is going to Languedoc, to place himself under
a relation who is following this vocation, continues
to manifest an excellent disposition, without being
a very great proficient as yet. Stephen Matthew,
w hom they wished to retain at Mens as precentor,
when he accompanied me there on his last visit,
is the most promising youth of his village, and I
have reason to hope, that he will be the means of
spreading the light of the Gospel, wherever he
goes. At Fousillarde, Andrew Vasserotti performs
three Sunda}^ services, and holds two meetings
during the week. He sings well, reads impres-
sively, expresses himself fluently, even in French,
and but for some few defects of style, would fre-
quently be thought to be a regular preacher.

THE BARIDONS. 271

The valley of Fressiniere, to my great astonish-
ment, has not furnished a single individual, who
is even moderately gifted. Even those, who in
the ordinary affairs of life, and in matters purely
spiritual, manifest great judgment, are incapable
of acquiring a knowledge of any of the sciences.
Notwithstanding all the pains I have taken with
them, and their own application, their progress
is by no means satisfactory. The most intelligent
of them is James Baridon of Uormilleuse, who,
until lately, was only distinguished for his great
bodily strength, and the violence of his character,
and the irregularity of his conduct. From the
time that he began to frequent our school, he be-
came a changed man, and has been doing all he
can to edify others ; but his past life prevents his
gaining the confidence of his neighbours, and I
think it would be a good thing if he would take
liimself away for a short time. Peter Baridon,
also of Dormilleuse, is perhaps the most steady
and Christian-minded youth of the whole village ;
it is he who has undertaken the charge of the
boys' Sunday-school there

" At Minsas, the two brotlicrs Bessoii, and at
Violins, John Baridon, have opened Sunday-
schools, and evening meetings. Francis Bcrtho-
lon of La liiljc, tlio first -l)orn of llic \ alley,
attended the sciiool during llic winter. Iml lie
des[)ises all human a('(juirenienl.s ; i kn«»\\ luit
wliy, and regrets tiie time he has spent in llieni.

'J/*J ALEXANDER VAI.ON.

This is the more to be luineiited, because with
his zeal and Christian attainments, he would be
able to do much good, if he \vould make himself
master of the languages, and would learn to read
better. Champsaur sent us five students, and my
assistant master, Ferdinand Martin, who has since
taken his departure for Paris. If he is well
encouraged and directed, he will make rapid
progress in all his studies. He is beloved and
regretted wherever he has been, and especially in
his native valley. One of the most promising
youths of Champsaur is Peter Albert, who burns
to consecrate himself to the ministry — but his
relations, though they are rich, will probably
refuse their consent. But the most surprising
person is Alexander Valon of St. Laurent, who,
previously to last autumn, made a boast of being
the wildest and most profligate man in all that
country. He had even suffered imprisonment for
eight months, for nearly killing a man. He ^ is
now at the head of the Lord's work in Champ-
saur, and supplies the place of Ferdinand Martin.
His former companions scarcely recognise him as
the same person. He passed the winter with us,
and though he is now thirty-three years of age,
the progress he made was very extraordinary.
He reads remarkably well, and will make a good
schoolmaster. He has already had several places

' XefF's great prudence and discernment induce me to hope,
that he was not deceived in the change wrought in this person.

JOHN ROSTAN. 273

oft'ered to him. The valley of Vars ', between
Guillestre and Barcelonette, contains but very
few Protestants, and sent us only one student,
John Rostan, aged eighteen, of a very decided
character, and of good abilities ; he will either
go to Paris and place himself under M. Olivier,
or he will become a schoolmaster. There is
another verj^ deserving young man at Vars, Peter
Tolosan, who is a cultivator of land in the sum-
mer, and a colporteur, or pedlar, in the winter, tra-

' Brockeden's animated description will help the reader to
comprehend the nature of the country about Vars, which I had
not an opportunity of visiting myself.

" The descent of the Col de Vars is gradual over a fine pastu-
rage, thence passing through St. Marie, and the village of Vars,
the traveller descends the mountain brow, between the valleys
of the Vars and D'Eserans, and a magnificent scene opens upon
him of Guillestre, and the fort of Mount Dauphin, the valley of
the Durance, and the mountains covered with glaciers, which
flank the Col de Lautaret.

" From Barcellonette, a path by the Col de la Vachere, leads
across the mountains to Embrun, but the chem'in royal, as
Bourcet calls it, lies by the course of the Ubaye, though in many
places not a vestige of a chemin remains, for the violence of the
Ubave, and the streams which fall into it, is so great in the
winter, as to leave the entire valley for miles a ])ed of stones and
black mud. After crossing a hill, and dcseending a zig-zag
road at the pass of La Tour, in losing sight of Laurent, all is
again sterile. On looking back, the deep course of the I'baye
is Hcen issuing from the defile of La Tuur, and the grand forms
of the mountain of Cuguiton dcs Tfois Erequrs, present a scene
which is savage, mountainous, and dreary."

1

'27 A THE COLPORTHLRS.

veiling' the country about Nismes. He has the re-
solution to avoid that species of falsehood, which
most men practise in his line of life, and to
demand a fixed price for his articles. At first,
after making this determination, he sold nothing,
but by persevering in it, he has had better custom
than others in the same business, so that many of
them have l)ecn obliged to follow his practice."

This is the second time that mention has been
made of the Colporteurs of Dauphine, and here
J will take the opportunity of remarking that
some of the religious Societies have made great
use of these itinerant venders, who follow their
wandering occupation on the borders of France,
Italy, and Switzerland, and supply the mountain-
eers and inhabitants of villages remote from towns,
with almost all the small articles of convenience
which they require. These men are employed
in the circulation of Bibles, Testaments, and
tracts, which they generally sell at reduced
prices, but in some cases they are allowed to dis-
tribute them gratis ; and, when disposing of their
other commodities, they have often produced very
beneficial effects, by dropping a word in good
season, concerning the more precious stores with
which their packs are furnished.

I know an officer of high rank in the British
service, and of whose Christian labours I never
can think without the deepest sentiments of re-
spect, whose time and talents, since the peace.

EDUCATION IN FRANCE. 275

have been devoted to translating the Gospels into
the patois of one of the Alpine provinces, and
whose principal dependence, for the circulation of
his selections of Scripture, in corners where it is
difficult to obtain access for them, rests on the
fidelity and zeal of the colporteurs. " It would
be tedious," says the Report of the Continental
Society, " to give the detail of all the operations
of the colporteurs, but it may not be uninterest-
ing to state, that one individual in a range of
country comprising fourteen towns, disposed of
3,900 of Leander Van Ess's New Testament, 500
of Gossner's, and 1,700 of De Sacy's.''

I cannot bring this chapter, on Neff's scholastic
labours, to a conclusion, without offering some
remarks upon the state of education in France,
and the difficulty of putting any system of national
education on a firm and good footing there. " To
establish a new school,"' says Vincent in his Vues
sur le Protestantism in France', " is a work of
enormous labour, in which patience the most per-
severing must not always expect to succeed. It is
necessary to create schoolmasters. We have ab-
solutely none. It is necessary to know how to
teacli, and therefore Normal, or Model, Schools
we must have for the instruction of Schoolmasters,
in uliicli they may be made acfjuain i-d wiiii the
best methods ol" iji)p;irliii<_r know Irdoc : in a word,

' Vol. ii. p. 32.

T 2

27() EDUCATION IN FRANCE.

ill wliicli themselves may learn the most difficult of"
all arts, the art of teaching. " It was this that Ncff
undertook to do, at a time when the attempt was
more arduous, than at the period wdien Vincent
published his work, (in 1829,) for the parti-pretre,
which had been o])posing- every comprehensive
system of education, was then on the decline.
This writer has stated, on the authority of M,
Soulier's Statistique, that the scarcity of Protes-
tant schools was so great, that on an average,
there was only one school for 2857 Protestants,
or supposing that each school contained thirty
scholars, a population of one hundred, reckoning
by round numbers, would only have one scholar.
M, Vincent allows for some exaggeration in this
statement, but with every allowance it shows how
want of funds, want of zeal, and want of well
qualified instructors, have combined to keep the
inhabitants of that country, which professes to be
the most civilized in the world, in a state of the
most woeful neglect. A still more recent publica-
tion \ complains not only that France ranks
considerably below England, Switzerland, great
part of Germany, and of the north of Europe,
Holland, and North America, in the scale of
nations, where provision is made for public educa-
tion, but that there is scarcely any country, except
Spain and Portugal, and others where the Ro-

' The Semeur, of November, 1831.

EDI CATION IN FRANCE COMPARED '217

maiiism of the middle ages still prevails, which
does not rise above her. It then states that more
than two-thirds of the entire French population are
unable to read ; that in many departments there
are whole villaii'es, where not more than three or
four of the inhabitants can read, and that according
to the official reports of the Minister of Public
Instruction, there are a great many communes,
where there are no elementary schools. In the
pursuit of this interesting inquiry, the Semeur
quotes the statistical table of M. C. Dupin to
show that Great Britain, with a population less
by half than that of France, has more scholars in
her oratuitous Sunday-schools only, than France
in all her schools put together, and concludes
with the observation, that the difference between
the state of education in those parts of the king-
dom which are Protestant, and those which are
Roman Catholic, is something enormous. Such
is the condition of France revolutionary, France
sceptical, France Roman Catholic, France refined
and philosophic, wlien compared with countries
under the influence of more steady and more
scriptural religious principles. " Wherever the
true princij)les of tin; Gospel are obscured," says
the same journal ', " either l)y scepticism or by
Romish sujxT-titiou, th<'re intellectual progress is
retar(h'(l. and we ni:i\ l;iv it down as a general

' The Scinour.

278 WITH THAT Ul- PROTESTANT COUWTRIES.

rulo, Avitli all the precision of a mathematical
problem, that national instruction and the num-
ber of scholars vary in every country, in a direct
ratio with the influence of the Gospel, and in an
inverse ratio with the influence of Popery and
monkery, or with sceptical philosophy." The
Semeur assip-ns the hio-liest rank in the scale
of educated nations to Protestant Scotland ; but
the Protestant population of the Valleys of Pie-
mont may take an equally, if not a more honour-
able place still, for there provision is made for the
elementary instruction of every child, without
any exception : and from all that I can collect, it is
a very rare case of neglect on the part of the
parents, if a single child can be found among the
Waldensian peasantry, of age sufficient to learn,
who cannot read.

In fact it has been reserved for Protestantism
only, to produce what the wise and the good of
all ages and countries have desired to see, namely
an entire population furnished with the means of
receiving education. The Gospel, in its pure
form, has done what philosophy and philanthropy
have made the su])ject of their eulogies, and of
their recommendation, but have never been able
to achieve : it has raised up a race of men, who
have consecrated themselves to the task of making
others acquainted with the most valuable part of
their own knowledge, and have laboured to do so,
not in the graceful walks of the refined, the

THE CHRISTIAN TEACHER. 279

clever, and the docile, but in the haunts of the
squalid, the dull, and the intractable. It was
for the sages of old, to attract admiration, and to
add to their fame by lecturing to young patricians,
on the popular literature of their day, and it is
for the learned and the liberal of our own times,
to praise and to patronize, and to promote by
their writings, and by their open purses, the
systems of instruction, which they think will be
extensively useful. None however, but such
men as Oberlin, and Neff, none but those who,
like them, have been under the strong influence
of Christian motives, have ever done violence to
their natural tastes and inclinations, and have
left the more agreeable, and equally legitimate
duties of their profession, to assume the functions
of the humble pedagogue and of the village dame,
and to teach the lowest rudiments to the lowest poor ;
not before the admiring eyes of the world, but in se-
clusion, and amidst all the disheartening circum-
stances of dirt and stench, of chilling cold or suf-
focating heat. Those wlio profess to be the be-
nefactors of their country, and the utilitarians
f)f the day, whose names are constantly before the
public, and who run away with ;iLl the ])raise of
philanthropy and wisdom, will, we trust, continue
to i'orin ])l;iiis lor the aiiiclioratioii ol"iii;iiikiii(i. ;iii(l
for the advaiicciiiriit of Imiiiaii kiiowicdgc ; but,
uiih'ss they arc actuated by tlic liiujicst aiui holiest
motives, thcv will not be any thine nnu-e tiian

280 THE CHRISTIAN TEACHER.

theorists : they will not be the working parties in
H cause, which never can be efiectually promoted
l)ut by those, who, feeling the power of the Gos-
})el, are constrained to acts of self-denying charity,
and to busy, practical benevolence, by Christian
love, and a deep sense of religious obligation. It
was this that led Neff to the dismal solitudes of
Dormilleuse, and shut him up with his twenty-five
pupils, and urged him to abandon for a time those
pursuits, which were most congenial to his mind
and habits, in order that he might lay a founda-
tion of knowledge and happiness, and contril)ute
something to the stock of general prosperity in a
district, which was separated from the more habit-
able parts of the world by rocks and mountains,
cold and sterility.

Nole. — The Journal of Education, No. 3. contains informa-
tion on the subject of education in France, confirmatory of what
I have advanced on this subject. It states that very little has
yet been done for the education of the lower orders, that " almost
every thing remains to be done," but that nothing will be done
till a sufficient number of schools shall be formed for the edu-
cation of masters. It intimates that " the theocratic or absolutist
party" has been the means of keeping the country in this
wretched state.

CHAPTER XI.

Neff's strength fads — Winter horrors of Dormilleuse — Nejf'
obliged to return to Switzerland — Parting Scenes — Neff goes
to the baths of Plombieres — His last address to his Alpine
floch — His sufferings and patience — His last hours — His
death at Geneva.

It was after the winter of 18*25, and the cold
spring of 18'26, when the severe duty of presiding
over the Normal School at Dormilleuse, and of
visiting his distant churches at regular intervals,
overwhelmed him with fatigue, that Neff began
to feel that his career must soon end. The long-
continued excitement and anxiety, the oft repeated
journeys on foot in all weathers, the sharpness of
tlie external air, and the suffocating heat of a
small room, in which so many persons, not re-
markahle for tlieir cleanliness, were crowck'd
together, day after day, tliese, togetlier witli the
exertion of dailv and ahnost hourly lectures,
would liaN'c uiidrruiiiicd \\\r. most rohiist haiiic.
I)<:j)i'i\ aliou added to hard work, and llic irit';^n-
larity. as well a-^ llie coarse iiiiw lioloome <|iialit\'
of his meals, liroii^lit on a weakness oi sloiiiaeli,
w liicli was lollowcd li\ a tiMal deranu'ement oi tlu*

282 NEFFS STRCN(JTll FAILS.

digestive organs. Had he relaxed his exertions
in time, he might have been saved, but in the
destitute state of the Alpine churches, he could
not reconcile it to his mind to desert his post of
duty, so long as he had any strength remaining.
He struggled through the summer of 1826 pretty
Avell, l)ut when the winter came, and he resumed
his labours both in the school, upon the rock, and
in visiting his scattered hamlets, while the snow
blocked up some of the more direct passes, and
rendered all difficult of access, it was more and
more manifest that the conflict could not last
long. The internal pains, which he suffered from
indigestion, were aggravated by an accidental
disaster. To avoid the danger of an avalanche,
he traversed a dhhr'is of rock ; his foot slipped,
and he sprained his knee so badly, that the effects
were felt long and severely. His letters, written
from Dormilleuse in the early part of 1827,
breathe the same devout and resigned spirit as
before, but I fancy that I trace in some of them a
melancholy foreboding, that his projects had just
been completed in time, and that the erection of
his school-room, and the instructions which he
had been enabled to give to those, who were
destined to the catechetical and scholastic office,
were seasonably completed before his race was
run. The following gives an animated descrip-
tion of the wintry horrors of Dormilleuse.

" Thanks to the generosity of my friends, our

WINTRY HORRORS OF DORMILLEUSE. 283

little school is now floored and glazed — the benches
and seats are all finished, and while all the other
schools in this country are held in damp and dark
stables, where the scholars are stifled with smoke,
and interrupted by the babble of people and the
noise of the cattle, and are obliged to be constantly
quarrelling with the kids and fowls in defence of
their copv-books, or shifting their position to avoid
the droppings from the roof, we have here a com-
fortable and well warmed apartment. I am again
conducting a school for the education of those,
whose business it will be to educate others — it
now consists of aliout twenty young men from the
difterent villaoes. We are buried in snow more
than four feet deep. At this moment a terrible
hurricane is raging, which dashes the snow about
in clouds — we can scarcely put our feet out of the
house, and I know not when my letter will reach
vou. Durino; the late abundant falls of snow,
and the violence of the wind, our communication
with the other vallevs has been both difficult and
dangerous. The avalanches threaten us on all
sides. They have been falling thick, especially
about Dormilleuse.

" One Sundav evening, our students and many
of tlie inhal>itants of DormiUeuse, were returning
home after the scniion at V^ioliiis. wIkh tin y nar-
rowK c-capcd an a\ alaiiclic. It rolled down into
a verv narrow (hlilc, and Ifll between two groups
of |»copl('. Had it rallcii a momrnt vooner or

284 WINTRY IIOIUKMIS OK DORMILLEUSli.

later, it would have rolled one of the parties into
the abyss below, and would thus have destroyed
the flower of the youth of this region. But the
Eternal, who rules over the waves of the sea,
commands also the ice and the snow, and protects
his children in the midst of peril. The villages
are every where menaced with the impending
danger. Upon several occasions lately, I have
seen even our calm and daring Alpines express
anxiety. In fact, there are very few habitations
in these parts which are not liable to be swept
away, for there is not a spot in the narrow corner
of the valley, which can be considered absolutely
safe. But terrible as their situation is, they owe
to it their religion, and perhaps their physical
existence. If their country had been more secure
and more accessible, they would have been exter-
minated like the inhabitants of Val Louise."

When his eleves separated for the second time,
the pastor returned to Arvieux, and nursed his
sprained knee, but his stomach had so entirely lost
its tone, that it could receive nothing but liquids,
'' I perceived," said he, when bespoke of himself
afterwards, " that my strength was diminishing
rapidly, for the first time I became conscious that
it was time to seek for that succour, which, with
all their kindness, these poor mountaineers could
not procure me."

It was heart-rending to him to think of quitting
the vallovs, where he liad been of so much use, and

PARTING SCENES. 285

^vhel•e he bad been received and treated so aftec-
tionately : but he submitted to the absolute neces-
sity of a removal to his own native climate, and
made preparation for a return to Geneva by slow
journeys. From henceforth, during his short con-
tinuance on earth, we shall find him exercising
the passive virtues of a suftering Christian, as emi-
nently as he had displayed the active qualities of
a zealous man of God.

Neff took leave, for ever, of his presbytery at
La Chalp, on the 17th of April, 18'27. He was
surrounded by so many afflicted friends, that he
was constrained to repeat the Apostle's tender re-
buke, " M hat, mean ye to weep, and to break
mine heart ? "' At the distance of about three miles
from Arvieux,just before he entered the gloomiest
part of the pass of the Guil, he was met by four
young men, from Dormilleuse, who had then
walked eight leagues since sunrise, to have the
melancholy satisfaction of paying their farewell
attentions to their beloved pastor. They considered
it no fatigue to continue walking by his side till
they arrived at Guillestre. Tlie next morning,
witli the earliest dawn, one of the faithful creatures,
who had observed how jciiiil'iil ii was for Neff, in
his exhausted state, t<j i)iir-ii«' lii< joiinic y <»n foot,
set out for Fressiniere to procure a horse for the
invalid. He met a parly consisting of tlie lirads
of families, wlio were on their way to bid adieu to
the pastor, and great was their joy, wiien tlicy

286 PAUTINi; SCENES.

learnt, that the painful good-bye would yet be
deferred for a short time, and that it was his in-
tention to pass through the valley of Fressiniere on
his route to Mens, from whence he was to proceed
to Switzerland by the easier direction of the high-
road. But that none of his flock might feel them-
selves forgotten, or neglected, NefF turned his face
towards Vars, the furthest out-post on the south
of his vast parish, and there preached a farewell
sermon to the w^eeping Protestants of that village.
His last charge to John Rostan of Vars, of whom
honourable mention is made in NefF's Journal,
and whose zeal and attainments gave him hopes,
that he would become a useful minister of the
Church, was, that he should make frequent tours
through the several hamlets during the summer,
and keep things in order. He also left that young
man some money to bear his expenses, and there
is every reason to believe tliat the expectations
entertained of him wdll be realized.

On my way to Dormilleuse, from the Piemontese
Valleys, in 1829, Rostan heard of my arrival at
Guillestre, and accompanied me from thence to Val
Fressiniere. I was struck with the affectionate and
respectful manner in which the young catechist w^as
greeted, as we passed through the several hamlets,
and judged that his services would be extremely
beneficial in the valleys, ifhecoidd get ordained.
He had been to the university of Montaul)an for a
term or two, but had found it too expensive to con-

PARTING SCENES. 287

tiiiue liis studies there, it is therefore to be feared
that his hopes of ministerial advancement will be
disappointed, and that he must remain in the
humbler station of a catechist.

When Neff proceeded through Cliancelas, and
Palons, and Fressiniere, and Violins, and Min-
sas, and Dormilleuse, on his way to Mens, the
struggle between his emotions, excited by a fare-
well visit to the cottages of his friends, and his
sense of the necessity of keeping up their spirits
and his own, was a terrible conflict for his weak-
ened frame. " However, I was not sorry,"' said
he in one of his letters, " to have seen once more
my friends of the mountains. I observed with jo)%
that, amidst the sadness caused by my departure,
those who were truly established in religious princi-
ples, bore it with the greatest fortitude, and joined
their voices to mine, in assuring the more dejected
that Jesus Christ, the chief Shepherd, never leaves
us, and that with him, we can want nothing : that
the ministers of the Gospel are like so many John
the Baptists, whose mission should be considered
as done, when they have pointed out the Lamb of
God, and that they, and dependance on tliem,
ought to diminish, in proportion as Jesus increases
in the licart. Several otihosc who idt ilic <^rcate8t
affection for me, exclaimed, ' had you always re-
mained witli those among wiioni voii first hiboiircd,
we niight have contiinu^d in darkness until now ;
it is fair that some others should now ha\e the
1

'JSS NEFF UKTURNS TO SWITZERLAND.

l)c'noHt of your niiuistry. May the Lord accom-
pany you, and bless your labours, every where,
for his name's sake.' '

The invalid stopped for a short time at Mens,
Avhere he was again deeply affected by the atten-
tions of his friends in that town, and in its vicinity ;
and his anxiety to address them once more from
the pulpit, induced him to exert himself in a man-
ner which added considerably to his debility.
When he arrived at Geneva, he was in a state of
extreme languor and suffering, but his native air
produced a temporary improvement, which gave
some faint hopes that he might yet be restored.
The ever busy spirit, however, would not suffer
the body to rest ; he imprudently attempted to
do things beyond his strength, and in a very short
time his malady had increased so much, that he
found himself utterly unable to take any solid food :
the digestive organs seemed to be completely
paralyzed. In this miserable condition he drag-
ged through the remainder of the year 1827, and
the spring of 1828, when, as a last expedient, it
was recommended to him to try the effects of
mineral waters.

Neff was not deceived respecting his own
condition ; he had very little hope of recovery ;
but he did not think it right to neglect the advice
of his physician, who ordered him to go to the
baths of Plombieres. He left Geneva on the
19th of June, to travel thither by short stages,

PLOMBIERES. 289

and journeyed slowly throug-h the cantons of
Vaiid, Neufchutel, Berne, and Bale, where he
had preached the Gospel, eight years before. It
was soothing- to his mind, to meet again the ac-
quaintances he had made there, and to be cor-
dially greeted by many others who were strangers
to him, but who gathered round him with affec-
tion for the sake of the good work in which he
had been engaged.

The journey, or rather thejoy he felt, at the
reception he met every where, having reanimated
him, he had strength to preach in every place
where he stopped. At Plombieres, he found
what is to be met with at all watering places, a
confused mixture of every moral and physical
evil, and he felt himself called upon to publish the
word of life amidst this throng of persons, whose
minds were occupied chiefly by their sufferings,
or their pleasures, ' where no one,' said he,
' seemed to think of eternity.' Madame de C — ,
wife of the prefect of the Vosges, a Protestant
lady, proposed to him to establish a public service
on Sundays, and she made it known to all the
Protestants of the place. The congroiiation was
large, and lie had never before preached to so
Ijrilliant an audience, yet he spoke with as much
freedom and >iiii|ili('itv, as lie liad done to the
mountaineers of \\h'. AI|)>. < )ii ilif succeeding
Siiii(hi\s tlicrf was a great miiiiltcr <»f I^ouian

u

290 PLOMBIERES.

Catliolic'S ill atteiulauce, and two large apartments
could scarcely contain the hearers. Many per-
sons of both persuasions appeared to take delight
in these services.

The use of the waters and the baths promised
at first to produce a good effect. His strength
and his appetite improved, and it was thought
adviseablc to add solids to the milk, wdiich, for
a whole year, had been his only nourishment,- but
this experiment proved highly injurious. After
some days he suffered more severely than ever,
and it was evident that the most skilful care
could not arrest the progress of the disorder for
many weeks more. On the approach of the bad
season at Plombieres, it would have been right to
have moved him away at once, but his total loss
of strength rendered every exertion more and
more hazardous : yet in this melancholy situation,
his letters contained such sentiments as these : —
" I, cannot sufficiently thank God for his goodness
to me ! What composure, what peace, he per-
mits me to enjoy ! Until lately it appeared to me
impossible to support the idea of being cut off
from the number of Christ's labourers, and of
being condemned to absolute inaction ; but the
Lord no sooner saw^ fit to call upon me to make
this sacrifice, than he made me sensible that,
what is impossible with man, is possible with him.
Sustained by his grace, I can say Amen to his

NEFF RETURNS TO GENEV^V. *291

decrees." Wliilst he was confined to his bed, he
received several visits from one of the cures of
Plombieres, and from some young Romish eccle-
siastics. ' Had they come for controversy/ said
NefF, ' I should not have been able to receive
them, weak as I was ; but they carefully avoided
every thiuo- that could fatigue me, and even lis-
tened willino-ly to the few words I addressed to
them. They were surprised to hear a Protestant
speak of the conversion of the heart and of s])i-
ritual life, in the same terms as some of their
most eminent divines. I have often observed that
with such persons, it is much better, if possible,
to build up and to plant, than to tear away and to
destroy ; most of their prejudices proceed from their
ignorance of all that concerns true Protestantism,
and they are half disarmed, when we speak to them,
without any argument, of that which constitutes
the life, the strength, and the peace of the soul.'

Certain prescriptions having, in some degree,
restored his strength, lie quitted Plombieres, but
not without expressing his regret at being de-
prived of the affectionate care of his iii((li(;il at-
tendant, Dr. Turck, who is \v«'ll known to tlw
visitors at Plombieres, for liis biimanc disposition,
as well as for liis professional talents. Tlii^ time
too, tlic jounic\ aLi'ain sccnu.'d to n'\i\c tlic in-
\ali(l a little, and on hi- arrisal at ( icnc\a, sonic,
faint |jop(!S wctc clicri.-^hcil, ' hni Nury soon, said
oiH- of ]\\< fVifnds, " a- thon^li the strciitrth of his

II 2

'292 IHS SUFFERINGS.

body liad been absorbed by that of his mind, he
became worse than before."

Tlie period of his sufferings, at which we are
now arrived, was long and dreary ; his stomach
could scarcely bear a little milk whey, for even
with this he often suff'ered terribly from indiges-
tion, and the pain it caused was so violent, that
he could not venture to take this slight nourish-
ment, until after he had endured the pangs of
hunger for many hours. When he was no longer
able to go out of doors, they contrived all kinds
of manual occupation to assist his digestion.
Conversation was forbidden him : only a small
number of his friends were permitted to enjoy the
privilege of seeing him, and, during these visits,
they could only press his hand, and render him
some trifling service. He loved to see them for
a few moments, and when he was fatigued, he
made a sign for them. to leave him. " It was
most heart rending," said a spectator of his suff'er-
ings, " to behold him, thus pale and emaciated,
his large eyes beaming with an expression of
fortitude and pain ; covered, from head to foot,
with four or five woollen garments, which he was
obliged to change frequently ; submitting, in
silence, and with the greatest calmness, to the
application of the moxas \ a painful operation,

' An Indian or Chinese moss, used in the cure of some dis-
orders, by buminj; it on the part affected.

Ills ANXIETIES. 293

which was constantly repeated ; suffering the
pangs of hunger ; counting the hours, and at last
venturing to take something, then waiting with
anxiety till the food, such as it was, should digest,
and thus passing all his days and nights during a
long succession of relapses, and of physical pros-
tration, which we sometimes looked upon as a
relief."

As he became more and more debilitated and
exhausted by hunger, new kinds of decoctions
were continually tried, but what he at first took
with apparent pleasure he soon refused. His
thoughts were perpetually turning towards the
Alps, and there he seemed to have centered all
his anxieties. If he still cherished an earthly
wish, and ventured to hope against hope, it was
that the Almighty would again vouchsafe to em-
ploy him, in the work which he had there com-
menced. When he could no longer write to his
Alpines himself, he requested his mother to
become his amanuensis, and to her he dictated
his energetic exhortations, and ihc toucliing ex-
pression of Ills never-ceasing solicitude on llicir
account.

In the loUowing extracts from two of these
letters, the reader will perceive liow strong liis
feelings were even in (h.-atli, and will Ik- ablt- to
understand something of tlir lorcc of ( liri-iiaii
affections and anxieties, ami may -liidy tlicm, as
a t.'d)lct on wliicji were wrillcii tlir [uiir and it a!

•^[)4 LETTi:i{ TO llli: ALl»INliS,

sentiiiicnts of a minister of religion, when all
worldly considerations had passed away.

From a Letter, dated October 6th, 1828.

" In the state of complete isolation in which
1 am kept by my long sickness, a portion of my
time is employed in imaginary excursions into
Danphine. My mind wanders, as in a dream,
over the high Alps and the Trieve '. My heart
accompanies it in its progress, and finds itself
(not without emotion) in all those places, where
it has experienced so many delightful sensations ;
especially where it has beat for the conversion of
poor sinners, and where I have been in the so-
ciety of precious souls, eager for the word of sal-
vation. Again, I pass through the valleys, and
over the mountains, and- along the shepherds'
paths which I have so often trodden alone, or
with my friends. I find myself again in the cot-
tages, in the stables, in the orchards, where I
have conversed of heavenly things with all those
who are dear to me in Jesus Christ. I see them
all separately or together, I hear them and speak
to them. In such moments as these, the feelings,
which then animated me, naturally resume their
influence, and, as I did then, I lift up my soul to
the Father of every perfect gift, in prayer for his
dear children. In this retrospect also, the re-

' The countrv about Mens is so called.

LETTER TO THE ALPINES. 295

membrance of my brethren who are no more, pre-
sents itself to my mind, and 1 sigh deeply, but
soon I bless God for them, and I rejoice to see
them in the sheepfold, sheltered from all evil, and
guarded against any wandering. Doubtless I
cannot thus recall times and places, without feel-
ing many very liumiliating recollections, nor
without thinking that, if now I am, as it w ere, set
aside, and cut off from the service of Christ, I
have well deserved to be so. These reflections
are salutary ones, and 1 should be wrong to banish
them. But that which throws the deepest shade
over the j)icture, is the number of those who have
perished in the wilderness, wdio, after having come
out of Egypt, have returned thither in their hearts,
not having had courage to press forward to pos-
sess the good land ! How many unhappy souls do
I remember amongst you, who have been shaken
by the preaching of the word, who have trembled
at the foot of Sinai, who have exclaimed in
anguish, ' what shall 1 do to be saved '/ wlio
have for a time renounced tlic worhl, borne its
hatred, and suflered affliction with tlir jx'ople of
God. \\ ho have then become tind of the way,
have iH) hjngcr (h'eaded the wrath to come, liavi;
forgotten alikt- the tiireats and the |)romises,
and have faMcM ash'cj), after liaviii;^,- w atclird,
long eiioiiLih, ahis I to be without excuse, ami
to pn'|)ar<' lor tliciiisclves eternal sorrow, and
till' iiio-t terrible <oii(l<'iiinatioii ' ( )|i ' lii»w the

296 LETTEU TO THi: ALPINES.

reniciiibraiicu of them grieves me ! how deeply I
lament the loss of those dear children, of whom
my heart has been long in travail, and who have
not been able to attain to the new birth, who have
appeared bright as flowers, but like barren flowers,
have produced no fruit ! But what shall I say of
those who have yielded some fruit, who have
begun a new life, who have tasted the heavenly
gift, who have borne witness to the truth, who
have even brought many to the light of it, and
who have returned, like the sow to her wallowing
in the mire, who have forgotten the purification
of their past sins ; who have forsaken the right
way like Balaam, and have done despite unto the
Spirit of grace, wherewith they have been sancti-
fied ? Take heed, dear friends, to that expres-
sion of the Saviour : ' Abide in me, as the branch
abides in the vine.' He does not only say there,
as he did elsewhere : ' Come unto me,' but,
' Abide in me !' And how ? As the branch,
which never separates itself from the vine ; with-
out which, and apart from which, it has no life."

Fj'om a second Letter, dated March 1829.

" Five months have passed away since you re-
ceived the address of which this letter is the sequel,
and during that time I have had much experience.
I am considerably weaker than I was then, and
I shall not be able to arrange methodically what
remains for me to say to you, indeed 1 shall have

LETTER TO THE ALPINES. 297

power to say very little ; but I am most anxious
to address you. I feel constrained to confirm to-
day all that I have before spoken, and all that I
preached to you and told you when I was with
you ; for I have now proved those truths which I
then taught you. Yes, now, more than ever, I
feel the importance, absolute importance, of being
a Christian indeed, of living in habitual com-
munion with the Saviour, of abiding in him. It
is in the time of trial, that we can speak of these
things as we ought. A Christian without afflic-
tion is only a soldier on parade ; but I experience
it now, and I will openly bear witness of it, whilst
God still gives me strength so to do. It is strictly
true, that, through much tribulation, we must enter
the kingdom of heaven, and we must personally
feel what is said of the Prince of our salvation,
' that it became him to be made perfect through
affliction.' Though he were the Son of God, yet
' learned he obedience by the things which he
suffered.' How much more need have we our-
selves of this instruction. Yes, I can now say, it
is good for me that I have been afflicted ; this trial
was needful for nic I felt beforehand that it
was rerpiisite, and 1 (l<j not fear to tell you, that
i prayed to the Lord for it. My situation is indeed
painful; I, who (l('li;j,litc(l .-<> much in an active,
stirriu'^- lilc, havtj I«jng been rciluccd id ihi' most
(•»(iii|ihf r incrtiiui. >cai'c(I\- ahh' to cat, drink,
shell, -peak. oi- to h.-«tcu to rcadiu;^. or to recei\e

298 LETTKR TO Tin; A1.IMNE8.

the visits ot" iiiv brethroii, and fecliiio; it a great
ertort to dictate these few lines, I am weighed down
bv the pains of sickness, and often I am deprived,
by agonies, or Ijy the wiles of Satan and my own
heart, of the sense of Gods presence, and of the
consolations which it would afford me. I can,
liowever, without hesitation declare, that I would
not exchange this state of trial, for that in wliich
some of my years have been passed, even in the
midst of my ministerial labours ; for though my
life may have been spent in the service of Christ,
and may have appeared exemplary to the eyes of
men, I find in it so much unfaithfulness, so many
sins, so many things which, in my sight, and
above all in the sight of the Lord, have polluted
my work, — I have passed so much time in forget-
fulness of God, that had I still thirty years to live,
I should prefer a hundred times over passing
them on this bed of languor and anguish, to re-
covering my health and strength, and not to lead
a life more truly Christian, more holy, more en-
tirely devoted to God than I have done hitherto.
Ah ! my dear friends ! how much time we lose,
of how many blessings and graces we deprive
ourselves, when we live far from God, in levity
and thoughtlessness, in seeking after perishable
things, in the gratification of the flesh, and of self-
love. Now I feel that it is so, and you will feel it
also in the day of trial. Redeem then the time :
I cannot re])eat it too often ; live unto God, by

LETTER TO THK ALPINES. 299

faith, by ])rayer, and by serious conversation.
But can I recommend duties to you without notic-
ing those, whicli you are bound to fulfil towards
that multitude who live in the darkness, out of
whicli the Lord has brought you by his grace.
Should the Church of Christ be contented, like
the garrison of a besieged town, to defend herself
and preserve her own territory ? Ought she not,
on the contrary, to make continual sallies, and to
advance, like a victorious army, over the enemy's
land ? So soon as a tree ceases to grow, it begins
to wither away ; so soon as a Church ceases to ad-
vance it becomes torpid, and begins to decline.
Ah I if you feel the infinite worth of your heaveidy
calling ; if you know that love of Christ which
passeth all understanding, and the riches of the
glory of his inheritance in the saints, and what is
the excellent greatness of his power towards us
who believe, if you have tasted how good the Lord
is, and how precious is the lot which is fallen to us,
if at the same time you know the value of immor-
tal souls, and how dreadful is tlie fate of those,
who know not Jesus, can you ever forget the worth
of that glorious title, child of God, which you
bear? Can you ever be any thing l)ut C'hristlans,
if you hav(! felt wliat infinite hap|)iiM'ss if is to
be a ( ']iri>f iaii ' Voii will be siicii. in all tilings
and ill all places ; ^■oll will w i>li tin- world fo bc-
conic siicli ; each oiur of \ on will bccoiiic, in mmiic
wise, a witiic-^ of ( io(| - gi'acc, a iiii>>ionar\\ a

1

300 LETTliU TO THE Al.lMNE.S.

preacher, a minister of Christ. Your heart will
hiirii with zeal for the salvation of souls, and from
it will ascend, without ceasing, as from a burning-
altar, sighs and prayers in their behalf. Labour
then in the kingdom of God ; be courageous in
this holy warfare, give no rest to yourselves. Cease
not to importune the Lord, till he re-establish
Jerusalem, and till he make it to flourish again
upon the earth.

" As to myself, I have every reason to believe
that my task is finished ; I wait, until by means
of trials and afflictions, the Lord shall accomplish
w ithin me that work of patience, which must be
perfected ; and may he then take me, how and
when he pleases, to his eternal rest. Having then
no hope of seeing you again in this world, and
not thinking that I shall be able to write more, I
must take leave of you, recommending you from
this time forward to God and the word of his
grace.

" Oh, my dear friends, how^ many things still
remain for me to say to you ! how many things
would I still call to your attention ! but the Lord
will supply them.

" Sometimes peruse again and again these last
exhortations, w^iich I have given you, and beseech
the Lord to enable you to put them in practice.
Above all read the Bible : go constantly to that
tree of life which bears fruit in all seasons : you
will always find there some fruit ripe for you,

LETTER TO THE ALPINES. 301

some word wliicli will do good to voiir souls. If
you have opportunities for any other reading, let
it be chosen agreeably to the will of God : I should
wish, for instance, that each of you should possess
the Pilgrim's Progress, and the Life of Bimyon,
that conscientious and experienced Christian. Try
to read also in the Paris Missionary Journal,
(second year, No. 3.) the Life of the Missiouart/
Brainerd. I hope that they will soon publish those
excellent Letters of the Minister Charles Jlieu,
who died in Denmark. Another work which I
expect will soon appear, and which I cannot too
strongly recommend beforehand, is the Ancient
and Modern History of the Bohemian and Mora-
vian Brethren. There you will see what a Christ-
ian ought to be, and what a true Church of Jesus
Christ may be. This work will be too expensive
for each one of you to purchase it for himself;
but some of you can contribute jointly to have it
in common. Lastly, I shall recommend to you, as
a book of prayer and edification, as well as a col-
lection of hymns, the compilation ])ublished at
Geneva, under the title of Psalms, J///tn/is, Sjiiri-
tiial Songs, ^t.

" I wish, my very dear tVit-nds, my dear brotlicrs
and sisters, that I could designate each of you by
name; but, tliank (iod, ihcrt- would he too miucIi
\<) do. iiiid I de-ire that eaeli ol \(mi iMa\' read those
letters, as il the\' were addressed to himself in
jiarticular ; for \ou know ni\' aflection lor \-ou all.

30*2 l-RTTEK TO TJIi: ALPINES.

and how ardently I wish to meet you all again in
that kingdom, where ' God will wipe away all
tears from our eyes, where there will be no more
death, neither sorrow, nor crying.'

" Be of good courage, then, my dear friends ! We
shall soon meet again, and it wall be for ever, for
ever ! Think upon this, and grieve not at our short
separation. Once more adieu, my dear brothers
and sisters in Jesus Christ ! May the Lord bless and
keep you ! May he give you that peace and joy
which the world cannot take away !

" Your very affectionate brother,

" Felix Neff."

The interest which Neft' expressed so forcibly,
in his letters, in the fate of his beloved Alpines,
led them to believe, that his strength was reno-
vated, and encouraged them to hope, that they
should yet see him again in the midst of them \
Some of his friends, therefore, wrote to Mens, and
to the valleys of Fressiniere, and Queyras, and
prepared them to expect the worst. The answers

' A few days before his death, he was asked ])y one of his
most intimate friends, if he still adhered to the sentiments which
he had expressed in his two farewell letters to his Alpines, of
October and March. His answer was given with all the force
that his debilitated frame would permit him to use, " I feel as
if I should wish to preach those things even in paradise," and he
then asked for a pen that he might sign a confession to that
effect, but it was very properly judged that he was too weak for
such an effort.

THEIR ANSWER. 303

which were received, were full of grief and con-
sternation. In one of them, addressed to Netl'hini-
self, there was this simple, but fervent expression
of affliction, and self-reproach.

" It is we, it is we, who are the cause of your
long illness. » Had we been more ready to listen
to you, you would not have had occasion to fatigue
yourself in the deep snow, nor to exhaust your
lungs, and all the powers of your body. Oli, how
much pain has it cost you to teach us, like our
good Saviour ; you forgot yourself for our sakes.
Dear pastor, sensible of the affection you have
always manifested towards us, we desire, with all
our hearts, to be useful to you. We can say, with
truth, that if our lives could be of service to you,
we would give them, and then we should not be
doing more for you than you liave done for us.
May the Lord bless you, and grant you patience
in this long trial. May he shower upon you a
thousand benedictions from on high, and recom-
pense you for all the pains you have taken for
us I Your reward is in licavcn : an iimiiorfal crown
awaits v<>ii. \\ (.' will coucIikIc 1)\ iiitrcating your
prayers in our behalf ; unworthy as we are, we do
not forget you in ours. Every family, witliout ex-
ception, from the heights of Romas to the foot of
the Influs, salutes you, and you will siMthc uaiiM-s
of souk: ol" tliciii ill llii> IcHcr. We arc your
unworthy, but ciiliicl\ dcNdinl brother.-.

These artless aii<l tciidrr line- were Ibllowcd \>\

304 Ills LAST DAYS.

a great number of sio-natures, tliose of the heads of
the families of Dormilleuse and its vicinity proba-
bly of all who could sign their name. In the same
letter these good men proposed to depute two per-
sons from among them to see him once more, or
to send him the money, which such a journey
would cost, if he needed it ; but NefF refused both
these offers, lest he should be a charge to them.
He displayed his disinterestedness in another way
about this time. Having received a bill of 400
francs, which w^ere due to him, he said, " This
money is no longer mine, it is for the missionary
of the Alps," and he sent it to M. Blanc at Mens,
to be employed as the donors had intended.

During this prolonged illness, his friends watched
by him by turns, but until the few last nights of his
life he would not allow them to remain standino;
about his bed, he even suft'ered inconvenience
rather than call to them. By day, however, it was
necessary to be constantly near him, to lift him
up, and to moisten his lips with a sponge steeped
in milk, mixed with a little lemon-juice ; he took
nothing else. They applied friction to his stomach
to soothe the pains of hunger, and even in this ex-
tremity he retained such a playfulness of mind,
that when he would ask one of them to rul) him,
he called out " give me my dinner."

" ^ His voice became so weak that it was neces-

' This account of NefT's last days is taken from the " Notice
siir Felix Xeff" published at Geneva in 1831.

HIS LAST DAYS. 305

sary to go very close to him in order to hear it ; he
spoke with great difficidty and with severe pain,
yet he wilHnglv endured this suffering when he
had any salutary advice to give us/'

" We had the satisfaction,"' said a narrator of
the dying scene, " of being much with him towards
the close of his painful career, and we never heard
a murmur escape from his lips. He was grateful
for the affection shown towards him, and returned
it abundantly. Often, after our poor services, he
threw his arms round our necks, embraced us,
thanked us, and exhorted us with all his soul to
devote ourselves to God. ' Believe my experience,'
said he, ' He only is your sure trust. He only is
truly to be loved. If you should one day be em-
ployed in the preaching of the Gospel, take heed
not to work to be seen of men. Oh, with how
many tilings of this kind do I reproacli myself!
My life, which appears to some to have been well
employed, has not been a quarter so much so
as it might have been ! How much precious time
have I lost!' He accused himself of unfaithfulness
in the employment of liis time, and of having
been vain-glorious : he, wliose laboui's werc^
scarcelv known to a few friends ! wlio liad refused
to marrv. tlial bis heart might be entireU (IcNdled
to lii- Master, and who-c ai'drnl cliarilN lor liis
fcllow-rreatnrc- liad ltron<_ilit liini. al I lie age of
thirty-one, to liis bed of (b-atli ! Knowing liis h)vo
fr»r tarTPd niusir, wefrerpHMitlv a'-seinblecl in a rof)m

3()G HIS LAST DAYS.

near his own, and sung, in an under tone, verses
ot" his favorite h^^mns, particularly ' Rien 6 Jesus
que ta grace,' and a paraphrase on the thirty -first
chapter of Jeremiah, which he had himself com-
posed. This singing filled his soul with a thousand
feelings and recollections, and affected him so
much, that we were obliged to discontinue it, though
he did not see us, and he heard us but faintly.

" About a fortnight before his death, he looked
on a mirror, and discovering unequivocal signs of
dissolution in his countenance, he gave utterance
to his joy : ' Oh, yes ! soon, soon I shall be going
to my God !' From that time he took no more
care of himself : his door was opened to all, and
the last hours of the missionary became a power-
ful mission. His chamber was never empty, he
had a word for every one, until he was exhausted
by it. In the full enjoyment of all his mental
faculties, every thing was present to his memory ;
the most trivial circumstances ; even conversations
which he had held many years previously, and he
made use of them with extraordinary energy in
his exhortations. On his mother's account only
did he show the least inquietude : old, feeble, and
devoted to him, she could not restrain her tears.
Before her, he assumed a firmness which amount-
ed even to reproach ; then, when she left him, no
longer able to refrain from weeping himself, his
eyes followed her with tenderness, and he would
exclaim * my poor mother ! '
.1

HIS LAST DAYS. 307

" He made presents to his friends, and set apart
some religious books for many persons to whom
he still hoped to be usefid ; after having underlined
several passages, he thus wrote the address : —
Felix Neff, dying, to

" We shall have an indelible recollection of the
last letter that he wrote ; it was a few days before
his death. He was supported by two persons, and,
hardly able to see, he traced at intervals, and in
large and irregular characters which filled a page,
the lines which follow, addressed to some of his
beloved friends in the Alps. What must have
been the feelings of those who received them, with
the persuasion that he, who had traced them, was
no more !

" ' Adieu, dear friend, Andre Blanc, Antoine
Blanc, all my friends the Pelissiers, wdiom 1 love
tenderly ; Francis Dumont and his wife ; Isaac
and his wife ; beloved Deslois, Emilie Bonnet,
&c. &c. ; Alexandrine and her mother ; all, all
the brethren and sisters of Mens, adieu, adieu. I
ascend to our Father in entire peace ! Victory !
victory ! victory ! through Jesus Clirist.

Felix Nkif.'

" The last niglil ol" lii> lift', we and sonic othrr
persons remained to sit up with liini. Never shall
we forget those hours of ano:uisli, so well called
thf valley of tlif shadow (»f death. It wa«* neces-

X C'

308 HIS DEATH.

sary to attend to him constantly, and to hold him
in his convulsive struggles ; to support his fainting
head in our arms, to wipe the cold drops from his
forehead, to hend or to straighten his stiffened
limbs ; the centre of his body only retained any
warmth. For a short time he seemed to be chok-
ing, and we dare not give him any thing : a few
words of Scripture were read to him, but he did
not appear to hear ; once only, when some one
was lamenting to see him suffer so much, and said,
* poor Neff*,' he raised his head for an instant,
fixed his large eyes full of affection upon his friend,
and again closed them. During the long night of
agony we could only pray and support him. In
the morning, the fresh air having a little revived
him, he made a sign that he should be carried to
a higher bed ; they placed him on this bed in a
sitting posture, and the struggles of death began.
For four hours we saw his eyes raised to heaven ;
each breath that escaped from his panting bosom,
seemed accompanied with a prayer ; and at that
awful period, when the heaviness of death was
upon him, in the ardent expression of his sup-
plication he appeared more animated than any
of us. We stood around him weeping, and almost
murmuring at the duration of his sufferings, but the
power of his faith was so visible in his countenance,
that our faith too was restored by it, it seemed as
though we could see his soul hovering on his lips,
impatient for eternity. At last we so well under-

HIS DEATH. 30y

stood what his vehement desire was, that with one
impulse we all exclaimed : Come, Lord Jesus,
come quickly.

" Two days afterwards, (his death took place
12th of April, 1829,) we accompanied his remains
to the tomb. Over his resting-place were read some
beautiful verses of that Word which shall never
pass away. We then prayed, and in compliance
witli his wish, his numerous friends, who were
assembled at the grave, sang together those lines
of M. Vinet, of which the stanzas conclude thus : —

" lis lie soiit pas perdus, ils nous out devances, "

CHAPTER Xll.

licvicw of Ncjj^^s character — lis value as an example — His
practical wisdom and usefulness — ///"* prudence and caution
— His gentleness of spirit — His conciliating manners — Two
remarlcahle traits — Ncff compared with Bernard Gilpin,
George Herbert, Oberlin, and Henry Martyn — Testimonies
to Neff's services.

When I determined to publish the preceding
memoir, I had two objects in view ; first, to make
known the existence of another mountain church '

' The existence of brandies of the Christian Church, not sects,
to which, and through which apostolical Christianity has been
transmitted from age to age, without any admixture of Romish
error, is a truth in history, which must be agitated, until more
justice shall be done to the question by ecclesiastical writers.
The author of a " History of the Church," published under the
superintendence of the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Know-
ledge," the best Church history which has yet appeared, will, I
am sure, receive this hint with the same spirit of candour and
inquiry which he has displayed throughout the whole of his
work. In chapter xviii. pp. 353-355, has he not misapplied the
terms, heresy, heretics, and sect, in application to the Waldenses
of Piemont, for example ? !My object, of wliich he has kindly
made honourable mention, was not to prove the apostolical
descent of the Vaudois, for this would be a vain attempt, but to
prove their apostolical Christianity, from time immemorial, and
their independence of Rome, at periods when the Church of
Rome pretends that all who professed to be Christians were

REVIEW OF NEFF's CHARACTER. 311

iu the Alps, besides that of the Waldenses of
Piemont, which has continued independent of
Rome, and ft'ee from its corruptions, ever since it
was first planted ; and secondly, to hold up the
example of a village pastor, who in our own times
has displayed " the zeal of an apostle, and the
constancy of a martyr."'

Whoever has a station in the Christian Church
to fill, and appointed duties to discharge, may find
something in Neff's character, which is worthy of
imitation, and those, whose place it is to receive
with meekness the engrafted word, may learn to
estimate its importance, from the earnestness with
which that devoted servant of God delivered it.

The striking peculiarity in Neft's character,
which I will now endeavour to draw out into its
full breadth, was his practical wisdom and use-
fulness as a Christian minister. No man ever
preached, or insisted upon the main and essential
doctrinal points of the Gospel more strongly than
he did ; these were put prominently forward in all
his sermons, in his conversations, in his corres-
pondence, and in his private diaries, but at the
same time he exacted attention to the ordinary

either in communion with her, or were heretics. Now if I have
proved this their jjerpetual aj)ostolieal ('hristianity, how eould the
Vaudois be herilics, when i\u-\ were |)rore.ssinf; the true faith (
and why call them a Sfct, when tliey wire always a hraiich of
the vine, abiding' in the vine, and never cut themselves oJl' frnm
any community, of whieh fhey were on<e a |)art f

2\2 REVIEW or neff's character.

ilutics of life, witli all the streiiuousness of one
who would admit of no compromise. It was his
anxiety to build up the Christian on a foundation,
where self-dependence, vain-glory, and imaginary
merit, were to have no place whatever ; and yet
every act of his ministry proved that he set a just
value on knowledge and attainments. It was his
labour of love to show, that whenever any addition
is made to our stock of knowledge, we not only
gain something- in the way of enjoyment, but are
laving lip a store for the improvement of our
moral and religious feelings, and of our general
habits of industry. The spiritual advancement of
his flock was the great end and object of all his
toils ; but no man ever took a warmer interest in
the temporal comforts of those about him, and this
he evinced bv instructing them in the manage-
ment of their fields and gardens, in the construc-
tion of their cottages, and in employing all his
own acquirements in philosophy and science for
the amelioration of their condition. He was not
only the apostle, but as somebody said of Oberlin,
" he was also the Triptolemus" of the High Alps.
To discharge the proper duties of a preacher of
the Gospel, was a vehement desire with NefF,
strong as a passion : his heart and soul were in
them ; yet he often left this walk, so glorious in
his eyes, to follow another track, and to point out
those things to the notice of his people, which re-
lated to their worldly conveniences. It was his

HIS PRUDENCE AND CAUTION. 313

high and lofty ambition to elevate their thouglits
and hopes to the noblest objects to which immor-
tal beings can aspire, and to raise the standard,
until they should reach to the fulness of the
stature of Christ : and yet he so condescended to
things of low estate, as to become a teacher of
a, b, c, not only to ignorant infancy, but to the
dull and unpliant capacities of adults. Begin-
ning witli the most tiresome rudiments, he pro-
ceeded upwards, leading on his scholars me-
thodically, kindly, and patiently, until he had
made them proficients in reading, writing, and
arithmetic, and could lead them into the plea-
santer paths of music, geography, liistory, and
astronomy. His mind was too enlarged to fear
that he should be teaching his peasant boys too
nmch. It was his aim to show what a variety of
enjoyments may be extracted out of knowledge,
and that even the shepherd and the goatherd of
the mountain side, will be all the happier and the
better for every piece of solid information that be
can acquire.

Xeff was a niau of tlie most ardent and
ehistic zeal, else he never could have dedicated
Iiiniself so entirely to the work of a missionarv
pastor ill a foreign countrv : yet lie Iinm^lii ilu;
good sense of a masculine iiii(lfi>taii(liiiL:- to hear
upon all his rehgious j)rojects : lie exercised a de-
gree of pnnh-ncc! seldom witnessed in conjunction
with such anh)iir, and he was constantlv <"liecking
the ebullitions of his >pirit, and tempering iiis

314 REVIEW OF NEFl-S CllAHACTEU.

zeal with salutary prudence. The nicest discre-
tion, and the most judicious caution, distinguished
his proceedings. This was especially manifested
in the selection and training of his catechists.
He knew that a few young men, well prepared,
would do more good among their, countrymen
than a host of undisciplined enthusiasts and ill-
taufjht novices.

The broad distinctions and uncompromising
truths of Protestantism were matters of awful
sanctity with Neff ; and yet, though he was the pas-
tor of a flock opposed to Popery b}' all the strong
prejudices of hereditary separation, I might almost
say of deep-rooted aversion, yet with dogmatical
and polemical Protestantism he would have no-
thing to do. He made numberless converts from
Romanism, not so much by argument and dis-
cussion, as by mildly inculcating the true spirit of
the Gospel ; not by dwelling on topics of strife,
and on points of diff'erence, but on points of uni-
versal agreement, and by exhibiting our common
Christianity in its most persuasive form, until
their hearts melted before the one Mediator and
Intercessor, and they said, your God shall be our
God, and your creed shall be our creed.

He was rigid in his notions of Christian de-
portment ; yet there was a meekness, and a
kindness of manner about him, which conciliated
all, and convinced them that he had their best
interests at heart ; so much so, that perhaps no
man was ever more reverenced and loved. When

THE VALUE OF HIS EXAMPLE. 315

1 traversed the villao:es and hamlets which had
coustitLited his charge, two years after his removal
from them, the recollection of his services was
still cherished with so much fondness and vene-
ration, that his name was never pronounced but
with a seriousness and tenderness of voice, which
assured me, that he still lived in their affections,
and that he will form the subject of discourse and
admiration, as long as one of the present race
shall survive.

Such was the pastor of the Alps in his exten-
sive parish, consisting of scattered and remote
hamlets. Now, if Neff, — his ministeried duties
spreading over such length and breadth ; the
boundary lines of his charge stretching far and
wide over mountains, and barriers of ice and
snow, and across rapid rivers and deep ravines, and
having to encounter all the difficulties of distance,
climate, unknown language, and those other im-
pediments usually thrown in the way of a foreigner,
— if he could yet propose to himself, and could
effect such improvements as were the objects of
his ministry, may not the clergy of our own
Church look upon their field of labour with hope
and courage. W itli tlie same ])romise of su])j)ort
from above : witli |)arish('s for llic mo^f j»;irf ot"
moderate extent, with all tlic adv aiita;i,('s of cu-
(hnviiicnt ' : with f'acililics derived iVoiii scliolastic

' The tendency of cndowmcntH has often been iliscuHsotl.
Sonic an- inrlincfl to think that thev aro not hrncficial to th«'

316 TWO REMARKABLK TRAITS.

establislinients of old standing — from institutions,
wliere teachers are trained to their profession, —
from societies which supply cheap and useful
books : with the aid of an authorized version of
Scripture, where every copy that is used is the
same, word for word, (an advantage this, which
is unknown upon the continent,) and with innu-
merable other resources, what may not yet be
done to extend our usefulness, and to grow in
favour with God and man, if we will but diligently

cause of religion, and it has been argued, that a minister of the
■word may be safely left to the generosity of his flock, that a
congregation will never suffer an active and pious clergyman to
be insufficiently provided for. The name of Oberlin is now
proverbial, and synon}TTious for that of an eminent and merito-
rious pastor. At the revolution, Oberlin, like the rest of the
established clergy of France, was deprived of his scanty income.
This was in 1789. At first liis parishioners came forward with
generous alacrity, and declared that their excellent minister
should be none the worse — that they would raise 1400 francs,
or about 56/. a year for him at the least. The first year they
subscribed a purse of 1133 francs : the second year their libera-
lity fell down to 400 francs (16/.) The pastor saw how things
were going on, and requested that there might be no more annual
collections for him : he w-as unwilling to appear to be drawing
from the poor or the reluctant ; he would leave it entirely to
their free will, and imsolicited offerings : they knew the way to
his house, he said, and might bring to him what and when they
pleased. In 1 794, few as were Oberlin's wants, his own resources
and his parishioners' bounty had so far failed him, that he was
obliged to undertake the charge of ten or twelve pupils for his
sxibsistence.

TWO REMARKABLE TRAITS. 317

and tliankl'ully employ all the means with which
we are so abundantly supplied !

It has been stated by one of Xeff"s most inti-
mate friends, that there were two traits in his
character, which are seldom found in one pos-
sessed of such powers of mind as himself, and
whose whole life, from the period of his maturity,
had been a career of activity and usefulness.
The first, that he was entirely free from any am-
bitious views, he had no desire to be the first,
that thorn in the side of the Christian Church ;
and though his labours had in reality been more
abundant than those of most of his brethren, yet
he never undervalued the performances of others,
and it never seemed to be a feeling in his own
mind, that he had " laboured more abundantly
than they all." The second was, such extreme
humility, that he even regarded his own energy
and activity, as something that partook of the
nature of sin ; as being an obstacle in the wav of
his more frequent communion with (iod; as dis-
tracting his thoughts from himself, and those
secret contemplations which are needful for the
individual. He was fully sensible that an active
spirit, and an affectionate concern for tin- tem-
pore] and spiritual coucci'm orollicrs, ai-c (pialities
excellent in themselves, and iudispcu'^ablc for flu'
good of tlic Cliristian conimonwcaitli, au<l tor the
extension oj' (hrist's kiu«xdon) ; but in lii- own
case, lie was afraid that tins abxulnd ntlnr

'M^ NEFF COMPARED

qualities. He knew that it was not the establish-
ment of schools, the conducting of missions, or
the preaching to others, which of themselves con-
stituted the life of the soul : on the contrary, that
the strenuous pursuit of great usefulness often
becomes a snare and a pitfall, and a covering
under which pride lurks : and he felt, with the
apostle, the necessity of bringing himself under
subjection, lest, when he had preached to others,
he himself might become a castaway. It was
under the influence of this feeling, that he was
inclined to set small value upon his own labours.
From his very youth he seems to have had
continual conflicts with himself: the life of the
chamois hunter would have been most in accord-
ance with the natural flight of his spirits, and his
ardent attachment to mountain pursuits : but he
controlled his wishes, when he was first of an age
to seek employment, and he submitted to the con-
finement, and to the dull sameness of a nursery
garden. Afterwards, when circumstances placed
him in the army, and a path was opened to him
that was leading rapidly to military reputation, and
to the indulgence of some of his early schemes, he
turned aside from the tempting prospect, and
determined not to know any thing save Jesus
Christ, and him crucified. " His temper," said
another of his friends, after his death, " natu-
rally violent and unbending, was completely sub-
dued."

WITH BERNARD GILPIN. 319

It is not venturing too mucli to say, tliat Neft's
character will bear comparison with four of the
most distinguished ornaments in his own profes-
sion : with Bernard Gilpin, George Herbert,
Frederick Oberlin, and Henry Martyn.

His sphere of action was not, indeed, so concen-
trated as that of the three first ; and we have not
the parsonage tales and anecdotes to adorn the
page of his history, which grace the biography
of the pastors of Houghton, Bemerton, and Wald-
bach : — nor was it so extensive as that of the mis-
sionary Martyn ; it partook, however, of tlie fixed
charge of the three first, and of the difHculties of
the last.

In the Memoirs of Gilpin, there are several par-
ticulars to which passages in Neff 's life bear re-
semblance. Gilpin's parish, Houghton, contained
no less than fourteen villages, and had been much
neglected before his arrival. Nefl:''s contained as
many, or more, and its religion was little more
than traditionary. The people of Houghton had
been so Ions: excluded from all means of infor-
mation, that king Edward's proclamation, for a
change in the religious services of the country,
had not even been heard of at the time of that
prince's death. So, in j)arts of \';il (^iieyras, the
edict of toleration of l.ouis XVI. was ii(»t known
till four years after its jiiiblication. (Jil|)in s admo-
nitions and exanij)le were so impn'ssive, and were
so well received, that in a few years a most extraor-

320 COMPARKD WITH BERNARD GILPIN.

diiiary change was observed in the whole neigh-
bourhood of his church : and so among Neff's flock.
Gilpin thought that kindness and moderation, on
his part, would produce more conversions than
the strife of controversy : and it appears from the
accounts of his intercourse with non-conformists,
how much he was opposed to all intolerant prin-
ciples, and how wrong he thought it, on the one
hand to assail an established Church with violent
hands, and on the other to molest and vex a quiet
separatist. Neff's letter ^ on establishments and
separation, and the whole page of his ministerial
history, will show that they were kindred spirits.

The following extract from tlie Life of Gilpin,
compared with De Thou's^ account of Val Fressi-
niere in his time, and with Neff's description of
the poverty and ignorance of his Alpines, of his
" obtruding Christianity on the notice of the peo-
ple," by following them to their habitations, when
the winter season confined them within doors;
and to the fairs, and places of resort, when they
were likely to be found there ; and of preaching
to them in any place most convenient for his pur-
pose : — this will extend the parallel. In fact,
there is ever the closest resemblance between the
means, whicli all wise, and pious, and active-
minded pastors employ, under similar circum-
stances."

' Seep. 51. =* See p. 16.

COMPARED WITH BERNARD GILPIN. 321

" Gilpin used fi'equently to visit the most neg-
lected parts. In each place he staved two or three
days : and his method was to call the people about
him, and lay before them, in as plain a way as pos-
sible, the danger of leading wicked, or even care-
less lives : explaining to them the nature of true
religion, instructing them in the duties they owed
to God, their neighbour, and themselves, and
showing how greatly a moral and religious con-
duct would contribute to their present as well as
future happiness. There is a tract of country upon
the borders of Northumberland, called Redesdale
and Tynedale, of all barbarous places in the north,
at that time, the most barbarous. In this dreadful
country, where no man would ever travel that
could help it, Mr. Gilpin ' never failed to spend
some part of every year. He generally chose the
Christmas holidays for this journey, because he
found the people at that season most disengaged,
and most easily assembled. He had set places for
preaching, which were as regularly attended as
the assize towns on a circuit. If he came where
there was a church, he made use of it : if not, he
made use of barns, or any other large building,
where great crowds of people were sure to at (end
him, some for his instruction, and others for his
charity. 'I'Iji- was a very diHiciih and laborious

' Owing U) the dearth of" fit and able nitn in those times,
personn of Mr. Gilpin's character and UiU-nts, Imd licenci-s to
preach in diffcrpnt parts of thp diorosp, nut of their own parishfR.

Y

322 COMPARED WITH GEORGE HERBERT,

emj)lovinent. The country was so poor, that what
provision he conld get extreme hunger only-
made palatable. Tlie badness of the weather, and
the badness of the roads, through a mountainous
country, and at that season covered with snow,
exposed him often to great hardships. All this
he cheerfiilly underwent, esteeming such suffer-
ings well compensated by the advantages, which
he hoped might accrue from them to his unin-
structed fellow-creatures ^"

The resemblance between George Herbert and
NefF will be seen at once by comparing the minis-
try of the latter with Herbert's description, and his
own exemplification of the '' Country Parson :"
in his performance of the great and neglected duty
of catechising, in the true sense of the word ; in
his display of all the sympathies and affections of
a pastor, and in the corresponding reverence of his
parishioners, who would leave their ploughs when
his church bell rang for morning prayers, to attend
the summons ; m his extraordinary love of sacred
music, and persuasion that the introduction of it
at hours of devotion is a strong help to piety ;
and lastly, in the briefness of his career, which
was shortened by his ministerial labours. Her-
bert's and Neffs bed of sickness was to each a
school of discipline, for which they were thankful
and rejoiced. " I do not repine," said Herbert,

' Gilpin's Life of Bernard Gilpin.

OBERLIN, AND HENRY MARTYN. 323

" but am pleased with my waut of liealth ; my
heart is now fixed on that place, where true joy is
only to be found. I praise God I am prepared to
make my bed in the dark : I praise him, that I
have practised mortification, and have endea-
voured to die daily, that I may not die eternally."
We have seen what Neff's dying- bed was.

Nefi" professed to make Oberlin his pattern, and
the parallel between the two appears — in their
charge of mountain parishes of wide extent, and
in the prudent manner in which each devoted
himself to the improvement of a half civilized and
indigent population. So much has been said on
this subject in the course of the present work, that
it need not be further enlarged on.

With equal justice may Neff, in his character of
a missionary, be likened unto the devoted and self-
denving' Henry Martyn. Like him, he left his
home for a distant country, when he was yet in his
youth, and when his heart was still fondly clinging
to objects of affection in liis own di-ar laud. W ith-
otit any object of aiiiliition, curiosity, or avarice,
lie took up his pilgrims staff, and went fortli among
a strange j)eople, wliose lial)its and language were
n('W to liim ; and laying all that he had,— his time,
his abilities, liis knowledge, — and all iliai Ik- was,
(III tlir altar <»l" his Uedccmer, he cMCdiiiih rrd (\i--
privatioii> and hardships of every kind, lor u race
who had nootlicr <-laini upon liini, than that they
were of the human s|M'ci('s, an<l «»1" tin- I'lotcstanl

3'24 TESTIMONIKS TO NEFFS SERVICES.

faith. " With the Gospel in his hand, and the
Saviour in his heart," he went his way, hraving
the rage of climates, and submitting* to the
drudgery of learning an unknown tongue, and to
the disagreeable necessity of seeking society which
was oftentimes offensive to him, and of enduring
all things, and becoming all things, in the patient
hope of being the means of saving some. But as
it was with Martyn, so with Neflf, when he was
once embarked in the cause to which he had con-
secrated himself, nothing then moved or disgusted
him, but every living creature, in whom he took
an interest, was soon entwined around his affec-
tionate heart. There are many things in the sort
of life which a missionary pastor must lead, which
are so revolting to the natural man, that no feel-
ino^s of mere kindness or benevolence can enable
him to endure them. It is the power of the
Gospel working in his heart, which can alone
sustain the Christian under them.

The following testimonies to the conduct, and
services of the estimable subject of this memoir,
will close this review of his character. They are
taken from the Reports of the Continental Society,
whose agent he was for many years. Without
professing to approve of all the measures of this
association, or to subscribe to all the sentiments'

' Is it wise, is it just, to make such sweeping charges as the
following? — the first is contained in one of the Reports of the

TESTIMONIES TO NEFFS SERVICES. 325

advanced in their printed statements, I cannot
forbear taking this opportunity of observing, that
the thanks of every true Christian are due to a
Society, which brought forward and fostered such
a man as Felix NefF, which furnished him with
the pecuniary means of discharging the duties
of an authorised pastor of the established Protest-
ant Church of France, when the regular stipend
was withheld for want of letters of naturalization,

Society, and the second in a speech delivered at the Society's
general meeting, and published in one of its annual state-
ments :

" And it is of the utmost importance that all persons, who
desire that the preaching of the Gospel may be heard on the
Continent, should bear continually in mind, that there the word
* Protestant' means nothing but a person who does not go
tlirough the ceremonies jorescribed by the Church of Rome, and
who has, together with the superstitions, for the most part, re-
nounced also every fundamental of Christianity "

" "We have also heard to-day, what Continentjil Protestantism
is. And if I were to state what, in my opinion, it is, from my
own examination, I would say, it is composed half of the Deist,
and half of the persecuting spirit of the Pajiist. In fact, the
very' spirit of persecution on the Continent is not only allowed,
but em Ultra frcd, by those very persons who call themselves Pro-
testants.' When we hear of Protestantism, we tliiiik it is some-
thing like our own Protestantism, which is the Protistautisni of
the Bible: but that is not the Protestantism of the Coiitiiifiit ;
the Protestantism of the Continent is a system, from whitli the
whole of true Christianity is excluded but the forms. In fact,
Sir, of the two, if I were to judge, I should say, 1 do liclicvc
that Popery in tlie best. Is not, then, the institution of such n
Society em this indinpenNably necessary ?"

3'J() TESTIMONIES TO NEFFS SERVICES.

which the government offices vexatiously delayed
to send liim, and which generously continued to
remit his salary to him, during his last illness, for
many months after he had ceased to be one of its
labourers. Something objectionable to our own
pre-conceived opinions of what is most expedient
may be found in every religious and benevolent
society, but we are not justified in seeking an ex-
cuse in this, for refusing our just praise to what
is truly good and beneficial.

" One of the agents of the Society, Mr. Neff,
labours as suffi*agan to a Protestant pastor, among
these mountainous districts, and visits different
places where the truth was formerly held so pure
amidst all the corruptions of the days of anti-christ-
ian tyranny, but where now little else than mere
nominal Christianity is to be found. With indefa-
tigable zeal he ascends the mountains, and de-
scends into the vallej^s, to preach, and catechize
the children of the inhabitants ; often meeting
with great opposition, and many difficulties arising
from their ignorance and prejudice against the
Gospel. He has been the instrument of a consi-
derable revival in some parts, and in one district,
more than two hundred children are under his
superintendence as catechumens, of whom he
speaks in the following terms : — ' I cannot too
earnestly recommend to your remembrance at the
throne of God, and of the Lamb, this numerous

TESTIMONIES TO NEFF's SERVICES. 327

family/ Probably, there is not on the whole Con-
tinent another flock of two hundred catechumens
under the care of the same pastor, instructed in
pure doctrine with so much simplicity, and solely
founded on the New Testament."

"Neff" is the spiritual father of these and also of
several others in the churches I afterwards visited.
He is particularly calculated for this parish, being-
capable of undergoing fatigue, indifferent about
the conveniences of life, full of zeal, preaching at
the end of a long day's march, in the mountains,
with unabated energy. The churches being sepa-
rated far from each other, in a difliicult and miser-
able country, only a person of such qualities could
discharge w4th efficiency the duty of a minister.
The inhabitants are a race of the most simple
habits, and until Neff" came amongst them, quite
ignorant. Dormilleuse, Minsas, and Violins, are
altogether Protestant ; the lower valleys contain
many Catholics. Dormilleuse is the highest of
all, and of difficult access ; the snow, 1 am told,
lies eight months on the ground, and they have
but a small tract of poor land to furnish their
subsistence ; this retreat lias been at all times
inaccessible to the superstition <•!' Huiiic, wlicthc r
acting by violence or j)ersuasion. The last allcm|»l
to convert them was of tin; latter nature ; a church
was ])uilt, and a cure sent to reside aiiiong the
simple inhabitant.-, but lie was not able to gain a

328 TESTIMONIES TO NEFF's SERVICES.

single proselyte. The committee will not rightly
appreciate the valuable services of NefF, without
taking into their view the revival that has taken

place in the parish of . Mr. , the

pastor, owes his own self, also, to NefF."

*' Before concluding, I have to mention to you
the existence of a few more Protestant communi-
ties, inhabiting the mountains of Haut Dauphine,
near Brian^on in France, and only separated by
a high Alp from the valleys of the Vaudois. I
was within a few hours' walk of them, and if the
passage had not still been blocked up by snow, I
should have gone thither. There is at present a
Mr. NefF amongst them, who does the duty alter-
nately at the six different churches. From all I
have heard of him, he seems to be pervaded by a
truly evangelical spirit, and has been the means
of producing a great awakening amongst the
people. I was confirmed in my opinion by the

account given of him by the venerable Mr. M ,

' Monsieur NefF, (he said,) etoit ici il n'y a pas
long temps, et il a preche dans mon Eglise. C'etoit
un discours excellent et d'accord avec I'evangile ;
bien calcule de faire une bonne impression. C'est
un veritable enfant de Dieu et qui fait beaucoup de
bien ; il ne craint ni de fatigues, ni de froid, ni de
privations d'aucune sorte. 11 a passe tout I'hiver
dans les montagnes, et on ne joue plus comme
auparavant, on ne danse plus les dimanches, les

TESTIMONIES TO NEFFS SERVICES. 329

gens semblent inspires par un esprit et iine zele
pour la religion, comme on ne se rapelled'aucune
autre epoque.' May his labours be crowned with
still more and more success, and may lie be the
blessed instrument of turning many, many more
from ' darkness unto light, and from the power of
Satan unto God." ''

Such were the testimonies rendered to the ser-
vices of Felix Neff, whilst he was yet alive, and
in the exercise of his ministry. Now that he is
gone to his rest, may this record of his Christian
Virtues have the effect of commending him, not
only to the esteem, but also to the imitation of
those to whom the memory of such men is dear.

P O S T S C R I P T.

Since the preceding- pag-es of this work wont to
press, I have been favovired with the foUowiug
communication from Captain Cotton, whose in-
teresting account of an excursion, in company with
the lamented subject of this Memoir, will he
received as a valuable addition to those remi-
niscences which I had previously collected.

** I spent several days with Neff in visiting tlie
scattered hamlets of which he had taken the spiri-
tual oversight, and I was thus afforded a good op-
portunity of observing the zeal of that excellent
man, his affection for the ol)jects of his care, his
singular fitness for ministering in a country of such
peculiar natural and moral features, and the re-
gard which his simple flock had for him. illlic
following transcripts from notes made at tlie time
will be of service to your work, you are welcome
to make whatever use of fluin vou think pn)i)cr.

''E. A.C."

*' At Pallon, at lln- entrance of the N'allcv of
Fressinien;, I met wiili Sr\]\ wlm. lull nl -|»irii> at

332 CAPTAIN cotton's account

my arrival, proposed climbing to the caverns that
had served the inhabitants, in former times, both
as places of refuge and of worship. Among others
visited by us under the guidance of a native, there
was one still called the Glcsia or Ecjlisc, whence
many a time the prayers of the people, obliged
to retire out of the reach of their oppressors,
went up to the throne of mercy; — it is now but a
small place, owing, it is said, to a slide of the
rock. The opening is on the crest of a frightful
precipice. The guide fearlessly entered it, though
the rugged rock afforded scarce a hand's breadth
to reach it by ; we squeezed through another
opening. I do not know that I ever felt the power
of association more strongly than when Neff and
another, who accompanied us, chaunted Te Deum
in that wild temple, the guide appearing the re-
presentative of the persecuted race. We entered
also another cavern, said to have been used for a
similar purpose, during the persecutions in the
reign of Louis XIV. The last we entered seemed
from below inaccessible. We gained it by the use
of hands as well as feet. On returning to Pallon
I offered our guide a franc, but instead of taking
it, he called Neff's attention to the circumstance,
who bade me put the money into my pocket, and
not teach the people bad habits. It was also
with difficulty that I forced some money on the
young man, who had been my guide from St.
Laurent du Cros, when he returned ; for three

OF AN r.xcriisroN with nkff. 333

days' labour, he felt himself repaid in the grati-
fication derived from the journey, and in helping-
forward my object. From Pallon we mounted to
La Ribe, the next village, where we were received
by M. Barridon, percepteur of impots in the dis-
trict.

" Neff held a reunion in his house in the course
of the evening : it is by means of meetings of this
kind principally that he effects the good he does in
the mountains. His congregations are so dispersed
that he is of necessity in continual motion from
one village to another. On arriving, perhaps after
a toilsome walk of several leao'ues over the moun-
tains, he calls the inhabitants together, and com-
mences his service improviso. Those who assem-
ble first, when in a private house or stable, where
the assembly usually takes place in the winter, pass
the time in singing hymns, the women spinning or
knitting, till he appears. It is a simple service
among simple people, several of whose hearts,
however, arc impressed with the Gospel. A table
is placed for the minister ; some forms or chairs
are brought for the rest, all sitting with a thick
carpet of manure under their feet ; one or two
lamps, susjjended by strings, throw their liglii on
the plain-featured, and plainly-attired grouj), and
show the' eatth' raii<j,'e(| at their iiiaii;^ri> hrhiiid.
Sometimes the li\inii«-, that the eongregafion are
singing at his entrance, l"urni>li a subject for .\eH"s
diseoursr, ^^funetinies he (■\|)oun(I'- a eha|)ler of

334 CAPTAIN cotton's account

the Bible, or preaches from a text: singing* and
extempore prayer preceding and concluding the
service ; at other times he questions his auditory
from a chapter, a mode of teaching well suited for
private assemblies. For a minister to be useful
among a population so situated as that of the high
Alps, it is necessary to have a heart overfloNving
with the Gospel, a lively solicitude for his people's
souls, and a mouth which never tires of those doc-
trines that convert, console, and edify, however
weary the body may be, and which, after the
service performed, still loves to dwell on the all-
important theme.

" 1st November. — Having slept and breakfasted
at Barridons, we went to Violins, a village situated
at the Combe : this word signifies, as in Devon-
shire, an abrupt narrow valley in the mountains.
Let the etymologist discover how the inhabitants
of Devon and Dauphiny came to possess the word
in common. Divine service was performed by NefF
in the new temple at Violins, after which we pro-
ceeded upwards to Minsals, another small village,
then enjoying during the day only half an hour's
sunshine, and about to lose the glorious luminary
till the month of March : during the intervening
cold months he never rises above the mountains
so high as to dart his rays down to the poor
cluster of cottages at Minsals. There is no comfort
in the houses ; they are vaulted, perhaps to resist
an extraordinarv accumulation of snow ; the walls,

OF AN EXCURSION WITH NEFF. 335

tlioiig:]i thick, are badly built, and within black with
soot, and a single small window sheds a partial lioht
into the gloomy apartment. We paid, notwith-
standing, a very interesting visit, in one of these
dark dwellings, to a family named Besson, nine
or ten in number ; all of them, I believe, are
blessed with the lio-ht of the Sun of Righteousness,
to cheer them in the absence of his type in the
firmament. The inhabitants in all the valleys in
this severe climate are accustomed to pass the
winter in the stable along with their cows, sleep-
ing in cribs erected for that purpose,

" After this we returned to La Clialpe,

where NefF presided at another meeting, previ-
ously to bidding adieu to our friends ; we then
descended the valley to Philippe, our friend at
Moulins : here again a meeting of the neigh-
bours was held in Philippe's stable; they were
mostly if not all Catholics. The example of the
miller's family has doubtless excited some of
these persons to think seriously about their
salvation, and the interesting nature of Neff's
meetings ; prayers whicli they can coniprcliciid,
and the mercies of (iod in Christ, jjlainly and
affectionately set before them, occasion those
wlio have heard once to desire to hear again, and
to bring others. The diflerent services of iliis
day, except a few prayers in tin* temple, were all
exteinjion-. W hi-thcr fired or not. Nell' i> at all
times ready l*> Ix'iin. fliinkin'^ lie iM'\er doe><

7

336 CAPTAIN cotton's account

enough. We passed the evening by Philippe's
fire-side, the women retiring behind to afford us
the best places, and after a cheerful meal we re-
tired for the night.

^' Early next morning we left our kind host's
cottage, who evinced considerable emotion at part-
ing. Returning to the point where we had left
the valley of Queyras, we ascended by Chateau
Queyras, which is a small fortress on a rock,
commanding the passage up and down the valley,
to Fousillarde, and were received with great joy
by a warm-hearted and zealous convert, named
Andre Vasserot, who was prepared to undertake
a school in the winter. It is one of Neff''s plans
of amelioration to form and place pious school-
masters in the villages, who may in some measure
supply the want of a minister, and especially im-
plant, betimes, religious principles in the minds
of the young. There was a lame youth so trained
whom I saw at La Chalpe. The villagers were
brought together for service in the temple, and
we then proceeded through the snow, crossing and
recrossing a wood of meleze, a species of fir, to
San Veran. A meeting was held here also, in a
stable belonging to Pierre Sybille, in whose house
we slept for the night, being at no great distance
from the top of the ridge separating France from
the valleys of Piemont. By daylight next morn-
ing, we were on our way back, through the snow,
to Guillestre, descending by the channel of the

OF AN EXCURSION WITH NEFF. 337

Guil to that town. After dining- there, I monnted
a wretched mule, and set off again for Fressiniere,
Neff still walkino'. It was dusk before we reached
Champcella, a village not far from Pallon. We
put up here with a family of the name of Arnaus,
who were, I believ^e, lately Roman Catholics, and
much opposed to Neff's proceedings, but now
greatly altered. Although Neff had been on foot
from daylight, except during the time of breakfast
and dinner, he called a meeting; tog-ether in a
neighbouring house, at which, notwithstanding
the lateness of the hour, a considerable number of
persons attended, and among them several Catho-
lics. To this hastily assembled crowd, he ad-
dressed the divine word, and then spent some
time with a sick person. Through the activity of
Neff, I was on the back of a mule on the way to
our friend Barridon's, at La Ribe, before daylight.
We walked from thence to Minsals, and visited
aofain the Christian familv of Besson in their
stable, where it was so dark that we could not see
all the inmates, till they came mar the small
window to show themselves. We mounted from
this place, in company with some others, to Dor-
milleuse, the highest of all the villai^es in Fres-
siniere. One would imagine that no motive, l»ut
tliat of jxTsonal security, could have led to tlu;
construction of u village in that |)Iac('. ( )m- side
of the valley, as we ascended, appeared iinj)raeti-
cable to the foot of man ; the iiu'lr/.e waves there

338 CAPTAIN cotton's account

on lofty ledges which seem inaccessible, yet the
chasseur climbs among* them, and the inhabitants
I believe, derive from thence a supply of fuel :
on the other side, between the mountain and the
stream, enormous fragments are piled together
or thrown about the small extent of flat ground
which is susceptible of cultivation ; farther on we
climbed b}- a tedious zig-zag path on the face of the
mountain, over ruins, that having been split off" by
the frost or rain, had rolled from above. The nature
of the slope was almost hid from the eye by a
deep layer of snow ; large icicles were hanging
from the cliff. As winter advances these increase
in size and form, as I was assured, to stupendous
columns, far more wonderful than the porticos
effected by human labour, which are intended to
occupy the public eye from age to age, whereas
those of the Almighty are renewed and dissolved
year after year.

" After a very toilsome walk we at length reached
the remote village of Dormilleuse, one of the least
and most retired of the many thousands of France,
but particularly distinguished by Him, who seeth
not as man seeth, in being- preserved inviolate
from the papal abomination. The houses are
ranged above each other on a steep hill; the in-
habitants are inoffensive and kind, and some of
them are pious characters. The snow lying deep,
several of the villagers were warming themselves
on the sunny side of their cottages as we ap-
1

OF AN EXCURSION WITH NEFF. 339

preached. The people were soon assembled in
the church for service, and here I observed the
women kneel in those parts of the service in which
the men stood. The church was built by govern-
ment previous to the revolution, with a parsonage-
house, and a cure was appointed for the village,
in hopes by mild measures to gain over the people
to the Roman religion ; but persuasion was as
ineffectual in this attempt as persecution in former
instances — the priest met with no success ; he
disappeared at the revolution, and has never been
replaced : the inhabitants have free possession
both of the church and of the house. Neff" uses
the latter as a school, having little need of a
house, as he is continually on a journey ; he has
here both a school for boys and for adults during
the winter ; there is also a Sunday-school and a
school for infants.

" A crowd of people came into the house where
we had taken up a place by the fire ; and Neff
asking me if I had the courage to pass over the
Col d'Orcieres to Saint Laurent du Cros, to avoid
making so great a circuit as we should do in orbing
by the vallev, the practicability of the measure
was debated, and the opinion of an experienced
cha.sseur takcai : his decision was that the passage
might be performed if the weather should be
clear and without wind. Tlic dan<:,('r from <l<)udv
weather is tin- probabilitv of <mow falling : lluit
from wind is grratcr, as it offm j-auscs so tliitk a

z2

340 CAl^TAIN cotton's ACCOUNT

cloud of snow as to hinder the traveller from see-
ing his way. A perfect knowledge of the moun-
tains is also requisite, as the drifted snow fre-
quently conceals the danger of the path by lying
lightly perhaps against a precipice ; and should
the unwary traveller set his foot upon it, the mass
is instantly set in motion, he is carried away with
it, and never rises again. We saw while ascend-
ing to Dormilleuse the effect of the wind, or, as
it is called in the Alps, the tourmente, on the
snowy summits of the mountains, they seemed to
smoke like so many volcanoes. We intended by
the laborious journey of the following day to save
time, but we were as long in performing it as we
should have been in going round about. I supped
this evening on a marmot, and found it by no
means bad fare ; it is a rich food, more like pork
than any thing else.

' ' The morning following proving clear and free
from wind, we prepared for the fatigues of the
day by a good breakfast ; my thick and heavy
nailed shoes were covered with linen socks, and
a string passed across my gaiters and round ray
ancles, to prevent the snow from entering. The
mountaineers always take the precaution of secur-
ing their feet from the admission of snow in a
similar way. I was furnished like the rest with
a staff, and we set out, eleven in number,
the peasants having the laborious task of tracing
the wav for us. The first of the party had a

OF AN KXCLRSION WITH NEFF. 341

very laborious task, appearing sometimes to be
breast high, and it was necessary for the others
successively to take the lead : in this manner we
passed over the dreary white and trackless waste,
crossing several considerable eminences, though
we were in a valley, compared with the ridges on
each side. It might seem impossible for any
livino; beino-s to make this tlieir natural abode,
yet the wild is not left untenanted : the wolf and
the bear are natives of the Alps, but require more
shelter than is to be found in the tract we were
passing over ; the lynx is sometimes, but rarely, to
be found ; the marmot keeps himself as warm as
he can in the earth ; the chamois ranges over
the loftiest summits at perfect liberty — we saw a
flock of them on the mountain to our right, far out
of the reach of man. I was exceedingly fatigued
and vexed to be continually sinking when the
others trod firm. There is an art in foUowin"- the
leader's track ; great care must be taken to place
the foot in the trace of him that goes before, and
to follow with the same foot. At length the Col
appeared before us. We had hoped to reach it
before it would be necessary to take refreshment,
but our progress was so slow and our whole Jiurty
80 exliausted, as to render a meal necessary ; it
being impossible to sit, we trod down the snow,
and ate our bread and clicc-c and drank <»nr wint^
standing, aitrr which \\v. start(Ml again. ISff!
sometimes to(jk tin; phice of leachr, and in the
most laborious part of the journey roused tlie

34*2 CAPTAIN COTTONS ACCOUNT, &C.

spirits of the people by chanting hymns. At last
the height was won, but not till two or three in
the afternoon, A new waste of snow presented
itself on the other side, but the labour of descend-
ing was comparatively trifling ; having rested a
short time, Neff, myself, and three mountaineers,
on their way to Mens also, proceeded downwards
from the Col. The kind people watched from
the top till we were out of sight, being anxious
about me, whom they saw to be an inexpert moun-
taineer and quite tired. Instead of being in a
valley as before, we passed over a country of an
undulating surface, and descended very rapidly.
Proceeding more by the general bearings of the
country than by any landmarks, we descended
several precipices, where I should never have
hazarded myself alone, even had there been no
snow. Some small lakes lie between the hills,
probably furnishing the sources of the Drac which
orioinatcs hereabouts. Some notion of the height
at which we were, may be formed from the cir-
cumstance of one of these lakes having been
passed incautiously in the month of July by a
man, who did not know he had been on the ice
till he had crossed it ; we came afterwards among
stone fences of fields under the snow, and a little
lower down to a village, and shortly after reached
the inn at Orcieres."

THE END. -

Gilbert & Rivinoton, Printers, St. John's Square.